Should I attempt my first brake service or pay the price?
 

So my X5 needs front pads and rotors and Meneke of course wants an outrageous amount of $800 but it was throwing in brake fluid flush which I can have them do a little later on. But roughly $700 for just front? Seems crazy. Is it easy to replace front brakes on X5? Should I try it myself. Sure i could save atleast $300-400. Any advise guys? I have done some work myself like water pump thermostat and belts. So I'm not a complete noob. Please help need to do this ASAP as the brakes are grinding

Parts cost for new front rotors and pads well under $200.

Parts cost no more than a Chrysler or whatever. Nor is the maintenance.

My rotors were $37 each for Wagners. Set of pads the same. Regular serviceable brakes For the daily drive and road trip taker. If you wanna play boy-racer, YMMV, but if that was the case, you would not be asking the question. Call it $120 all in. Zero special tools involved = couple of hand tools and easy after dinner brake job.

Brake fluid change will cost you about $10 and a helper to do it old school.

There is absolutely nothing special or magical about the tasks you need to do. It is the same process on an E53 as it would be anything else.

The cost you are quoted includes substantial markup on the parts, some of the electric bill, some of their wages, and a bit of your skin for good measure. Decide what your time is worth (or available) against the cost.

If your question is: Is this as easy as any other car? YES.

Taking an x5 to Meneike is an invitation for disaster. No matter what you decide, find an experienced mechanic and not one of those chain stores.

Plenty of YouTube videos on brake work and brake fluid changes for you to watch and judge for yourself.

Certainly nothing technically complicated compared to the work you listed but in the end, you have to assess your competence and comfort.

I do my own brakes my self on the x5 and they are easier than doing drum brakes on old school vehicles back in the day.
also I know the job is done right when I do my own work.

True that! Substantial satisfaction and peace of mind being knowledgable of the attitude of the "dude doing the work!" :thumbup:

Hahahahaha. I just got a mental pic of some Meneike dude, pants all falling down, zits out all over the place, just air-hammering away on the guys wheels, "Duh, yup, they gotta be all tight by golly uh huh, yes they do......."

:thumbdown:thumbdown

Read this link, then decide.

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...e-job-diy.html

It isn't more complicated than other vehicles, but you haven't done brakes before and they are a safety system. Add in the cost of tools, jack stands, etc if you don't have them.

Thanks fir all the advise guys

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...34116794300kt1

That's what I'd go with

You know what's weird? The check brake line message never appeared. You think my sensors are still good?

if you see any pits or rust in the rotors I would replace them.

If one pad is grinding and the one with the sensor hasn't reached the sensor yet, they may not be wearing evenly. That can indicate sticking guide pins or a sticking caliper. Knowing how to identify and address these issues is the difference between doing brakes properly, and simply sliding a set of pads in.

$250 for a full set (front and rear) replacement parts.
$700 for fronts alone.
Yup, definitely worth a DIY

What crap brakes are you getting that are 250 for a full set of front and rears?

The same crap brakes that are on my pickup, or my neighbors car, or the commuter in front of me on the way to work.

Regular service replacements from Napa, CarQuest, Autozone, Rockauto, O'Reilly's, whatever.

Do the brakes yourself. One of the easiest DIY's for this vehicle. Go to Rockauto.com and get excited about the pads and rotors you can buy. Akebono, Bosch, Honeywell, Brembo.
The result can be a better quality brake job for less money. Meineke will put in crappy brakes while charging you an arm-and-a-leg. Their warranty may only covers parts so if you do need to use it then expect to pay another arm+leg in labor.

Yeah I won't put DuraDonts on my cars

JCL says it right, look at the tutorial, its quite good, then decide if you can tackle that sort of thing! there is a big difference between a "pad slam" and a proper brake servicing. the calipers should wear the pads evenly, if they wear differently something is not right with the caliper. check the slides and see. the difference between a DIY job and a pro job is the knowledge of the system. a typical diy'er might miss something like a sticking caliper pin, the job still gets done, but maybe a root cause of worn pad(s) is missed. If you're confident with your DIY skills go for it!
keep in mind that the brakes are the #1 safety feature that keeps you safe and not piling into the guy in front of you! I would NEVER cheap out on Brakes or Tires. (not saying i dont look for deals on high quality parts or tires!) Rock auto and FCPEuro, great sources for parts.
Enjoy

So what are some good brands that are cheaper but still decent quality?

:popcorn:

Pagid, Akebono, EBC, Raybestos EHT, Wagner for pads, Zimmerman, Brembo for rotors? Personally I have Akebono on mine, they havent given me any issues, and i would use them again. bought them off Craigslist from a guy who sold his X5, they were priced right. In the future, i might search the forum here and see whats new and better (or not!) My rotors are still the stockers, (maybe not original but still oem)
basically ive found you get what you pay for! Dont forget to get the sensor wire! (good practice to change it!) some good quality Caliper/brake lube doesnt hurt either! Ask at your local parts store, what they have to offer?
my local guys have no problems recommending low, mid and performance grade stuff
good luck! Oh, and make sure your jack is up to snuff, these things are HEAVY!! I use a hockey puck (because I'm Canadian!) to act as a jack pad!

Plenty of how to do brakes on a BMW on Youtube. Get either the special tool for pushing back the piston into the caliper, or a big C-clamp.

Get a decent set of jack stands and a good hydraulic jack. Don't use the jack that came with the car. Most auto parts store like Advanc e auto, o'reilley, pep boy will loan you the special tool for free. You just need to leave a deposit with them.

Zimmerman and Bosch are solid choices for rotors. Brembo and Stoptech are usually more expensive I believe.

Akebono and Bosch pads are great and not very expensive.

Here you go all the work done for you
 

Where to order: RockAuto Parts Catalog

What to order:
Pads
Rear: POWER STOP 17683 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $23.79
FRONT: POWER STOP 17681 Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits $28.79

Rotors
Front: CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy $63.89
Rear: CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy $47.79

Pad Info:
Z17 Evolution Plus; Ceramic; w/Hardware Kits
The Z17 Evolution Plus product line combines our performance proven Z16 Evolution Ceramic pads with application specific brake hardware kits. Each hardware kit will include stainless steel abutment clips (where applicable), anti-rattle hardware clips, piston clips or bushings and sleeves as required for installation. OEM Positive Mold Technology for consistent fade free performance
Dual active rubber shims provide 6 times more noise reduction
Chamfered and slotted like the OE pad
Most applications include Premium Stainless Steel Hardware Kit
Thermal Scorched for fast break-in
Rotor Info
High Carbon Alloy
Centric 125 Series High Carbon Brake Rotors contain an advanced metallurgy that greatly reduces the possibility of pad squeal especially with higher friction, European style brake pad compounds. Proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys resist rotor cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. This alloy also increases the friction couple improving brake performance and stopping power. Increased Chromium and Carbon content is also more resistant to oxidation.
Power Alloy
-Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress
-Increased molybdenum content that extends reliability, service life and helps reduce NVH “noise” issues
Double disc ground
Mill balanced
Black E-Coating on non-friction surfaces enhances open wheel appearance
Symmetric split core castings for Increased strength and stability

These will provide great stopping power, no noise, easy DIY install, coated center hubs so the rust look will not visit you shortly. If the brake light is on add in the brake sensors. Bleed the brakes as this is one area that most owners skimp on maintenance. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and turns brown with age. The water will eat away and boil away when the brakes are applied, until system failure. Recommended by 90% of the board forum. The 10%: Some live in the desert where humidity is 2%. The other 9% live with their heads in the sand and don't care as the vehicles are at the end of their life cycles. Often called "last owner". :rofl:

I personally replace the rubber boots and pins but those are options on what is considered a "Brake Job". On a DIY I replace everything or rebuild it (caliper pistons and seals). Questions: Uneven pad wear left to right side?Brake fluid looks like used motor oil? Rotors have hot spots? Find metal fragments inside the front wheels from metal to metal touch on used up pads? Rubber brake lines from the frame to calipers have cracks? Did the hood look like you were opening a coffin when you purchased the car?
When in doubt just replace it. How often do you go through brakes? Once every 3 -5 years? Cheap insurance.

Fixing any car to proper function and normal performance level, is really all about base-lining components to a known good standard. Test everything, check everything, replace what does not measure up, and now you have a vehicle that starts in the morning, and will provide happy motoring. What more can you ask of a 10 year old vehicle? Your "investment return" is the smile on your face when driving. :thumbup:

Like everyone has posted, DIY is only simple hand tools, a shop jack and a few jack stands, a tray (cardboard) to catch the dirt, and extra foot to bleed the brakes if you don't have a power bleeder, and a short hose and a jar to catch the brake fluid. All of these items will pay themselves back on one brake job.

You want Cheap? :rolleyes:
Pad $7
Rotors $25 Front, $18 Rear

What are they? From China, Cheap and will fit. Life? Should be short for driver and parts!

From what most mechanics tools me you dont need to bleed the brakes unless you remove the brake lines from the caliper. Simple vent the system by loosening the master cylinder should be fine. Hmmm.

Well I finished the job. It took longer than it should have mainly because I had the rotor seized on the hub and did not have a rubber mallet or sledge. Once I got one I put a couple lug nuts on and gave it a couple good wacks near the center around the hub and it released.

I ended up just buying some Duralast Rotors from Auto Zone. They should be fine. In parts I spent roughly $250 which was much better than $800 the shop wanted.

My old pads had literally no pad left it was metal on metal. How it get that way? The damn sensor was not even connected and I wasn't pay attention visually like I should have.

So far so couple commutes and every feels and sounds fine. Ill let you know if I die in following weeks via poltergeist.

Brake bleeding is the removal all fluid, dirt, contaminates from the brake lines. It also takes out any air trapped in the lines. If the lines are opened, then bleeding is a must. If not see below....

The people you are listening to are correct, you do not "have" to do it. The procedure is called proper maintenance for long life and function. Want a firm and consistent brake pedal feel? Flush the brakes lines and calipers. The procedure is simple and heads off additional issues and problems down the road. Brake fluid is CHEAP! Your brake system is not.

Congrats on a successful DIY project. What is next on the list?

Next is rear suspension refresh. I have an annoying squeak in the rear. Im pretty sure its the rear upper control arm bushing. Which im guess is sealed and cant not be lubed or anything. So I will do Upper and possible lower arm and most likely shocks in rear. Up front is pretty fresh had complete over haul about 70k ago while it was under an extended warranty.

Congrats. Brakes on BMW's are very easy and saves a ton of money.

I usually get the kit from brakeoverstock.com for ~$320 that includes front + rear rotors, pads, and sensors. They are a super cheap rotor but I've used them on 10+ vehicles and while not as good as Zimmerman, Brembo, etc... I've also never had an issue with safety, noise, short life, etc in daily driving situations.

Brakeoverstock - Products - 2006 BMW X5 4.8iS

I'm sure some here would advise against this "brand" (Callahan) as they are really inexpensive... but as I said... I've never had an issue. :)

Images and part numbers for your efforts and to ID the parts you need:
Image Part Number **Description Qty Each
1 *33321095239 *WHEEL CARRIER, REAR LEFT 1 * $689.57
1 *33321095240 *WHEEL CARRIER, REAR RIGHT 1 * $689.57
2 *33326767748 *BALL JOINT 2 * $71.54
-- *33321091687 *SNAP RING 2 * $3.20
3 *33321091687 *SNAP RING 2 * $3.20
4 *33326770749 *INTEGRAL LINK 2 * $82.42
5 *33326763463 *HEX BOLT WITH WASHER - M12X1,5X67 ZNS3 2 * $6.08
6 *33326774796 *GUIDING SUSPENSION LINK 2 * $310.00
7 *33321095590 *ECCENTRIC BOLT - M12X1,5X66 2 * $9.97
8 *33306786186 *ECCENTRIC FLAT WASHER 2 * $3.12
9 *33326760668 *SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT - M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 2 * $1.51
10 *33326760376 *SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT - M10-10 ZNS3 2 * $2.31
11 *33326770859 *WISHBONE, LEFT 1 * $344.42
11 *33326770860 *WISHBONE, RIGHT 1 * $344.42
12 *33321091058 *COLLAR SCREW - M12X1,5X90 2 * $8.36
13 *33326760374 *SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT - M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 2 * $4.27
14 *33326760380 *COMBINATION NUT - M14X1,5-10ZNS3 2 * $5.37
15 *33326770743 *LEFT SWING PART 1 * $510.78
15 *33326770744 *RIGHT SWING PART 1 * $510.78
16 *33326760392 *HEX SCREW WITH COLLAR - M12X1,5X92-10.9 2 * $7.27
17 *33321095592 *LOCKING NUT - M12X1,5 2 * NA
33321095592 was superseded by 33326767546.
18 *33321097213 *ECCENTRIC BOLT - M14X1,5X95 2 * NA
33321097213 was superseded by 33326760602.
18 *33326760602 *ECCENTRIC BOLT - M14X1,5X95-10.9 2 * NA
33326760602 was superseded by 33326784983.
18 *33306784983 *ECCENTRIC BOLT - M14X1,5X95-10.9 2 * $10.05
19 *33306786187 *ECCENTRIC FLAT WASHER 2 * $3.08
20 *33306760349 *SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT - M14X1,5-10 ZNS3 2 * $2.86
21 *33321092870 *HEX BOLT - M16X1,5X263 2 * $10.51
22 *33326760383 *SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT - M16X1,5-10 ZNS3 2 * $7.19
23 *34526756380 *PULSE GENERATOR, ABS*(to 10/03) 2 * $140.32
23 *34526771705 *PULSE GENERATOR, DSC REAR*(from 10/03) 2 * $112.26
24 *61131392246 *UNIVERSAL SOCKET HOUSING UNCODED - 2 POL. 2 * $6.02
-- *61130005199 *BUSHING CONTACT - 0,2- 0,5MM² 2 * $2.77
-- *61130006665 *BUSHING CONTACT - 0,75MM² 2 * $2.83
24 *61131392248 *PLUG HOUSING - 3 POL. 2 * $7.45
-- *61130005199 *BUSHING CONTACT - 0,2- 0,5MM² 3 * $2.77
-- *61130006665 *BUSHING CONTACT - 0,75MM² 3 * $2.83
25 *07119901438 *FILLISTER-HEAD SCREW - M6X16-ZNS 2 * $0.60
07119901438 was superseded by 07119905536.
26 *34301166229 *HOLDER, BRAKE HOSE, LEFT 1 * $25.56
26 *34301166230 *HOLDER, BRAKE HOSE, RIGHT 1 * $25.56
27 *34301165921 *FIXING DEVICE 1 * $7.37
28 *07119915707 *HEX NUT 1 * $0.92

One thing I regret not researching. The Caliper Guide pins according to BMW they dont need to be lubed or greased at all. I did apply a slight amount. Should I go back in a clean them off? Some say they do some they dont.

Depends....
Most techs follow BMW's line of Dry no lube.

Do you think I will be ok with a small amount which I applied? I do I need to go back in there?

Depends....
The lube used could eat away the rubber parts, Check the label. The rubber parts are CHEAP and just pull out and push into the calipers with a little Armor All coating. provide UV protection (until it rains)

90% of the time your fine.

BMW does not say you don't need to lube them. They say don't lube them. There is a difference.

Depending on the lube, the bushings can swell. That causes sticking.

If some say they do and some say they don't then some are doing the job correctly and some aren't.

FWIW... I've never lubed the pins on a BMW brake job and never had an issue. YMMV

:iagree: +1

But you shouldn't expect an issue, that is the correct method.

The issue is (sometimes) from lubing them, when the lube reacts with the guides or rubber covers.