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  #11  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.8isX5 View Post
Thanks bcredliner, im aware of changing camber/toe etc has different effects, with any car i usually drive i much prefer oversteer versus the understeer plow you get with the X, especially if you get on it hard in the turn literally feel the front lift up lol.

I guess im going to wait till i get new tires mounted, but ive also read people had problem with dealers taking the toe out and wont adjust it "out of bmw spec"
I hate it when I can't get the backend to hang out. I have never tried to go outside specs but I always go to the spec that contributes most to the handling I prefer, which always includes lots of negative camber. I have never needed to push to the point I find out which happens but if I did I would adjust until I had oversteer.
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:12 PM
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Dealers won't adjust outside BMW spec, but indy shops will, they just need to know the spec you want.

Mine was adjusted to spec on a hawkeye, when the shop notified me they could not get the rear right camber low enough to be within spec, I told them that's fine, get it as low as you can go and then zero out the toe in the rear so I can have less wear on the insides of the rear tires.

They knew exactly what I talked about and gave me a printout when they were done. That's why I ended up at the indy shop because I had a feeling if I went to BMW, they were going to charge me for an alignment that is done incorrectly because of a worn suspension part in the rear, then try to make me "not pay twice" for the alignment by charging me ridiculous pricing to get worn parts repaired at the dealer on the spot.

My alignment story at this local indy tire shop actually spans 2 occasions. The first time I went there, they stopped and couldn't align the car because the tie rod adjusters in the front were seized, obviously wanted to know if I wanted them to fix it for $400 bucks on the spot. I said no, I'll go home and replace them myself ($140 for both sides, free labor), and bring the X back. So I was only charged 15 bucks for an "alignment check" that day, and 2 weeks later when I brought it back I paid my normal alignment fee ($115).

Independent shops tend to be a little more flexible with stuff like that I've learned.
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:15 PM
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If the shop is hesitant to take the X, why bother even *insisting on it*. Not sure how much a alignment runs in your neck of the woods, but a alignment runs about $160+......and a decent tech will properly dial it in. Anyone can get it in the *green*.

My shop does preload the car, but bear in mind, that it's just a *alignment*. You can drive it off the rack, take it for a spin, throw her on the rack, and the readings WILL be different.

With that said, how about a hrs drive up to VAC ? Is that a option.
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:25 PM
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I have a shop by me i take all the other cars too, its a chain store, but they do it good, and will do what you ask, for example on my audi i had im adjust the rears to maximum camber i could, and config the toe with it, he did it no prob for me.

And all the other cars have been done there and were done right as well, which is why i was surprised when i called in and they said "we cant do it" even though i know they can cause other people got them done elsewhere then bmw dealer on the same machine.

Another reason i want to go there is because like $150 gets me 3 years worth of alignments whenever i need them no extra charge, and in 3 years i bet i will end up replacing certain suspension components.


jsoto - thanks for vac suggestion, they are in philly i believe? Do you know what they charge? Any warranty type thing like i have with the place above ^. ?
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  #15  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:29 PM
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Dealer alignment costs me $195. One time the service advisor came to me and told me they couldn't get it within specs and asked me if I wanted them to stop and pay for time spent or continue to get it as good as possible. They told me what they thought was wrong but did not refuse to finish the job. The time spent would have been $115.
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  #16  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:35 PM
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Don't know their rates or ~warranty~

For me, I get alignments on all the cars at least 1X a year. Maybe 2 if I have some extra play money. There are only 2 shops I would go to for a alignment. They all are about $160+ for a alignment but they spend a good 1.5-2hrs+ on average tweaking/dialing it in.

Any monkey can *get* it in the green. Doesn't necessarily mean it's dialed in....

I would rather pay $150 and get a great alignment than one that offers one with a 3 year warranty. Somethings got to give.......at the cost of labor. YMMV.

I can only suggest to deal with all worn suspension components before getting a alignment. Otherwise, you're just p1ssing money into the wind.
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  #17  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:39 PM
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As now now i have no signs of worn components, but im expecting it in 3 more years definitely, which is why i like that warranty thing.

And if you look at it, it is a "chain" store but they know most people will forget or not come back, and just use it to attract business.

Then the people like me who will use it and go back lol.
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  #18  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
Don't know their rates or ~warranty~

For me, I get alignments on all the cars at least 1X a year. Maybe 2 if I have some extra play money. There are only 2 shops I would go to for a alignment. They all are about $160+ for a alignment but they spend a good 1.5-2hrs+ on average tweaking/dialing it in.

Any monkey can *get* it in the green. Doesn't necessarily mean it's dialed in....

I would rather pay $150 and get a great alignment than one that offers one with a 3 year warranty. Somethings got to give.......at the cost of labor. YMMV.

I can only suggest to deal with all worn suspension components before getting a alignment. Otherwise, you're just p1ssing money into the wind.
What is your definition of "dialed in".
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  #19  
Old 10-29-2013, 02:48 PM
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Anyone wondering, just called vac

$160 no warranty etc.


Its in philly as well, about 70 miles for me, can get there 40 min or so but thats another $30 gas and 8 or so in tolls. so more like 200
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2013, 03:04 PM
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Count me in with you who have way more negative camber on the right rear - I think that makes four of us on this thread. Other than the fact you tend to make harder turns to the right instead of the left because your body can lean against the door, does anyone have any ideas as to why the right rear seems to be worse?

I've also noticed the right rear is typically the corner where the most squeaks are reported as well.

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