Can't Get Valve Cover Off - Help

[golf4dj]

I have the common valve cover oil leak and the oil filter housing leak on my 2008 X5 3.0si model with right at 100K miles.


Found a couple of excellent videos to follow for the repairs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdtnG1kqtjo and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IORc...sparent#t=1028


Unfortunately, the videos are from an X3 with the same engine. After following the videos I am having trouble getting enough clearance in the rear of the engine bay to lift the valve cover out. I removed the strut tower brace and the cabin filter housing and most of the other plastic stuff around it. I have tried to attach a photo of what I have removed and what still remains.


I saw one video of where someone removed the AC lines on his e70 3.0si to get the cover out. I am hoping there is another option as I don't have the tools to do that.


Anyone with experience with some advice where I should proceed from here and what else I need to do to get the clearance needed to complete this job.

Thanks in advance,
DJ

[bawareca]

I've done it on a 2009 3.0.It is not easy,but doable.You have to maneuver it it a bit and it goes out.

[golf4dj]

Originally Posted by bawareca

I've done it on a 2009 3.0.It is not easy,but doable.You have to maneuver it it a bit and it goes out.

Thanks for the reply - did you have to remove the AC lines or anything more than I have done to this point?

I tried for about 2 hours attempting to maneuver every possible way I could imagine with no success.

[bawareca]

I dont think I have removed the AC lines,but it was long ago anyway.Maybe someone with a fresh memory will chime in.

[golf4dj]

Well I was able to get the cover off using more pressure than I should have. I ended up breaking off one of the two plastic breather parts. The pictures show the inside of the valve cover with the plastic breather sitting in place and then removed and in my hand.

I know the DIY videos I watched warned that these can break off and to not leave them unattached in engine compartment as it would cause a bad vacuum problem. One of the videos suggested it was OK to super glue it back on. I am going to give that a shot as it seems like it would work OK. I will clean everything up tomorrow and glue it together.

I am worried about getting the cover back on though.

[bawareca]

Good cleaning and Crazy glue will do the job.

[SmartSolution]

I have this same diy to do on my 07 3.0si and I've watched the X3 video a bunch of times too. Glad you were able to get it out. I have just ordered a whole new valve cover from ECSTUNING. What I first thought was an eccentric shaft sensor leak turned out to be a crack on the cable cover itself.

Do the strut brace bars really have to come out? I thought I could have enough clearance to remove it from viewing it.

Originally Posted by golf4dj

Well I was able to get the cover off using more pressure than I should have. I ended up breaking off one of the two plastic breather parts. The pictures show the inside of the valve cover with the plastic breather sitting in place and then removed and in my hand.



I know the DIY videos I watched warned that these can break off and to not leave them unattached in engine compartment as it would cause a bad vacuum problem. One of the videos suggested it was OK to super glue it back on. I am going to give that a shot as it seems like it would work OK. I will clean everything up tomorrow and glue it together.



I am worried about getting the cover back on though.

[golf4dj]

On you question about removing the strut bar. I think it has to come off to have enough clearance. I was surprised at how high the valve cover has to be raised to clear everything underneath it. Regardless, the strut bar was probably one of the easiest pieces to remove (2 bolts if I remember right) and you will appreciate the fact that it is out of the way. You'll have enough stuff to contend with in there. Just take it off would be my advice.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[golf4dj]

OK, follow-up post. I was able to put everything back together yesterday with no real problems following the DIY video linked in the first post and reversing the order that I took things apart. Everything works great and job is done!!!!!


Couple of notes that may help others. The DIY videos from the X3 are great but there is a couple nuances with our X5 3.0si.

1. There is a metal bracket on the back rear portion of the valve cover (circled in first picture on this post) that serves no other purpose than to attach the decorative cover on top of the engine. I did not realize it but I bent this bracket inwards at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch when removing the valve cover to clear a couple AC lines. I did not realize that I had bent bracket until I tried to attach the decorate engine cover and it would not fit before bending it back into place. Anyway, the bracket appears to be attached to the valve cover with 2 torx screws. Removing this bracket would allow the valve cover to come off with relative ease. It will be very difficult to see and remove these screws but I believe very worthwhile. I spent over 3 hours just trying to get the valve cover off before pulling like heck and bending that bracket. Others have likely seen a video where someone actually removed the AC lines to get the cover off on their X5. I don't have equipment to bleed the AC system so that was not a desirable option. I am pretty sure that removing the bracket would solve the problem.

2. I also removed the plastic cover that was protecting the 2 flexible electrical conduits (second picture in this post). This allowed me even more room.

3. Most of the bolts have a pressed fitting that slides into the valve cover. Most are the same shape and size with the exception of two bolts (back left corner of valve cover and front right corner of valve cover if I remember right). The individual from the DIY video in the first post indicates that these can be removed completely from the valve cover during removal (they can and I did). The problem is lining the bolts back up and seating them within the valve cover if the valve cover is in its place (not much room, difficult to see and get leverage). I could not get the back left corner bolt to seat into place and had to remove the valve cover again and set those bolts before re-positioning the valve cover. If you remove all the bolts during removal I would recommend that you re-seat the ones in the hard to reach places before setting the valve cover back on.

4. I would recommend investing in a 1/4 torque wrench. Hard to believe how light the torque setting of 6NM (53 inch lbs?) really is. I read where several individuals broke the bolts and I can see why. Harbor Freight may be your friend here as places like HD, Lowes and the Auto Parts Stores don't really stock these and if they do they run around $60 - $70 on the low end. I purchased one from Harbor Freight for $15 on sale.

Final thoughts. The Oil Filter Housing gasket repair was quite simple and easy following the DIY video from same guy linked above (took me about 1 1/2 hours). The valve cover gasket replacement while not very difficult requires a lot of patience and perseverance. I spent the better part of a day and a half getting it all done with at least half of that associated with things I got stuck on. An Independent quoted me just over $1100 to replace valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and the oil filter housing gasket. I would do it again if I had to thinking it would only take about 3 - 5 hours. Hopefully this thread will help others.

DJ

[SmartSolution]

I'm hoping to tackle this job this Sunday. Can the spark plug metal tubes be reused or do they have to be replaced with new ones?