5/2004, since this is a MY 2005 looks like factory part. Interestingly enough, this was a southern car that came with the ZCW package, and it had a cold weather CCV kit from the factory.

I can attest to the lower hose (CCV-dipstick) being the most problematic of all the hoses. In theory, if this hose is "backed up" with frozen residue, the CCV will become full of oil/ water mix. When I removed the lower hose, it tore and was covered in oil. I would say this hose was the primary contributor in the failure.

Since the engine does a pretty good job of being warm, and since the CCV is insulated under the IM near the engine, I'm assuming that the lower (and therefore colder) part of the CCV system froze closed, which pressurized the crankcase. Once this was in effect, it quickly moved oil from the crankcase to the intake, which resulted in the smoking and oil in cylinders.

Point of the matter is: driving the car long enough for the engine to heat the oil to full operating temp (~180?) and preferably parking where the ambient temperature is >32F should allow the CCV to return all oil to the pan, while separating the moisture and recirculating that into the intake.

Next up; a question. I have so far removed a fair bit of sensors (entire drivers side harness: TB, ICV, Intake temp, brake solenoid, etc; the injector harness, and intake manifold).

However, I have yet to crank the engine to remove oil from the cylinders. Does anyone know if I will be able to crank without these sensors plugged in? Logic is telling me that I won't due the ECU needing to see a TB position, but I'm not sure how much reassembly I need to go through?

In the case I cannot crank with these sensors installed, my thinking is I will continue working (doing cooling system, hydraulic tensioner pulley, and OFHG), reinstall everything, then crank out the oil, then give it a start.

Thoughts?

I did mine with the manifold in place since my repair was preventative and I didn't need to clean out the cylinders, can't help you there.

Your original parts lifespan seems to be what I had as well.

I'd be very surprised if you have the updated Cold Weather Dipstick guide Tube though, the part wasn't on a service bulletin until 2009, as well as the Cold weather CCV, since your original was stamped 2004.

See this SIB for the part numbers of the updated valve and hoses, just because the car had Cold Weather package has nothing to do with whether the CCV was insulated. Note that the hose on top of the manifold runners is insulated from the factory, its the crankcase hose, the dipstick return, and the S-shaped hose that most likely broke when you removed the valve that were wrapped in insulation per the SIB.

http://chrisparente.com/Images/530/CCV-SIB110803.pdf

Kind of just checking in here more than anything. Vehicle in my sig now has 130k and its def time to replace this. I first noticed (maybe 7 months ago) some mayo in one of the lines when doing the vanos rebuild. In the mean time I have noticed some mayo in the oil fill. I have also noticed increased oil consumption. I recently replace my OFHG awhen my alternator failed and the thing stumbled like crazy after start up and had a noticeable whistle. Perhaps even before that but certainly for the next 15-20 startups it seemed like it almost wanted to die when starting. That has since gone away. I remembered this issue and checked today and it is sucking a decent amount of air through the oil fill. I am also hoping that this takes care of an odd sort of engine flutter i have at the mid range rpm's in second gear.

I am looking at ES 1905414 and ES#: 24265. Geneuine BMW kits sold by ECS tuning - CCV and hose kit and the second is the cold climate dipstick. total with tax and shipping is 307. Is that par for the course? I like ecs tuning and they are close by so I am a bit partial.

Sounds about right for price. I would budget another $200 for preventative maintenance pieces while your in there since you're chasing an issue that could be a few things. As far as your symptoms go, a vacuum leak will cause the whistle and strange engine issues. Since the CCV is quite burried, you will be able to take off a lot of parts that need to be inspected/ replaced. Key points I've always done are TB gasket, idle control valve cleaning and now gasket, clean out the CCV "manifold" that distributes vacuum to each IM runner, inspect/ replace those gaskets, check all intake boots for tears especially in the flexible grooves, check the vac lines that connect to the intake boot (post MAF), clean MAF, check the DISA valve for condition, reseal DISA with silicone... I think that's it. Budget a weekend to do this and do it in a heated garage of possible. If you can afford to be without the car, tear down and inspect parts, then order. If you can afford to replace/ hold on to extra parts, order everything and go to town.

All of these things are identical to the e46 assuming you have a 3.0. Check e46fanatics.com for how tos on these subjects if you get lost!

mcurcio, thats about par for the course - the cold weather CCV and hoses is about $150 or so - the updated cold weather matching dipstick guide tube is $150 in and of itself (but worth it as its a superior design IMO)

How did you like the Vanos rebuild? Did you notice any changes?