Weird Battery Drain - All fuses out
 

Hi all,
so I have a 3.78amp battery drain with which the car does still go to sleep.
I have pulled all the fuses in the glove box and the trunk as well as the 4 relays.
I disconnected the fuses under the trunk by the spare tire and the power feed under the hood (where you would normally jumpstart the car). AND I STILL HAVE THE 3.78 DRAIN!

The drain finally drops to .5 when I disconnect the main cable going from the fuse block located by the spare tire.
Its a 02 3.0 auto, 100k, stock.

any help would be greatly appreciated as its currently taken apart in my driveway.


thank you

What else is connected to the cable, it disappears under the right side rear seat, I assume from there it travels up to behind the dash

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Any aftermarket electronic like stereo, alarm, GPS tracking system connected to the car?

I have a Avin head unit but its disconnected at the moment

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Are you the original owner or were there previous owners?

I've had it for 3 years, 2nd owner.

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The High Amperage fuse panel in the rear trunk of the car power the fuse box inside the glove box and another high amperage fuse box on top of the fuse box in the glove box as well as the e-box in the engine compartment. You could have a stuck relay or you could have a failing FSR (Final Stage Resistor for the fan). Check the blower motor fan. Are you able to adjust all the speed or does it only work on one speed.

When did this happen? What did you do before this happened?


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its not the FSR, I havent had any issue with the fan running while the car was off or adjusting the fan speed. To be safe, I also replaced it with a new OEM unit last week. Problem continued.
I have had this problem for a year now, I replaced the alternator (new, not rebuilt, Bosch), after the battery kept dying but the car was going to sleep. The alternator started putting out low voltage under load, but in hindsight it was probably from all the extra load of charging the battery from its weak state that put strain on it.
Where is the e-box in the engine compartment? I took out all the large fuses in glove box, are there any other high amp? what other relays are there?

thanks

Went through similar problem with my dad's car recently. I pulled apart the fuse block and internally it had 4 canon plugs. Pulling one group at a time eliminated 10-12 fuses at a time and tracked down the drain quickly. In his case was "operator error" he left his mirror mounted map lights on for 2.5a drain and his car doesn't time out.

42w drain is enough to make whatever part of the car physically warmer than a the rest. Put a charger on to keep the bat from draining and scan the car after sitting overnight and scan the car with an IR thermometer. Something should be 5-10°F over ambient. You have to catch before the sun hits the car (in a garage best: Wind will also foil the experiment).

The other test method is to run through ammeter and turn every device on/off and when you engage something and don't get an appropriate change in current that's the culprit. Example. Each window draws 1.5A except one that draws 0.5a. Means the window has a short pulling 1A idle.

Did you have any coding done? A bug in coding could leave some accessory always on. Have a 3rd party power sub or amp? Broken relay could easily be the culprit they usually are hard wired to the battery with their own fuse.


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