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  #1  
Old 09-12-2014, 12:52 AM
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New to the Forum and to the X5! But not new to BMW! :)

So I finally pulled the trigger on my first SUV as Ive been wanting an AWD for winter and was looking at everything from Lexus, Acura to Mercedes and BMW! My final decision ended with a 04 X5 4.4i.

Car has a few issues like the rear door handle and check engine light is on. Pulled the codes from it and Im getting a P2187 and P2189 (System to lean at Idle Bank 1 and Bank 2). Also the filler cap is a bit hard to pull off when the engine is running which makes me believe that the CCV's are bad on it. Been doing a lot of reading on these cars prior to the purchase and after and I have to admit I was a bit worried and kept stating to myself what did I get myself into with all these problems with the X5's have! I haven't gone into the engine fully yet due to work but I was able to confirm that 5-8 CCV rubber was ripped other one seemed fine...so a few questions for you all.

The high crankcase vacuum from the fill cap is most likely the CCV I found ripped? Once replaced I should be able to turn the car back on and try the filler cap removal again and this time it should be minimal vacuum? The hoses on there appear to be good and look new actually so Im debating if I want to replace them anyways?

As for the error codes Im getting from reading it appears that its caused by uncontrolled air not being regulated by the maf which was due to the ripped ccv so if I replace both ccv's, reset the ses I should be ok.

Im reading a lot of issues with the valve seals but during idle or stop and go Im not seeing any smoke from the tailpipes so Im not to worried about those at this time but if it comes down to it reading up on it and the diy and with the correct tools it doesn't seem to bad other than the time it will take to do all 32 seals. Crossing fingers it doesn't happen anytime soon so I can at least enjoy the car for a bit!

Last but not least the rear handle it appears that the handle carrier goes bad which is making it extremely hard to open up the door from the outside.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-12-2014, 10:15 PM
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Bump for knowledgable users here..
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  #3  
Old 09-13-2014, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by pnoyako85 View Post
Bump for knowledgable users here..
Thanks! I'm trying to be at least!
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  #4  
Old 09-13-2014, 02:24 PM
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how many miles?any pics?
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:12 PM
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pics and info of your car too btw...lol OP
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  #6  
Old 09-15-2014, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electricalserv x5 View Post
how many miles?any pics?
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Originally Posted by pnoyako85 View Post
pics and info of your car too btw...lol OP
Ill try to get some pictures later this week. Its at 190k.


As for Updates on the X5.......

So I finally got around to replacing both CCV's, Spark Plugs and oil change with 5x30 Castrol Syn. Started the car and rechecked the filler cap and it was extremely easier to remove. It will still have vacuum and it bogs down and runs a bit rough when a high volume of air is being sucked in but I believe that is normal. Anyways cleared codes and drove it around yesterday. Good news is that the SES light is off and staying off and the car runs great but as everyone else at idle, traffic, drive thru, etc after taking off there's a cloud of smoke that comes out of the tailpipe. Odd thing is that it didn't smoke when I was testing driving it and had it at idle when I bought it. I have a feeling that they must have put in thicker oil that's the only thing I can think of???

So a few questions....

I know its a temp fix but read on here that going a tad bit thicker helped some people. Thinking of doing one more oil change with Mobile 1 5x40 higher mileage and going with a Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Ive ran that in my M3 and Ive never had any issues using it. I know BMW states not to use additives but I pulled the trigger and did. So that's what Im thinking of trying on this. From what I remember the Lucas additives reconditions seals also know as swelling the seals to help minimize oil burning.

  1. Eventually Im going to have to have to replace the valve seals so is there a upgraded version of these seals BMW sells? Or shall I go aftermarket and who makes them?
  2. For the seal replacement the best kit Ive seen so far is All German Auto's N62 Valve Steam Seal Complete Tool Kit (Pricey). Does anyone know if theres a cheaper alternative out there? Or better yet anyone in the California who has one that I can use?
  3. Is there a manual I can follow as Im hearing the Bentley Service Manual has nothing on the 4.4i. Mainly need to know timing and would be nice to figure out how things come off which Im sure Ill be able to figure out but good to have something to reference.
  4. Also when I do this Im thinking of tackling everything all at once. So far from what Ive read the Coolant Pipe leaks near the water pump and found two companies that makes these. All German and Bimmerfix. I was thinking of trying Bimmerfix Life Time Warranty Fix.
  5. Timing Guides and Chains. Anything else Im missing?
Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Johnny_5; 09-15-2014 at 02:20 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2014, 08:54 AM
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Doru just made a very helpful thread about replacing the valve stem seals. Yes there is an updated BMW part but Elring Klinger brand is guaranteed to be the newer style.

It will cost 2500 by Indy mechanic to do it or approx 1000 to rent the special tool and DIY
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Old 09-16-2014, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Doru just made a very helpful thread about replacing the valve stem seals. Yes there is an updated BMW part but Elring Klinger brand is guaranteed to be the newer style.

It will cost 2500 by Indy mechanic to do it or approx 1000 to rent the special tool and DIY
Thanks for the info. Ill look into those valve stem seals.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2014, 12:46 AM
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So Ive been doing a lot of reading and talking to a few shops here and there and they have a few valid points ... if the valve seals were going bad when I replaced the spark plugs it would show evidence of plug fowling but none of mine does. Also at start up the car seems fine with no smoke. If the seals were bad during shut downs oil would seep down the valve and puddle up and during next start, cold or warm it would puff a cloud of smoke. Also read where some people had them done and still ended up smoking. Any thoughts?
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2014, 12:53 AM
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Does anyone know how good the Graf waterpumps are? They appear to have a metal impeller on them? Any thoughts on what brand pump I should go would be great.
Thanks
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