Vibration madness online.

[Bmwtvboy]

It seems this vibration issue is lingering for many. First, is there a link to 2001,x5 3.0 motor mount replacement? Second has anyone confirmed that this mount change fixes vibration in the cabin, steering wheel area. Strangely, the auto shift knob and area around the auto trans doesn't vibrate as bad as the driver door, steering wheel and flooring. Mechanic checked out drive-train connections and claims they solid. I just read that someone stated its the front CV joint. Ideas? Thoughts? Solutions greatly appreciated. I have an honest, professional mechanic who has worked on this x before. 178K. Thanks.

[Brandon002]

Is it vibrating at idle? While driving? While braking?

[Bmwtvboy]

It is at idle, in drive and reverse. Brake on. Almost disappears when in Neutral. minor in park. No vib in driving forward, just a strange bouncy feel in the front end. Steering and braking is normal. No swaying. No dipping. Steering is tight and precise. Great at highway speeds.

[Gray035]

I think I have a similar issue. Ill be watching this thread!

[Bmwtvboy]

Diagnose:
Motor mounts replaced and firmed up ride and reduced vibration for awhile.
When the car is in D at a stop it vibrates intensely through the steering wheel and in the cabin. BUT no vibe on the center console. Vibrates in R too.
At idle in D no brake it will slowly roll forward with no vibration.
Idle in D it hangs at 500 rpm , in Neutral it rises to 650/700 and the vibration reduces greatly. Highway speeds are smooth, fast and responsive. No slipping or jerking in the tranny during upshifts Sometimes there is a response jerk motion when braking, then releasing and rolling. Like the tranny is catching the engine revs. Happens rarely.
Mechanic stated no codes. The complete drive train is tight and doesn't seem to be worn. -He mentioned possible plug issue. PLugs were replaces about 15K miles ago with Iridium. Coils are original 01,3.0 = 178500K. I replaced the rubber boot throttle body inlet tube and that seem to fix the problem after the mounts were replaced. But now it's worse. I tried running the AC
during testing and the vibration continued the same. I am at my witts end.
What else can I check out that would have an effect on this?

[budoy]

Mine is having the exact issue as well. Subscribed!

[slowlanemcvane]

Sounds like your idle is low. M54s should idle right around 750 RPM in drive. Common sources of this issue are: old, clogged fuel filter, worn VANOS seals, Idle Control Valve (ICV), dirty Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). If I had to start somewhere, I would recommend cleaning your MAF and ICV. If that doesn't solve it, you can work to the fuel filter and the VANOS seals.

Additionally, Iridium plugs aren't ideal on these cars. I would recommend (at your convenience) switching to a NGK BKR6EQUP plug. Don't worry about ignition coils, as these only go bad by literally going bad. They don't really wear out over time.

[Bmwtvboy]

It does idle slightly above the 500 mark. But, fuel filter, where? The X5 did sit for a period of about 5 months last spring/summer in garage. Vanos seals, will they be making a noise? When you say coils "go bad" what does that mean?
OHM reading check? I will change the plugs even though it's been about 20K miles. What do I clean the MAF AND THE ICV WITH? CARB cleaner? Brake cleaner? About three weeks ago I replaced the rubber intake/throttle body boot and noticed my ICV was solid, no noise when shaken. Looked fairly clean.
Vanos seal job difficult? Where do you like to buy your parts?
Thanks again.
Jeff

[slowlanemcvane]

Where to begin...the fuel filter is under the car, near the fuel tank. There is a large cover over the fuel tank, filter, and charcoal canister back there. Go to ECS Tuning ( OEM / Performance / Maintenance / Repair / Replacement Parts and kits for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche and Volkswagen - ECS Tuning ) and look up the part, they usually have decent prices on maintenance items. If your car sat for a few months, without having the fuel "preserved" it could have created some varnish in the tank, which may have fouled your filter.

Coils don't generally go bad, they usually just fail. If you aren't getting codes, I wouldn't worry about the coils.

VANOS seals themselves don't make any noise, but sometimes they result in poor quality or low RPM idle, torque surges, especially low in the RPM range, and below-average fuel economy. If you hear a rattle near the front of your engine over in front of the valve cover, you can buy a kit that includes the "rattle kit." VANOS overhaul is a pretty in-depth repair process, but if you want to look into it, the parts are cheap and can be purchased as a kit from Beisan Systems, Beisan Systems - Products and click on the one for Double Vanos.

The MAF can be cleaned with any over-the-counter MAF cleaner, and the ICV can be cleaned with any Carb and Choke Cleaner. I used the Gumout brand on my car, and it worked great.

I usually stick with ECS Tuning for most of my stuff, as they offer competitive prices on most things, and shipping is generally pretty reasonable. Pelican Parts is another resource, and I've used them a few times. Other places, check out FCP Euro, they have great deals and discounted shipping going on right now.

I hope this helps. Sorry for the wordy reply, I just like to type. LOL

[Bmwtvboy]

No, I enjoyed your descriptions. Thing is I am getting great gas mileage. Last highway trip 22.5 and around town is usually 18. I do have to check more of the vacuum lines, particularly under the engine covers. Also, what have you found with regards to the air spreader/intake rubber grommets. There was a utube that dealt with this intake issue. I also want to be sure no of this is related to the exhaust side or emission air pump system. I did do all four O2 sensors last tune up. I will get the goods and give all this a try, not sure about tackling the vanos seal kit right now. Hopefully it's ok for awhile. I realize 180K on a 2001 is pretty good mileage. BTW, no oil burning or leaking...