I used the Pioneer and did not need to alter the cover, or anything actually, using the Essam design. There are a lot of posts here!

I agree, shaving down the ribs is a no brainer for me. I am more concerned about removing the padding. It appears to me that once you cut the connectors that hold the padding in place that you cannot put it back. Is that correct?

That's not correct ... you do not have to cut them, they are like "shirt buttons" if you know what I mean. Try to release the padding from the back and it will go out with you while the connectors will remain there. That's what I did.

I never removed any padding. Just removed some of the plastic ribs.

I'll be darned, you are right! The padding removes without cutting the tabs.
Attachment 29811

Just so I am totally clear on this. You are telling me that all I need to do is remove the ribs and I can keep the tabs in place and I can put the padding back on and that will give the Stealthbox the added space that it needs?

If necessary I don't have a problem leaving the padding off. But it seems that if the tabs stay in place that they might be a problem as they extend out much further than the ribs. It appears that the middle tab and the bottom tabs may come in contact with the woofer if left in place.

You seem to be confirming the question I just posted. You left your padding and tabs in place and it works fine. I suspect the tabs must be in enough to miss the cone.

Hey guys, here are some detailed shots of the BSW subwoofer box. I must say that it is of very good build quality, with an attractive finish.

I will be installing the Memphis M-Series 8" Sub (sorry BSW :p:) with a Memphis PR 16-70.2 Amp. I imagine it will sound very similar to my 10" S-Class Memphis. Will let you know.
http://giftandphoto.com/X5/bsw1.jpg http://giftandphoto.com/X5/bsw2.jpg http://giftandphoto.com/X5/bsw3.jpg http://giftandphoto.com/X5/bsw4.jpg

Dang that enclosure is HOT!!!


Let us know the results!

Is this box the same external size as Essam's? Mine is and fits without interference, but I did take measures to keep it back, close as possible to the quarter panel. It will tend to drift out it you don't secure it well (in one of my first posts on this, I said that the box would kind of hold itself in with friction, but in time that proved to be wrong and later I posted a pic of a bracket).

What I am leading up to is that if you don't use a bracket, and also a means to hold the bottom of the box back, it will drift out, and out some more and may in time contact the cover even with the ribs cut out.

My advice is to try the bracket first as I believe you will have to anyway, and then if your box is bigger than the specs and still hits the ribs, go ahead and cut them off.

My bracket has proven its worth. No rattles at all, even on the loudest and deepest bass I have. All very nice and solid.

It really is nice.

Remind me if I ever design a car to make sure there is a nice big rectangle back there someplace for a sub. We have had customers who chose a vehicle strictly for the potential of adding an enormous sound system. One guy had a Tercel, the loss-leader very cheapest one with a 4-speed manual and such (the ones they used to advertise for $4999 or something, but which nobody really wanted). He just wanted a clean new car so he could enter sound contests.

It was kind of funny because it was such a small car with the entry level little tires and the stereo stuff was so heavy that it was lowered in back and that isn't the look at all these days.

His car got into a modest wreck which totaled it out because it had no value. He had to remove thousands of dollars worth of stuff.

He left behind lots of really thick and expensive wiring. On my time, I actually removed most of it and gave him a call to get it because he wasn't a rich kid and this wiring cost him a fortune. He never came to pick it up. was so p******!