Let me see if I can get you off of there.

It seems to make sense that the processing that the DSP provides falls into three categories:

1) Tuning of the system to match the acoustics of the interior. OK there.

2) Tuning of the system to match the performance characteristics of the drivers. Oh, you're changing the drivers to better-performing ones? This processing is now inappropriate.

3) Wack special effects stuff ("room", "echo") that no one should use unless you are listening to classical music and want to mimic being in your high schools' gymnasium.

The 360 would reverse #1 and #2 for the settings that it is programmed for. No one benefits from #3, and the 360 would probably eff that all up.

So why would you use this again?

If you like the idea of vehicle-specific processing, use Zapco DC series amps and get DSPwith 10-band parametric EQ, time correction per channel, and digital active filters. A DC 360 or 1000 and a DC500 should do incredibly well.

Ok, I am not pressed about the "function" of the DSP, I do however want to use the amp to power the speakers in the dash.

I have two additional amps that I would like to add to the system. I would like to tap the speaker level inputs from the head unit and convert them to RCA level. So, if that means I am goind to 86 the DSP, then its gone. If I can't use the amp to run the speakers in the dash, then I will find another work around.

I agree with everything that has been said to date. The DSP system blows and I don't use it. I don't want to give up the way the rest of the system functions. Volume controls or station display.

I understand what your trying to do. You want to add and amp for the mids in the door and tweeters while using the factory amp to power the dash speakers. You can do this but its pointless. All you will be doing is sending unwanted low freq's to the door speakers.Your tweeters are the only thing that you will notice.

The problem with dsp is......

1. All the crossover functions are inside the amp, meaning if you use high level outputs the new amp is going to be restricted to the crossover freq's of the dsp amp.

2. If you want fullrange to your aftermarket amp you NEED to remove the dsp amp completely.

I went through the same thing as you. It will not work.

The only really options you have are to keep the factory amp, use highlevels for the front(6channels) and/or rear(4channels) and sub(2channels)
Or you can remove the dsp amp and get a good electronic 3way crossover and 6 channels of amp for the fronts.Something suitable would be a 4channel amp for the door/dash speakers and a smaller 2 channel for the tweeters.
You can use you other amp for the sub/s.

Now if you do this you will have no rear speakers. If you want them you will need another amp.
The dsp system is a pain in the ass to upgrade. Pain in the ass means expensive.
Most people will swap speakers and/or add an aftermarket amp and sub.(Amp for sub only)

Again I know what you're trying to do and its just not possible.