35d brakes and maintenance plan

[wickedwyrm]

Looking for a little insight.

I just bought a 2010 x5 35d CPO with 39k on it yesterday. I was looking through the history and noticed that the brakes had been replaced twice already! Is this typical or did the last driver just use the brakes alot? My last car was a CRV and we put 130k on it and I still haven't changed the brakes. Is the diesel just that heavy that it wears on the brakes that bad?

I'm wondering if I should by the maintenance plan, just so the brakes get replaced for free (if it's going to happen every 15k). I'm planning on towing with this thing also. I completely ignored the salesman on the maintenance plan, but now I'm thinking about getting it. It's my first BMW and I just don't want to get blindsides by crazy maintenance.
Thanks

[JCL]

The maintenance plan pricing is based on average repair frequency, but at dealer parts and labour rates. If you plan to use the dealer for all maintenance anyway, it might make sense for you. Or you could find a good independent shop that has competitive prices

Brake wear rate is primarily a function of driving style, not the vehicle

Towing won't have much impact on brake wear as you will have trailer brakes if towing anything significant

[BGM]

With the sheer weight of it the brakes do get worn quicker than most--especially if you do a lot of city driving, etc. I've had both the fronts and rears done at 15K miles and just had the fronts done again at 28K miles--and I baby mine. As JCL mentioned, driving style can impact it greatly. I elected to get the Maintenance Plan even though I used an Indy on my old '01--I'm hedging that I will need 2 fronts and 1 rear brake job during those 2 years. You did buy one with fairly high mileage so having the brakes done twice is to be expected I would think.

[ard]

I can do pads in my garage in 45 minutes, Pads and rotors in an hour.

So I do not fear owning a BMW "without a maintenance plan".... even if I had to pay an indy, I expect 1-2 brake jobs from 50-100k, and can get those (and the 3 oil changes and single coolant change) for well under what most dealers charge.

The added cost (or benefit to the dealer) is that owners with a BMW maintenance plan never cultivate a relationship with an indy.... their life during this period reminds me of the seal pups hoping to make it through the surf.... hopefully nothing that isnt covered by maintenance, bit otherwise they just pay the dealer what they say it must cost. Dealers love a captive owner.

[alexmish]

my front set lasted me (on previous 08 4.8) for 30K miles... 60% highway, 40% city. I now drive 80% hwy, expect them to last much longer.

[BGM]

My Indy said $1,450 for both fronts and backs. So, most likely I will break-even with most like having to do 2 fronts and 1 rear--everything after that is gravy if I happen to need anything more.

[blue dragon]

Originally Posted by ard

I can do pads in my garage in 45 minutes, Pads and rotors in an hour.

So I do not fear owning a BMW "without a maintenance plan".... even if I had to pay an indy, I expect 1-2 brake jobs from 50-100k, and can get those (and the 3 oil changes and single coolant change) for well under what most dealers charge.

The added cost (or benefit to the dealer) is that owners with a BMW maintenance plan never cultivate a relationship with an indy.... their life during this period reminds me of the seal pups hoping to make it through the surf.... hopefully nothing that isnt covered by maintenance, bit otherwise they just pay the dealer what they say it must cost. Dealers love a captive owner.

Its not that simple, I am used to doing the brakes on my cars, my e46 had a stoptech BBK front and rear which I installed myself. I would swap my fluid after every track season (Motul RBF 600) using a quick bleed system.

If you plan on doing a fluid change as well, on the E70, I think that the brake install procedure calls for bleeding the brakes as well, and you need the computer to activate the ABS to clear the lines of any air.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

If you plan on doing a fluid change as well, on the E70, I think that the brake install procedure calls for bleeding the brakes as well, and you need the computer to activate the ABS to clear the lines of any air.

You only need the computer to activate the ABS module if you get air in there. If you don't get air in, you can do it without.

I do agree that brake fluid should be changed every two years. Whereas I may be able to do pads in a short time, I wouldn't, as I prefer to inspect everything, replace rotors most of the time, clean the guide pins, etc. I take the opportunity of a brake job to look at everything else in the area. There may be occasions when only pads need replacing, but there are some (not necessarily ard) who consider that a brake job. It isn't.

[ard]

Originally Posted by blue dragon

Its not that simple, I am used to doing the brakes on my cars, my e46 had a stoptech BBK front and rear which I installed myself. I would swap my fluid after every track season (Motul RBF 600) using a quick bleed system.

If you plan on doing a fluid change as well, on the E70, I think that the brake install procedure calls for bleeding the brakes as well, and you need the computer to activate the ABS to clear the lines of any air.

I know. Although bringing up the complications of a brake fluid flush as a component of the 'brake job' seems to be confusing the issue unnecessarily....

As JCL points out, they are different things. So you do brakes - pads, rotors, whatever- totally independently of brake fluid.

I have stoptechs on the M5. And edibias/GT1 on a laptop to run the ABS actuator and a motive bleeder...and a Durametric app to do the same for the Porsche. Pretty easy, ESPECIALLY if you've not opened the brake system up. Once air gets into the ABS it is a M----F--- to get bled. Dont get me going on that. (And we use the same fluid. )

Finally, I would REALLY like to see how many dealers actually actuate the ABS when they do a maintenance fluid change on a client's car.... personally I've had a few say 'we only do that if there are issues with performance or pedal feel, otherwise it is just a passive fluid change with a pressure flusher.