Planning a "mayor" tune-up

[titodj]

I got me a 2005, 3.0i with 110k

I can see that the oil filter housing gasket is leaking, and the oil has "dripped" on top of the alternator, so it looks covered by oil.


The plan is to replace the gasket, but at the same time I'm planning to:

1- Pressure clean the injectors
2- Replace spark plugs
3- Replace valve cover gasket
4- Replace belts and tensioneers
5- Replace the upper oxygen sensors
6- Any vacuum line that looks damaged

(*** New additions as per suggestions. )

7- CCV and Vanos oil line and gaskets
8- Oil pressure switch
9- Water pump and thermostat
10- Coolant expansion tank and thermostat
11- Manifold gasket
12- Disa valve upgrade kit (I was clueless about this potential problem)


Should I replace the water pump and thermostat too?
How can I clean the alternator without damage it?
What else should I address while I have everything apart?

Thank you for your Ideas and comments !

[crystalworks]

If the history of the truck is unknown. Yes, replace the water pump and thermostat. As well as the coolant expansion tank. You can go nuts with this sort of thing (I tend to) and also do CCV setup as all of those things typically fail @ 100,000 to 130,000 miles. There is also a whole host of cooling hoses and plastic pieces that start to get brittle.



If this is a secondary vehicle then you can do everything mentioned as it fails. If you depend on the truck... I'd do it all at once so as to not have to worry about it.

[white46]

With OFH out, it opens so much room for CCV. I would do that as well.

[oldskewel]

Good time to clean out or replace the Power Steering Fluid reservoir. The cap in those has a seal (o-ring, I think) that fails to seal after a while, so replacing that too might help.

In general, it would not be surprising if you fix the major OFHG leak you've got, and that allows you to see the other smaller ones.

Don't underestimate the skill, tools, and effort required the first time you remove the fan nut. After you've done it once, you'll know it will be 5x easier the next time.

[titodj]

Thank you all !
I will definitely tackle the CCV too, and I think without the manifold, will have more room for the OFHG...

I should probably order a new manifold gasket too.

[titodj]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Yes, replace the water pump and thermostat. As well as the coolant expansion tank. You can go nuts with this sort of thing

I'll do the pump and thermostat , but I have a question...

Is this the tank you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/Behr-Hella-Se...expansion+tank

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by titodj

I'll do the pump and thermostat , but I have a question...

Is this the tank you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/Behr-Hella-Se...expansion+tank

Yep, that's the tank. It has a habit of cracking around 100,000 miles. Mine did, as have countless others.

[andrewwynn]

The tank will come with an internal thermostat. I've read that replacing the thermostat can prevent the tank stuff destructing.

I have two 2001 3.0 gas. Acquired at 128 and 110 thousand miles.

I do few premptive repairs as we can steal a part from one when needed etc..

Parts i've repaired or replaced:

Intake boot
Disa valve
Thermostat
Expansion tank
Door handle carrier
Fuel pump
Fuel siphon jet (design flaw o-ring repair)
Hood secondary latch handle
Secondary air pump
Cam shaft position sensor
Alternator rebuild ($20 kit slip rings)
4 of 8 wheel bearings
Lower control arms
Front tension bushings
All eight brake rotors & pads
Rear brake lines (preventive care will prevent destruction)
Rear tail light design flaw repair
Dry lube window rail to prevent regulator self-destruction
Key cylinder refurbish
Replace all four mirrors with panoramic
Rear O2 sensors higher mileage car

I'm sure there are some things I'm missing. I'll update this post if I think of them.

Amazingly by doing the labor myself we've been averaging $80/mo on the lower mileage car and an astounding $40/mo on the higher mileage car. (110 > 152,000 vs 128 > 162,000) over three years of ownership.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Amazingly by doing the labor myself we've been averaging $80/mo on the lower mileage car and an astounding $40/mo on the higher mileage car. (110 > 152,000 vs 128 > 162,000) over three years of ownership.

And this is why I love BMW's. They aren't for everyone, but for those that are a little mechanically inclined you get a great vehicle(s) with a low investment. Certainly less than a new car, let alone a new BMW. Sure, some big-ticket items will come up during ownership... but averaged out as a monthly payment it's still very minimal.

[bcredliner]

I think both, if it ain't broke don't fix it and if it ain't broke it will soon, apply depending on what you tackle. As an example if there is no intake leak I would use don't fix it. Reason is that sometimes one makes a mistake in the fix or breaks something else in the process that is costly repair or extends downtime significantly.

Before tearing anything down--- I would do a smoke test, pressurized cooing system test, compression and leakdown test. I would also clean the engine and verify the source of the oil leak(s). I would pull the oil pan and check to see if there is anything there that shouldn't be. I would certainly check for trouble codes. I would check for brake fluid leaks and see if air conditioning was at the right temp at all vents. The reason is that you may find other problems that are more critical and costly to the point that a prioritized budget is in order. If budget becomes a concern focus on the parts that you would have to do the same big teardown to get to if/when they die. If you don't have the maintenance and repair history I would take a shot at trying to dig it up as you could be do PM on something that has already been done.

In most cases it is best to use OE or OEM parts. In some cases there are upgrades from original suppliers or aftermarket sources that are better. None that I know of come from China.

Some of the preventative maintenance suggested doesn't necessarily fail at miles mentioned. Where your X5 has lived has a lot to do with when parts like the expansion tank, plastic parts getting brittle and coolant hoses fail. For instance, my current BMWs have been in Texas all of their lives so while it gets hot it seldom gets below freezing. The preventative maintenance I did when I lived in Michigan was 20-40,000 miles sooner than here in Texas.

I don't replace things like O2 sensors, rebuild the alternator, replace the power steering reservoir unless there is a problem. Way too much variance as to when failure can occur. Might be 75,000 miles might be twice that and the vast majority of time there are obvious symptoms beforehand.

I would start using fuel with Techron or use a bottle per tank rather than pressure cleaning, unless it is clear you have an injector issue. `

There is always risk cleaning an alternator but I have never ruined an alternator by doing so. I have used Gunk engine cleaner. Currently I use Simple Green. Good practice to disconnect the battery but I don't. I just spray it liberally and hose it off. Sometimes I do it twice depending on how bad it looks. I always wait until I think everything is totally dry and march on. I would do it before any teardown so I could run the engine and see if it was damaged.

Threads like these usually end up with posts that at least indirectly implying one has made a terrible decision or if one makes a list of everything suggested they go into a terminal case of buyer's remorse. Keep in mind that all input is anecdotal, void of the associated circumstances, that human nature tends to better at worst case scenarios and we seldom hear from those that have parts that have not failed failed or failed well after the mileage that is usually mentioned in these threads.