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  #31  
Old 09-23-2018, 10:40 PM
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I tried doing the front struts today.... got everything loose, but couldn’t completely remove the strut assembly.... any tips on how to unhook the wishbone or is there anything else supposed to be removed?
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  #32  
Old 09-23-2018, 11:05 PM
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I haven’t done my front struts yet but I plan to follow this excellent DIY

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ive-drive.html

and these procedures

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...truts/1MXgRa0M

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...struts/GaVu4b9

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...struts/GVak7pn

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  #33  
Old 09-23-2018, 11:18 PM
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Note: Page 1 of the 1st TIS in my previous post includes this ...

Important!
To be able to lower the swivel bearing far enough, it is necessary to align the output shaft so that one of the marked surfaces (1) points upwards.


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  #34  
Old 09-24-2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunfDreisig View Post
Note: Page 1 of the 1st TIS in my previous post includes this ...

Important!
To be able to lower the swivel bearing far enough, it is necessary to align the output shaft so that one of the marked surfaces (1) points upwards.


Funf Dreisig
SHOOT ME! THAT was totally left out from the DIY's I followed. I also did look at the TIS page, but I must've missed that note!

This Sat was a fail. It took me from 3pm til end of daylight to try to do this and I got nowhere. I was lucky I was able to put everything back together to be able to drive it around again on Sunday morn....

I followed this DIY: https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show....php?t=1348757

Not soo great- this DIY didn't remove the whole assembly together....
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  #35  
Old 10-10-2018, 03:39 PM
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No idea what that output shaft thing meant...probably was not meant for my 2007 x5 model...

I was able to finally get that wishbone off by using a small sledge hammer and this jackhammer tip:

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  #36  
Old 10-10-2018, 03:41 PM
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Only to find a cracked spring (this was an annoying clunk- sounded like something was loose...)!! SMH I ended up only changing the strut on the passenger side. I had to put the driver side back together so I can drive the car while waiting for the spring I ordered online... fml....

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  #37  
Old 10-10-2018, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noelskii View Post
Only to find a cracked spring (this was an annoying clunk- sounded like something was loose...)!! SMH I ended up only changing the strut on the passenger side. I had to put the driver side back together so I can drive the car while waiting for the spring I ordered online... fml....

Yikes! Thanks for the heads up.

I wonder which came first -- the damaged Guide Support(s) or the broken spring? Makes me want to get my struts rebuilt ASAP.


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  #38  
Old 10-10-2018, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunfDreisig View Post
Yikes! Thanks for the heads up.

I wonder which came first -- the damaged Guide Support(s) or the broken spring? Makes me want to get my struts rebuilt ASAP.


Funf Dreisig
Those little guide supports DEFINITELY went first. This spring clunk literally only started a few weeks ago.

Now that I know exactly what I'm doing with this whole thing, I can prob do the whole procedure in just a little over an hour... The slowest part for me is probably compressing the spring...
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  #39  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:52 AM
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I hope my spring is not broken too. I've been hearing loud clunks and squealing noises for a couple of weeks now. From my initial inspection the spring looks intact, but I noticed the lower foam guide in missing. I'll know for sure once i take the strut tower apart.

I'm still waiting on the spring compressor and other parts to be delivered. Sucks having only one car and only the weekend to work on it.
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  #40  
Old 10-16-2018, 06:50 AM
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I rebuilt the front struts and the “clunk in the trunk” disappeared The X5 is both quieter and handles better. Looking back, I should have replaced the shocks earlier — before the Guide Supports turned to powder.

So now I’m onto the next phase of the project — wheel alignment.

Interestingly this newTIS document only lists the following activities that require a subsequent wheel/chassis alignment check

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/QHgymiK



A wheel/chassis alignment check must be carried out after the following work:
• Release of following screw/bolt connections:
◦ Steering gear to front axle carrier
◦ Lower*wishbone to front axle support
◦ Track rod end to track rod
• Replacement of following parts:
1. Front axle support
2. Steering gear
3. Swivel bearing
4. Track rod end
5. Lower control arm / rubber mount
6. Track rod
7. Gaiter (if the tie rod end has to be screwed off)

Noticeably absent is replacing the strut!

None the less, I’ve been reading the threads about alignment. I understand how/where the Toe-In is adjusted. And will take ARD’s advise to get it adjusted to near 0. But despite lots of quality time with my head in the wheel well removing and installing the struts, I just don’t see how/where the front Camber and Caster can be adjusted.

Can the Camber/Castor be adjusted? If so How?

Funf Dreisig
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