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Trifecta + Engine failsafe after changing CCV

Hello members,

Need some help and brainstorming about the problem I am having.

A while ago I replaced the failed CCV myself which was leaking oil all over the place. In the process I checked the DISA, which at least wasn't falling apart, cleaned the idle running valve (it was really dirty with gunk and appeared stuck) and throttle body (it could use a bit of cleaning as well). The lower intake boot was cracked as well, and I replaced it with a new one. Even with all this, the engine was running well.

Shortly after putting it all back together, I started getting the famous trifecta lights coming on with DSC disabled message *always* accompanied by the Engine failsafe prog message. I am not sure how the two can be directly related, which leads me to believe that I may be dealing with the alternator/battery gremlin, which can cause all kind of weirdness. I changed the alternator bearings few months back. The brushes have seen batter days but they still seem good, and the voltage while running on the instrument cluster test is always a solid 13.8V, so alternator appears to be good. Until this happens the engine runs fine, and after restarting the engine it may not appear for another hour, but when it does it appears to be completely random.
I don't know how old the battery is, but the car cranks nicely, no sign of hesitation. Would it still make sense to replace the battery?

The other day I cleared the codes and scanned the car after the trifecta appeared. Not sure how I can get the codes out of DIS in text format (?), so I took the screenshots. Codes suggest misfires (I will pull out the plugs to check the condition), and the idle running valve being stuck open.

The Navcoder reports the following codes:

DME Digital motor electronics (ECU)
Part number 7 519 308, version HW 19, SW 50, made by 0000115852 on 31/02 (july 2002)
Diagnostic index 12, Bus index 60, Coding index 00, Revision index 00
Production number 23132615
Stored Fault Codes: 10 [0xCBB2 0x0126 0x15BD 0xBAB1 0xEB1E 0xCAB2 0x0126 0x15BD 0xFFB1 0xEB1E 0x1F64 0x0128 0x452F 0x0000 0xEB20 0x1E64 0x0128 0x452F 0x0000 0xEB20 0x0364 0x0128 0x452E 0x0000 0xEB20 0xD268 0x0128 0x422E 0xA586 0xEB20 0x0164 0x0128 0x452E 0x0000 0xEB20 0x0264 0x0128 0x452E 0x0000 0xEB20 0x1D64 0x0128 0x452E 0x0000 0xEB20 0xD3B1 0x0128 0x133C 0x21D4 0xEB21]

ASC Anti-lock braking system with ASC
Part number 6 761 979, version HW 51, SW 03, made by Bosch on 30/02 (july2002)
Diagnostic index 17, Bus index 3C, Coding index 15
CAN index 51
Stored Fault Codes: 2 [0x6100 0xFC00 0x2C76 0x00FE 0x010F]

Still seems like an electrical problem with two unrelated things firing up together so I am leaning towards starting with the battery. GT1 was also reporting something along the lines "battery voltage below 12V, replace battery". I guess this is blunt enough. :)

Also, as I was changing the CCV and moving the wiring junction box out of the way, I noticed that there are a couple of wires coming out directly from below the box. Those were just hanging there, like someone cut off the connector. Does anyone have a clue where are those supposed ot go, if anywhere.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by trader4 (Post 1032495)

How soon is "shortly after" doing the work? Did it ever start up and
work normally? Given all the systems throwing codes, I would agree
that a voltage problem would be my first area of focus. Have you
checked the obvious? Alternator cable on tight? Alternator wiring
connector secured all the way on?

You also have a code that says the ICV is stuck. Since you cleaned
that, it's possible something is wrong there that's separate from the
electrical issue.

Right after completing the work I did a 1300 mile trip. I think the first occurrence happened on my way back, but now it happens almost every single time I drive.

I did remove the alternator at that time in order to wiggle the transmission oil cooling lines out. I tightened the alternator cable back quite a bit, but I guess I should take another look.

check for corroded conections around the starter or even the battery, if none found keep following the ose main wires, even up to the alternator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by puddinboo (Post 1032513)

check for corroded conections around the starter or even the battery, if none found keep following the ose main wires, even up to the alternator.

Cho both ends of the ground straps too.

Thanks for the tips, I will check the electrical connections over the weekend and report back!

Quote:

Originally Posted by trader4 (Post 1032506)

I would. I replaced the starter and tightened the cable by a
very reasonable amount. Couple months later, started having
similar issues. Turned out the cable nut somehow had come loose.
So.... I tightened it up again. It is on the end of the starter
solenoid and you don't want to twist it off, but I did put a good
torque on it. A couple months later, same thing. I've never seen
something with no real reason to come loose, come loose. Last
time, instead of using the nut on the starter, I used a regular nut
from Lowes together with Locktite. Been OK since.

Since a starter draws a lot of amps it is probably the heat cycle that is causing that nut to come loose. A nyloc nut will prevent this.

http://www.macleanfoggcs.com/assets/...sB_m3s1s61.jpg

Yesterday I finally popped up the hood and inspected the alternator. The nut holding the wire to a terminal was tight, but after removing it I found out that the nut *under* the wire terminal was loose. I tightened everything up, and I am at second day without issues, so it is safe to say ti has been resolved. Hope it helps someone.