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TerryZ91 04-01-2015 10:02 AM

Automatic transmission filter and fluid change
 
I tried searching but I can't find the specifics regarding the procedure to change ATF fluid and filter on 2005 x5 4.4I with 6HP26 trans.
The only one I found is this:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...hange-diy.html

And it's not the same trans and doesn't show the filter change.

Can someone guide me to where I can locate a DIY for this? I already bought the kit with gasket, filter and ZF lifeguard 6 trans fluid. I want to know what is the torque spec for drain, fill plug and also the pan mounting bolt.

Thanks!

Slow&Steady 04-01-2015 11:13 AM

I just did mine, and the 1st thing you need to do is look at your fill plug. Mine was capped off and I had to use a dremil and pic to remove the plastic so I could remove the fill plug, ( BMW don't want you changing it) After that I drained the oldfluid in a clean new container. Then removed the Trans pan. Cleaned it all up, swapped out the filter and put the pan back on. The only thing I did was replace 2 old quarts of fluid with 2 new ones and used the rest of the old Trans fluid. I didnt want to clean out the Trans to quickly. This way the 2 new Quarts will slowly clean the trans and maybe late this fall I will drain and re-fill with 4 new quarts. I have to say after swapping 2 new quarts in the 2 to 1 downshifts are not a noticeable. I don't know what the Tq specs were. I guessed. ( yes I know I'm going to he## and my trans is going to fall out without proper tq procedure). Oh, with 120K miles my trans fluid didn't look as bad as I expected. It was slick like motor oil and didn't smell to bad.
If you can pull the drain plug at night and let it drain all night you will appreciate that the next morning when trans fluid isn't dripping all over.

Good luck.

Slow&Steady 04-01-2015 11:15 AM

BTW, Mine is a 2005 4.4i with 6hp26 trans to.

TerryZ91 04-01-2015 11:19 AM

Thanks for the overnight draining tip and also the cap on the fill plug. I'm going to check that before I start this thing. Was the filter held by screws?


Quote:

Originally Posted by Slow&Steady (Post 1032909)
I just did mine, and the 1st thing you need to do is look at your fill plug. Mine was capped off and I had to use a dremil and pic to remove the plastic so I could remove the fill plug, ( BMW don't want you changing it) After that I drained the oldfluid in a clean new container. Then removed the Trans pan. Cleaned it all up, swapped out the filter and put the pan back on. The only thing I did was replace 2 old quarts of fluid with 2 new ones and used the rest of the old Trans fluid. I didnt want to clean out the Trans to quickly. This way the 2 new Quarts will slowly clean the trans and maybe late this fall I will drain and re-fill with 4 new quarts. I have to say after swapping 2 new quarts in the 2 to 1 downshifts are not a noticeable. I don't know what the Tq specs were. I guessed. ( yes I know I'm going to he## and my trans is going to fall out without proper tq procedure). Oh, with 120K miles my trans fluid didn't look as bad as I expected. It was slick like motor oil and didn't smell to bad.
If you can pull the drain plug at night and let it drain all night you will appreciate that the next morning when trans fluid isn't dripping all over.

Good luck.


Slow&Steady 04-01-2015 11:26 AM

The filler plug uses a large allen wrench. In the DIY thats posted is almost identical so you can follow 90% of that. The filler plug should always be removed or loosen 1st to make sure you can re-fill it once you drain it. The filler plug itself is a internal allen and they fill that with plastic so you cant use your allen on it. You have to remove the plastic to be able to use the allen wrench on it. I hope that helps. I should have take in pic lastnight. These isn't a lot of room because the exhaust is right there.

axgordon 04-01-2015 02:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Based on the information in your post, you filled transmission using the wrong fill plug! On our 6HP-26 you must use plug "C" on the attached image to fill transmission and plug "D" to drain. If you used plug "B" to fill - you are about one quart overfilled.

kvc 04-01-2015 02:35 PM

Filler plug is 17mm hex nut and is torqued quite high from memory (FT). I assume you have the steel pan? Depending on the gasket you have, the torque settings for the pan bolts may vary. If you have a rubber gasket they'll be around 7 newton metres. If paper, then around 9. Go to the ZF website for details on the process. New filter simply pushes in place. Make sure the O-ring comes out when you remove the old filter.
I tried to attach the PDF I downloaded from the ZF site but it exceeded forum limits. Simply Google "ZF six speed transmission service procedure" and you should get the result (look for ZF site PDF). There's an extensive document providing info about all sorts of set-ups from Jaguar, Bentley to Audi and BMW with particulars depending on whether you have the plastic or steel pan. Easy to follow info and torque settings. There's also a YouTube video (2 parts) about the process being done on a Mini or BMW car, which gives you an overview. Important things to remember are temps when topping up fluid and ensure you go through all gears to circulate fluid. You MUST top up to correct level while car is running and use lint free cloth to clean pan & magnets. These transmissions are quite sensitive so don't leave lint or any alien bits behind. Take care of the exhaust system (don't burn yourself) and as others have said, drain and top up the system again in a while, so you slowly replace as much of the old fluid as you can (about 4 litres remains in the torque converter). Took me about 3 hours all-up, but I did mine on my garage floor with car up on axle stands (a bit squeezy).

axgordon 04-01-2015 02:45 PM

Look on page #5 for the specific instructions for our 6HP-26x.

http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/u...Procedures.pdf

Slow&Steady 04-01-2015 03:29 PM

Well I used B plug to fill mine up. I drained out a little over 4 quarts using a container with fluid measurements on it. I poured out 2 quarts of old fluid and replaced with 2 new quarts and pumped it all back in while the X was running in park. With all the fluid back in that came out, it dribbled out of the B hole. After a test drive and back on the rack again, i pulled out B plug and got a few drops out. So If I took out 4 quarts and put back in 4 quarts I don't think its over filled. Like I said my transmission will probably fall out now.

NOTE: This is how I did mine. You should do yours however you want. That Large C plug is hooked to a large plastic piece inside the pan. That should be a lot of fun filling that back up. My hypothesis is BMW does not want anyone to change the fluid, so they made it more complicated. BTW the trans has a sticker on it that says lifetime fluid, do not change or something like that and then a part # for fluid to use.

So Terry, I apologize for giving bad advise. Clearly I'm ignorant. Still good luck with your project.

TerryZ91 04-01-2015 10:37 PM

Slow&Steady, Thank you again for sharing the tips. There is no need to apologize, you did nothing wrong. I would have done the same thing. I still find it hard hard to believe that both the drain and fill plug is on the bottom of the pan.I guess I will find out when I do this. This is a first for me. I'm used to hondas where everything is easy. Thank you for the PDF file, I feel more confident tackling this job.

LVP 04-02-2015 06:33 AM

If yours is like the picture above, drain is D and C is fill. If you plan to drop the pan though, get a new gasket, filter and bolts (they come with locktite on them, or clean and reuse/re-locktite them). Also grab the sleeve gasket as you can only change this with the pan dropped (there is a youtube video showing this nicely). The sleeve gasket is the one on the electrical connector going into the tranny. Yours is probably leaking or weeping too.

If you are only draining/filling, the key is to make sure you fill at the right temperature. Do not do it cold and hope all will be well. The big fill port is like a raised lip with a big plastic tee over top. You shove the fill hose in and to one side. When its at the right temp and you've run through the gear selection process as you've filled it, the fluid will fill to the raised lip and start to drip out. Again, at the correct temperature. If for some reason you feel compelled to shut your vehicle off with the fill plug open - don't. No really, don't. You will quickly realize how fast hot fluid can exit that orifice. :)

Cheers.

TerryZ91 04-03-2015 01:28 PM

LVP, I did confirm that my transmission drain plug looks like the one in the picture. Do you know the part # for the sleeve gasket you are referring to? I couldn't find it on the online catalog. Thanks! Did you just use a temperature probe to get temp of fluid when you were filling up?

Quote:

Originally Posted by LVP (Post 1033044)
If yours is like the picture above, drain is D and C is fill. If you plan to drop the pan though, get a new gasket, filter and bolts (they come with locktite on them, or clean and reuse/re-locktite them). Also grab the sleeve gasket as you can only change this with the pan dropped (there is a youtube video showing this nicely). The sleeve gasket is the one on the electrical connector going into the tranny. Yours is probably leaking or weeping too.

If you are only draining/filling, the key is to make sure you fill at the right temperature. Do not do it cold and hope all will be well. The big fill port is like a raised lip with a big plastic tee over top. You shove the fill hose in and to one side. When its at the right temp and you've run through the gear selection process as you've filled it, the fluid will fill to the raised lip and start to drip out. Again, at the correct temperature. If for some reason you feel compelled to shut your vehicle off with the fill plug open - don't. No really, don't. You will quickly realize how fast hot fluid can exit that orifice. :)

Cheers.


axgordon 04-03-2015 02:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'll try to answer this one:). The sleeve is part #1 on the attached image. The best way to measure fluid temp is to attach computer running INPA software, but I always got good results using simple infrared thermometer.

TerryZ91 04-03-2015 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axgordon (Post 1033231)
I'll try to answer this one:). The sleeve is part #1 on the attached image. The best way to measure fluid temp is to attach computer running INPA software, but I always got good results using simple infrared thermometer.

Thanks Axgordon!! Did you point the infrared thermometer at transmission housing or by the fill hole?

axgordon 04-03-2015 07:12 PM

Point it to the middle of the pan.

LVP 04-03-2015 10:43 PM

Here is the video showing how to get the sleeve out. It may be hard, but his instructions work. Just be patient.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hkpu...NYdPw&index=28

And thanks axgordon for looking up the part :)

TerryZ91 04-17-2015 03:11 PM

Easy DIY
 
Just wanted to let you know I finally got a chance to change my trans fluid. Thanks for the tips guys! They were really helpful. It was easy to do with the instruction provided from this forum. I did let the oil drain overnight and it was helpful. After I dropped the pan, there was still oil dripping very slowly. Put a cardboard or something so you don't get your floor dirty!

As far as torque spec.
I torqued my pan bolts to 10-11Nm Size: 25mm torx socket
Drain plug at 12Nm Size: 5mm hex socket
and fill plug at 80Nm Size: 17mm hex socket

I also replaced the filter and installed the sleeve that was mentioned. Just a little tip for future DIY. I had trouble pushing the plastic tab (lock) back in place once new sleeve installed and problem was it wasn't pushed in all the way. Also, don't forget to coat the o-ring on the sleeve so it goes in smoothly. I pushed the sleeve in and at the same time pushed the plastic tab up to lock. Drained about 5.5qt of fluids and filled up close to 5,.5qt of ZF lifeguard 6. I also used external infrared thermometer as mentioned in this thread. Transmission is much smoother. Worth the work and $200 spent.

One other thing I would recommend is get new pan bolts! i think there are 20. I used my old one but If i could, I would go back and purchase new ones. When I was tightening the bolts some were rusted and were getting stripped in the process, and I was being careful. I purchased the trans change kit so it already came with new filter, (2) magnets, paper gasket, drain and fill plug.

Gurjit 04-17-2015 03:29 PM

http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...28_Catalog.pdf

http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...hselkit_EN.pdf

https://youtu.be/brx6aIMOMG4

theres a white tab on the passenger side rear of the solenoid body that unlocks the seal when pulled down and out for the harness so you can replace that aswell

all info was found in 2 minutes of searching in google

kvc 04-18-2015 02:49 AM

Did mine a month ago. Now it's time to drain and refill again with more new ATF. Will do it once more in another month, to dilute the old AFT as much as possible, with the new fully synthetic fluid (at a fraction of the cost of the genuine ATF which is semi synthetic). All good so far, except for a harsh change from 1st to second when she's cold, but that was there before and I believe the trans may require a software update or something. I just live with it and warm up the car for 2 minutes before taking off.

boredincl 06-22-2015 06:45 PM

I just replaced the plastic trans pan on my 09 35d with a metal pan for a Ford Raptor, 6R80 so I can just drain and replace the filter next time instead of the expensive ZF pan.
I did a write up on it I could share but its a 1.4meg pdf that the forum says its to big to upload. i thought premier members could upload larger files?
If so how do i do this?

randiwood 07-18-2015 11:24 PM

6HP26 Transmission Service
 
don't have the diy link but did do the job and would offer a few things about doing it. some experience changing trans fluid, read a few posts here, not in a hurry, some simple techniques and some balls to do the job..it is worth it, the fluid in mine at 40,000 was very dark, the magnets were coated, the pan had the same clutch particles. no metal, it does shift smoother, especially under load going up hill in automatic mode.
1. secure the car, I used four ramps and drove up so the vehicle was level and secure.
2. let the car cool, the trans housing is aluminum, the bolts steel- easier on the threads, the cats and exhaust are right there by the pan.
3. make sure the fill plug will loosen before you drop the pan, mine was a large recessed plug at the rear of the bottom of the pan. 6H26 for the 4.8is. the drain plug is real close towards the front and flush with the pan.
4. drain the fluid- four to five liters.
5. gently separate the pan from the transmission.
6. keep your catch fluid pan because when you remove the pan, fluid will still drop...I used a pan larger than the trans pan to cover any drips.
7. The trans filter is held in place by the tube washer and is a pop in, pull out thing.held in by the tube seal, 1" in diameter. , if it doesn't come out with the filter, go in and get it..you can see up the pipe..
8. if your mechatronic seal is leaking-weeping on the passenger side of the trans, now is the time to change, otherwise I would leave it, it is a fussy replacement. relatively easy pull down on the white tab releasing it located on bottom near filter, pull off connector, make sure you note orientation of tang...very important to get this right, new one goes in reverse..must be aligned. when pulling seal/tube out...put Vaseline on the seals of the new one,,otherwise it is a bitch going back in...once in, push up on the white locking tab. replace connector. white locking tab will not go back into place when pushing up if the seal is not fully inserted...I needed Vaseline after nearly hitting it with a hammer..ha
9. clean pan, magnets..return magnets, easy to forget to put back on pan.
10. put in filter,
11. replace pan, alternate tightening the numerous bolts. take time..align all bolts to pan to gasket..might have to push pan around a bit, get a few spread apart bolts in first to ease the others.only hand turn a few turns until all bolts are in place. tighten bolts in cross pattern, going around one last loop to make sure all are tight.
12. the fill plug is funky, it is shaped like a an open ended T...see it close when you have the pan out so you know what you are dealing with on the re-fill. I got a plastic 90 degree plastic elbow the size of the pump tube and mounted it on the pump tube and it worked like a charm. I used one of those $5 pumps that screws onto a liter/quart bottle but it takes a lot of time changing bottles on the re-fill. so I got a bucket and put about 5-6 liters in and had it ready and positioned.
13. pump fluid until it comes out, the fill hole, have to put something there to catch it otherwise it gets all over.. return fill plug only slightly,
14. start vehicle, remove fill plug and fill until it comes out..replace fill plug. Tighten ..it can be done relatively quickly via the hand pump and the fluid in the bucket. what ever is left in the bucket goes back in the bottle at $25 a bottle or ?...next time. I felt that if I got enough fluid in, when it started to come out the fill hole, while the engine was started cold, I would get the right amount of fluid and didn't need to temperature test it for the proper amount. pumped like mad to get it full asap. heats up fast and hot fluid expands. For me, the key to this job was the ramps, vehicle cold, the bucket, the pump, the elbow, a large pan, keep the bolts together, satisfaction ...

ToddL 08-05-2015 01:20 PM

I just ran across this video on the internet, actual fluid and filter change on a ZF 6HP transmission. Hope it helps someone on the post.... :)

101112_mediathek_001rw

kvc 08-05-2015 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToddL (Post 1046801)
I just ran across this video on the internet, actual fluid and filter change on a ZF 6HP transmission. Hope it helps someone on the post.... :)

101112_mediathek_001rw

Interesting that the "ZF education centre" in the video, states that a transmission service should be done between "55,000 and 75,000 miles or after 8 years use". Perhaps this will finally put to bed the question of whether or not we have a 'lifetime' service transmission and the need to ever service this component?

ToddL 08-05-2015 02:05 PM

Exactly, kvc....I was thinking the very same thing !

wogboy_9000 03-13-2019 04:56 PM

Hi guys, sorry to revive this thread from the dead.

I've gone to do this oil change last night (not dropping the pan, just a drain and refill) and about 3.5L of fluid came out of 'D' and fill hole 'C' would only take 2L before it started overflowing.

I've taken it for a drive, it seems to drive fine (better, even) and I checked the level when cold this morning and it's still at the right level.

I wanted to do this procedure 2-3 times over the next year or so to see if it makes any difference to the gear changes, then probably drop the pan, do the filter, etc.

Is it possible it was overfilled the last time it was done (if it was ever done)?

Thanks :)

Purplefade 03-13-2019 05:06 PM

Was the car running when you filled it?

Should be level, running, cycled through each gear briefly and filled at temp until just a trickle is running out of the fill plug.


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior

wogboy_9000 03-13-2019 06:00 PM

It wasn't running, however the car was level and I filled it until it spilled, put the plug back in, cycled through the gears for a bit, turned it off and checked the level again, took it for a drive, then checked the level again.

I checked it again this morning when the car was cold and a little started coming out of the fill hole when I undid it. It's definitely not going to take anymore, which made me assume it had previously been overfilled.

Attacking Mid 03-13-2019 07:02 PM

Read this post again more carefully. You fill the trans WHILE running. You cannot get it full without the engine running.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purplefade (Post 1157366)
Was the car running when you filled it?

Should be level, running, cycled through each gear briefly and filled at temp until just a trickle is running out of the fill plug.


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior

AM.

Purplefade 03-13-2019 07:08 PM

Assuming a ZF 6sp trans it has to be filled with the car running.

After draining, refill the pan until there is just a trickle coming out, start the car, cycle through the gears and then continue filling until I believe the fluid trickling out reaches 82/86 degrees. I can look that up real quick but the car absolutely has to be running to fill it properly.

I usually have my wife start the car and cycle through the gears, holding each gear for 3 seconds or so while I am under the car continuing the fill process. I use a laser temp monitor and continue to fill the trans until the fluid reaches the correct temp with just a trickle flowing out of the fill hole. Throw the plug back in, shut her down, drop it off the jack stands and go for a test drive [emoji106]


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior

Attacking Mid 03-13-2019 07:42 PM

The temp range is 30-50C (86-122F), so I run it just until it barely feels warm when filling/checking level. A thermometer would be ideal, but I think my method is adequate.

AM.

Purplefade 03-13-2019 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Attacking Mid (Post 1157375)
The temp range is 30-50C (86-122F), so I run it just until it barely feels warm when filling/checking level. A thermometer would be ideal, but I think my method is adequate.

AM.



Good call AM! I had the 86 right LOL... I actually just checked my log from my last change and i buttoned her up at 98 degrees. Not sure why 82/86 stuck in my head.


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior

wogboy_9000 03-13-2019 11:14 PM

Alright guys - embarrassingly, I started the car and it took another 2L of fluid. So the exact amount that came out, went back in. Thanks for your help everyone :)

Purplefade 03-13-2019 11:56 PM

That is good news, glad you got it all sorted out and no worries at all, that’s why we’re here [emoji106]


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior


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