Please don't connect battery terminal directly. If coil is short circuited it will spark and possibly melt you test wire. I would use at least 14 gauge wire and inline 15 amp fuse.

Thanks for the link. I had read it a few times before. Just was not sure my compressor is bad or something else is the problem.

So the clutch is bad. I guess there is not a lot of harm in at least trying to bypass the fuse, get A/C working and then decide I want to live with it or order a new compressor. I will try to do it without removing the whole compressor.

You can do it on the car with the proper tools as I did it. My only concern is that plastic burnt smell when it broke. Take the clutch front plate and bearing off and visually inspect clutch coil. Use your judgement when attempting thermal fuse bypass. Post pictures of the components and I will try to help.

Listen to upallnight on this one. That looks like the later variable compressor (Calsonic Kansei). Not the single speed Denso. The OP should confirm the voltage needed to actuate it and not rush to test it with 12V. I have the early Denso single speed so can't offer any experience on testing this variant.

Based on the picture, the OPs compressor uses classic on/off clutch. It is operates on 12V clutch coil. It is an earlier model variable output compressor with internal pressure-operated mechanical controls. The new, more sophisticated compressors - clutchless. Their output electronically controlled by IHKA module and electrically controlled internal valve. Do not confuse it with the older style on/off mechanical clutch.

Could be other reasons why the clutch is not engaging, you could be low on refrigerant which is the main reason why people don't have ac. Do you have a set of manifold gauge? Do you know what type of pressure, (static in your case) that is in the system?

If you don't have the tools or knowledge, you are better off taking it in to get the ac fix, or just lower the windows.

This is great point Upallnight! All of my recommendations based on the assumption that all of the rudimentary steps already took place. I keep forgetting that a lot of members here have minimal experience with such systems as AC. I do not want fellow member ruined his AC compressor by forcing it to run without proper charge. Thanks for the reminder.

I have bought a set of manifold gauge anticipating I might need it. I will check pressure today. I thought because A/C stopped all of a suden with a bang it is not due to a leak but I will check and report back.

I don't have all tools and good knowledge which is why I am on this forum. I prefer to get educated and buy the tools even though it is a slow process. Last time I took my X to a garage was 4 years ago.

Lowering window is great advice but after doing it for 3 summer, I thought enough of reminding myself of my childhood memories :-)

I appreciate everyone's input and trying to help. This is a great forum and #1 reason I still have my X.

I measured and both sides are close to 70. Same result if engine is running and A/C on full. Temp outside was 85.

You have enough static pressure so the system is not low enough to prevent the low pressure sensor from keeping the clutch from not engaging.

If you could, I would tap the clutch pulley with a hammer. The non use of the ac system for 2 years might had caused the clutch to stick, or the air gap for the clutch might be so great that the magnetic field is not strong enough to pull the clutch in. Do not do this with the engine running. You can have the key in the run position and the ac switch on.