What does this "We can hear the occupant over the speaker fine" mean? Does the radio get audio from the BT-receiverbox? Have you checked (with scope) if there is audio available all the time during the phone call i.e. is the other callers voice also there but the radio mutes it? Have you adjusted volume with wheel buttons during the call? If nothing else helps, it may be that the BT needs to be reprogrammed for the new audio configuration. I know that the DSP mutes after 40 seconds if it is programmed for non-navi system so maybe the BT does the same. The radio module is the same in all systems.

Sorry that I was unclear (I'm on cold meds).

It should have read "We can hear the occupant over the microphone, on the land line".

I thought that the radio module was the same too. I don't know for a fact that we tested the volume buttons after the mod.

OK, we have now re-wired the BT TelAudio(+), TelAudio(-), and TelON wires from the DSP amp over to the Tuner module. (The TelMUTE wire was already there and in the right place).

We also verified on bmwtechinfo.com what pincs the tel wires were suppsed to be in in the tuner module.

Nada. Zip. Big goose egg. No audio over the speakers. Mute works fine, other caller hears the mic just fine, but BT user gets no BT audio over the speaker.

Suggestions much appreciated.

First you should check if there actually is telephone audio available in TelAudio + and - wires i.e. connect those wires to an extra amp and listen. I'm not sure if TelAudio is a balanced signal but just in case use balanced-unbalanced converter. Where did you connect the Telephone ON signal?

The wiring diagram for a non-DSP signal shows all four wires (audio + and -, Mute, and ON) going into the tuner module.

The DSP wiring diagram shows them going into the DSP (as they did, with the Mute wire showing and testing in both places).

Se we lengthened the + and - and ON wires and inserted them into the correct pins on the tuner module, with the MUTE wire already being present (your pin info was confirmed in the non DSP wiring diagrams on bmwtechinfo.com)

But the tuner module is not passing ANY audio. I am confident it's getting the right signal. Even if it WERE a balanced audio thing, we'd at least get bad-sounding audio.

I've been told that BT installs on non-DSP cars have not required any re-coding.

We get the car back tomorrow AM and if I can't figure this out I have to re-install all those stepdowns and lose the SQ benefits of the straight balanced interface we did. Argh.

We will have a couple of days to work with it, as we are installing an Icelink and possibly a Passport SRX.

But you have not checked if the telephone audio actually is there? I'm just wondering if the BT mutes the audio signal for some reason i.e. it is waiting for the DSP-amp bus signal. So coding would fix this. Also, it may be that the radio still requires coding to actually activate the telephone input. There are weird stuff in this radio, for example the AUX-input appears only after you connect a 300Kohm resistor between input pins. That is if you use a DIY-solution, not the original BMW retrofit cable.

I should have said that we are confident it's getting the right AUDIO signal. I'm not convinced about the rest of it.

We are planning on taking the car in for re-coding Thursday afternoon or Friday. Our testing the first time was compromised in that we didn't have his phone, and we couldn't pair one of our phones because it wasn't accepting the PK on the Moroloa sticker on the BT sheet.

Resolution:

The output is a speaker level output that varies with the volume setting. The level is independent of audio level - when the system mutes for BT, the volume knob controls the BT volume, and after the call is over, the audio system returns to its former level. At least that partially explains why there's no global volume indication...

We tried using a PC speaker amp, but the best solution was a 4 ohm handsfree kit speaker. Plenty of output and sounded great. No wires needed to be run from the BT ULF module to the TUner module - just tap the two twisted blacks that go from the ULF to the DSP amp connector, and there you go.

The next one if these is going to be so effing easy I could spit : )

This one ate our lunch.

The rear outputs worked great on the fader BTW.

i think i know someone that can help.

sorry i wasn't following this thread.

TJJ and el duderino -- i appreciate all the info on this thread. i'll contact someone that may be able to solve your problem.