wheel alignment spec's 2006 x5
 

hi guys, just noticed the inside rear of my vehicle is scrubbing out the inside rear tyres. i am taking it into the shop for a 4 wheel align and wondered if there was any special recomendations anyone had that i could suggest to the mechanic.i have read that the specs in the manual are not that ideal.
front wheels 255/50/19
rear wheels 285/45/19
thank you paul

For best handling and on-road dynamics, factory specs are good.

For tyre longevity, set camber to minimum factory specs and set toe to 0.01

wheel align
 

hi mate, thanks for the relpy,getting it done tommorow. have been folowing your build article makes me want to get in there and get going. i have an 06 black saphire,use it for towing my caravan and it is just great.
when i bought the vehicle i went and started what i thought was critical maintanance,this i needed to know were down,these are.
1. engine oil & filter
2. air cleaner element.
3. front brake pads and rotors,(needed replacing)
4. cabin air filter.
5.transmission fluid and filter
6.rear diff oil.

i need to drain and refill the cooling system as well,anything else that you would recommend that should be looked at to give me a good base.
thanks paul

Hey Paul,

I tow a van with mine as well (19'6" internal, 2300kg). They do a brilliant job.

I run 20" wheels (275's all-round) and a fairly neutral alignment (pretty much what Smoke's has quoted). Whether towing or not, I have never seen any unusual wear patterns developing on the tyres. That being said however, I believe it essential to monitor tyre pressures regularly, and increase by suitable amounts when laden - particularly when towing something heavy like the van.

Are you sure about your tire sizes?

Sport package 19's are 255 50 19 front and 285 45 19 rear.

Thanks for that ,I have corrected it,should take more care.
Regards paul

No problem, good you have the correct sized tires.

To the OP:
If the rear camber grew in time, and you want to do an alignment without fixing the root cause - you will waste your $$$. The shop will check if everything is still tight, but I know 100% that the only way to do that, is by deflating the air springs (This is a BMW trick I learned from a BMW master tech). If the shop will not deflate the air springs, the rear suspension will "seem" tight even if checking with the pry bar.

Usually the root cause of the increased rear camber is a failed rear ball joint. Change that one on each axle, check the other suspension components, then do the alignment. A failed rear ball joint with full air in the air springs will not allow to decrease the camber and will "seem" tight/OK. And the shop will tell you that this is how the BMW is built, and that you cannot do anything, you just have to live with it.

Here's a good video of that process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_guTE2ANcIg

And the way we get around the pressure on the suspension members is to pull the fuse for the rear self leveling system, right? Do you have to bleed the air out or can you just compress the air springs with the weight of the vehicle and then attack the ball joints?