Rear Brakes

[Daka]

I haven't done any brakes in a long time but when I had new tires put on they noted that I'd be needing pads in about 5k miles....
I may do it myself, I was wondering what pads you guys have been using....low dist for the rear?
I'm thinking the hardest part is jacking and removing the rear (heavy) wheels...how long did it take ya'?
tnx

[Ricky Bobby]

The rear brakes won't be needing any special tools, some go for the Akebono Euro ceramic pads for low dust, but you do lose some initial brake bite.

TiagX5 used Cool Carbon pads on his brake job, found at BavAuto.

I would get a nice fresh set of rotors too, I always liked Hawk HPS pads on my Volkswagens.

Try this kit out with nice anti corrosion rotors as well:

BMW E53 X5 N62 4.4L Braking Service Kit - ECSE533421-6KT - Performance Rear Brake Service Kit - ES#2598279

Or if you like plain rotors those come coated as well:

BMW E53 X5 N62 4.4L Braking Rotors - 34116794300KT2 - Front Brake Rotors - Pair (332x30) - ES#2594247

[dhoggs]

I just did my brakes a couple of months ago and it took me 1.5-2hrs to do all 4. That was my first time doin it mysefl so the first one took the longest. The other 3 went pretty quick.

[motordavid]

I have used rear diff as rear jacking point several times with no problem...
See the link, pic #11, as you scroll down.

I do use a nice old piece of plywood as a 'cushion'; rear diff or just off center on rear susp arm: both work fine.

Then, put in place a solid set of jack stands under the rear side jack points.

Wheels are heavy but not killer, and may req' a good kick on top/bottom of tire sidewall while sitting on floor to 'loosen', as wheel centers tend to stick to wheel hubs over time.

I vote for best bite vs low dust; pages of threads on here as to everyone's faves...
GL, mD

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...points-x5.html

[Daka]

I'm wondering, at 66k miles wife driven...very easy driver, could they be original, fronts were changed by BMW at 45k..
I have the car up for sale.
Here's a funny story:
Guy comes looks at the car, agrees on a price (the headliner needs to be done...he'd buy it as is).
Car just came form an indy shop for an oil service 2 months ago, and BMW just had the car for the Air Bag seat fix.
Oil shop says the thermostat is stuck open....not a big deal here in FL, and it will be needing rear brakes soon (a few k miles)
BMW report says thermostat is open and will need rear brakes soon (NO warning light on yet)
I take the car to the prospective buyers mechanic, reports the pan is leaking, needs front brakes rotors etc....at which point I just tell him to put the car back on the ground....I'm done here
Prospective buyer calls me well, car needs a few THOUSAND $ work, would I be willing to take off ..... at which point I tell him to come and pick up his deposit....s*****g
So, now I have another prospective buyer, lets see what his "mechanic" says tomorrow
Luckily I'm retired and have the time for this fun stuff....
I'm going to do the rear brakes next week, if it doesn't sell on Monday....(may even keep it for while....)

[Gregory891]

Changed my rear brakes earlier this summer, I knew it was coming and then the pad light came on - so I knew it truly was time. I replaced the rotors at the same time and the pad sensor.

Ate is the OEM for the E53 rotors, they are TUV rated (not an issue in North America but why take something that isn't rated for the most the car can do)? I used (made in Germany) Bendix pads - likely rebranded Textar or Jurid. There are as many opinions about pads as drops in a bucket.

If you started with a 1602, you know how to change brakes. This is easy. 1 to 2 hours max. Same practice applies: use good jack stands, remove some brake fluid from the master, pump the brakes a few times after you change the pads before driving, reset the pad light per practice (leave key in ignition position for 30+ seconds until the light goes out), bed in the pads appropriately, etc.

[bcredliner]

EBC red stuff are low dust. As mentioned there is some loss of initial bite but I think the overall stopping distance is less. BMW rotors are not that thick, I recommend changing the rotors. You will also need a new brake pad sensor. The job is straight forward. The only areas that can be a little of a hassle are compressing the brake pistons and getting the rotors off unless you don't plan to use them again.

[cn90]

I use mostly Pagid, Jurid and ATE brands.

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