KEF's 12V Source ID Confirmation for Detector Hardwire

[KEF]

OK, first my disclaimer:

I am not a professional mechanic, just a very hands on auto enthusiast – if you are not mechanically inclined, it is best to let somebody else tinker with your car.

What you do to your car is your business, under no circumstances do I assume any responsibility for anything that should go wrong in the process of you attempting to do any of this.
The use of this DIY is for reference only; I disclaim all LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT RESULT FROM ANY USE OF THE EXAMPLES, INSTRUCTIONS OR OTHER INFORMATION IN THIS DIY.

I own these photos and am sharing them with this X5 community at X5 world, I prefer these photos be kept in one place, that is – you are not permitted to post them on your site without my written consent.


So with that said I had some free time tonight and since I am going to hardwire my V1 once my kit comes in,
I figured I’d look into the source since I have not seen a source for switched 12V power yet on the forum.

Jjosjj got me thinking about this in this thread:

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e70-forum/...ector+hardwire


I started by looking in the manual for the section that details how to open the sunroof manually.
The manual makes it look as if there is a handle that will swing down from the windshield side of the center light console.
There isn’t – at least not on mine.

Pry down from the windshield side on both ends and it will pop put.
Turn it so the wires face you and this is what you will see:

(Note: This pic shows plug #2 partially pulled out)




There are five plug banks – I decided to test the 12V that jjoshj used as well as look for a switched source.
In my previous BMW, an E46 M3, the switched wire was green with a blue stripe – I did not see any such wire, so instead I tested the green wire with a white stripe.

To test this, you need your key, a voltmeter and some patients.
I set my meter to the 20V DC and set out to test with the key in an out of the ignition. One note about using a meter – DO NOT SHOVE YOUR NEEDLE PROBE INTO THE CONNECTION END OF THE PLUG.

If you do this you may open the pin up, loosening the connection and creating problems for yourself.
Instead, follow the wires into the plug and touch the metal connector that actually couples the wire to the plug.
For your ground, you want to use the torx fitting that couples the sun roof motor to the car.

I started with plug #4 from the left and measured the green wire with the white stripe which can be clearly seen in picture #1.
I could not get anything on of this pin – for whatever reason.

I then moved to plug #2 and hit the green/white wire and it did prove out as a switched source.
With the key in the on position (radio can be played, motor not running) you get 12V power, when the radio goes off, so does this wire.

I tested the brown/red wire in plug #2 as well, and as jjoshj pointed out, this wire is hot until the car fully powers down.
Meaning, after the key is out of the ignition this wire is still powered for a period of time until the car is fully shut down.

I will use the switched source when I do my hardwire.

So that’s it – I hope this helps some of you. When I do my V1 install – I will put together a proper DIY for this forum.

Cheers,
KEF