Help with oil leak

[Davidf]

The blower motor quit on my '08 a few weeks ago. Like most, I suspected the speed controller was the culprit. The blower is relatively easily removed for testing. The resistor is mounted on the fan, so it comes out with the fan. You should then remove/disconnect the resistor and test the blower motor. If the motor does not spin with 12v directly applied, you know it is faulty. If it spins, reconnect the resistor and temporarily plug it back into the vehicle. If the fan then runs normal, you need a new blower motor, not resistor. If the blower does not work, you need a new resistor.

The issue can be that the motor brushes wear and loose contract with the armature. The act of removing the fan and testing it causes the brushes to regain contact and the motor runs. This is temporary and the motor will soon not run again. The above test procedure accounts for this scenario.

For me, the fan ran with direct voltage applied and then again when reconnected to the car. I replaced the blower motor and all is well.

New fans come with a new speed controller. So, my suggestion is always simply replace the fan and get a new speed controller (i.e. resistor, FSU, etc) as a bonus. Cost is about $215 (after 20% discount and before taxes).

[BustedKnuckles]

Originally Posted by Davidf

The blower motor quit on my '08 a few weeks ago. Like most, I suspected the speed controller was the culprit. The blower is relatively easily removed for testing. The resistor is mounted on the fan, so it comes out with the fan. You should then remove/disconnect the resistor and test the blower motor. If the motor does not spin with 12v directly applied, you know it is faulty. If it spins, reconnect the resistor and temporarily plug it back into the vehicle. If the fan then runs normal, you need a new blower motor, not resistor. If the blower does not work, you need a new resistor.

The issue can be that the motor brushes wear and loose contract with the armature. The act of removing the fan and testing it causes the brushes to regain contact and the motor runs. This is temporary and the motor will soon not run again. The above test procedure accounts for this scenario.

For me, the fan ran with direct voltage applied and then again when reconnected to the car. I replaced the blower motor and all is well.

New fans come with a new speed controller. So, my suggestion is always simply replace the fan and get a new speed controller (i.e. resistor, FSU, etc) as a bonus. Cost is about $215 (after 20% discount and before taxes).

That sounds very counter intuitive... If you replaced the whole assembly then there is no way to know for sure what the exact issue was in your case. Testing it just like you stated should prove the blower is ok. If you hook it up to a 12 volt and it runs nice and steady for a couple minutes then it should be fine. If there is an intermittent problem with either part, just plugging it back into the vehicle to run it doesn't prove anything. The fault could simply not be occurring at that time.

If OP's issue is that the speed is jumping all over the place then it is likely the resistor. Hence "speed controller". However, if OP is going to pull the blower it would probably be better to just replace the whole assembly to be sure just like in your case, so I guess unless you are really strapped for cash my argument is invalid...

My E46 was doing the exact same thing as OP's car. All I replaced was the resistor and had no more issues all the way up until I sold the car.

[eurogreek1]

Any recommendations of where to buy the blower motor/controller? Thanks for the help guy!

[ard]

Originally Posted by eurogreek1

Thank for the 411. I really hate this X5! Always had bmws and this X5 is the worst. I want to upgrade next year to the new X.

LOL

We just dont know yet what the F15 has in store for those owners...it WILL be something

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by ard

LOL

We just dont know yet what the F15 has in store for those owners...it WILL be something

And it will most certainly be harder to fix, whatever that something(s) is(are).

[the_ulf]

oh ye of little faith...

[eurogreek1]

So I put in the blower motor and control. The air is still fluctuating. Any recommendations? Also, underneath the passenger side next to the light, there is a little box that has access on the panel. What is it?

Another part I don't know and I need a little help with is next to the blower motor. Makes some noise once I turn of the ignition. What is it? I unscrewed a few of the t20 screws an noticed that the hexagon insert what a little worn.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by BustedKnuckles

That sounds very counter intuitive... If you replaced the whole assembly then there is no way to know for sure what the exact issue was in your case. Testing it just like you stated should prove the blower is ok. If you hook it up to a 12 volt and it runs nice and steady for a couple minutes then it should be fine. If there is an intermittent problem with either part, just plugging it back into the vehicle to run it doesn't prove anything. The fault could simply not be occurring at that time.

If OP's issue is that the speed is jumping all over the place then it is likely the resistor. Hence "speed controller". However, if OP is going to pull the blower it would probably be better to just replace the whole assembly to be sure just like in your case, so I guess unless you are really strapped for cash my argument is invalid...

My E46 was doing the exact same thing as OP's car. All I replaced was the resistor and had no more issues all the way up until I sold the car.

No, my test proved the brushes on the blower motor were worn to the point where inadequate contact to the amature is being made. tapping on the blower motor or disturbing it will cause the brushes to make contact for a short time. If you replace the blower motor, you get the speed controller with it.