02 4.4L transmission removal
 

so, the dreaded trans prog error with slipping before locks into 4th gear. My ultimate goal is to rebuild whats in their now, but I've got a used one on my way to swap in.

Despite endless searching, I haven't seen a write-up on removing the transmission. Someone said the bentley covers the 3.0 which is different.

So, it seems to the following (not in this order)
remove exhaust
remove electrical stuff
drain fluid
disconnect front section from engine.
mark and remove drive shaft

anyone care to add proper steps or a good link?

many thanks in advance

I'm watching for a response to this also. There is a vendor on ebay that sells remans/with reman converter for 2700.00 shipped. I have that infamous shudder and hesitation when I take off. I have rebuilt a GM transmission with great success in the past. I used a video.

I did this two summers ago on my 4.4i (ZF 5HP24 transmission). I am happy to answer and specific questions.

I have the Bentley manual and followed that. It does show the A5S390R, but the steps seem identical.

I think If you are going to do something this big, you should buy/borrow/steal a Bentley manual. Yes, it is expensive, but this job is big and $100 is very well spent (and you can always sell the book on ebay later. There are tons of torque specs you will need, and lots of little details, so even if someone wrote out the steps, you should still get the manual.


Two big steps you left out -

1) The transfer case is bolted directly to the rear of the transmission - as part of the process to remove the front and rear drive shafts, you will have to support the tranny/TC and seperate and remove the TC. A good time to replace the chain if you have a pre-facelift car and/or replace the front driveshaft with the longer-spline version if you haven't done that already.

2) you will have to lift engine slightly to get access to some bolts, which requires disconnecting the engine mounts and steering rack (this is a bit complicated) and lifting the engine slightly and supporting it carefully. In lieu of this step, you can hire a circus contortionist to get to the top right bellhousing bolt.

Borrow/buy sets of torx and e-torx sockets and a set of e-torx ratcheting box end wrench (gearwrench style). You will need all these options.

I meant to add one more thing - use google to find some ZF distributors. There are a few big ones around. They sell factory rebuilt transmissions pre-filled with the expensive fluid and with a torque converter for around $3k. When I called them, they quickly dropped the price from $3600 to $3000 when I paused...you might even be able to do better. You do have to ship your core back.

How long did it take you?

Back in was one weekend day. Out had several delays as I wasn't prepared with all the tools. I had a 1-ton hoist (for the engine) but it is a little shorter than the 2-ton models, so I got a 2-ton from harbor freight and sold my 1-ton on craigslist. I think I also had to get a set of box end e-torx (in addition to the ratcheting version, it's getting a little fuzzy now) to access all the TC bolts and bell housing bolts.

Think also about how much clearance you will need - I didn't have them then but have since bought 10 inch tall race ramps and wheel cribs... It's a heavy vehicle to be working under with jury-rigged supports.

And plan on breaking an exhaust flange stud or two... Fixing that ate up quite a few hours.

thanks for the input David.

Bentley manual is on its way. Tranny be here Friday. Already own engine hoist, all the correct E things (rear bearings on a 7 series - what a pain).

Whats your thoughts on what another member did:

I can see that working. Definitely need the vehicle up high to get in there.

It would save you some trouble disconnecting things in the front, but try to think through what's going to happen as you tip the engine. I would remove the fan to protect the radiator and disconnect the coolant hoses. Perhaps unbolt the oil filter housing and power steering reservoir (1 or 2 bolts each) to avoid stressing those hoses. Loosen the nuts on the engine mounts so the engine can tip without stressing the pricey fluid filled mounts...

yea, this is the part Im most nervous about. New engine mounts. I don't want to screw something else up.

I'll update as I go through the process

You can search for my post rebuilding tranny in garage I think i finally did the write up dec 2010 or jan 2011 maybe. (I dunno - got a bad bout of CRS lately).

Anyway......

The bell housing bolts are no big deal. My process was painless: support the trans with something adjustable, and remove the cross-member. I used the trans jack I rented for the day. Then unbolt and remove the transfer case. It's not heavy. Then carefully lower the trans jack several inches. The engine will rock back but you will notice there's enough room between the engine and firewall to do this. In my case I just sat Indian style (is saying that still ok I wonder?) with my head where the transfer case used to be. Nice line of sight up along the transmission to the bell housing bolts. (come to think of it, if you don't tip the motor back I dunno how you'll get to them all). I fed a couple long extensions with the torx socket right up the line of sight and spun them out.

NOTE: Check my post, but as I recall the 2 bolts that are at the very top of the bell housing are NOT the same size head as the rest of them. I think they were a size smaller, so if you blindly crank the slightly too big torx socket you used on the others can round those puppies off and bring much grief to yer world!

Good luck.

hey civ,
thanks for the post! I've been going thru your thread and plan to do exactly as you did (along with Davids advice) Bentley arrives today. Trans wont be here til monday, so probably will pull it out tomorrow if things work out.

I'll update after Im done with removal, and see if we can get a nice how-to for others to follow

borrowed from another thread:

Reposting this info in here as well.
***
I should warn that this repair is not for the faint of heart, you should be somewhat mechanically inclined, and grasp somewhat of an understanding. I'm not saying it's particularly difficult but know what you are getting yourself into.

This is hardly a DIY guide, but my experiences.

Working underneath the X5 was a bit of a pain, but Air Tools helped tremendously on the exhaust and assorted other nuts or bolts, I did have to invest into a transmission floor jack for about four hundred something dollars, but I'll probably end up selling that once I'm done. My biggest word of advice is you HAVE TO TAKE YOUR TIME, otherwise you'll end up creating more headache for yourself, having a friend help you pass the time helps too (plus beer), I found it particularly boring, so it helped to have a friend help/occupy me. My girlfriend just ended up distracting me.... lol

Take the engine cover off in the engine bay, remove the HVAC ducting in the engine bay, this will help you gain access to the top of the transmission to undo the bolts at top. Disconnect sway bar, place transmission jack on transmission, undo transmission brace, unplug everything, go slow and everything worked out pretty good for me. I hope you have a good memory to remember where all the plugs and assorted nuts of bolts go.

At that point I removed the torque converter and undid the bolts in the bell housing to slowly pull apart the rest of the transmission. It's crucial that you are able to spots signs of failure as not all failures are internally the same, a couple x5world'ers already noted slight variances in their failures compared to mine.

Ha - yeah I'd forgotten about the sway bar ......... since I did it with the X sitting on its wheels it was a royal pain.

I didn't access anything from the top in the engine bay.

Looks like you are getting some good advice. The sway bar shares mounting points with the aluminum splash pan.

I used a harbor freight transmission Jack - a scissor lift style. About $70 with the coupons.
model 61232, rated to 450 lbs. it wasn't the greatest, but is very compact and the mechanical design seems more intrinsically safe...

Wow thats a lot. I rebuilt my 5hp24 for less than $500 including the fluid.

You will have to remove the front skid plate and sway bar also, so prepare for that.

I used a 2 ton aluminum floorjack and made a transmission adapter to get it out and back in.

For the top 4 bolts I used an impact and about 4-5 feet of extentions. You should have more room on the 3 liter but I havent done my 3.0 yet (But I will soon to replace the shift sleeves) so I'm not completely sure.

It's a lot compared to DIY, but about the same as local places and even close to what some places are asking for used ones. But it would be a complete factory rebuild.

From what I recall, it came pre-filled with the pricey fluid and with a rebuilt torque converter, too.

Yeah, the only thing I didnt do was the torque converter.

bought the HF tranny jack as well. Not sure if I'll start today or not.

I'd love to take pics and document, I just never have the patience

I encourage you to snap pics. In my case I had a family vacation get in the way (note the X5 job was not allowed to get in the way of vacation!), thus stretching out the time factor.

The pics were a nice little reverse sequence, not just what goes where and hardware orientation, but since it was all taken with an iPad, I just swiped "backwards" as I mosey'd along, like my own little "what's next" guide.

I did a couple other things, too. I swiped all the wife's ziplock sammich bags and a sheet or 3 of peel and stick labels from work. All hardware was thus oriented.

For virtually all small hardware under the car - exhaust, other odds and ends, I took the handy bag down the the toy store, er I mean hardware store, and bought stainless steel fasteners to replace the old ones.

I didn't do that with structural stuff like the crossmember bolts or bell housing bolts, just the little stuff.

so work will begin tomorrow morning.

I'm not sure the condition of transfer case chain. Should I pop it open and check for play? Never had any issues at all. With over 200k on the car, I imagine theres no way its original

so, this is definitely a long process. Everything back together. just need to
reinstall muffler, stiffening pan, and couple things in engine bay.

the bentley uses a 3.0 X5 why oh why as the majority are 4.4L, but thats fine. It sounds like the v8 is easier. But you need the Bentley manual.

Couple thoughts to go with the Bentley manual.
1. for the front driveshaft, you need to push it back some to get clearance to removed the front giubo and straightening plate. Removal is easy, as you remove the transfer case, and just pull it out. However, to reinstall, you need to do the front driveshaft at the same time you reinstall the TC. So support the transfer case, install driveshaft, then screw in transfer case. If you follow the Bentley steps, you will not be able to remove the driveshaft
2. As civdiv stated, you can lower the transmission slowly and sit in the transmission tunnel to access upper bolts. Not too bad at all. One or two of them are difficult to get to (left side facing front), so use a 1/4 ratchet with the E12 socket. You definitely need the HF scissor style jack to make this job go easier
3. Make sure to line up the torque converter with the engine! otherwise youll do the job twice (ask me how I know). so line it up (mark where the hole is on engine side, rotate the TC to line up, then push together. Screw TC bolts in before mounting the transmission. Rotating the crankshaft pulley to line up TC bolts was probably one of the more annoying parts of the process.


I'll post the one big thing I did once completed tomorrow. Gotta make sure it works first

Cool.

Were those top 2 bell housing bolts different size heads? I think I always wondered if that is typical or was just "lucky me" on that.

Hmmm, I referenced some sort of manual when I did mine that I downloaded, and it was for a v8. Its strange about the Bentley not having the procedure for a v8 since it does vary.

For the front driveshaft, I found it easier to remove both the trans and the xfer case as one unit, then seperate them when it's on the ground. The same went for when I put it in, I put them together before putting it up in the car.

I made an adjustable transmission adapter to fit into my floor jack. I did the same thing, had my head in the driveshaft tunnel and got to the top bolts with long extensions.

I suppose I could have told you about lining up the TQ with the flex plate, I had to redo it too. I must have knocked it a couple inches during reassembly, and I tried to only unthread the bolts and make a gap to line them up, but I couldn't get it to budge without pulling it back off again. Did you have any help? I had a buddy rotate the crank pulley for me while I stayed underneath to do all the bolts. There were only 4, so that was nice.

Glad you got it all back together man.


Did you rebuild or replace the trans?

i think the bolts were all the same on mine, including the top 2, but the engine was out recently. but they are definitely the same size as far
as diameter. E12 heads

I considered removing trans and TC as one unit as well, but it seems
everyone removed them separately - its definitely lighter of course.

But I've been working solo, so even lifting the muffler at this point is heavy.
gonna use trans jack to hold it up there and screw it on.

I did not mess with the motor mounts. they are a pain to get to, and I think
they will survive the lowering without problem. The 3.0, maybe not. but my
mounts are new

I bought a used one, and am gonna rebuild the other one when I get time.

Kind of excited to break open the transmission - something Ive never done

FWIW, I built an electric car out of a 94 eclipse. that engine and trans
were a heck of a lot lighter:)

My top 2 were smaller too, so lucky us. Homestly chams were probably also and maybe he just got lucky he didn't strip them?

I don't even know how I could have gotten to all the bolts holding the transfer ok with it up in the car, it was hard enough down on the ground haha.

I know how you feel, I worked solo too except for the crank rotating part. I just got lucky at the time my friend was in the shop working on his jeep.

I didn't mess with the mounts either.

Dude, the exhaust is heavy, solo or not. :thumbup:

Post pics of the electric car!

You can download the zf manual for the transmission, don't buy it. I bought all my parts from thectsc.com. They are an authorized dealer.

exhaust in. Used tranny jack to push it up. easy peasy. been buttoning up wires
for O2 sensors etc. Ran out of time. Tomorrow AM stiffening plate goes on, and we see if it blows up or not :)


heres some pics of electric car
Motor Compartment Photo by chamilun | Photobucket

I'll chime in that thectsc.com is a good place to buy transmission stuff. Fast service and fair prices.

Congrats on getting it done on your own!

Yeah, and if you need something they dont have listed, then you can call them and they will list it for you and send you the link. They did that for me for the oil tubes, and a piston that I broke because I dropped it.

Thanks man. Good to see you also have experience with the company too.