2002 E53 X5 ISSUE: Central Locking, Wipers, Hatch Release not Working?
 

Looking for some advice from the board! I'm really well versed in E36-era BMWs but am new to the E53 platform. I have an Oxford over Black X5/5MT that I'd really like to keep through the winter, but have been running into some gremlins.

What happened:

• Left an interior light on for a few hours in the parking lot while I was at work. Key would not unlock doors, assumed battery was low. Car did start and didn't require a jump, but lost most broken functions below. This was maybe 2 or 3 months ago.
• Key was able to remotely open the hatch for a few days, then that stopped working as well.

What's broken:

• Wireless key functions (lock/unlock/hatch release)
• Central locking button does not work
• Hazard switch does not work
• Front windshield wipers do not work (rear wiper does work though)
• Automatic interior lights do not come on when doors are opened
• Hatch release switch does not work

The wipers and not being able to get in the trunk are the biggest pains in the ass right now.

Some theories I have:

• GM3 issue. Although I'm not sure if it would cause all the issues above.
• Dead key issue. Not sure what that actually would do to prevent the interior buttons from working.
• Transport mode. I've tried to code it out a few times with a friend's tablet scan tool, but it didn't seem to do anything.
• Fuses/grounds? I checked both fuse decks in the glovebox and in the trunk and didn't notice a difference.

I'm hoping you guys can help me to dial this in and figure out what the issue is! I may just take my spare key apart and solder in a new battery, but want to see what the board has to say. I appreciate the help and will make a diagnostics thread for the community to help future owners. This seems to be a common set of overlapping issues.

Please don't take your key apart and solder a new battery, sounds like your GM3 module may need rebuilding. If your battery and alternator are confirmed good, I'd look into the module.

this is the guy that repairs the GM3, Id email him:
https://www.bmwgm5.com/

If your key is truly dead (doesn't recharge when driving), get a new master key from the dealer

Are there issues from soldering in a new battery? I've seen a lot of DIYs online and really don't want to drop $200 at the dealer on a new key if I don't have to.

Sounds more like a wiring issue since other electrical components are also affected. I would get a wiring diagram and see if there's a common circuit between everything that doesn't work.

I am experiencing a similar issue. Mine started with locking my car using the remote, and noticing that the locks didn't actuate. I used the key to lock the car, and noticed a lot of resistance turning the key to the locked position. Later, as I was heading home, I tried to unlock the car with the remote, and nothing happened, so I used the key to unlock the door, and noticed that their was no mechanical resistance to return the key to center (only spring pressure).

After removing the key lock, I was able to verify that I could use a blade of a screwdriver to lock and unlock the door. I also was able to determine that the button in the center console for Central Locking is not working.

SO...I have confirmed the following:
· Locks work with the door key (once the lock is repaired)
· I can open the rear hatch with the key
· Doors will neither lock or unlock with the remote
· Doors will neither lock or unlock with the center console button

I have ordered the lock repair set and am hoping to have it by Tuesday. Is there a way to determine if my e53 may have been put into Transport Mode, or do you have to take it to someone with a DIS (I don't have one currently). My car does not have air suspension, so not sure why it would even have Transport Mode...or what else Transport Mode would do other than raise the vehicle. I'm leaning toward a GM3 issue as-well, but not 100%.

The battery is showing a little low on resting voltage, in the Control Test-09. Resting voltage was showing 11.9V to 12.0V on a 75º day. Have not tested with a voltage meter yet, but last time I checked with a multimeter, I was seeing consistently .5V higher than shown on the Control interface. I will test the battery tomorrow.

I disconnected the battery and connected the cables together in an attempt to discharge any residual power and "reset" the modules to default settings. Interestingly enough, my key still opens the rear hatch without resyncing it...and when I attempt to resync the key, nothing happens (no lock/unlock).