How long do your brake pads and rotors last?
 

My indy mentioned that they usually expect rotors to last about 50k miles. Is that what you guys have experienced? My previous vehicles (Hondas and Toyotas) have gone well over 100k before needing new brakes.

I bought my X5 with about 73k miles and now have about 92k miles. About 6 months ago, I started getting a brake shimmy that has gotten worse. So during my last oil change at 90k, I had my indy diagnose the shimmy. They replaced the lower control arm bushings and found that the rotors are warped. But I held off on the brake job so that I could save up for it.

The shimmy has been getting worse so I'm getting ready to go whole hog and have them install new pads and rotors, front and rear. Along with a brake fluid flush.

For what it's worth, my indy normally uses Zimmermann rotors and Textar pads. I think I might ask them to use some Akebono ceramics because I really want longer lasting brakes.

With your application you can use and find Cool Carbon pads. I would use OE, Brembo, Centric 125 Series High Carbon Brake Rotors, or Raybestos Advanced Technology rotor blanks (no cuts or holes please), This will give you a nice cold, warm or hot bite without the heavy dust as found in OE pads. The Raybestos and Centric 125 ones have the hub powered coated a nice satin black color that will last the life of the rotor. $63-$75 each from Rockauto. Front brakes are an easy DIY 3 hrs project.

Write up on the Cool Carbon pads Cool Carbon Brake Pads Installed! (Coupon Code Included)

SPECIAL NOTE
Cool Carbon is NOT available for 4.6 or 4.8is applications, We get the big V8 and you all get the better pads. According to the factory people, no demand equals no production applications.
I am running the Power Stop Z16 Evolution; Ceramic and I am happy with the results, especially the low dust and cold first bite. Hi speeds stops have a very predictable grab and will haul down our SAV beasts with no drama over and over again.

^:iagree: with Steven, Centric rotors (coated hubs and vanes) and Cool Carbon pads.

I emailed Dave Z not too long ago and he recommended Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads for a good all around, lower dusting pad. He told me flat out although he sells Hawk Ceramic pads that he does not recommend them.

Thanks guys. What do you find in terms of longevity on these setups?

Here's an E53 review of the Cool Carbon pads.....

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...rake-pads.html

Rotor wear issue is addressed in that thread.

25 to 50K depending on YOUR driving style and conditions. I have seen OE pads last 15K and some last 45K+

Heavy braking in stop and go traffic wears more pads than the difference in between better quality pads. The cheapo ones can last longer as they have no bite what so ever or can burn away in one afternoon of mountain charges.

Your life and family are worth a LOT, DON'T skimp on brake parts.:thumbup: Check the pads at every oil or tire check as it only takes a few mins with a flashlight.

Thanks again. I definitely won't cheap out on low end stuff as I agree that brakes are super important. Looking at $1300 OTD for brakes and rotors, front and rear, plus a brake fluid flush.

Wow! DIY will run about $400.

This was an epic write up on Cool Carbon, Thanks for posting it once again. Damn wish they made them for the larger engines. I have them on my M5 and they are GREAT!

DIY write up are in the How To's section posted about. Real simple hand tools only required.

I am assuming that you are in Washington STATE not Wash DC, other wise I would have you come over for a DIY session.

I'm in WA state and can lend a hand. I have tools. pm me if you want to DIY

The pads/rotors that came new with the car lasted about 33K. The replacement sets under "free" maintenance lasted 25K. My current Zimmermann rotors/Axxis Deluxe pads setup have 48K and counting on it. Since Axxis are no longer available, I'll go with Akebono ceramics no my next set of pads. The Axxis are definitely way better with rotor wear, barely showing any rotor wears after 48K! My next brake job will most likely be pads only.

Not sure why all the raves on Cool Carbon. I have it on the coupe and not really liking them that much. Dust way too much...just a bit less than OE. I hate that it sticks to the rotors if you let the car sit after washing. These will not be on my "re-buy" list for sure.

It's not really a fair comparison. The X5 weights almost 2x as much as your Hondas and Toyotas, plus there's no engine braking in these automatic cars. FYI...I've never gotten more than 50K on a set of brakes on any of my previous Hondas and Toyotas

The carbotech brake Pads (model 1521) for the X5 work real well and emit low dust. Carbotech Performance Brakes

Sure, $400 for brakes and rotors.

+specialized tools for brake bleeding and any other odds and ends I don't have
+garage space rental
+convincing the wife to prioritize doing that on a weekend day instead of one of the other things on her "honey do" list
+more time to redo it when I inevitably screw something up
+replacement parts for the random little thing I broke while doing a job
+possibility of running into something because I didn't tighten that one nut perfectly

:nanana:

In my situation, going to a shop and parking my butt in their couch and working remotely for the day is a much cheaper and easier solution.

There's a reason I'm a computer geek and not a mechanic. My handiness only goes so far and I know my limits. Changing an air filter? Sure! Changing my oil? If I had the garage space and time, that's in my wheelhouse. Changing brakes? I did that 20 years ago in high school auto shop class but that's something I'm not about to attempt myself these days.

Appreciate the offer, guys. But I'm not going to DIY.

Thanks for this info. 175k is definitely good wear! Wonder why mine are so warped. Maybe the previous owner didn't do a good job on break in.

Looking back at the CarFax, it looks like the PO had the front and rear brake pads changed around 35k miles and the front rotors replaced around 60k. Both services at the dealership. So that is pretty close to your experience with OEM.

I'm still leaning toward the Akebonos but the Cool Carbon pads are intriguing. Interesting that you find the Cool Carbon pads so dusty. While dust isn't my primary concern, it is a concern.

My dad uses Akebonos ceramics on all of his street rods ('36 Ford Coupe, '56 F100, '39 Ford Sedan) and they work great.

Understood that it's not a perfect comparison The X5 is about 1500lbs heavier than my old Tacoma on which I had almost 200k on the OEM rotors. And I think I maybe changed the pads once. But these kinds of cars are my frame of reference since this is my first BMW. Just trying to re-set my brake life expectations.

I would not expect 175k edogg. That is definitely not typical. Glad it works for Trader, but again, it's not a usual example. 50k is pretty typical and I change rotors + pads anytime I do a brake job.

The OE rotors might last 100k but again I prefer new pads & rotors at the same time... I do my own work though so it's easy for me to say that as well. You could probably do 2 sets of pads per 1 set of rotors and be okay.

Side note: I have been busy losing weight from 206lbs down 165lbs now :), started working out last Dec 2014 ( I know the drill picture or it did not happen!)

As for me: Perfect timing for this thread, I am due for Pads & Rotors Warning: "Check Brake Lining"

I guess I will be ordering the items below this month of Sept, roughly 584.45 USD all parts.
(I will use the e46 or e90 as my DD until I get the e53 back on the road)

Rockauto: (Since I do not see the Cryo-Treated Rotor listed specific/right fit for my 3.0)

CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy
Rear; Solid Rear Disc

CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy
Front; Solid Rear Disc

Thanks for the tip StephenVA - rockauto wins the best price!
=======================
BavAuto:

$ 239.95 CC KIT 12 Cool Carbon Sport Brake Pad Set - Front & Rear

$ 20.95 Brake Pad Wear Sensor Wire - Front - Genuine BMW Part # : 34 35 1 165 579

$ 20.95 Brake Pad Wear Sensor Wire - Rear - Genuine BMW Part # : 34 35 1 165 580

$ 9.95 x2 Brake Caliper Anti-Rattle Clip - Front Part # : 34 11 1 163 488

$ 10.95 x2 Brake Pad / Caliper Anti Rattle Clip - Rear Part # : 34 21 1 159 963

^Is there a reason you are buying new anti rattle clips? I've never replaced one if they were in the correct shape.

EDIT: And congrats on the weight loss. It's tough work for sure. I lost almost 40lbs and have kept most of it off for about 3 years now. :thumbup:

Crystalworks,

Rust and I'm replacing then every 3 brake maintenance

I'm still doing. 80% diet and 20% High intensity interval exercise
Until I hit 150-155 my active/fit weight ( I'm not tall, just 5'7.5)
I already ordered Seven road bike as my 41st gift to me :) as the saying goes life begins at 40. Congrats too to your success in getting back into shape/fit

Glad to help. When ordering use the discount code " MMAM15" in the field "Where did you hear about us?" to pick up another 5%. That coupon is good until 9/30/15 for anyone.

I would recommend replacing the Caliper rubber bushings as they are inexpensive. The aftermarket ones are not bad and will provide a long service. The OE Dealer ones are way pricey. The ATE ones can be found at a few locations at half the costs. That is the OE manufacture of the 4.8is calipers but without looking I do not know who made yours.

The image is Centrix disc brake hardware kit with bushing and the spring clip that matches the OE color. $10 for the front kit, $8 for the rear (PER AXLE)

Oh I agree with you about min thickness, even wear, etc. No need to replace them if all the above are good. I've just never seen a 175k BMW rotor that didn't have a huge lip on it, wasn't warped, or still above min spec.

ihordmclain, gotcha on the rust. Down here in TX, we very rarely see clips get rusted. Keep fighting the good fight on the exercise front. I was 245ish when I decided enough was enough and got down to 205lbs. I'm currently at 220lbs but I am 6'8" so 220 is still a fairly healthy weight. I still exercise regularly. I eat a lot of garbage food still, but I'm only 33 so I have a few more years I can get away with it I think. :D

I have the reference part numbers for my 3.0

Part Number @ Realoem
Price reference @ BavAuto - Will look for a better deal

2004 3.0.

Front
#04 REPAIR KIT GUIDE BUSH 2 34111157038 $ 12.95 (Meyle)
#05 PROTECTIVE PLUG 4 34111154979

Rear
#04 REPAIR KIT GUIDE BUSH 2 34111157038 $ 12.95 (Meyle)
#05 PROTECTIVE PLUG 4 34111154979

The discussion about the bushings reminds me... I'm considering swapping out the stock brake lines with steel braided lines for a firmer pedal feel and increased longevity. Does anyone have any thoughts about that? Worth it? Not worth it?

And, I'll add caliper bushings to the service list. Sounds like good preventative maintenance.


ETA: Congrats on the weight loss, you guys!

I was looking at zimmerman blank rotors and Wagner thermoquiets MX681 &683).

Centric high carbon alloy rotors are so expensive for me to get in Canada ($500) and Cool Carbons are over twice the price as wagner OR Centric posi-quiet pads...

I wish I could drive someones X5 with cool carbons just to see the hype for the extra cost..

I have installed them with great results on two X5 so far. As long as you are prepared to inspect them 2-3x a year to ensure all is OK. They provide the brake feel improvement as advertised.
Note: The fit at the rear will need a quick tie (zip tie) to lock down the lines as they are larger so the fit in the plastic locking tray is tight on the lower control arms.

Damn I wish you would have chimed in a couple weeks ago! The brake job is done and I did not make the change to steel brake lines. The shop recommended against doing it as it could cause shorter pad/rotor life because of the increased pressures.

Now that I've got a few hundred miles on the Akebono pads and Zimmermann rotors, I find that they work fine but the pedal definitely has a spongy feel.

Swapping them out is easy. You don't have to pull the calipers pads or rotors.
It is a quick DIY task.

Quick Tips on the bleed process
Suck out all the old brake fluid at the master Cyl - FIRST
Bleed out all the old stuff starting on the Right Rear, then the Left rear, Right Front, then left front. The right rear will take F O R E V E R to run clear as it has the longest brake line runs and everything is on the way - Master, ABS, lines, etc.

Follow up any power bleed with the old foot method as a last step as it tend to "free up" all the little bubbles attached to the calipers. I tap on the calipers with a soft nose hammer (nylon or rubber will do the trick) during the power bleed process to make sure all the junk move along with the fluid.

Yeah and I just had the brake fluid flushed and refilled too... :(

Then you are good to go.

I would however recommend taking it back to the shop that did your work and mention the soft brake feeling. It is possible that the lines and brake system was not totally flushed out and there were a few microns of air trapped in the system. It will only take them a few minutes to pedal bleed then top off the system. It will take them longer to reinstall the Cabin filter and cover then to do the job.

OE Lines are great if and only if they are not split, swelling, and not cracked.

Good luck