You can uncouple the fan connector that I showed you, and use your volt meter to test the two large wires at the connector for the harness from the car. There should be 12 volts at the two wires. If you have a blown fuse, replacing the fuse will not work until you replaced the fan. The only reason why that fuse would blow is if the fan is shorted.

Thanks. I'll try it this evening.

Here's a link to my posting on my fan replacement.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...fan-fault.html

I just checked the fan connector with the volt meter and it showed 12 volts. Could my problem be as simple as replacing a blown fuse or is fan definitely the issue?

The scan I did showed a fan fault for the AC. The fault could be in the control circuit for the fan. The DME will command the fan to spin at the beginning and stop supplying power to the fan. When a DC motor is spinning it acts like a generator so it will send a voltage back to the DME. Once the DME sees the voltage it can assume that the fan is spinning and is o.k.

The compressor was not clicking on when you where at my place. The static pressure for the low side was over 100 psi.

When I had the problem my scan showed a fan fault, and it did blow the 50 amp fuse so I definitely knew it was the fan.

I think the difference here is what signal is getting back to Ihka. The OP has a code for a bad fan and that seems to lock out the AC. If your fan fails but somehow doesn't generate the code, then you get what trader4 reports - AC works when there is some extra air flow.

I'm still having issues with my a/c as well. I followed advice, took it to an indy, and he added refrigerant. I thought all was well. It blows ice cold at first. After driving a few minutes, all the front vents just stop blowing, but my rear is still blowing cold air. If I turn it on auto they all started to blow again, but soon stopped. Again, the rear vents still blows. Any ideas?