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#1
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2011 X5 50i oxygen sensor question
Last edited by Zaner; 10-25-2023 at 11:38 AM. |
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#2
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Do you have a proper BNW dedicated scanner? It would be good to post the code description as well. There often is no easy answer to mixture related codes which is often the reason the car gets traded off in the first place. If the codes are actually for the oxygen sensor or circuit itself that is different than a mixture code. What do you mean by "powered vehicle" ??
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
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#3
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I do have a dedicated bmw scanner and can post descriptions soon. Powered vehicles mean equipped with . LS powered aka LS engine on some GM vehicles or in Ford a Coyote powered car,etc
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#4
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2c2d oxygen sensor before catalytic converter overrun check
.2C2E Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter 2, overrun check - Last edited by Zaner; 10-26-2023 at 02:27 PM. |
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#5
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so 2c2d and 2c2e are right and left bank ?? and overrun means rich ? what are you using for scanner?
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
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#6
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I have no idea whether one is right and one is left bank? That's kind of why I was coming here I'm pretty green to BMW stuff. A lot of these codes and their descriptions are absolutely nothing like what I'm used to from tinkering with GM vehicles. My novice brain was assuming that since those codes had the number two in them but they were both referring to the second Bank which would be the driver side I'm guessing? But even then it's just an assumption I don't know anything about bmws. I'm using a scan tool that I found in the trunk of this X5 when I bought it. It does seem to have live data to a certain degree it looks like I can monitor the O2 sensors it looks like some cheap generic Amazon or ebay scan tool but it seems to do the job
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#7
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Autophix 7910 is the name on the front of the scan tool.. thank you again for attempting to help me I know it's a bit of a pain since I know very little at this point.
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#8
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It would be nice if you had a laptop with BMW software or maybe the Foxwell scanner that some of the others here use so they could chime in. Definitely get yourself a copy of the repair information. The BMW software often has the repair/diagnostic info and strategies linked-in that come up with the related codes.
Especially since the car has been so well maintained at the dealership and there is a scanner in the trunk and you likely got a good deal there is a good chance that it will be not easy to find the problem(s) and/or the fix will be expensive. You might try running a can of catalytic converter cleaner to see what happens, might give some clues. And use only brand name premium gas if you aren't already. I bought an E70 last year as a spare vehicle which I am pretty sure the previous owner was using regular and now have run about 6 tanks of gas through it and it runs better with every tank.
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) Last edited by 80stech; 10-26-2023 at 04:48 PM. |
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#9
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Yeah I agree I need some kind of better software. It has had brand new downpipes put in at dealership last year. Which if memory serves the catalytic converters are in the downpipes as well as injectors and coils and spark plugs and a whole bunch of other stuff all last year. As you said I have a feeling the reason they sold it to me is because of this reoccurring issue, despite them spending a lot of money to resolve it. The kicker Is the vehicle runs fantastic, it's a bummer the check engine light keeps coming on, because it seems like it's coming on for no reason. It runs exactly the same with the light on or off
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#10
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First, the Autophix is the same as the Foxwell units, IMO. Looks the same. Chinese. These are genrally fine, HOWEVER a cable and a laptop with BMW software will give you access to far more. Inclduing the service manual. (Although this will *also* be a learning curve. It isnt as linear as one might hope.)
Second the code numbers have NOTHING to do with banks or whatnot. There was some rational, in German, many years ago but it is not really decipherable. Google the code, then read a lot of info on them. Usually the first 'raw' translation will not mean much. Keep digging. FInally, (and this is a WAG) I think you may be in for a world of hurt. SOmeone spent a lot of time and a lot of money at the dealer chasing this odd issue. They were still stumped after 14k..... Two questions: After you clear the codes, how long until they return? Does HOW you drive it (highway, versus a lot of stop and go/accelerations) have any impact on how long this takes?? I know most people think "read codes, get a computer- tells you what part is bad" is the first path to take. IMO that path had already been paved with $14k of the prior owners money.... Report back Last edited by ard; 10-26-2023 at 07:44 PM. |
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