Smog check LA area - help plz

[Foxx]

One of my cars is a 2001 E46, call me crazy but still my favorite of all. I'm having problems getting the smog check passed, the check engine stays on no matter what I do. Looking for someone who can help pass the smog check in LA/ Long Beach area. Thanks all.

[ard]

Have you tried to fix the issue that is tripping the CEL, or are you just praying to god, waving stuff around the interior, reinstalling the gas cap 10 times and whatnot?

California CARB runs stings with folks posting on forums, and guys that make a living smogging cars really do not want to get busted by 'some buddy's buddy said you could help me'

Really, the solution is to fix the car. I see prior to asking for a smog shop, the last post was 2 years ago. Maybe asking for help with fixing the car would be the plan?

[Foxx]

Originally Posted by ard

Have you tried to fix the issue that is tripping the CEL, or are you just praying to god, waving stuff around the interior, reinstalling the gas cap 10 times and whatnot?

California CARB runs stings with folks posting on forums, and guys that make a living smogging cars really do not want to get busted by 'some buddy's buddy said you could help me'

Really, the solution is to fix the car. I see prior to asking for a smog shop, the last post was 2 years ago. Maybe asking for help with fixing the car would be the plan?

I tried it all, but I have a lot of after market parts, CAI, chips, etc, that get in the way. But thank you for the priceless advice, I can't believe I haven't thought of fixing it...

[ard]

Originally Posted by Foxx

I tried it all, but I have a lot of after market parts, CAI, chips, etc, that get in the way. But thank you for the priceless advice, I can't believe I haven't thought of fixing it...

Ive got a HIGHLY modified 996TT and an E39M5..and have many friends with modified cars. Superchargers, meth injection, etc,etc. somehow I and they are able to keep these cars running with 'a lot of aftermarket parts' and keep the CELs off. (fuel trim errors, readiness codes, o2 sensor codes, cps.vanos, secondary air, etc, etc...)

No properly engineered, and installed aftermarket part will cause a CEL....youve failed to maintain the motor and now have an issue that is tripping a CEL.

But good luck with finding a shop to bribe and risk their livelihood.

[Foxx]

Originally Posted by ard

Ive got a HIGHLY modified 996TT and an E39M5..and have many friends with modified cars. Superchargers, meth injection, etc,etc. somehow I and they are able to keep these cars running with 'a lot of aftermarket parts' and keep the CELs off. (fuel trim errors, readiness codes, o2 sensor codes, cps.vanos, secondary air, etc, etc...)

No properly engineered, and installed aftermarket part will cause a CEL....youve failed to maintain the motor and now have an issue that is tripping a CEL.

But good luck with finding a shop to bribe and risk their livelihood.

Who said that's what I wanted, I asked for help with clearing the faults, not illegally pass the smog. You are very offensive for no reason, you need to relax.

[conedoctor]

Originally Posted by Foxx

Who said that's what I wanted, I asked for help with clearing the faults, not illegally pass the smog. You are very offensive for no reason, you need to relax.

I read it like that as well, it sounds like your looking for some "help" passing.

You only have two choices, make the parts work together clean or take the parts off.

[Penguin]

Originally Posted by Foxx

I asked for help with clearing the faults, not illegally pass the smog. You are very offensive for no reason, you need to relax.

So if you want help clearing the codes, what are the codes you are getting?

[Penguin]

FYI, in case you don't know, clearing the codes will generally not allow you to pass the smog check due to the readiness flags in the Emissions control/OBD=II firmware/software.

MONITOR READINESS STATUS

Readiness flags are indicators on a scan tool or code reader that tell you when an OBD II system monitor has run or completed its test. A scan tool may say "ready" or "Complete" next to a listed monitor if it has run, or "not ready" or "incomplete" if it has not run. Others display a little flag or dot to indicate when a monitor has run.
If all the OBD II monitors have run, the OBD II system is ready. Ready for what? Ready for an OBD II emissions test or an I/M 240 or ASM loaded mode emissions test.
The emission test rules require that OBD II run most or all of its self checks BEFORE a vehicle is tested.
Why? So people don't use a scan tool or code reader to clear codes just before the test so they can pass the test.
If all the monitors have run and are ready, it guarantees an honest and accurate emissions test. And if all the monitors have run and are ready -- and OBD II has NOT found any faults, the MIL lamp is OFF and there are NO CODES in memory -- it means the vehicle should be in emissions compliance and pass any type of test it is given (OBD II, I/M 240 or ASM).
For 1996 through 2000 model year vehicles, the EPA emissions test rules allow up to two (2) readiness monitors NOT to be set when the vehicle is tested. Why? Because many vehicles require quite a bit of driving before all the monitors will run and be ready.
A short trip to an emissions test center may not involve enough driving or the right driving conditions to set the catalyst monitor and/or EVAP monitor (which are the two hardest monitors to complete because they require specific operating conditions before they will run).
On 2001 and up model year vehicles, all monitors must be ready before the vehicle can be given an OBD II test (rules may vary somewhat from one state to another). Exceptions may also be made for certain vehicles that have known readiness issues.

[ard]

Originally Posted by A B Able Truck

** You do have an air filter **
That's what Penguin was telling you - Your CAI (probably a K&N) could be causing your problem. When you service your CAI you coat the filter with a spray (oil) that attracts dirt. That oil may make it's way to your MAF and coat the sensor over time. IMO - The K&Ns and alike are not worth the time or money.

despite my posts, I am glad the OP is getting some assistance.

Agree with these comments- DO keep in mind that not all MAF sensor contamination can be cleaned: over time, the heat at the sensor film can lead to oxidization of the contamination layer- so while you can use CRC cleaner to get residue off, the crusty oxide remains. HOWEVER, if it improves with a cleaning that points you in the correct direction.

If you go to any of the large online auto parts places (rockauto, pelican, autohauz, etc, etc) you should be able to find a maf sensor (NOT the whole housing) for under 100. A pliers and screwdriver. (This is my guess, never worked on that model) 15 minutes..

It would be MOST helpful to hear the other two codes......