MD glad to hear the old x5 is still running well. How many miles do you have on it now?

Door handle drivers door. A little help from anybody that's fixed before would be appreciated. Inside handle operates. Outside handle does nothing also doesn't retract fully.

Heard a loud "snap" when shutting door last night and interferes with central locking.

Sometimes the doors wouldn't lock when using the key for example. That behavior has been for months so I've been expecting door handle failure for a while. I can pretty much repair anything so if it's possible to re-engineer and fix I will go that route. Example: http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...039b1435cd.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...2e32818492.jpg
That's a "discontinued" part from an ice maker. The cam that operates the "is the bucket full" lever. Re-engineered to have a steel screw vs a thin layer of plastic.

I also want to fix the window operator on the driver door its 30% slower than all other windows so some feedback on the likely cause. Does it just need some proper lubrication or a new motor or what?

Since I have to take the door apart I want to fix both at the same time.

The door still operates properly and I can key lock/unlock but have for months felt some undue resistance when using the key. The outside door handle doesn't work but the auto down with remote or key does so for now I can enter using the inside handle. I need to fix before the remote would stop working or the key jams and I can't get in.

For the slow window it does just seem like its fighting resistance like worn rail or no lubricant. Any experience with lubricating bringing it back to life?



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What's broken on your E53 today!
 

Wife's wiper transmission linkage. Busted where the plastic part goes into the metal tube. The right side wiper blade would wobble maybe 20° twist each wipe with a really unfriendly clunk each time.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...121ca59bfc.jpg
This shows the part where it was severed

Follow from my finger left: the black part is supposed to go into the tube I'm holding.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...53e9656dc5.jpg
Here I've added a steel angle. I drilled 3 through holes. One near the broken joint and in the plastic part and two through the steel tube.

I cut the angle so I could have a little extra support wrap around the bearing sleeve knuckle.

Long story short brought the part back to life In about two hours of monkeying around with zero cost. It's a $400-550 part new oem and God only knows what a stealer would charge in labor to install.

I've seen the part used for $75 eBay with no motor but wow that looks like a lot of work. The part with motor is $200 typical used but could be just as worn out and ready to break as mine.

I may do some preventive maintenance on my copy of the x5 as there is a clear weak point in the design right there. A few solid wraps with some hockey friction tape or some banding with a hose clamp would double the strength of that joint.

https://vimeo.com/137674326

The video plays even if the preview says still preparing.

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Lumba2 (wife's x5): the handle for the trunk floor popped off in my hand.

Design defect: the tapered "pop in" hinge posts are not long enough. They aren't worn they just pull out of the holes too easy.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...40ba1a6bf4.jpg

I cut off the less than useful old posts

https://vimeo.com/137856550

(It's a "little like cheating" to use a band saw I know)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...6a2986a58c.jpg
Drilled the hole in the post to a depth of 6mm

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...b5d4e27bed.jpg
Looks like this after

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...0645f5bcda.jpg
Then put in a 6mm long M3 screw. Oh important fact: use a 7/64 drill and it magically works in plastic as if tapped for 3mm. It's the perfect way to fix any plastic part you can assemble with a screw. Been using that trick for a decade or more.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...b290a034b4.jpg
From the side of the fixed part. About 20x as strong as new.


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awsome idea, Ive never had an issue with mine but you never know.

Thanks. I will check out mine soon and may actually use a solid rod vs. the two screws. The LAST thing you need when the car gets a flat in a slush storm and 27° outside is that damn handle breaks off and can't get to the spare. (A tip for if it does happen to you: remove the two side panels and your fingers can grip the edge to lift)


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Looks like I need new battery. Planning to get H8 AGM. Will check Costco, Walmart and Advance Auto Parts for best pricing tomorrow.

Over the weekend tried to get it tested at local parts stores:
Autozone tested the battery at the terminals under hood and said it's bad, replace.

Advance Auto Parts tested at terminals under hood and their unit couldn't test, was giving error "Ensure no load on battery". Everything was off though.

Pepboys wanted me to go to Service department, I said no thank you :)

Adaptive lighting on one side :(
I pulled the air filter to get a good look inside the back of the light cluster and there are quite a few wires where the insulation has crumbled off in the intense heat in this country - so I ask myself, so I want to spend time finding which part is faulty, replace the entire lamp cluster, or have the little green light flashing whenever the headlamps are on...

Perhaps I'm the freak today.
But except for the radio pixels.
Absolutely everything is working perfectly.
I'm lucky I guess.

Ugh! Tstat stuck open. Leak in the Ac system.


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