Any Jeep fans out there? Want to pick your brain!

TwinTurboGTR · #1 03-13-2014, 07:27 AM

So I picked up a 2002 Liberty KJ Sport base for a song. My intentions were to find a project, work on it and then flip it. Now of course, if you want to dance, you gotta pay the band and the song it plays isn't exactly great.

Its got some issues, but none of which are horrible. Just some things I am not exactly sure of.

So the question I have is about the speed sensor. Currently, the speedometer is out. Tested the cluster, it works. Looking on the KJ forums, looks like either the wiring to the speed sensor is shorting or the sensor itself. Now I located the sensor and checked the wiring. It looks fine. Got my DVOM and checked it... Now its a 2 wire plug, one line is the HOT 12V and the other is the Speed signal. I back probed the sensor and spun the wheels, but the voltage doesn't change. It stays at a constant 1.7V. FSM says it should be between .8V and 5V, so technically within spec, but it is frozen. So, does that mean the sensor is shot or could it be the computer? Only reason I ask is because if the sensor is dead, wouldn't the reading be 0 and not some voltage? Or does the voltage reading mean something is open?

Also, the motor is running rough. The other day I checked it and I came up with a P0203 and P0205. Cleared the codes and see if I trigger the same ones. Yesterday I check it, I only get P0201. So the problem is bouncing around. Those codes refer to an injector problem, but if it was, the codes shouldn't bounce around. Some on the forums have said a TPS or shorting of the wiring to the injectors, but I'm not sure about the TPS.

So, if anyone can provide any clarification, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks guys.

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Quicksilver · #2 03-13-2014, 11:03 AM

Have you considered a "JEEP" forum? Jeep Forum - Jeep Enthusiast Network
It may be in a better position to answer your questions.

TwinTurboGTR · #3 03-13-2014, 11:44 AM

Yes I have. Bother that forum and the KJ forums. Posted up a week ago and not one answer. I don't think those forums are very active. Just wanted to see if there were any Jeep people on here since there was more traffic.

SlickGT1 · #4 03-13-2014, 03:31 PM

I know how to fix everything for $5.

Fill up fuel can with 87 unleaded for $5.

Pour all over car.

Have a smoke, throw bud at car. Problem solved.

But seriously, I don't know how to help you except to suggest throwing parts at it.

TwinTurboGTR · #5 03-14-2014, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

I know how to fix everything for $5.

Fill up fuel can with 87 unleaded for $5.

Pour all over car.

Have a smoke, throw bud at car. Problem solved.

But seriously, I don't know how to help you except to suggest throwing parts at it.

Haha, it's not all that bad. It is actually a good truck. Looking on the forums, it suffers the same peanut butter sludge in the oil and their CCV's during short trips and they suffer from the same stupid window regulator failures as well.

Well, I am just looking at it from an electronics standpoint and not from a BMW/Chrysler standpoint. I mean is what I said make any sense? The voltage should fluctuate right?

MINIz guy · #6 03-23-2014, 03:48 PM

Is there not another wheel speed sensor to compare to?

From what I assume, the voltage should fluctuate as it measures different wheel speeds.

TwinTurboGTR · #7 03-23-2014, 06:57 PM

Yeah, at the time I didn't. I bought this thing to flip so I didn't want to just chuck parts at it since I wanted to keep the expenses as low as possible. So after thinking about it, I was 99% sure the sensor was shot. So I went to the dealer and picked up and new one and sure as white on rice, the sensor was bad. As soon as I changed it, started driving and the speedo worked and the tranny started shifting right.

Then I discovered the motor was leaking oil like a banshee... Pulled the valve covers off and saw a nice crack in them that let the oil just drain out. It was interesting looking at their engine design. The cover nor the head had any grooves for the gasket to sit in. The gasket was just held in place with grommets built into the gasket that fit over the bolts. FSM says to just put the gasket on dry, but I ended up coating it in glycerin just for that extra something. But atleast no oil leak. But after doing all that, the rough idle went away, so I am assuming the crack was big enough for a vacuum leak. So now the Flame Red jeep is ready to go. Just surprised by the amount of hits I got on it already. A lot of people have inquired about it and have wanted to see it. Pretty neat. Not the easiest thing to work on given the heater core pipes were mostly
Made out of aluminum and ran right over the pass valve cover and every plastic bit was so brittle that it just turned into dust, but I guess no different than out BMW's lol. All in all, good experience.

beamertruck · #8 04-15-2014, 10:58 PM

Replace the TPS, clean out the throttle body, run injector cleaner, also gotta replace the speed sensor ans it should be all good

Sarek · #9 04-16-2014, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR

So I picked up a 2002 Liberty KJ Sport base for a song. My intentions were to find a project, work on it and then flip it. Now of course, if you want to dance, you gotta pay the band and the song it plays isn't exactly great.

Its got some issues, but none of which are horrible. Just some things I am not exactly sure of.

So the question I have is about the speed sensor. Currently, the speedometer is out. Tested the cluster, it works. Looking on the KJ forums, looks like either the wiring to the speed sensor is shorting or the sensor itself. Now I located the sensor and checked the wiring. It looks fine. Got my DVOM and checked it... Now its a 2 wire plug, one line is the HOT 12V and the other is the Speed signal. I back probed the sensor and spun the wheels, but the voltage doesn't change. It stays at a constant 1.7V. FSM says it should be between .8V and 5V, so technically within spec, but it is frozen. So, does that mean the sensor is shot or could it be the computer? Only reason I ask is because if the sensor is dead, wouldn't the reading be 0 and not some voltage? Or does the voltage reading mean something is open?

Also, the motor is running rough. The other day I checked it and I came up with a P0203 and P0205. Cleared the codes and see if I trigger the same ones. Yesterday I check it, I only get P0201. So the problem is bouncing around. Those codes refer to an injector problem, but if it was, the codes shouldn't bounce around. Some on the forums have said a TPS or shorting of the wiring to the injectors, but I'm not sure about the TPS.

So, if anyone can provide any clarification, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks guys.

That signal usually in frequency and not in voltage. Your meter will show an average voltage based on frequency. You should measure that signal using a scope. Volt meter does not help much. If u dont have access to a scope, you can test all of your wiring up to the cluster including cluster grounds to narrow down the possible culprit. If the wiring tests ok. Usually its a sensor, impulse wheel, or cluster problem.

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