Extending my 2011 X5 35d's operational life - 182k miles

[josiahg52]

It's time to address the many maintenance issues and start the service life extension of my X5. It has no third-row seat and S225A standard suspension. It has been a FANTASTIC vehicle and given me very little problems. Still rides well and gets 28+ mpg on the highway. There are several DTCs related to NOx sensors and the two DPF replacement ADVISORY codes that get set at a set number of miles. The estimated soot and ash load is still low enough for me not to be concerned about imminent failure. For those interested in DPF replacement, I have looked and contacted probably close to a dozen places offering DPF cleaning and none of them have replied to me. I did find that there are two aftermarket replacement DPFs from Excel Exhaust System, Inc. and W&L Incorporated. Excel's DPF is available for as little as $289 on Amazon and eBay, more on their website, W&L’s seems to be more expensive but loads cheaper than OE. Excel’s is 48-state legal (except CA and NY), and W&L says made in Poland to be 50-state legal.

So, there’s hope if you need a DPF. Do remember, the 452A and 4D4A DTCs are informational codes. 452A indicates the DPF is nearing its design or estimated installed life at around 150k miles. 4D4A indicates the vehicle was driven past the 4D52 estimated life/mileage and is now at “end of life” at around 175k miles. NEITHER indicate a failed or broken DPF by themselves. The 4B9C (P2002) DTC indicates a failed or failing DPF or support indication. Loss of power or lowered fuel mileage may also be an indication.

That’s out of the way, some things being addressed:

- ~1.5 inches of left rear coil spring broken off at very top (looking back at my history, this was reported in 2021, but I don’t remember that, never noticed otherwise, and it got an inspection sticker every year since then)

- sagging rear end

- weeping valve cover gasket (started immediately after using Liqui-Moly oil but has maintained since going back to a NLA Mobil 1 oil that I bought many cases of many years ago)

- blown out power trunk spindles

- replacing NOx sensors

- checking SCR and DEF systems function

- just a worn-out suspension (all control arms, swing arm bushings, stabilizer bar bushings, shocks, springs, rear stabilizer bar end links, integral links, ball joints

- broken sunroof mechanism

- recently failed parking brake actuator (that was the final straw, haha!)

- replacing parking brake hardware and shoes

- fuel filter

- brake system flush

I'll be using a mix of OE parts, and OEM and aftermarket parts from BMW OE, Lemförder Germany and US when available, some Lemförder Turkey and Poland, Meyle Turkey for one pair of control arms, Italian FEBI Bilstein, Sachs Turkey for OEM shocks (I'm really wanting Bilstein B6 but they're out of stock and months away), URO China for the actuator, Tuff Support trunk spindles, Lesjöfors rear springs and Suplex front springs., Vitesco NOx sensors.

Since 85k miles, I've serviced the transmission every 25k miles with BMW pans/filters and ZF or BMW fluid. At 85k, new pan/filter and fresh fluid to top off. At 100k, just a drain and refill with new fluid, 125k, pan/filter and fluid again, 150k, just fluid, so I'm due for a pan and fluid at 182k. Still shifts great, no slipping, fluid always looks clear and red.

Brakes were done at 150k miles, fluid gets flushed every 25k or two to three years. It seems to run about three degrees cool (~85 or 86C, in the winter or summer, and I replaced both thermostats around 100k miles.

Fuel filter was replaced every 30k miles or so. Oil changes were performed every 9-11k miles depending on my schedule.

Front stabilizer links, tie rod ends and center link were replaced also around 100k.

If there's enough left over, I'm considering new headlight assemblies as these things are in their second full decade of operation, although mine look good and work fine. I'd like to get the intake cleaned and install a water/methanol injection system later.

There's more to do, though. I need to start considering rebuilding the turbo, looking at fuel injectors, boost piping, intercooler (clean or replacement), the vacuum system, all those rubber hoses. At some point I'd like to replace the transmission or have mine rebuilt. Then running gear: hubs, CV axles, driveshafts (probably rear since the front one was replaced under a recall), other parts like Mr. Guibo!

I have some questions:

Anyone have experience with the Tuff Support spindles?

Should I service the Mechatronic as well at 182k miles?

Does anyone have the Rennline phone mount? I want to see how it looks from the driver’s seat and for some reason, Rennline won’t share.

[robinasu]

Take a scan of my long winded posts. I did a lot over the years.

[robinasu]

Oops sorry my posts are on BimmerFest I just remembered.

[josiahg52]

Next round:

192,863 miles

- Fluidampr
- new belts, tensioner, idler
- rebuilt original alternator and OAP
- power steering system flush
- new thermostats, coolant flush, radiator, auxiliary radiator, hoses, water pump
- motor, transmission, transfer case mounts, transmission crossmember
- transmission, bridge seals and Mechatronic service
- transfer case fluid
- differential fluid

Bad news is the turbo drain and feed lines are weeping and there's oil on the other side.. I'll replace the turbos and lines, valve cover, intake manifold, (probably) injectors, and clean the cylinder head. I'm comcerned because of the disassembly required to get to turbos and lines. They say ita easoer to pull the engine (drop the subframe), and then there's the risk of collateral damage; air conditioning system breeching, plastic fittings breaking, stiff hoses, etc. At that point I might replace the vacuum system components and every line or fitting I touch. Why am I doing all this? Because I like it and really, it's been super reliable overall. I have zero complaints, but I do wish it had adaptive cruise, HBA and a HUD, though.

[Best4x4xFAR]

I'm around 145K miles, and having similar feelings about trying to extend it's life to 300K miles or possibly beyond. I just completed a bunch of maintenance items myself, but have a long list of remaining items and a small budget from the CFO who isn't convinced spending money on a 13 year old car is a good decision.

Honestly this one is already too electronic/sensor filled for my taste, but it seems I love it anyway. New cars are just a no go for me, every year the connected nature/surveillance/nanny limitations just get worse..

[josiahg52]

I hear you. I'm buying a new 4Runner and already have researched and purchased the DCM bypass harness, won't create a Toyota account, or register for Connected Services.

I like my X5, if I sold it, it wouldn't be for much. If I trade it in, I'll get crap for it. Either way, it goes somewhere or to someone and I'll miss it and be sad after the time, effort, and experience. Its a waste of money in that regard, but I want to keep it.

[josiahg52]

All work is done. Tensioner bolt was a pain, but I got it. Everything went smoothly otherwise. It runs like a new vehicle. I mean, the suspension work absolutely made a difference, but there was something missing. All new drivetrain mounts, maybe the harmonic balancer, both, made a huge difference. Super smooth, feel like a new vehicle. Feels peppier, too.

[josiahg52]

I took the X5 out yesterday afternoon for a drive and ended up putting almost 80 miles on it. It is so smooth and quiet. I'm happy to report that after replacing the thermostats, operating temperature and behavior is practically identical and I haven't noticed a magical difference or faster warmups. It's warmer out than the dead of winter a few months ago when I was looking closely, but 80C is reached about a mile sooner (ambient ~20C compared to ~-15C). It plateaus around 87C instead of 83C or was it mid 80s? Anyway, the point is even with a new coolant thermostat, it doesn't automatically run at 89C even in warm weather, and is largely dependent on engine load. This is the same behavior I've noticed for over ten years and 140k miles. It's normal.