X3 Driveshaft replacement
 

Hi all,


My X3 3.0i manual has had a vibration from the rear for a while, but has recently begun to vibrate a lot more than usual, signifying that something needs to be replaced. It begins at about 50 mph and gets very significant at 70. I am looking at replacing the driveshaft due to the worn non-serviceable U-joints at the differential end.


There are a few options, but I am looking at the USA Standard Gear and Trakmotive from RockAuto and Driveshaft Specialists of San Antonio, their Type 1 driveshaft for BMW.


Which do X3 owners have better luck with? Will also be repairing the guibo, preferably with a SGF manufactured one as reccomended by Driveshaft Specialists. Does the Febi or BMW brand use this manufacturer?


I am a relatively experienced DIY mechanic, and recently did the entire cooling system refresh on my X3, as well as replacing shocks and struts and valve covers on other cars, and tracking down a few electrical gremlins on my X3. Any tips for the driveshaft replacement?


Thanks.

Vibration is usually a sign of the center bearing and/or Guibo rubber deteriorating, are you sure the u-joints are worn?

The above is very true...I've stock piled a couple of rear driveshafts from the wrecker in case of quick replacement needed.
Not a hard job but an intense job...
Many examples on YouTube.
After doing the replacement a couple of times, your somewhat of a pro.
If your lucky you've got a shop in town (like I did) that will take the time and do the welding. The shop particularly worked on the drive shafts of large trucks.
Made my little e83 look like a hotdog [emoji894].

Sent from my TMRV075G using Tapatalk

I just replaced mine about 4 months ago. I bought mine from a place called Drive Shaft Store out of California. It was around $500.00 (including freight) and included the center bearing and guibo. So far, so good.

- Installed a GMB U-joint ($20) in the 2004 X3 2.5i in 2024 at ~ 100K miles. Cost was $20.

- But I also installed CSB (BMW brand) and new Flex Disc/centering bushing.
I could have re-used these items but since this is a job I hate doing, I renewed these items.

I posted some photos in bimmerfest E83 forum.

The DIY will come later.

Hi all,


Some info about the car. She is a 6 speed manual M-Sport package X3 with ~180,000 miles. Recently did an entire cooling system refresh and mounted new tires before the driveshaft issue.


After researching on this forum, as well as bimmerfest, e46fanatics, etc. I went with new unit from Driveshaft Specialists of San Antonio. They recommended a SGF manufactured guibo, which I was able to source. The unit came with a new CSB pre-installed. I triple checked that I installed it correctly and preloaded the CSB according to the Bentley manual. It is a relatively simple DIY. This did not solve the problem, and I have a strong vibration at 45mph and above, and no vibration or noise below that speed.


DS of SA sells Powertrain Industries units, who were bought by Dorman in 2021. Since then, it looks like PI quality has taken a nose dive. I will not be getting a replacement driveshaft from them and I will be returning it to DS of SA.


I found a driveshaft specialist a bit far away in NH (there is no one local to me), and he is not able to repair the original driveshaft by rebuilding. He did offer to manufacture a completely new shaft. The main culprit is the rear differential U joint, which has completely rusted and fallen apart from heavily salted New England roads.


The culprit could be the rear CV joints/axles. However, I have no clicking, grinding, or popping under turning or acceleration, and the rubber boots are completely intact.


What aftermarket shafts have we used other than Driveshaft Specialists? Wondering if Drive Shaft Store of California uses Powertrain Industries units...


Another option is to purchase a unit from Rock Auto: USA Standard Gear or WJB / Inmotion Parts look like quality options.


What do we think?

As I mentioned above.

The 2004 X3 2.5i with 100K miles...
I replaced the rear u-joint for $20...
Also installed new Giubo (SGF) and CSB (BMW Genuine part).
All is good now.

The key thing: use washers to gauge the depth of insertion of the u-joint in the yoke ear.
I rented a ball joint tool from Advanced Auto and used the big C-Clamp to press the old u-joint out.
Then new u-joint goes in and restaked it.

I can do a writeup later...

You did not state the model year.
But let's say 2006 M54, then PN is 26103402134.

Dicontinued by BMW but you can look around to see if you get lucky and find a brand-new BME DS.
Or check LKQonline for a low-mileage DS (of course make sure the u-joint is good first), which is better than many of these Chinese junks...

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