Window Regulators - Reinforcing before they break?
 

Guys, I've had my X for a few years now (December of 2011) and no issues with the regulators to date, knock on wood. A touch of a rattle when closing the door which I understand is mostly from the old style window clips at the base of the window.

I have to replace my door handles (inner door handle black plastic trim is peeling) so the door panels are probably coming off this weekend. While it's off I'd like to replace the black plastic clips holding the window in place, I have 2 new screws,bushings, and black clips from the dealer.

What other fixes/refurbishings of the window regulator can I do, while the door panel is off, and while the regulator is "in situ"? Should I just wipe down the tracks of the regulator and lightly lubricate for smoother operation, maybe reinforce the motor on the track with the popular "ziptie or copper wire" fix? I just would hate to not do everything possible to get the most life out of my regulators, while I have the doors open.

Also perhaps I can access/replace the regulator slider clips with the improved version from www.regulatorfix.com
EDIT: I just ordered a pair of the below, for $14 and free shipping its worth a shot to do it while the door panel is off, at least on my passenger door while that one is open this weekend, if its helpful I will reinforce the regulator with these clips on the drivers door too, when I do the bottom black window clips.

http://regulatorfix.com/images/bmw-x5-front.jpg

Thoughts?

I have decided to pro-actively refurbish my window regulator assembly with the clips above, purchased from RegulatorFix.com for $14 delivered, per front window. Also 2 new black plastic window clips.

This weekend I will loosen the window bolts holding the glass, slide it up manually and tape in place, and remove the regulator itself from the vehicle, and I will clean and lubricate the cables with DuPont Teflon spray, and clean/lubricate the tracks with the same. Then I will install the RegulatorFix clips on the regulator itself, and depending on how beefed up/updated the attachment point is, I may add the infamous "zip tie repair" to further reinforce the connection, then I will bolt the regulator back in place, lower the window manually, and install the new window clips in place.

Will take my time to snap a few pics as well how my regulator looks, its original as far as I know on my 2003, 80k mile X5. I haven't heard any forum members trying the RegulatorFix clips on their existing regulators either so I may as well be the forum guinea pig. If my passenger window goes well, I will do the same on my drivers window in the coming weeks.

When I bought my 2001, the driver's window regulator was broken, so it was one of the first things I fixed. In my case, it turned out to be just those parts you showed in the photo that needed replacing, but I got a complete regulator assembly for about $30 on Amazon, so I went that route.

All the pre-emptive repair + maintenance sound good. Those regulator clips are generally a composite of metal (appears to be pot metal) and plastic (nylon?). The OE ones vs. the various aftermarket vendors (BMW does not sell those separately) have varying designs of what is metal vs. plastic. The ones you show in the photo, I expect are 3-D printed. They may have a different failure mode than the OE ones you're taking out, so different reinforcement may be necessary. ???

So here's some advice that may help...

When I did mine, I correctly assumed that there would be a lot of missing/broken little parts. So I bought several of the plastic clips that hold the inside door panel to the door frame (brittle with age + snap when removing). There are two different types - one with a foam gasket, one without. I bought several of both - cost is minimal.

Unexpectedly, when I took the panel off, I found that the foam vapor barrier was GONE. So I bought a new one of those.

New window clips, as you've bought, but I also bought new screws, etc. Obviously with the vapor barrier gone, someone else had been in there before and I did not know what he may have left me with, and given that BMW obviously has its summer interns handle regulator design throughout its product line, I did not want to further cut any corners by using a "close-enough" screw that I might have in the garage.

Also, on taping up the window, as I recall, checking the Bentley shows to roll the window down a certain distance (like 140mm or something) before taping it stopped and disconnecting the battery. I think that specific position allows access through the door frame to the regulator screws, so you won't need to re-connect the battery and window control to drive the window up/down mid-way through the repair to get those last two screws. Why would one care? Well, if you need to turn power back on, etc. a few times, it is more likely that you'll forget to reconnect the airbag when turning on the power. This will set your SRS light, requiring a reset later with the special tool. That was not a concern for me, since the PO did not know this, and my SRS light was on anyway and I had to buy the tool to fix that. But if you don't have a reset tool, either be cautious on this, or figure out the 140mm distance, or whatever it is.

I think it you are careful to never reconnect power (not just turn the key to on; I mean connect the battery) with the airbag disconnected, you can avoid problems with the SRS light. But if you DO, you will need special equipment to reset it.

Here are the parts I used (2001 x5 3.0i, left front window):
51-33-8-254-911 front left window regulator
51-48-8-402-389 front left vapor/sound barrier
07-14-7-154-229 hex bolt
51-33-8-242-760 bushing
51-41-8-224-768 door panel clip with foam washer
51-41-1-973-500 door panel clip
51-33-8-254-781 clip

Sub'd...

A+ for being proactive on PM! :thumbup:

Subscribes. How the hell do these work. And why not just to the wire, or zip tie shit like most of us did.

^Slick I plan on zipties in addition to the nylon regulator clips I purchased, "double reinforcement so to speak.

I already purchased about 10 of the foam washer panel clips, I think they are an updated design. Vapor barrier is good, I was in there for the handle carrier 2 years ago and it was in fine shape. I have 4 bushings (both doors) and 4 window bolts as well

If I have the room, I MAY try to do it "in situ", with the window taped up and free from the regulator, I don't plan on disconnecting the airbag, just tying to the side and taping it up by the window. You have to lower the window almost all the way to loosen the black clips holding it to the regulator clips. (Clips bolting to other clips, funny how that works)

Anyways, if there is enough room in the door frame, theoretically one could rotate the regulator cable clips and unsnap from the track, unclip the regulator cable itself, replace with new clip, and snap cable in place (reinforced with zip ties if needed). Then do other side, perhaps needing to plug window switch in to get the other side at the proper distance.

Speaker will have to be unclipped as well, I'm still deciding if I want to drop the $140 on BSW front door midbasses "while I'm in there".

But yes, the key is doing preventative measures before failure, so I'm hoping my little experiment with the parts will work out well and be beneficial.

I did the zip tie thing with the regulators in the door. I taped up the window to the top, all the way. The airbag was in the way, I don't remember which door, but I took it out, and turned it around, then used the screw to hold it in place out of the way. Never unhooked from the harness.

Yes I plugged the window module in as needed, no issues there. Never even bothered to disconnect battery.

I have had the panel off quite a few times. Didn't break any clips yet, but it could be because it is 3 years fresher. lol. And taking off that panel is too easy. You can put those speakers in whenever you need, you don't have to do it now. I know you want to though. Don't forget about the puddle light, and the fiberoptic door handle light. I always snag one of them when removing the panels.

^Touche Slick, the door panel does come off easy. I'll prob do the speakers down the line, but I do have a couple clips missing in my door so I'll refresh them. I never did have the lighted door handles on my 2003, but good reminder, maybe I'll see if they are taped up somewhere in the door, if they are functional I will have to rig them up for sure!

I'm not a disconnect the battery guy either, as long as you aren't unclipping the airbag with the key on you are fine. Thanks for the tips man, I'll see if I can get it accomplished over the holiday weekend.

FYI, when you order these panel clips, you can get them from ECStuning for either Genuine BMW or Genuine Mini for same part number, YET the Genuine MINI clips seem to be a about $0.25 cheaper per clip. FYI.