X-drive fluid change and front control arms DIY

[4.8isX5]

This weekend tackled my front control arms as the bushings were bad and drain/refilled the xdrive fluid.

Parts:

2 front arms - $82 shipped
1qt x-drive fluid - $47 dealer

X-drive fluid is real simple, get car up high on 4 jackstands so you have room, make sure its level in the air as this is to make sure you properly fill the fluid back in. Not level will cause either more or less fluid getting in then there should.

1st. Loosen fill plug first to make sure that comes off before you drain.

16mm bolt.

2. At least on 4.8is you need a flat wrench for the drain plug. Also 16mm but i couldnt find it, 5/8 is snug enough without worrying about messing the bolt up- these arent tightened to hard anyways.

Make sure you have a oil drain pan and a pump to pump fluid into the fill hole.

I recommend to change your fluids, small peice of mind for better performance of t-case and good fluid in there.

Mine is 06 at 77.5k and fluid was dark as charcoal.

Pump new fluid in till starts leaking out and tighten bolt. Done!

Says you need new copper sealing washers but you dont. I always just flip mine and you can use them 2 times easily. If im still driving it 150-160k when i do next xdrive change then i will change them, no need for it now.



Next was front control arms. Simple job but please get the tool im going to recommend to save yourself about 2 hours and make this a 25min job a wheel.

Jack car up remove wheel. Undo bottom nut of arm, 22mm socket.

Undo top bolt (where bushing is), nut side is 21mm, bolt head 22.

Now comes in the part, normally with this method i have gotten everything to slip off/come undone on all previous jobs. This sucker didnt budge.

Hammering/airhammering/torching/freeze off spray, pickle fork, etc. Nope not even a budge.


Tool you need is a ball joint seperator. $20 at harbor freight, grease the bolt threads for it to last.


Pretty obvious how to use it, will put pic of tool below. Thread nut in and put a impact gun to it. Popped off within 15 sec.

Install new arm reverse of removal. You may need to take a few small bolts off the plastic underbody and fender liners to get more room to work on the top bolt by bushing.

Theres also a adaption reset you can do with GT1. What i found here is, i drove it after changing it first and it seems to adapt itself, when you drive your own car everyday you feel the little changes, and it did for the better. I then reset it with gt1 and really no difference, it is made to adapt so i believe it adatped to the new fluid, but gt1 it if you insist.


Heres my video- difference between good and bad control arms

http://youtu.be/ojTkDPgWlgE

All this typed from my iphone so may be parts missing lol, onto some pics

Under car-

Drain bolt location-

Fill plug-

Old fluid-

New arms-

Xdrive fluid white bottle-

Lower bolt you need to slip this off-

Tool to get to get that apart-

That should cover it all, any questions just ask -- and enjoy.

[Isambard]

You could save your pennies even more than you already have as you don't need a balljoint splitter for that. Loosen the nut and give it a couple of 'taps' with the club-hammer-looking persuader. The shock factor goes from 0 to free in under 6 seconds.

Also, unless your roads are like a brand new race track, or you like driving Miss Daisy you'll be changing those bushes (whole arms again if you feel that way inclined) in about 20k miles-genuine or not. And at $82 for the pair my guess is they are not, which probably brings them down to 15k miles..

[4.8isX5]

Lol... I would give you $200 cash if you broke it loose with taps of hammer.. Used air hammer, 2lb sledge, torching etc. Didnt budge a mm. But if youd like to use that method go ahead.

It may come off easier for those who live in a southern climate with no road salt etc. But you werent getting this off without the separator.

[Isambard]

I've done it twice in the 5+ years of ownership, so yeah that method worked for me-both times. Am using poly bushes now and have not looked back since. http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ne-bushes.html

Don't know about the 'southern climate', it was the disgusting cold and wet climate of the UK.

Will that be US$ or AUS$ ?

[Ricky Bobby]

I changed my arms at 65k and they were SHOT. I'll see how long these Meyle HD arms last, if they have good enough life I'll just replace with same Meyle HD, if I get shoddy lifespan out of the bushings i'll go to powerflex next time around.

Nice writeup!!

[audiophool]

Originally Posted by 4.8isX5

Lol... I would give you $200 cash if you broke it loose with taps of hammer.. Used air hammer, 2lb sledge, torching etc. Didnt budge a mm. But if youd like to use that method go ahead.

It may come off easier for those who live in a southern climate with no road salt etc. But you werent getting this off without the separator.

I popped my tension arms out of the lower balljoint with a few taps (well, whacks) of a 40oz hammer. The b-atch was getting that ball joint out of the knuckle. And I live well in the salt and rust belt.

[JCL]

Two comments for the OP:

1) You don't mention resetting the transfer case after changing the fluid. See the BMW service instruction. The computer measures clutch engagement times and adapts to fluid condition.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...xperience.html

2) Why would turning a crush washer over prevent one from replacing it? It seals on both sides, and a leak on side a is just as bad as a leak on side b. Good practice to replace it every time.

[Gurjit]

what led you to change your front tension arms?
bushings visibly worn?
or a slight noise/movement when moving slow and applying the brakes quickly? (feeling like the wheels moving out of normal alignment)

[Isambard]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Nice writeup!!

Thanks RB

[Brandon002]

Originally Posted by Gurjit

a slight noise/movement when moving slow and applying the brakes quickly? (feeling like the wheels moving out of normal alignment)

I just started experiencing this the other day. I plan on getting the ECS front suspension rebuild kit and replacing everything while I'm under there, then getting an alignment.