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#1
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Charge air pipe installation issue.
I removed the charge air pipe on the passenger side. Replaced the seals as i was told they were leaking. My issue is that now i can't seem to reinstall the top portion of the pipe. The bottom is in and snug, good to go but the top won't go on and stay on. It looks like there is a lip i have to push the pipe past to get a proper seal but i just can't seem to get it over. Any suggestions would be awesome. Thanks in advance. I've attached a photo of the lip i am referring to. Last edited by Wheelman4670; 07-24-2017 at 01:32 PM. |
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#2
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Try to twist a bit while pushing up, iirc there's a notch that has to line up between the female and male plugs.
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#3
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I have an oil leak on the passenger side and suspect charge pipe seals.
How difficult is this job and removal of the charge cooler? Are there any special instructions or tools necessary? |
#4
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thanks robnitro, i will attempt that. I twisted it a little bit last time but it didn't seem to line up. It's tough to twist it but i will give it another go.
nikpottala, the job isn't too difficult. It's tight and you can't really see much. If the cooler was lowered it would definitely free up some space and you could also remove the belt that is in the way. I chose the lazy approach and thought i could do it no problem but getting the pipe back on after installing the new seals has proven slightly more difficult than i thought. |
#5
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It's been a while since I did this, but I recall the top portion of the charge air hose has an attached semi-circular clip that has to be pulled back before installing the hose. As robnitro said, there are notches that need to be aligned - though I'm not sure if the notches are only at the top of the hose, or just the bottom, or both? I seem to recall them only being on the bottom connection, but I could be wrong. Once the notches are aligned (if present) and the hose is seated, then the semi-circular clip is pushed in to hold the hose in place.
I have done it with the fan/fan cowl in place and after removal of the fan/fan cowl. Much, much easier if the fan is out. You can see things much better and work it both from above and below. So if you continue to have problems, it might be worth the time and effort to remove the fan. Here is a link for a great DIY on bimmerfest. The link is for a DIY on the idler pulley belt tensioner, but there is a detailed description for removing the fan. FYI, with experience, I can get the fan out in about 15 minutes. Good luck. Hope that helps.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife Last edited by sgrice; 07-25-2017 at 02:55 PM. |
#6
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You may want to find out why there's oil in there in the first place, no?
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#7
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So i got the top portion in place with the help of a neighbor. Apparently i just lacked the strength to move it an extra 1/8th inch. I took a look at the idler diy link and i didn't remove the fan shroud but i did remove the upper support bar and the coolant hose that comes off the thermostat. It gave me access from above and a better view. Having said all that and thinking that the bottom portion was on and tight. My sav proved me wrong yet again. Needless to say but it's at the mechanics now. I tapped out.
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#8
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Did you lubricate the new o-rings?
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![]() 2009 xDrive35D Comfort seats, Tech, Premium, Cold Weather, Sport w/ Adaptive Drive, Extended Nappa Leather Deleted & Stg 2+ Tune for over 115k miles 227k on the clock Being replaced by a 2016 X5d |
#9
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Yes sir.
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#10
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I know this will sound excessive, but removing the intercooler makes the overall job much easier and ensures proper install of the charge pipe. Plus gives a chance to wash intercooler.
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