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-   -   Throttle hesitation (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/100118-throttle-hesitation.html)

shneidr 03-18-2015 05:23 AM

Throttle hesitation
 
Hey,

I have tried searching the forum to see if I can find something close to my issue but haven't been able to find anything. If I am repeating something that has already been covered please direct me to the thread.

I have an 03 E53 3.0. The issue I am having is after about 30 minutes or when its warm my vehicle will start to act as if I am pulling the max load on a trailer. I press on the gas and the response is very hesitant. If I end up having to come to a stop, it will idle below 500 rpm. It will also stall if I do not shut it off soon. It is time for its regular service but I don't know if that is the issue.

Also in the regular drive mode it seems that it will shift at a higher rpm then normal or hesitate shifting gears.

Thanx for the imput.

Freestyler 03-18-2015 09:58 AM

Does your throttle respond normal when you rev it in neutral?
If it does, and the engine is otherwise acting nornmal, it could very well be your torque converter that is going south.

srmmmm 03-18-2015 10:38 AM

Mine behaved like that when the DISA valve failed.

2002 X5 3.0 273,920 miles
2004 325i 118,500 miles

white46 03-18-2015 11:15 AM

Do you have CEL on?

shneidr 03-22-2015 04:38 AM

To be honest idk what the CEL is. I don't think it does it when in neutral. Ill have to check next time it happens.

14thbmw 03-22-2015 07:29 AM

CEL = Check Engine Light

shneidr 03-22-2015 11:15 AM

That's the funny thing no CEL. I need to get it read if there are any codes.

shneidr 03-28-2015 02:20 PM

Ok hick update. I noticed the other day while driving on the autobahn/interstate, I was getting an up and down shack in the string wheel when I tried to accelerate. I was going about 80mph. What's even stranger is after about 10-15 it stopped doong the hesitation. If it was it wasn't noticeable. Any thoughts?

I still haven't gotten a chance to see if there are any codes being thrown.

shneidr 04-08-2015 02:29 PM

I finally got the codes read, my O2 is bad and I'm getting a misfire on all 6 cylinders. Is there a distributor cap since a misfire in all cylinders in BMW's? Any idea on good spark plugs if I need to get them replaced?

upallnight 04-08-2015 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shneidr (Post 1031410)
To be honest idk what the CEL is. I don't think it does it when in neutral. Ill have to check next time it happens.

To be honest I think you need to bring it into a mechanic.

bcredliner 04-08-2015 06:39 PM

Precat O2 sensor contribute fuel/air mixture. Even though there is a code for O2 sensor there are several other components that contribute to air/fuel mixture that may be the core problem. Are you comfortable doing the troubleshooting?

white46 04-08-2015 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shneidr (Post 1033759)
I finally got the codes read, my O2 is bad and I'm getting a misfire on all 6 cylinders. Is there a distributor cap since a misfire in all cylinders in BMW's? Any idea on good spark plugs if I need to get them replaced?

I would suggest you to take the car to mechanic.

1. there is no such distributor cap. everything is electronically controlled by ignition coils. Have you ever worked on a car???? back in 80s?

2. bad O2 sensors usually don't trigger misfires on all cylinders.

3. posting specific code will help to diagnose

upallnight 04-08-2015 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white46 (Post 1033791)
I would suggest you to take the car to mechanic.

1. there is no such distributor cap. everything is electronically controlled by ignition coils. Have you ever worked on a car???? back in 80s?

2. bad O2 sensors usually don't trigger misfires on all cylinders.

3. posting specific code will help to diagnose

:iagree: Although I'm all in favor of people learning to fix their own car, but they should have some past experience or at least someone to help them along. If there's a BMW club in the area he should join them and see if someone can assist him. Giving advice to a noob that doesn't know anything about cars is just asking for trouble, can you say Lawsuit?

shneidr 04-08-2015 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white46 (Post 1033791)
I would suggest you to take the car to mechanic.

1. there is no such distributor cap. everything is electronically controlled by ignition coils. Have you ever worked on a car???? back in 80s?

2. bad O2 sensors usually don't trigger misfires on all cylinders.

3. posting specific code will help to diagnose


1. To be honest yes most of my experience under the hood is with cars that had caps. In the recent past I have not had the time or facility/tools to do any of my own work. I only recently have been able to do my own maintenance so I am going off of my liked experience.

2. That's fine if they don't, I need to check the spark plugs being the fact that I have 118000 miles on it. I'm just trying to troubleshoot. I didn't know if there was a central cool our something similar due to misfire on all cylinders not just a few.

3. I don't have the specific codes due to not writing them down. When I got them read I was in a hurry and was on a time line.

Doru 04-09-2015 10:17 AM

You probably have some sort vacuum leak. Check all the rubber boots & hoses, and also the rubber end caps.
Rubber boots is the easy one, the rubber hoses, you need to check them all. You have one that goes from the SAP on the right side of the engine, and around to the back. In the back of the engine there are 2 rubber caps/plugs. then on the left side of the engine you have a few more rubber hoses that control mainly your brake booster & fuel check valve (goes to the fuel filter - it's integrated). For these you could use a smoking machine, or a can of highly volatile chemical such as carb cleaner.

Another rubber cap/plug is on the CCV. But now you need to check the CCV system - those plastic hoses tend to crack as well. There are a few.

If everything checks OK, you have now 2 more things to check.
First is the DISA valve, which once it starts failing, can throw vacuum leak codes. How it's build, it has an integrated rubber O-ring, that has a raised lip on it. In time, this lip disintegrates, and your seal goes awol. Another shortcoming is the design per se. The flapper is driven by a plastic hex, not visible. That hex deteriorates in in time and allows for more and more play, so the flap doesn't open/close totally, but sometimes it will flutter very rapidly between these 2 positions, and you can hear that - it's what people refer to DISA whir. That flapping in turn will start dislodging the upper steel pin, and that one can get sucked into the engine leading to extensive damage. The DISA can be rebuild with the GAS kit if the rubber diaphragm is still OK (easy to test), or if not, then you need a new unit and you HAVE to get an original part. Aftermarket will not last, or will not work.

Then check the ICV because you're there. At the mileage you have, it's probably all gunked up, and could also lead to some erratic engine behavior. After you pull it, turn it back and forth and listen for a noise. If it's not present, then the valve is stuck, and you need to clean the unit by spraying solvent, letting it work, then let it dribble out. You need to repeat the procedure a few times, then start cleaning with Q tips soaked in solvent (contact cleaner, carb cleaner, etc). When installing back, look carefully, and you will see the ICV has an end tab on one side. That one is your guide and should be locked in place all the way up in the rubber grommet - not sure how to explain, but you will figure it out. Otherwise, it won't be sealed. So double check before threading the screws in, because the screws can go in with the ICV not seated properly.

Guys, give him a break. He's from Germany, and maybe some acronyms we use here are not used in Europe, and vice-versa.

good luck


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