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  #11  
Old 06-25-2019, 10:59 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzimak View Post
How much of it do we apply?

Until the noise stops



Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzimak View Post
Thanx, but on adjusting these latches, how do U know the right position?

Until the noise stops
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  #12  
Old 06-26-2019, 09:37 AM
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My Short-Term Fix

Hey everyone, just some feedback, I used electrical tape as advised, the knocking sound I used to get when reversing seems gone for now, not sure for how long. Then the main rattling noise I used to hear from the back when driving was indeed the Flap that covers the boot area, also took an advice from the forum, one guy used a Rubber Glove, it looked a little untidy so I used a Peg, separated it into two and put pieces in both sides of the Flap. I can guarantee that the rattling is gone.

As for the Adjustable Bumpers I couldn't figure out how to move them so I left them as is. I also tightened the bolts on the locker, this solved the fact that my boet was no longer closing Flush against the car and dust was building up as seen in the images. That problem is solved now. Thanx everyone.

Now on my to-do list, Faulty Parking Brakes, Increased Battery Drain, A Constant Beep that keeps going on it's own coming from the Engine Area when the car is parked and locked, beeps like 10 times, then silent, then again after say 5min, and lastly the front water drains unblocking before summer, I'll have to strip the car for this one.

See attached images.

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Last edited by Muzimak; 06-26-2019 at 12:03 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2019, 05:45 PM
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That latch plate moves up and down on my 2008 x5 picture #3. I had the same problem until I moved it, no more rattle.
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2019, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCRIX5 View Post
That latch plate moves up and down on my 2008 x5 picture #3. I had the same problem until I moved it, no more rattle.
I failed moving that thing, how do U move it and to which position?
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2019, 06:31 PM
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If the tailgate were shut it would go down. Now that I'm thinking more about it, one side or the other moved either the latch or catch. I know that I moved mine until it stopped and then tightened it. It wasn't a lot that it moved.
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  #16  
Old 08-08-2019, 12:19 PM
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To add on the previous fixes I found this video very helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExulM_3jo6s
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2019, 04:00 PM
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Hey guys. New 2013 xDrive35i owner - First time poster. The trunk fixes worked great for me. I also had rattles coming from both of my rear (2nd row) seats. I got some clear tubing (plumbing section) at Home Depot (think it was 3/8" internal diameter) and cut it down the middle, put it on each latch and wrapped once with electrical tape. Tightened 'em right up and figured the tubing would be easier to replace than multiple layers of electrical tape. This technique didn't work for the center trunk latch - it took up too much room and the upper lid wasn't flush. Hope that helps anyone chasing other creaks.
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2019, 09:20 PM
ard ard is offline
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Good tips. Welcome
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2019, 06:51 PM
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I fixed this by tightening the two hex bolts on the center latch (the whole unit had come loose). I just pushed it to the bottom of its slot (furthest in towards the front of the vehicle) and tightened it so that it no longer rattled.


Then, I had to move the rubber bumpers on the sides upward so that the upper half of the tailgate would stop rattling.


Over time, I have only had to raise the rubber bumpers on the side when the tailgate started rattling again. The center latch did not come loose again.


No tape, no tubing, no rubber foam dampeners needed.
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