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Pioneer AVIC Z1...installed
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I finally got around to installing this headunit. I have only had it installed for a week now and am still getting use to it. This was by far one of the most detailed (not complicated) installs I have ever done. Besides the headunit I also installed the iPod connector and XM radio with nav traffic. I plan on adding a backup camera also. I actually purchased the pioneer camera, ND-BC1, but decided not to install it because it looks to bulky for me.
For those of you interested in installing a unit like this I would suggest to you that this will require a lot of work. You need to be comfortable with car electronics and you need to be comfortable with disassembling parts of the X5. Okay, enough talk, how about some pictures! Here is the AVIC-Z1. It has a 30GB hard drive (20GB used by navigation though), 7 inch screen, plays DVD movies but not DVD mp3, includes microphone for voice recognition and is iPod and XM-Sirius ready. Attachment 11281 Here is the iPod, iPod connector, and XM unit. I decided not to use the camera. Attachment 11290 Okay this player has a ton of features. I am not going to even try to cover them here. You are better off going to Pioneer's website and check it out there. What I do want to focus on is the X5 specific issues I ran into when installing. My factory system is the Business CD with the MID and DSP. For those that don't know the DSP amp will not turn on unless both the CD and MID are connected. The best solution is to bypass the whole system. The first step is removing the CD and MID. Attachment 11289 Attachment 11286 Attachment 11288 To get the double din unit installed you will have to make a permanent modification to your dash. I used a hack saw to cut the radio bracket as it cut smoothly and left very few plastic chips. Attachment 11279 Attachment 11280 The Z1 is a perfect fit vertically and has a little bit of space horizontally. Attachment 11282 All I need now is a bezel! Attachment 11283 Here is the iPod unit. It was small enough to fit into the dash. Attachment 11284 I removed the glove box and put the XM unit behind the glove box. This may turn out to be a bad placement as the XM unit has a reset button. I'll have to remove the glove box if the XM requires a reset. I also routed the ipod cable (white wire in this picture) into the glove box. That is where the ipod will be. Attachment 11285 I decided to run speaker wire for all 4 channels from the head unit to the rear. I used wiretaps to tap into the speaker wires. I wired up the midranges on the dash with the tweeters in the door. The X5 speakers are 8 ohm. I wired them in parallel style to drop the ohm to 4. The Z1 can handle 4 to 8 ohms. I then decided to wire the front woofers and rear woofers together. Why? Because I wanted more bass response and I never use the fader. The result is...um... acceptable. The factory speakers are just plain awful when connected to an aftermarket headunit however I would say the quality is about the same as the factory (minus the subwoofer as that is not connected). This is all a temporary setup as I plan on getting an amp to power the speakers and a subwoofer to give me back the lows. I will also upgrade the speakers. My budget won't allow me to do this until next year. If you are in a situation like myself where you can't do everything at once then I highly recommend direct connect to the factory speakers. Just turn the highs down as the tweeters are terrible! I installed the XM antenna and the navigation antenna in the rear brake light cover. I haven't had any reception issues. |
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Here are the wiretaps.
Attachment 11291 Do not buy the Pioneer double din kit as it doesn't fit the X5. Attachment 11292 Attachment 11293 Here is a screen shot of the ipod interface. Attachment 11294 |
The pioneer units are the way to go for aftermarket Nav systems.
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you are truly my motivation! and to think, I was gonna pay off some debt before venturing down this road; to hell with that :thumbup: I'm all on it now:
AVIC-Z1 Ducatiboy Bypass Ipod Interface Bluetooth Module PACS Steering Wheel Controls XM/NAVTRAFFIC Unit iLink iPod Connection (For Video & 3rd party GUI) Rear View Camera (w/ Night Vision) Front View Camera (w/ Night Vision) ["Look Ma, no headlights!"] Directed Electronics Video Switcher 7" Headrest Monitors DLS-UP6's in front and rear JL-Audio Stealthbox Zapco Reference 360.4 Zapco Reference 350.2 Let the Games begin!!!!!!! :drool: Kryptonite |
X5-RWK - I like Pioneer too! I have only purchased their units since I was a teenager.
Kryptonite - That is one heck of a list. I want the front and rear cameras also. I prefer to have a split screen to show them both at the same time however that video switcher you mentioned may be a good option. I'll have to check it out. One other thing to watch out for with the Z1. The Z1 does not have a negative tilt feature like the Exclipse units. The owner's manual says do not installed the unit beyond 30 degrees vertically. In the X5 our dash opening looks to be 40 to 45 degrees. In the daytime my screen colors wash out a little because of the angle. The night time screen is perfect. |
I've had my eye on the Z1 for a while, and this thread may be just the incentive i need.
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I like that the IPod adaptor fits behind the HU. Aside from behind the glovebox, where else might you put the XM unit? I'm also planning on adding Bluetooth. Any idea on the size of that unit and where it could go? I already have an XM Direct unit (http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/...oductDetail.do ) that I use connected to my CD changer with the BlitzSafe adaptor. Any chance I'll be able to use the same unit (with a different adaptor) or do I need to buy a new XM module? I have a non-DSP system. Can I hook up the Z1 to the existing amp as opposed to wiring to the speakers directly? If so, will all the connections be up front - or will I have any hookups in the CD-Changer area? I guess I'll need to run the Satellite and Navigation antennas to the back - but that shouldn't be much different than when I ran the Ice Link Cable from the changer to my ash tray, correct? Sorry for all the questions - there will likely be more to come - but I really want to try to do this myself, if at all possible. TIA, Mike |
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I don't have this option as I don't have a bluetooth phone.:mad: But I have read that the unit is very small. It will probably fit in the dash. I also read that this unit does not require all the wiring like the other ones. All you have to do is connect it to the Z1 and you are done. You should be able to get the dimensions from the Pioneer website. Quote:
I wasn't able to follow that link. You will need a Pioneer XM module as Pioneer communicates with the units through the IP-BUS. Quote:
Because you have the non-DSP amp you have a lot less headache than I had to deal with. You can connect directly with the non-DSP amp.:thumbup: Also all four channels are wired to the factory radio harness. So all you have to do is wire your Z1 to an aftermarket harness and you are all set. Quote:
That is correct. I put both of mine in the rear brake light cover. I ended running each wire on opposite sides of the vehicle because the Pioneer manual said to run XM separate from other wires to minimize interference . Quote:
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You will also need to tap 3 wires, VSS, Reverse, and Parking brake. I tapped the VSS and parking brake wires at the cluster. Use an allen wrench to remove the two screws holding it in place and then slowly pull it out. You will need to leave the X powered because you will have to drop the steering wheel to get to it. Here is a write-up on how to remove it - http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/i...t-cluster.html.
You can also find these wires in the online WDS. My cluster has 3 connectors on the back. Two are toward the passenger side and one is toward the driver's side. The VSS wire comes off the top connector on the passenger side. It is a black-white wire. I tapped into it with the pink\lavendar wire here. Attachment 11376 Although you can tap the parking brake wire from the traditional place, I decided to tap it here because I was already in here. The parking brake wire is on the connector that is on the driver's side. It is one of the few wires that have 3 colors. It is blue-brown with yellow tick marks. Attachment 11374 The reverse wire will require some work as directly connecting to one of them is not a good idea. The problem is that the power is sent out in pulses instead of a steady stream. The Z1 allows you to monitor the connection. When I put the X in reverse and monitor the status it changes from High to Low (Back Signal on Z1). It should always be High. To make it work correctly you need to get a relay http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...ighlight=relay. Attachment 11375 I put the iPod in the glove box. I ran the cable through the hole where the strut is located. This has to be done with the glove box disassembled because you will have to remove the strut to get the ipod connector through the hole! Attachment 11372 Attachment 11373 Oh by the way make sure you get an aftermarket radio harness that has all the wires. I got mine from a local auto shop but I think you can get it online. It has every wire, even ones that are not used. This one is much better than the one I got from Crutchfield (which I sent back). Try looking for it on BestKits.com, BHA9003. Attachment 11371 |
Thanks for all the info. I was encouraged after your first response - I'm a bit nervous after the second. Not sure how I feel about removing the cluster and tapping the wires.
As warned, a few more questions. Are you planning on doing anything with your MID? I've read that some people try to re-locate it to retain control over functions like setting the clock, trip settings, etc. Not sure this is a big deal to me, but I'm not sure I like the idea of not being able to set the clock, mpg, etc. What about steering wheel controls? Do you know how involved the interface install is? If I go with the Z1, I'll likely use this bezel http://www.mybimmer.net/x5doubledintrim.htm I'm not clear how the Z1 and or the bezel are secured inside the new opening. Thanks again, Mike |
The Bluetooth module is acutally 1/4 the size of the iPod module (half the width, and half the height) and has 1 cable to connect to the Avic.
This information is great! I've been stock piling all these parts and may have the guts to try and install everything now :) Was wondering if and where you installed the mic?? Read a lot of complaints about the positioning and sound of the factory mic, and was wondering where the best location for the pioneer mic might be. Also, can you be more specific on where you installed the NAV antenna ("rear brake light cover"), ie, actually in the center or side rear brake light assemblies or under the rear wing on the roof (or whatever its called) ?? Thanks! -Ray |
And the most important question of all is:
Where to get the best looking bezel for the best price... NextGen, Made any head-way on this? Also, what's your release date on the Z1 you installed? Krptonite |
Looks awesome so far!
Are you getting the bezel from mybimmer.net? Please post pics as soon as possible after you install the bezel. :) |
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mandream...
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rlouis...
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As promised here are pictures on the antenna installs.
This first one is the XM antenna. Warning, it was a pain to get this boot back on. You can't see it in these pictures but I cut the boot a little to get the wire through. Attachment 11398 The second one is the navigation antenna with the metal sheet. Attachment 11397 I couldn't figure out how to route this through the boot and into the car so I cut the boot and routed the wire with the molding. You may have better luck getting it through the boot as I ran out of patience. Attachment 11399 Attachment 11395 I sealed the boot up with liquid tap. Attachment 11396 |
Alright,
As a trade off for all this install info, I'll start making a bezel this weekend. I do a lot of model scratch building, and have plastics, rubbers, resins, etc. so hopefully will get the shape I want (which follows the contours of the dash a little better with the horizontal split effect) and hopefully I'll be able to cast it when finished. I'm hoping for this look: http://conrailray.com/bmwx5/x5_dash_v2.jpg -Ray |
Awesome :thumbup: Can't wait to hear how it goes. I definitely think the wood grain and horizontal split would be a great improvement.
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andaya - that is not a bad bezel. I would like to see a better closeup with the trim ring on.
Kryptonite - I haven't needed to bypass anything yet. The features that I need to access while driving are readily available to me. I don't watch DVD movies when driving. But I'll keep you in mind if the issue ever comes up! rlouis - that is the look that I plan for my bezel. I know that some of the aftermarket companies that make wood dash kits will do custom cuts for you. So all we need is a good bezel to start with. Good luck with your bezel and if you plan on offering them for sale make the price reasonable!:thumbup: |
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andaya that looks really nice. At first I thought you were showing us pictures of someone else's setup but it looks like you are taking pictures of your own X. Are you holding back on us?:confused: How did you mount it? Where did you put the microphone? Where can we get that bezel?
I have come up with a way to mount mine and will post pictures of how I did it later today or tomorrow. |
x5
This is where I mount my mic,I'll posting my own X5.Let me know if I can help.the mic are pretty clean look and the reception are clear.
I still have some new blueetooth adaptor for sale let me guys if your buying one I can give you a good deal.For the bezel my body man ismaking this out of resin and molded it.He's charging at $180 for the piece icluding the base and Avic holder.http://xoutpost.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/4/Picture168.jpg http://xoutpost.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/4/Picture165.jpg http://xoutpost.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/4/Picture169.jpg |
Alright I added the BSW sub box and amp, put the GPS antenna up above the center brake light, and wired in the Z1 unit (well most of it.)
A few questions... 1) I need to do the reverse relay trick. Is there a tap up in the front of the car somewhere, or just stick with the tap by the spare tire? 2) I have the PAC SWI-PS sitting here. It says to hook up its yellow wire to the white/red/yellow-dots or white/grey/yellow-dots wire in the steering column. Cut wire in half and connect the INTERFACE's Yellow wire to key side wire. Insulate remaining cut wire. Question is, can't I just connect this to the IBUS wire at the radio harness (white/grey/green)? It seems we might loose some functionality on the steering wheel (ie fan, cruise control -unless they are on a different bus) if we disconnect the wire at the steering column. And if I have to go to the steering column, any dissasembly notes posted? 3) Finally, I need to run all these wires down the drivers side of the car (2 RCAs for sub, reverse video RCA, reverse direction tap, etc). Whats the easiest path? I believe I saw some pics of this posted somewhere on here, but can't find it now (under the back seat along the drivers side center console, etc). Also any notes or dissasembly procedures would be greatly appreciated with this as well! Thanks! -Ray |
Andaya,
Does your man have a relase date for his bezels or is it a "pay n make" situation? |
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Attachment 11441 2. You do not have to cut any wires, you can just splice into them. You can't connect directly to the IBUS as the SWI-PS would not understand the information being sent to it. I haven't tried to disassemble the steering wheel. You will need to search the website for that info. I am leaning towards purchasing the Z1 remote because it has more commands. I've read on AVIC411 where people have both. 3. The best path is to run the wire under the center console and under the carpet. Basically follow the wires that BMW already have there. Here is a link on working the wire under the carpet http://www.xoutpost.com/bavarian-soun...ht=route+wires. |
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I have mounted the radio and the mic.
I put the mic on the driver's pillar. It seems to be working well from this spot. I tested it on the Z1 and it understood my commands perfectly. I like the mic here because I was able to completely hide the wire. Attachment 11442 I decided a trip to Home Depot was in order to see if I could find something to mount this radio. I came up with something called "Roof Truss Clip" (1st one in the picture) and another called "A angle". Basically they are L-shaped metal fasteners. They are for home construction and made of steel, so they are very strong. You want to be careful handling them as they are sharp and sometimes have metal burrs on them. I sanded mine down before working with them. Attachment 11443 I also purchased a flat head screw instead of using the round head that Pioneer supplied. The Pioneer screw is 6mm in length wereas the flat head is 10mm. I wanted a slightly longer screw because it appears that the metal fasteners would move the screw out a little bit. Attachment 11444 The screws are larger than the holes in the metal fasteners so you will need to work at making the holes larger. Attachment 11445 Since I am trying to avoid any more permanent mods to the X I can only install one fastener on the top as there is not enough width for two. Attachment 11446 I will use these to secure the radio. Attachment 11447 Attachment 11448 It was a little work to get the togglebolts lined up and tighten. Also note that when it is time to remove the radio you will have to unscrew the lower bolts completely. I can get my hand back there (after removing the climate control) and catch the L-piece as it falls (actually I can hold on to the L-piece). It is made of metal so you can also use a magnet to hold it as you unscrew it or to retrieve it if you drop it. Attachment 11449 In the end I am very satisified with this setup. The radio is secure and does not move. I found working with the metal fasteners to be a pain in the butt. If you can find plastic pieces use those instead. |
man
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you need to order and pay it so he can make or mold it for 4 days. |
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NextGen,
Where did you mount your reverse camera? And if you decide to move in that direction, where are you mounting the forward camera? |
Just some updates,
I built the mounts similiar to what NextGen did. Should be pretty secure and solid. I found that 10mm screws where a little too long for some holes, but also depends on how thick the brackets are that you use. The PAC module actually gets connected to the IBUS, however, you can't use the IBUS connection at the radio harness. The pac module changes channels every 7 seconds. Must be getting other conflicting data from other devices on the IBUS. This is why they want you to cut and connect it to IBUS right at the steering wheel column, which effectively makes the steering wheel a direct connection only to the PAC module. I have to find this tomorrow, but shouldn't be too difficult. I'm also going to reconnect the MID, maybe under the drivers seat? its only 5 wires, +12v, +12v acc, ground, light module, and IBUS. I happened to have had to jump start the X yesterday morning, and the display on the cluster wigged out. It went really dim and said something in German, you couldn't see the gear # and some of the guages were messed up. This seemed to clear when I plug the MID back in, unless it was just coincidence with some sort of reset timing... Oh I also mounted my mic right infront of the insturment cluster on the right side. You can slide the mic wire along with the insturment cluster when you putting it back so that just the mic pops out and sits there. Any for the wacky part, I have the Z1 connected to a sub amp via the RCA connections, and the rest of the speakers to the factory harness and amp. AM and FM work fine, but I don't get sound from DVDs, CDs, or MP3s on the hard drive. I do however hear the sub. Any suggestions? I messed with all the settings and couldn't get it to work. Will have to check the avic411 forum as well. Will get to that dang bezel and takes pics eventually! -Ray |
You have to sodder those wires man.
Nice job on the mounting and I like the cutout flip thing. If you know what your doing with plastics and stuff , you should be able to make the cuts look like factory. :thumbup: |
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Attachment 11525 I am holding off on the front camera for now. |
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That's not included shipping... |
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btw, I'm hoping to do the roundel install for the reverse camera. I just can't find a camera small enough in diameter that pleases my eye. Most of the ones I've seen have a pretty big metal lip on them, ie small camera size, large ugly metal lip. I took the camera out of its metal casing and it could be made much smaller, so I may try to build a smaller housing and keep it waterproof! Thanks! |
rlouis - your setup is different from mine as I have the dsp amp. I had to completely bypass the factory amp. I am glad you figured out the problem.
I saw a thread here on the roundel install. I liked it a lot. I would want to get another roundel as the test pig though. When you say you took the camera out of its metal casing are you talking about the Pioneer ND-BC1? |
????wtf????
Okay, so Im in Houston, and I go to a local car stereo installation place tha't pretty high in recognition for their work. I run down the list of the things I will need installed (being that I have/will have all of these parts myself):
AVIC-Z1 Ducatiboy Bypass Ipod Interface Bluetooth Module PACS Steering Wheel Controls XM/NAVTRAFFIC Unit iLink iPod Connection (For Video & 3rd party GUI) Rear View Camera (w/ Night Vision) Front View Camera (w/ Night Vision) ["Look Ma, no headlights!"] Directed Electronics Video Switcher 7" Headrest Monitors DLS-UP6's in front and rear JL-Audio Stealthbox Zapco Reference 360.4 Zapco Reference 350.2 The guy at the counter hits the calculator and comes up with a figure: $2990 Im thinking WTF? I mean, come on - im not asking for custom speaker pillars or some tricked out amp rack - you got to be BS'ing me with 3k for labor only. Did i have:loser: written on my face? So, i politely took his card and told him that I would get back to them. Afterwards (and while still in digust), i call another car shop (Mobile One), and they give me a price for under 1K, with a custom bezel for the unit and possibly a falso floor for the amps. The only thing they won't do is bypass the Z1 for full functionality in motion. What do yall think about this ... Kryptonite (Im also pushing this post to a seperate thread, so I won't still anyone's thread thunder...) |
did you need to wire up a special harness so you can use your factory speakers.
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For now I have directly connected my Z1 to the factory speakers by running speaker wire from the Z1 to the speaker wires that were connected to my DSP amp. Next year I plan to upgrade this setup and connect my Z1 to an amp and then the amp to the speaker wires. See the 2nd post in this thread for a picture of my wire taps. |
wow that is a very nice set up.
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Looks great and full iPod integration wow, not easy to find that in many aftermarket head units. I have the Eclipse AVN7000 and not having full iPod integration really sucks. I can only move forward and backwards in a playlist nothing more. Every time I want to switch a genre or playlist I have to unhook the iPod and manually reset is then plug it back in.
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I finally have some time to try and finish up stage 1 of my AVIC install. The next step is the steering wheel. As I mentioned earlier I don't want to cut the steering wheel wire so that something like PAC SWI-PS works properly. Instead I opted for the Z1 remote, the CD-SR1. I have to admit I felt this was a long shot as I don't like how it looks on the steering wheel and I was concerned that it would get in the way of normal driving.
One thing that is weird about this remote is that it has buttons on the front and the back. I can only guess that they did this to minimize the size of the remote while maximizing the number of buttons. Attachment 12069 After trying several different positions I ended with it on the side near the head unit. It works best on this side as the remote needs line of sight to communicate with the head unit. It is an infrared red remote. Attachment 12070 After a few days of using the remote here is what I think of it. Pros:
The 4-way buttons on the remote make it easy to navigate XM when in category mode. XM category mode places all the channels in a category. Pressing up or down on the 4-way cycles the categories while pressing left or right allows you to cycle the channels in the category. This is so convenient that I don't have any channels preset. Navigating iPod is easy for me because I just let the iPod randomly access all songs on it. If a song comes up that I don't want to hear I just click the track button and go to the next song. Also the remote allows you to access voice control. Earlier I mentioned that it would be nice to have a button that toggles navigation and AV source, well with the voice control button I can click it and say "AV Screen" or "Navigation Screen" and it will go there. I can also say "iPod", "XM", or any valid source that is hooked up. Before you get too excited about this feature there is an issue with how it works. 1.You press the button 2. You wait about 2-3 seconds for the system to beep 3. Now you tell it what to do I don't know why they put the wait in there. It should beep about 1 second after I press the button. With that said, when I am on a busy freeway it is nice to be able to keep my eyes on the road at all times and still be able to change the source. When I get bluetooth in stage 2 of my install then I will really be happy with keeping this remote instead of trying to integrate with the steering wheel. My last 2 steps is to properly hook up the reverse wire and get a bezel. Oh, I purchased the remote from Tweeter.com for $19.99. For some reason if you go to their website and search for it, the website won't find it, but google does! |
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I have attached the owner's manual for the CD-SR1. If you do decide to install it I recommend that you do not cut the straps as the instructions say to do. I found myself needing to readjust the location and it was much easier working with the full straps. I was able to tuck the straps out of the way without cutting them.
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Did you get a bezel yet?
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I don't have photshop but I did tinker a little in MS Paint. Attachment 12076 Attachment 12077 Attachment 12078 |
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I now have the relay installed. It works perfectly. The Z1 now knows when I am in reverse. To make the install easy I purchased the relay with a socket from PartsExpress.
12VDC Bosch Relay 30A, part number 330-070, $2.64 12VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket, part number 330-075, $1.75 It cost about $8 to ship them:mad: Attachment 12091 Here is a breakdown on the wire connections. The first number is the number on the socket. 85 Black - ground 86 White - power that energizes the relay - connect to car reverse wire 87 Yellow - hot when relay is energized - connect to pioneer purple wire 87a Red - hot when relay is not energized - not used (cover wire) 30 Blue - input power - connect to wire that is hot when car is running At first I was going to try and install the relay in the spare tire compartment since I needed to tap the reverse wire there. I changed my mind and decided to put it in the amp compartment. First I tapped the reverse wire. There are two reverse wires, I tapped the yellow-white one. Attachment 12092 I ran the wire tap into the amp compartment. Attachment 12093 Inside this compartment was a few screws near the brake lights (or whatever they are). I used one for the ground. I couldn't find a source for the input power so I tapped into the wire that used to power the amp. This wire is always hot even with the car off. I prefer a wire that is only hot when the car is running but in this case it is not a problem because the relay will not pull any juice since the Red wire is not connected to anything. If you decide to tap the amp wire be sure and remove fuse 72 (located where the sub-woofer is [or would be] located). |
i think the all wood looks great
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The final step in this audio upgrade is the bezel. I have basically 3 options, black plastic, wood, or dash material. You can get the plastic look from Rich for $250, http://www.mybimmer.net/. My only concern with this bezel is that it is vertically centered. If you look back at my pictures you can see that the Z1 is close to the opening bottom. Maybe Rich can adjust the bezel to fit this off center location.
Attachment 12468 I want the wood look. I agree with dr. jay that it looks the best. I'll have to get around to custom ordering it in the near future. So I ended up with material that is similar to the dash for now. Actually you can get any material you want, leather, vinyl, or whatever. I ended up getting some very inexpensive material that was similar to the dash (not quite a perfect match) to hold me over until I get the wood. Here are the materials I used: 1. Cardboard 2. Plastic grid plate 3. Black vinyl 4. Foam 5. Special foam glue 6. Velcro 7. Stapler 8. Very sharp scissors and other cutting tools Start by cutting the cardboad into rectangles so that they can fill the space between the radio and the sides. Attachment 12469 Attachment 12470 I purchased a Metro ABS Blank GridPlate, part #89-00-9030. This plate is 12" X 12" and is textured black on one side with a pre-cut grid on the other. It is very easy to cut this to almost any shape you want. Attachment 12471 Attachment 12472 I cut the shape I wanted and placed velcro on it. The grid is cut so that it holds in place with friction. I then cut the foam into the shape that I wanted. The foam is cut so that I can tuck the top of it into the dash. I purchased the foam from JoAnn's Fabric and it is 3mm thick (thanks to my wife for this as I had no clue) (the grid is on the top and the foam is on the bottom). Attachment 12473 The velcro has a sticky back but it does not stick well to the foam. So I use the stapler to help these stay in position. I also find that the foam glue works well for securing the velcro in place. The glue is made by the company that make liquid nails and is called "perfect glue 1". This glue is designed to work with foam. Attachment 12474 Now that the velcro is in place I then cut the vinyl material (purchased from JoAnn's Fabric also, again thanks to my wife) in the same shape as the foam and then glued the material to the foam. The final step is to assemble the pieces. First place the grid into the dash, velcro side up. Then place the foam\vinyl on top of it. Tuck the top into the dash. This picture does not show how it really looks. The material is very close to the dash in color and texture. Attachment 12475 Another option is to just use the grid for a bezel (no velcro and cut a full frame instead of the 3 sided frame pictured above). Attachment 12476 |
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These pictures show how the two parts come together.
Attachment 12477 Attachment 12478 This step up allows me to switch out to another material any time I want. |
NextGen,
Those materials look pretty nice. I'm going to have to order that textured gridplate. I still have some trimming to do of the lower pieces, but here's a few crappy pics of what I have so far: http://conrailray.com/bmwx5/x5dash2.jpg http://conrailray.com/bmwx5/x5dash1.jpg |
Wood! Nice!:thumbup: I wish you had the full frame for wood. That is my ultimate goal.
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Can you play DVD Video while driving with this unit? I heard that Pioneer has some sort of new technology that actually senses if the car is moving. I know most units can be bypassed though. Can this one be bypassed?
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The Wood looks awesome,if I only had the patience
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Nice Work NextGen. I noticed that comparing these two pictures it looks like you also cut out another horizontal piece at the top of the enclosure in addition to the middle horizontal plastic piece. Is that true or just a photo illusion? I am about to cut that piece out to get my radio to sit higher.
top horizontal bar with slot in it.. http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...1installed.jpg and looks like piece cut out so radio sits higher. http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...sinstalled.jpg Thanks |
Re: Pioneer AVIC Z1...installed
Just installed a pioneer avic Z110bt
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Re: Pioneer AVIC Z1...installed
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