Has anyone used bimmerfix stint coolant fix kit?

[Johnny_5]

Originally Posted by Sarek

The expanding tubes are a better compromise to the original bmw pipe than the small pipe with a bunch of silicone IMO. Kinda seems to be a bit of a rig job using all of that silicone. I guess if it works and you are ok with that sort of thing. I have used both AGA and another brand. Both work and dont rely so heavily on a gasket sealer or gasket maker to replace the rubber gasket.

Just when I was convinced to try it out you post and get me second guessing again! Lol. It's all good though looking to hear other thoughts on this. From what I hear even the collapsible ones can fail in time. So technically both are semi fixes and it's really a fix for the same issue. I see where you are coming from with all that silicone as a sealant.

[Sarek]

I have installed a bunch of the aga ones with no issues. It is big $ though. I used the one that worldpac sells. Not as nice as the aga, but much less $. I just hate silicone

[Johnny_5]

Originally Posted by Sarek

I have installed a bunch of the aga ones with no issues. It is big $ though. I used the one that worldpac sells. Not as nice as the aga, but much less $. I just hate silicone

Do you have a picture or a link of the ones you bought? I just cant find myself to paying that much for the AGA Pipe as theres a few other brands I found as well but still up there in pricing and is why I was debating on trying the bimmerfix pipe but like you all the silicone being used was worrisome but its not like it will get into the system to other places from what Jeff stated and its a lifetime warranty on it if it doesn't work than he refunds you back the money so that's another reason why I was debating that route.

[Sarek]

APA/URO coolant tube is the one that I have used. List price is around $260 ish. Installed one about a year ago. Not as nice as aga. No silicone needed though. Still have to pull the intake and valley pan. But valley pans leak too. Kill 2 birds with one stone. I still prefer the original tube or aga. But so far the apa/uro is doing well. No guarantee would make me use so much silicone. Its not that it would get anywhere, its just not right in my opinion. If I had to pull that lower timing cover off and I saw that stint all siliconed up in there, I wouldnt say "wow! That looks like a quality repair".

[logle]

I just installed my second Bimmerfix stint this weekend. The first was on my 645 in April. This past weekend was a friends 645. IMO this is superior to the expanding tube and more permanent. I was skeptical at first also but if properly installed this reinforces the original coolant pipe seal from the inside and permanently prevents it from ever leaking again. Installation is also much easier. It took me just over 4 hours to install with (relatively) minor disassembly. If anyone is in central Texas and needs help or wants it installed let me know. Cheers, Bob

[Johnny_5]

Originally Posted by logle

I just installed my second Bimmerfix stint this weekend. The first was on my 645 in April. This past weekend was a friends 645. IMO this is superior to the expanding tube and more permanent. I was skeptical at first also but if properly installed this reinforces the original coolant pipe seal from the inside and permanently prevents it from ever leaking again. Installation is also much easier. It took me just over 4 hours to install with (relatively) minor disassembly. If anyone is in central Texas and needs help or wants it installed let me know. Cheers, Bob

Wish you were in Cali lol.

[jfoj]

I installed the BimmerFix stent in my 2008 4.8l as a PM item when my water pump bearings went at about 72k miles. I had the water pump out and decided I might as well go for the stent as a PM item.

The only tricky part was a bit of sanding and getting the grit from the sand paper and the aluminum dust/particles out of the coolant pipe, not hard, just wanted to be very thorough.

Found it a bit tricky to get the last inch or so of the stent to slide into the coolant pipe. Luckily I had located a 1/2" drive socket that was just the O.D. of the pipe and exactly the depth needed, so I just used the socket to set the final depth of the pipe in the coolant pipe.

The foam brushes cleaned up any silicon that was inside the pipe I.D. without any problems.

I have a Hamburg Tech 90C thermostat in the engine and I had been watching the temps closely with a UltraGauge before the pump was replaced and the stent was installed. If the stent impacted the coolant temp any at all, it was likely only 1-2F at best if there was a change at all.

In hindsight if you replace your water pump, which I would recommend as a PM by 70k miles if you have not already exceeded this, I would plan on installing a BimmerFix pipe.

[cham]

theres a huge thread on the 7 series forums on the b fest forums.

you have to keep sanding until it goes in the specified depth. mine didnt slide easily in/out - just needs a slight bit of persuasion, but once you are able to get it to teh required depth, youre good to go. I had my entire engine apart down to the valley pan - this fix is the real deal. no reason to replace whole pipe

[Colt45]

I too just tried the kit. It is not working. I think it's because my old o-ring was torn...in such case the remaining o-ring should be completely cleaned out first I think.
I do want to give another try thou as Jeff was sending another kit for free (btw, he has been very helpful). HOWEVER, first, I can't seem to remove the stent out there. The bond and the stent seems very strong. Cut/saw 1" inch so into the stent at 6 o'clock and tried with a small metal pry bar...only peeled about 3/4" with a lot force. Not enough space. The remove is a lot tougher than I thought.

Need some ideas, badly.

[jfoj]

Unfortunately you have already started to cut the replacement stint out, so you are committed.

Unless you did not get enough silicon on the tube or did not clean and dry the engine and tube, you should not have had much of a problem. Keep in mind the intake valley pan can also leak.

I have not good idea at this point, it seems you will need to pull the valley pan, more work but not so bad, cut the original tube out an install a expandable tube.

As I recall you just replace the valley pan because of how the seals are molded on the valley pan cover???

I installed by Bimmerfix tube as PM item, I had no leaks, but had the water pump out and decided to go for it. If I have a leak in the future, I would bet the valley pan would be leaking and not the transfer tube with the Bimmer fix.

Good luck on this one. I might go there URO pipe route as it is one of the cheaper replacement pipes out there. Then if you were nervous you would install the replacement Bimmerfix in the URO pipe??