how much fluid do you end up using to R&R the tranny and the transfer box?
Just want to get the picture, how much would it cost to do this :)

Ok then, enough about fluids, how about spark plugs? which one are recomended?

Thanks you guys have been a great help and give me piece of mind before my long trip :)

Only use the spark plugs from your BMW dealer parts dept.

Transmission fluid R&R requires about 5 quarts which is about half of the fluid in the transmission (the other half is in the torque converter); cost is $25.50 per quart.

Transfer case fluid R&R required about 3/4 of a quart and I used the same fluid as the transmission requires. Please note that the transfer case on my 2001 is a NON-Xdrive. The Xdrive has a clutch and probably requires a different fluid.

Regarding spark plugs, I haven't replaced them yet as they are 100,000 mile plugs and have performed flawlessly. When the 100,000 miles comes I will replace them with the OEM plugs on the basis of "if it ain't wrong, don't change it".

Well, I've decided to replace my drivebelt and compressor belt on my X5.
I have both belts at hand, but still waiting to find time to do this.
Anyone has any suggestion on the easiest way to do this ? Any DIY ??

Thanks

I'm about to do my 60k mile service on my 4.4i X5 and I was wondering what types of oils should i use i was thinking of going redline with my motor oil, atf, and differential. However i read my manual and the differential fluid said it was life time but I really don't believe in anything lasting for a lifetime and I really want to change it? Any recommendations on the oils? With my service I am planning to change all my filters air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and doing a coolant flush. Am I missing anything else to change if i did please tell me?

I have a 2001 4.4i April build and have "been there, done that" - BE CAREFUL with the replacements as follows:

Engine oils - Stay with a major brand FULLY synthetic oil. I use Mobil 1 15W-50 in Houston, TX but for colder climates a 5W-40 is more applicable. Use the highest viscosity available considering your ambient temperature for maximum engine protection.

ATF - The ZF transmission in your vehicle has a VERY SPECIFIC fluid requirement, deviation from which will SEVERELY damange the transmission clutches. The fluid requirement P/N can be found on the GREEN label on the transmission pan (mine is P/N 83229407807 @ $25.40 per QUART!!).

Transfer Case - My used oil was not dyed red as per the BMW Dexron III replacement recommendation. I did a viscosity check and found it to be essentially the same as the transmission oil so I replaced it with the high $$$$ transmission oil (requires just under 1 quart).

Differentials - My 2001 does not have Xdrive (I think 2004+ has Xdrive) but the gear oil is FULLY SYNTHETIC "Castrol SAF XO" which you should use.

Filters - Leave the fuel filter alone as it will tell you via reduced engine power at full throttle if it is becoming restricted. Make sure you open the engine oil filter canister and R&R the oil filter BEFORE YOU DRAIN THE ENGINE OIL as oil from the canister will drain into the engine pan when it is opened. The OEM air filter is a higher $$$ activated carbon type which the dealers usually replace with a standard air filter; make sure you get the carbon filter if you want to minimize exhaust fumes entering the vent system.

Spark plugs - Leave them alone! They are good for 100,000 miles! Mine currently have 78,000 miles on them and the engine still runs as good as when the vehicle was delivered.

Coolant - DON'T USE THE GREEN STUFF!!. The coolant in the system is the latest formulation which does NOT contain 'dissolved solids" as does the green stuff. Its the dissolved solids that attack the water pump seals and coat the entire inside of the coolant system with an insulative layer which compromises heat transfer in an effort to prevent corrosion. The latest formulations (BMW's "BLUE" stuff and GM's DexCool "ORANGE" stuff) use organic chemistry which is essentially lifetime (even though BMW says to R&R it). Their advantage is that they do not attack the water pump seals and do not coat the interior of the coolant system thus allowing maximum heat transfer.

Brake fluid - You missed this one. Every 2 years you should flush the brake system since brake fluid absorbes water from the air which will boil at high temperatures (at the slave cylinders) and cause corrosion within the system. This will take 2 people to do, one to pump the brake pedal while the other opens/closes the slave cylinder valves. "Thief" the used fluid from the master cylinder reservoir prior to beginning, refill it with new fluid and make sure it doesn't get empty while flushing or it will suck air necessitating that you start all over again. Flush each slave cylinder (there is a specific wheel order which I don't remember) until the fluid runs clean.

I sourced the transmission oil, transfer case oil and differential gear oil from the dealer for simplicity sake and I'm sure I paid more but didn't have to spend my time searching.

maintenance
 

well done SIR that 's good preventive maintenace for our X5....

Withidl,
Outstainding info as usual!
Thanks, D!
BR,D

Hmmm...I had the dealer do my inspection II at 60k miles and they replaced my plugs. I guess I got ripped off for unnecessary service? :confused:

Ya-ya-did!