Originally Posted by big bob (Post 873995)

The first pic looks like the DB25 connector for a pre facelift phone.

AMP is short for Amphenol, the connector company.

You pictures are too small to see the other module, but with that heatsink it may be an RF amplifier for a phone. The green connector doesn't look standard to me, but too be honest those pics are way too small to tell.

Originally Posted by Brian-bmw (Post 874003)

+1 to big bob. The components in your pictures are the car's phone system. They are not related to the audio system. The first picture is the connector for the car's telephone control unit. The 2nd picture is the phone antenna amplifier. I can not tell what the third picture is, but I will bet that it is either the telephone control unit or the back side of the antenna amplifier.

Can you tell is if your car has navigation and whether it has DSP? That will help tremendously to guide you about where you find the car's radio antenna connection and how you might utilize the existing amplifier.

Originally Posted by milesz (Post 874028)

Yes, my car have both nav and DSP.

Originally Posted by Brian-bmw (Post 874033)

Sorry, I missed that you said that in your original post. I totally overlooked it.

You will have a very difficult time using your DSP amp with an aftermarket radio. It is not impossible, but close. Here's why...

The DSP amp is computer controlled and depends on constant communication with the other components in the system over the car's I-Bus. Second, it is a does-it-all component. It accepts a full-volume, two-channel, balanced line-level input from the radio. Then, the DSP amp internally splits the two channels into fourteen individual channels and performs its high/low pass filtering, digital signal processing, and equalization on the channels before they flow to the fourteen independent output amplifiers. The volume, balance, and fader changes all occur internally in the DSP amp from commands that originate through the radio and navigation computer.

Here are your problems:

1) The DSP must sense the presence of the factory radio and nav computer to function. Therefore, you will have to have both of those installed somewhere so that they can communicate over the I-Bus and tell the amp that everything is OK. If either does not respond to the DSP amp, it will shut itself off.

2) You will not be able to adjust balance, fader, equalization, and DSP settings unless you also mount the original nav display somewhere else in the car.

3) There is no place to get a full-range signal to tap for your sub. You can tap into the DSP amp's original sub outputs, but they will be speaker-level outputs and probably not the quality nor the frequency (low-pass setting) you might prefer.

Due to the complexities above, I recommend pulling the DSP amp and speakers and replacing those as a package. The reason you also need to pull the speakers is that they are specifically matched to the DSP amp and its internal active crossover points. If you go with an aftermarket amp, you will need to install passive crossovers that match the factory speakers. It is just easier and sounds better to replace the speakers too.

Originally Posted by milesz (Post 874057)

Thank you very much for your explaination, but that is not good news.