TIMING CHAIN NIGHTMARE
 

Hi guys. I am new to the BMW seen and boy have I picked a doosey . I got a good deal on my 01 x5 4.4 knowing it had a timing issue that the previous owner did not want to pay to have repaired. I researched m62 timing issues and was fully aware of what I was getting my self into but after opening it up today I find that it was far worse than I had imagined. The shutter plate was loose spinning freely, the center guide was broken with absolutely no liner, the right guide was completely destroyed with the only 2" of it left. 3 out of the four cams are of at least 10 deg and this is just the beginning of what I have found. Does any one know how much clearance the valves have before they hit the piston? I have decided I am willing to tackle the challenge and willing to take any advise you guys have to offer. I am posting some pics so you all can see what I am up against. I just don't understand Why people continue to drive there cars knowing they have a major component failure.

Valves might have been tagged already. Did you do a compression test? Maybe better to replace the engine. Do a compression test and if any of the readings are low, maybe better to cut your losses and part it out.

Only kind of a good deal for a car like that is if he gave you the car for free.

I did a compression test and cyl #4 was low but the cam position is so far off that it would hard to say whether it is the valve or the cam position. I found another motor with 150k for $600 but what's to say the guides are good on that motor. I have the parts for the repair I think I'll take a gamble and hope for the best.

If you know the cam timing is out, don't turn the motor over.

About time those heads came off for a proper inspection. Anything less than that is a shortcut.

Yeh.. I here that. Funds are getting low. Spent $700 so far not including the cam locks and vanos timing tools.

You do know that you can rent those right?

I called "GAS" and they put me on a waiting list. Could be two to four weeks maybe longer. I'm thinking I'll buy one and try to sell it later. The SnapOn guy comes by the shop every week maybe he could sell it for me. Do you know anywhere else that rents them?

That is quiet the wait. You might try these guys as well.

Bimmer Tool Rental :: Rentals

I tried them as well but they get there's directly from "GAS".

These guys rent bmw specific tools.

Specialty Auto Tool Rentals

Just checked their site and the only have 2004 and after N62 tools. Thanks "upallnight" for the lead tho. that is an impressive list of cars you have owned. which one did you like the best?

My Lotus was the first exotic car that I brought when I got out of college. That's why I kept my two Lotus all these years. I love the G35 that I picked up earlier this year. Handle almost as nice as the Lotus, but a lot more power and comfort. Has almost the same engine and suspension setup like a 350z or GTR.

The Porsche is a nice car for the Spring and Fall with the Targa top removed. The BMW is just a Sport Activity vehicle for hauling our sport equipments around from the jetski, jet boat, kayak, bikes, and ski and snowboard equipment.

Having done this job on an E38 740i, which has the same engine, I can offer you some advice: The job is totally doable if you have the tools and patience. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN SETTING THE TIMING UPON REASSEMBLY. If you haven't already, go to this site and read the tutorial for performing the VANOS repair.

Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure

You may not need to actually perform the VANOS repair, but the instructions for setting the timing are very detailed and accurate. Much better than I could find anywhere else. My only problem is that the layout is a little hard to follow. So I copied/pasted it all into a PDF that's easier to follow. Hit me up on PM and I can email a copy to you.

If you're comfortable taking apart a very complex engine and can follow the instructions, there no reason you can't do this job.

Thanks "BimmerM3inGA" I was beginning to think that nobody on this site had the balls to tackle this job. I had found and printed the link you forwarded me when I first started researching how to do the timing, it has good info and great pics. This a little intimidating to do but that's mostly because I have spent most of my life working on domestic vehicles and this is my first BMW. I am 46 and have never had to take any of my vehicles to the mech shop and this will not be the first! Looking forward to the challenge!! If I have any questions maybe I can PM you?

cant be worse than the ones in this engine. I'd almost go ahead and buy that engine to be honest. at the least, you could frankenstein one good engine from the two and then sell the extra parts on ebay or craigslist.

get that engine over and open it up, if it looks good, close it back up and toss it in and then part out the original one. then flip the car.

Well, this isn't what I would categorize as a typical DIY job. It's definitely not for the faint of heart. Modern BMW engines are complex, but not anything exotic. I was intimidated by the job at first, too. I have torn down plenty of BMW I6 engines, but had never done any major work on a V8. And it has very little in common with the 6's.
But if you have experience with mechanical work, which it sounds like you do, then you should be able to handle it.

You said you already have the parts. But you may want to take a look at ecstuning.com because they have a comprehensive kit (item #ES2526337) which includes all the parts you'll need including all the little gaskets and seals. The only thing not included in the kit that I'd recommend you also replace are the camshaft sealing rings. You need 6 of them - 3 for each cam. They are part #11311705512 and the instructions on the Beisan site mention replacing them, but they are not in the kit.

If you're thinking about buying a Bentley manual to help with the job, I can save you 100 bucks. This procedure isn't covered in the manual. Why, Bentley?

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. It's been a few months since I did the job, but it's still pretty fresh. Plus, I think I might be about to do it again with my 2002 X5 4.6is.

Why don't you guys meet?! It's only 3.5 hr drive:D

I am in the same boat with my 4.6. No symptoms yet but I don't want to wait until there are. I would have already tackled the job but my concern is based on how critical it is to get the timing right---will I have any doubt that it is spot on before I button it up and start it up?

It has to be exactly spot-on. The engine will run without damage if it's off a bit, but you'll have a rough idle and it will throw codes to activate the Check Engine light. So you'll have to open it back up and redo the timing.

If you follow the Beisan instructions to the letter and pay very close attention to the final cam timing, it will be correct. It's kind of hard to describe out of context, but there is a way to verify that the timing is correct prior to buttoning it up. With all the fixtures still in place, you rotate the intake cam counterclockwise manually to the fully retarded position and measure how much the rear cam locking block lifts off the head. Anything more than 1mm is too much. Again, it doesn't make much sense out of context, but it's pretty clear when you're actually looking at it. As long as you have that measurement within spec, you'll have no doubt that the timing is spot on. But of course, you want to rotate the engine by hand through several revolutions - just to make sure!

FWIW, unless you know for sure that the chain guides are broken you don't HAVE to do this job. What I plan to do on my 4.6is is to monitor them and only open up the engine if I see evidence of the guides failing. The Bank 1 valve cover gasket is leaking pretty badly, and it's also due for an oil change. So, my plan is to remove the lower oil pan when I change the oil. If there are bits of plastic in the pan, I'll know it needs new guides. I'll also visually inspect the guides when I change the valve and timing cover gaskets. And then I'll remove the oil pan every time I change the oil. If/when I start seeing pieces of the guides in the pan I'll replace them.

I remove my oil pan every other time just for peace of mind...

I hope you never see a baseball size debri like what was in my oil pan , not including what I found sitting just inside the lower timing cover. When I drained the oil it was the blackest oil I have ever seen because of all the guides that had been chewed into bits. The previous owners must of been wearing ear plugs when they drove the car , it must have sounded like a diesel.
" BimmerM3inGA" is the writing on the square end of the cams suppose to be up?

I think I know the answer to this but I need to be sure. If the nut that holds the shutter plate and the bolt that the nut goes on is loose , would the cam turn when the engine is running? I don't think it would but not sure.

Recently I changed the chain tensioner to the longer revised tensioner. Original tensioner was weak. I have the pan gasket to pull the pan and see if there is anything scary in there. The reason I think I should bite the bullet and do the job is because of all the engine mods I have done and I am concerned about a vanos going bad. I get the pucker factor when I hit it down. I hadn't thought of removing the pan each oil change, that's a great plan.

I've read the Beisan instructions several times. They are very good but I'm not good at understanding instructions unless I am turning wrenches while reading.

Here is a link to some videos I found helpful in understanding Vanos maybe they could be useful for you also. The more you know about it ,the less intimidating it becomes.
https://www.youtube.com/user/EuroAut...ch?query=vanos

bcredliner: VANOS failure won't result in a meltdown. Just a lot of noise and a crappy idle. I'd be more concerned about a stretched and loose timing chain than the VANOS. I know what you mean about the instructions just being academic until you actually start turning wrenches. It's the same for me!

If you do decide to pull the trigger on the timing chains and guides, it would be wise to do the VANOS at the same time. Even if they don't need it. You have to take all that stuff apart anyway, so you might as well take care of that at the same time. The rebuild kit is kind of pricey, and the seals are not nearly as easy to replace as on the I6. But it's still a hell of a lot less work than having to come back and do it later…

JAX01X5:Yes, the markings on the square (rearmost) end of the cams face up with the crank at top dead center for cylinder #1. FYI, cylinders 1-4 are on the passenger side with 1 at the front and 4 at the back. 5-8 are on the driver side with 5 at the front.

The shutter plate ("timing wheel" in BMW-speak) is held on by that reverse-threaded nut. If the nut is loose, the cam position sensor won't know where the cam is, but the cam will still turn with the chains. That nut isn't what secures the cam to the sprocket.

When I bought my 740i, the racket from the engine was unreal. It sounded like a diesel with a screwdriver loose in the crankcase. It had the triple-whammy of totally disintegrated chain guides, stretched chains and the VANOS death rattle. And the car only had less than 150K miles. There was a handful of plastic debris in the oil pan. In hindsight, it was probably unwise for me to have driven it the 10 miles to my house after I bought it. I should have trailered it. But I took it easy on the drive and I guess I got lucky.

I am concerned my 150 shot of nitrous will cause a meltdown if anything even a vanos is not working properly. That was the reason to go in and then do the timing guides at the same time. Working backward, but yes, I am more concerned about the timing chain. I had a rough idle and thought it was a vanos problem.

Thanks, BimmerM3inGA. I new about the nut but the bolt is also very loose and I don't think the Bank#1 intake cam would turn without the bolt being tight. They were so loose that the nut and bolt where resting against the upper timing cover and the shutter plate was so loose it had been spinning against the CPS . I believe that this is the reason that the car did not run, aside from the timing chain guides. "loose bolt would cause the cam not to turn"." loose nut would cause improper signal from CPS". Do you all agree?

Yes, you are correct. If the center bolt in the camshaft was loose, then the sprocket will not spin the cam. If that's the case, there's a nearly 100% chance you've had piston-to-valve contact if the engine was running when it came loose, or if anyone tried to start the engine.

Before spending any time/money replacing the timing chains and guides, I would determine the condition of the intake valves in that bank. Then you have to make a judgment call on whether or not you want to fix it. If you just want to do it for the challenge and learning experience without regard to the overall value of the car relative to the cost of the repair, then go for it. Especially if you got the car really cheap and just want to experiment on it.

If it were me and I decided to go ahead with the repair, I would not yank the engine. That is a HUGE FREAKING JOB and there's no guarantee that the newer engine is any better than the one you already have. I would jump on eBay and find myself a new cylinder head. I haven't looked, but I'd be willing to bet it would less expensive than that replacement engine, and a hell of a lot less work to swap out. I'd find a complete head with valves and cams and call it a day. As long as the pistons don't have huge gouges, or god forbid, any holes in them, they'll be okay to leave in service if they're a little beaten up.

Or, if a complete head does cost more, I'd buy that other engine but just swap the parts I needed and not the entire thing.

Since you can't do a compression test without fixing the timing problems, your path of least resistance might be to pull that head and see what you're dealing with. Then, based on the condition of the inside of the head, decide how you want to proceed.

I am probably going to pull the head although I noticed that none of the cam lobes are compressing the lifters except for one and it is barely on the lifter which makes me think that the valves have not been tagged. I know that it is not absolute but it does make me feel better about it.

Maybe you got lucky and nothing happened. I certainly hope so!

You may know this already, but the head bolts are one-time use only. If you do pull the head, order a new set of head bolts.

Just thought I would post a little update. I received My cam timing kit yesterday and this morning decided to finish my tear down and start my rebuild.The first two pics are what was left of my timing chain guides and the rest are what I was able to get accomplished , thanks to the cam lock kit I bought from German Auto Solutions. I recommend this kit too anyone who is attempting this type repair. It is durable, accurate and very easy to use. Hopefully over the next couple of weekends I will have it running...:D

Good work! You don't seem to be having any trouble finding your way around that furrin' engine. :)

What was your measurement of a stretched chain vs a new one?

I'm sure there's an official measurement out there somewhere. But I just compared the old chain to the new one.

When visibly comparing the chain stretch was it a fairly large difference? I feel like when this is discussed more details would help. Bummer measurements weren't taken.

Sorry I wasn't more scientific with the measurement. In hindsight, I should have been more precise. It was not a huge difference when I compared the new chain to the old one for the 740i project, but it was noticeable. In that particular instance, there was visible damage to the primary chain from it rubbing on other engine internals. That was the prime motivating factor for replacing it (again, in this particular instance).

I think I still have the old chain in my junk drawer. If I do, I'll take some measurements. But like I said stretching, while a consideration, was not the primary reason for replacing the chain in this particular engine in this particular car.

With regard to the car being discussed in this thread, I would be worried about a stretched and loose chain due to the obvious beating this one has taken and the prior neglect. How much stretch is too much? That's a question I would like to know the answer to!

Good deal! :thumbup:

Planning to take measurements when I do guides (and chains) at 200k. I wonder if the guys at Dinan or VAC have knowledge on M62 chain stretch from their racing programs.

Well got it all back together and runs like crap.I know I set the timing correctly I was very maticulous about it! Won't even stay running at all. put a scanner on it code is "Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit High Input Bank 2". So I swaped the one from bank 2 to bank 1 to see if the problem would follow. No such luck,scanner still says the problem is in bank 2. Could both cmp be defective? Could it be the ECM ? Going to salvage yard on Saturday,they are having all you can carry for $40. I am going to pull both complete heads and the ECM . Does anyone know the location of the ECM? Is there anything else I should pull while I'm there?

I know you were concerned about possibly having some bent valves. Did you check them? That wouldn't explain the CPS code, but it would explain the poor running and stalling.

If you can get a set of heads for $40, that'd be a hell of a bargain!

Should of changed the VANOS while you were doing this job. Other than that.. good job! love it.

I'm about to pull both heads of and replace the valves , seals and the vanos. Should have done it the first time around but decided to take a gamble , which did not pay off. Won't be as difficult this time since I won't have to pull the lower timing cover , which is a "PITA"
Start taring it down next weekend..
Any one know where to buy vanos cheap?

If you buy complete heads, won't they include the VANOS? If not, you can rebuild the ones you already have. In fact, that's what I'd do. Even if I bought complete heads with the VANOS, I'd rebuild them anyway since you don't their history and it's a lot easier to do while it's already taken apart.

Yep, Just dont go OEM Vanos since BMW used the wrong material in them. New Vanos..better powerm, better mileage and quiet engine. You guys are lucky in America You guys can purchase from Dr.Vanos, MrVanos etc etc. Fully built..balanced and assembled. Here in Australia we have no one.

Done some shopping and here are the results...

Dr Vanos $290 each after core return includes shipping
Vanosman $100 each you send yours in for rebuild
Beisan $110 for "BOTH" you do it yourself this price includes the tools needed to make the repair.

Beisan seems the way to go, you now own the tools to do the repair or Vanosman for $200. What do you guys think? Do you know of any other options?

I went with the Beisan kit for my E38 740i. You do need the special tools to crimp the edges of the VANOS, though. If you have them already, it's the best solution. I also think you can rent them from Beisan.

Do yourself a favor and order an extra seal. You can return it for a refund if you don't use it, but I ruined one learning how to install them. It would have sucked if I had to stop and wait for a replacement had I not ordered an extra.

I 've done the vanos repair on 3 M62 engines to date using the Besian kit. This is super easy to repair if you just follow their directions. Took care of the vanos tractor noise on 3 of the M62 equipped BMWs.

sorry to hear, that happened to me, the last owner drove it into the ground, 16 of my valves were bent.
http://i.imgur.com/tspU8HS.jpg

replaced them with these
http://i.imgur.com/p9gPhn8.jpg

Good Luck!

Are you talking about the press? I plan on buying everything they say you need for the repair. It seems to be the cheapest way to go plus you get the tool which is always good to have.

Wow!! Were any of the pistons damaged ?

Yes, I'm talking about the press. You have to crimp the edge of the VANOS cylinder to complete the repair. That's what the press is for.

Man, those are some effed up valves!

Surprisingly not at all. One piston had a little bit of a vavle stamp on it. But cleaned it all up and looked like new still. I think these sodium filled (poppet)valves are probably fairly soft at the stem. It likely saved major piston damage. I just shook my head the entire time why someone continued to drive even though the chain ate through the front cover. Would I do it all again? No. Lol

70,000km later at 331,000km still redlining all day long though.

Was that a 4.4 or a 4.6 frank?

I think the longer stroke on a 4.6 would not be as friendly lol

Either way love some gnarly pics!

I have a 4.4, found a couple more old pics on my phone from when I bought her.

x5 bent valves

Well I removed the intake and found more issues The CCV cap and diaphragm is completely missing and the oil separator drain is dry rotted.
Can the oil separator be cleaned out and reused? Does anyone know the best place to by the CCV ?
Should I replace the Knock sensors while I am in there or do they go bad that often?

Do it all while your there. I would. Goodluck mate, Please Add more pictures with your update. :) Thanks

I would definitely change the knock sensors on this vehicle after seeing the neglect imposed on this X5's motor. I assume this vehicle also has high mileage? You have this engine ripped all the way down you do not want to put it back together and then find out that you have a bad knock sensor. With 4 in the engine one is bound to go.

BimmerM3inGA , Do you remember how you removed the D/S exhaust manifold. I could not reach the nuts for the manifold so I took the two nuts off the manifold/exhaust pipe junction thinking I could lift the head off with the manifold. No such luck. I had too rotate the head as much as possible to access the manifold nuts, only then was I able to remove the head. I do not want too put it back in that way because I will most likely damage the new head gasket. Do you have any suggestions ?

Definatley attach the exhaust manifold to the head first and lift it onto the block that way. When lifting a helper would be handy but I managed to do it myself that way.

swissfrank , It appeared that the motor mount was in the way from me being able to remove it. Did it cause a problem for you?

Nope just disconnect the two bolt per bank that connect the manifold to the down pipe and maybe a little wiggling they go.in and out quite easy. Twomsets of hands definitely make it a lot easier. Pic showing the manifold attached to the head either when I pulled it out or put it back in. http://http://i.imgur.com/NHQj07K.jpg

That's a pic of the P/S I am speaking about the D/S . not that it matters if you say you got it in and out I'll try putting it back in that way , It might go in easier then it comes out.

I didn't pull the heads when I did the work on the 740. So unfortunately, I don't have any tips for you. But the suggestion that swissfrank made seems logical.

JAX01X5/ Tried to send you a private message with a question but it disappeared on me, so here it goes:
Hi again/ I've read every single one of your post hoping to find an answer on how to correct the misalignment of the camshafts. Like you, I also drove like ten miles after the symptoms of chain slides failure which resulted in a loose bolt at the intake camshaft in bank 1 destroying the camshaft.
I now have bank 1 on TDC correct, and the Intake camshaft on Bank 2 markings facing up, but the Exhaust camshaft in bank 2 is off like 45 degrees. Weather I move it clockwise or counterclockwise it is still 45 degrees off and it comes to a stop going no further. Could you share your procedure to correct this...?

The cam is coming to a stop because the valves are touching the pistons.

I had a similar problem with my 740 because I made a mistake taking it apart and got then engine badly out of time. To get it back in time, I noted the position of the crankshaft and then rotated it a little at a time by hand and then turning the cams a little at a time until I got everything lined up. It was tedious, but worked.

Thank you BimmerM3inGa for your immediate response.
This procedure should be perform with tension in chains or without...?
Moving the camshaft clockwise or counterclockwise matters...?

It helps to have enough tension on the chains to keep them from skipping on the sprockets. But I did it with no tension at all and it worked fine.

You should try to turn everything in the same direction. I don't think it matters if it's CW or CCW, as long as you turn everything the same way.

EDIT: I would turn it whichever direction is closest to TDC.

Thanks again friend. I'll try that.

You're welcome. Good luck!

If you move the crankshaft to 45 deg OT you will be able to rotate the camshaft all the way around. The Bentley manual and Beisan procedure are not totally clear on the position of the cam shafts although they both elude to the "E" AND "A" markings facing up when installing the cam locks . The G.A.S instructions make it very clear that the markings should be facing up when installing the cam locks and this is the way I did it the first time. I am almost done rebuilding my heads the first week of September and will be putting it back together at that time. I will let you know how it turned out when it is running.

Be sure to turn the crankshaft back to "TDC" before installing cam locks..

Finally had some time to get back on the "X". Heads are rebuilt and about 90% back together. Also changed the oil separator and the CCV which was completely blown apart and all the hoses to it were totally disintegrated . I have a few small vacuum hoses that I just can't figure out where they go.

Pic 1 is a hose that might be the trans vent but don't no where it hooks up
Pic 2 "A" is an empty vacuum connection on the back of the CCV
Pic 3 "B" no idea where it goes
Pic 4 "C" comes of the back of CCV but don't no where it goes

If anyone knows where these go I could use the help and I can finish the job and have it running Monday morning.

update .....
"A" is suppose to be capped off.
"B" goes to "C"
Still need to know where the crank case vent hose goes and the "what I assume is the trans vent" goes..
By the way the Bentley service is completely useless when it comes to vacuum lines.

Front differential and transmission vents stay the way you find them right now,leave them like that.

Pic 1: Front differential vent. OK as is. Don't cap it off - it's a vent.
A: Plugs into B. You will need a piece of vacuum hose to connect (B) to (A). BTW, that black plastic canister in the photo for (B) is in the wrong place. It mounts further forward.
C: Off the top of my head, I believe that goes to a fitting that sits on top of Bank 1. If you can't figure it out, let me know. I'm going to be pulling the plastic engine cover off my 4.6 later today and can take a photo.

Thanks "BimmerM3inGA" and "diyanich". BimmerM3inGA "C" will not reach the fitting on top of bank 1. If you could check it out when you take your cover and take a pic that would be great , just to be sure. The right hand fitting "A" on the back of my original CCV was plugged off , can you confirm that also please?

I think the steel line for the oil separator that goes into block is gummed up on the lower half . I want to remove it from the block and clean it out but I'm not sure if it is above or below the oil level. Do you guys know?

I'm going to be hunting a vacuum leak on my 4.6 and will have the engine cover off. I'll take some photos and post later today.

I also just fixed a vacuum leak on my 740 (also an M62TÜ) and replaced both lines on the back of the CCV. Now that I think about it, maybe (C) goes to (B). And (A) goes to the fitting on the intake boot (near the throttle body). I'll double check and get back to you.

So it turns out that the 740 and X5 do not use the exact same vacuum hose setup:

On my X5, "A" is capped off.

"C" connects to "B".

And yes, the Bentley manual is useless when it comes to things like this.

The CCV is also a lot harder to access on the X5. There is more stuff in the way than with the 740.

Thanks for all your help, I think I got it . Done for today, going to put the radiator, hoses etc..in tomorrow and fire it up around noon time. Can't wait , I haven't even heard it run yet, don't know what else I will find wrong but at least I know here won't be any engine trouble.

That first turn of the key is always a tense moment. But I'm sure it'll be fine with as much work as you've put into it! Good luck, and be sure to report back how it goes.

Ok, So here it goes. Started up great ran for 30 min just fine. shut it down for 15 min , started it back up ran ruff , scanner says p0011 code bank "1". I had a second set of can sensors, changed them out code was still there. I had an extra vanos solenoid , changed it out problem went away and purred like a kitten. Shut it down and started back up and P0011 on bank "2" . So I am assuming the vanos solenoid on bank "2" is sticking or defective. I will have to order a new pair of solenoids and change them out.
Just a thought Is it possible that the Vanos piston is sticking since the seals are new?
Couple other small issues , D/S valve cover gasket is leaking which really don't surprise me since it kept trying to fall out while I was installing the cover, so I will have to replace that again.
Condensor fan not working , maybe the Bentley manual can help with the diag but first I need to get the engine running properly.

Two steps forward, one step back. I feel ya, brother!

Did you follow the step described in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be

I have over advanced codes for both banks,but it runs smooth except for the 30 seconds or so starting 5 seconds after the cold start.VANOS are rattling.

I don't remember reading or I missed that part and don't really want to go through it all again,but did you use Beisan seals?

I have to open it up again for the re–timing or at least adjusting the CPS wheels,but since it's running just fine,it makes me lazy to touch something for now.Check engine light is annoying though.

Aux fan stopped working well after the timing chain DIY.It still works but I would say a bit lazily.
I am wondering if there's some ground or some other connection problem.Because if I unplug and plug it back,it always starts with the A/C and spins a bit when I crank it after sitting overnight and then it stops doing that,but I can hear it once in a while.
If there a code 32 or 33 ( I don't remember well which number) in INPA?

Yes, I used Beisan seals also used the Beisan procedure for timing . I also read the G.A.S procedure which is where I bought my timing tools and they take it a step further by turning the motor over after setting the "CPS wheels and set them again. I find the tech in the video stating that if you remove the plug and insert a 5 mm allen and if it passes thru you are all set to be ridiculous. There is so much room for error in that statement . It is a good reference point but not exact. If that were true why would you need to buy special tools for timing.
My problem is in the VANOS solenoid sticking after acceleration and allowing the Vanos to stay in the advanced position. changing the Solenoid should fix that problem.

I have 12V+ and - at the fan connector and I also get about a one second signal from the DME to the fan and starts to move and then I loose the DME signal . I think but not sure that the DME senses a motor failure and no longer sends the impulse signal.

I don't have INPA software yet but will have it soon. Trying to figure out the best place to buy it..

Would like a copy
 

I am starting the process and could really use a copy you pasted together. My email is [email protected].

Thanks in advance

Per his posting You need to PM this guy for the instructions that you seek.

The link to Beisan is a good one. I have attached a video for visual help from Youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io6eBHjwf1g

I went through this last year. The seals are all Reinz. I also used the Besian procedure. If you look at the front timing chain cover with the valve covers off, is it even with the head. With the new seal sometimes it wont squash down and it will stick up a millimeter which throws the cam sensor off by that mm and throw the code. Both banks need to be within 12 degrees of the crank shaft rotation. The front covers need to be loose when installing the valve covers. I tightened the valve cover then the front cover and still had that mm. Once I accounted for that mm on the wheel it went into time. It only has to be adjusted a very small bit. If the hole matches up with the factory inspection hole just move it a small bit. I moved the wheel about 4-5 mm the first time when it should have been the one mm or less. That was my problem.

I find that when I do timing covers with new seals I uses a screw driver through the cam sensor hole to apply set pressure of the cover and tighten the bolts down so all lines up perfectly. Works every time.

That's a simple way. Nice and easy info.

I have changed chains and guides last winter. I had similar problems as you got. As some people above have mentioned, set the cps sensor per the hole in the upper timingcovers. Sorted my codes out


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