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  #21  
Old 01-27-2015, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Open the fill cap when the engine is cold and has not yet run to check if coolant is up to the proper level in the expansion tank. Put the cap back on and make sure it is tight.

Do not remove the fill cap when the engine is running as the system is pressurized. Open The bleed screw, right next to the fill cap, should be open only enough so that coolant comes out and leave it open until only coolant comes out. Do not remove the bleed screw.
Do you need to siphon coolant out after you get to the no bubbles from the bleeder screw point?
Seems the level would be way to full if your pouring coolant into it until your bubble free.
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2015, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo View Post
Do you need to siphon coolant out after you get to the no bubbles from the bleeder screw point?
Seems the level would be way to full if your pouring coolant into it until your bubble free.
No. When the engine cools back down the coolant level will drop in the reservoir. Then you can top up the system to the "Cold" or "Kalt" fill line on the float.

Do not open the fill cap with the system pressurized... which it will be if you are trying to bleed the system.
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  #23  
Old 01-28-2015, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
No. When the engine cools back down the coolant level will drop in the reservoir. Then you can top up the system to the "Cold" or "Kalt" fill line on the float.

Do not open the fill cap with the system pressurized... which it will be if you are trying to bleed the system.
OK I checked it yesterday while cold and the measure stick goes all the way up as far as it can.
When I open the bleed screw there was coolant there up to the top also.
I am wanting to bleed the air out and make the level right after changing out my ET last week.
Does this sound correct???
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  #24  
Old 01-28-2015, 10:15 AM
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Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2015, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.
Thanks!!!


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  #26  
Old 02-06-2015, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo View Post
Thanks!!!


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No problem. I forgot to mention in there that during step 4 you might want to blip the throttle and rev it up to like 3000rpm a few times to help dislodge any stuck air bubbles or pockets.
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  #27  
Old 02-07-2015, 03:14 PM
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Concerning the rear vents, I would check the ductwork going back thru the center console. If it was ever taken apart, it might not have been put together properly, thus releasing air elsewhere...
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  #28  
Old 02-09-2015, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mam4.6 View Post
Concerning the rear vents, I would check the ductwork going back thru the center console. If it was ever taken apart, it might not have been put together properly, thus releasing air elsewhere...
I would but I have no idea how to get any of that apart.
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  #29  
Old 02-11-2015, 01:08 PM
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If you open the console the rear compartment of the two will pull out. Once you have pulled it out look at the rear toward the vent you will see a vertical piece that is almost as wide as the compartment. That piece can be out of place if someone has been working in that area. I have not seen it get out of place on it's own but it is easy to check. The piece also just pulls out. It connects to the incoming air and links to the rear air duct inlet.
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  #30  
Old 02-11-2015, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo View Post
I would but I have no idea how to get any of that apart.
If you check the Avin Avant install I did there are instructions for accessing that duct work. It is pretty easy to become dislodged (or not installed properly) if someone has been in there.
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