power for sunvisor lcd monitor

nigwhyrito · #1 05-07-2013, 08:33 PM

So I searched these terms - sunvisor lcd and sunvisor monitor. Could not find what I need.

Question: can anyone reccomend a good place to tap into the 12v switched, 12v constant and a good ground for a sunvisor monitor (preferrably up front). This is only for the right hand side.

USA vehicle. E53 2006 3.0
thanks in advance.

Need to feed it some power.

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TerminatorX5 · #2 05-08-2013, 08:48 AM

what are the power requirements for the monitor maxed out? there is a switched power for the garage door opener in the overhead console, along with bare metal screws that can be used for grounding point... not so sure about constant 12V source in that area... but, you can load only so much onto the UGDO circuit without causing undesired side effects...

TerminatorX5 · #3 05-08-2013, 08:53 AM

I see you retrofitted the rear heated seats... nice... I don't need it but was there a write-up that you followed? it might be beneficial for some members here to have a link to that write-up...

Factory TV module - on your wish list... You know that the digital portion of the hybrid TV modules will not work in the US - we use some "other" digital standard, than the rest of the world... I know, I have it... I keep it because sometime my cars end up overseas...

you might not need it - on the other hand, the factory TV module gives you rear camera input and the AV input into the factory sound system - so, you might need it...

nigwhyrito · #4 05-08-2013, 05:23 PM

Hello terminator, guide for the rear seat hmm. If i remember correctly I used the WDS site and I didnt really have a guide. i just followed the schematic. well sort of. I wrote the guide / build log on the website. I think it was called the start of 2 mods. i had did the rear heated seats and the lights on the rear seat. As for the power requirements its a cheap ebay lcd it says (9v-35v) I know crazy right. Name- pillow tft lcd color monitor. I need to edit my wish list just bought the tv module off ebay -"You know that the digital portion of the hybrid TV modules will not work in the US "
I just want it for the inputs av1 and backup cam. I have tracvision satelite tv in my x5. (basicaly I have mobile directtv reciever in my x5 ) so i use that for actual tv.
Im still on a search for a bm53 then i can finish the nav retrofit with dsp. Thats been sitting in my closet . the lcd will have tv on input 1 and wd movie player on input 2.

not so sure about constant 12V source in that area... but, you can load only so much onto the UGDO circuit without causing undesired " im verify it gds website i guess.

Lowblock · #5 05-09-2013, 12:41 AM

twist 14g red, black, yellow wires together, run across the front of the headliner to DS pillar, remove pillar, run down to kick area, remove steering column cover, tap into the wires at the ign switch. Ground somewhere in the kick area, don't forget to fuse.....

TerminatorX5 · #6 05-09-2013, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowblock

twist 14g red, black, yellow wires together, run across the front of the headliner to DS pillar, remove pillar, run down to kick area, remove steering column cover, tap into the wires at the ign switch. Ground somewhere in the kick area, don't forget to fuse.....

in this case, it would be easier to run wires on the right side A pillar to the fuse box and connect to a fused ignition and constant power contacts... and there is also a grounding block that takes a "blade" type crimp on connector - i need to look in my old files to see part number for grounding blade connector.

Lowblock · #7 05-09-2013, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

in this case, it would be easier to run wires on the right side A pillar to the fuse box and connect to a fused ignition and constant power contacts... and there is also a grounding block that takes a "blade" type crimp on connector - i need to look in my old files to see part number for grounding blade connector.

Yeah, I realize this, however in my experience its easier just to run to the switch, that way you know you will have the current required for the appliance, as long as its fused properly of course. I like to solder all my connections as well.

TerminatorX5 · #8 05-09-2013, 01:35 AM

Fuse F10 is fed directly from S2 (ignition switch) and feeds into horn relay connector at 15A. F25 is constant on, feeds the cigarette lighters, 25A... both fuses are in glove compartment

nigwhyrito · #9 05-09-2013, 11:40 AM

thanks for the advice.. so tie into fuse f10 for switched,
fuse f25 for 12 v constant
ground- blade type connector you are looking for.
sounds easy enough.. now to find the dissambly articles i need to get to the fuse box and take the apilliar down correctly.
do you reccomend fuse taps or direct wire. Im curious if i use a fuse tap will the fuse door still close. Ill check that out today.

TerminatorX5 · #10 05-09-2013, 12:02 PM

to take down A pillar, you need a torx bit (don't remember the size, but it is the same used through the rest of the interior), flat screwdriver, pop the HPS plastic cover on the A pillar cover, unscrew the torx bolt, pry with your fingers the panel off, be gentle but firm, keep an eye on the overhead airbag when you will run wires along the pillar - make sure that your wires do not obstruct potential deployment of the airbag.

F10 and F25 are far enough from each other, so you can use that thingie they sell on ebay, has a blade that goes into the original fuse location, and the thingie has spot for two fuses and a wire... (something like this - New Add A Circuit ATM Low Profile Blade Style Fuse Holder Ja | eBay)

at least, this one is good for testing, and if it works to your satisfation, you can permanently wire it from behind the main fuse holder, or leave as it is, the wiretap will already be fused.

I did not have a chance to look up the ground blade connector yet...

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