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-   -   Multiple misfires after plug change! (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/102246-multiple-misfires-after-plug-change.html)

mig25 11-12-2015 10:23 AM

It only runs funny at idle.
I am going to ditch these Bosch +4 . I will also check the boots.

Ricky Bobby 11-12-2015 10:33 AM

Ditch the Bosch +4 Autozone specials

You should be running NGK Iridiums or NGK Laser Platinums - BKR6QUEP or IX I forget the part numbers

StephenVA 11-12-2015 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby (Post 1058037)
Ditch the Bosch +4 Autozone specials

You should be running NGK Iridiums or NGK Laser Platinums - BKR6QUEP or IX I forget the part numbers

We already posted this info but here we are a few days later........

Whoops, my bad
, it was not this poster. Someone else with the normal 1st time plug change questions.

Ricky Bobby 11-12-2015 10:41 AM

Ah I saw your posts on the last page, thank you for reminding me about the EGR vaccuum lines I need to check out in my spare time - Good call on the coils, he has a 2002 so I think he has the old style with the separate boots - My 2003 has the newer style on the right in the pic you posted on the prior page

StephenVA 11-12-2015 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mig25 (Post 1058030)
It only runs funny at idle.
I am going to ditch these Bosch +4 . I will also check the boots.

Plug wire (carbon fiber) should have the 10,000 ohm resistance per foot standard. (Mag wire is a whole lot less). As these are 6 inches, so 5K max is the fail point. Personally I would just replace them as they are cheap. Add a dab of Die Electric gel.

Info source:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease
Dielectric grease
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.

Yes. I know this is not a College like MIT test posting, but it is good enough for a DIY site. This is to save myself from a response...:stickpoke

Ricky Bobby 11-12-2015 10:44 AM

^^Dielectric (silicone) grease

StephenVA 11-12-2015 10:54 AM

I was having a brain freeze and winter coming on and all that.

StephenVA 11-12-2015 10:56 AM

Those boots are interesting little buggers. Most DIY do not even notice them until failure. They jump to coils right away on misfires.

StephenVA 11-12-2015 11:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Moving to the fine wire plugs will improve idle quality, replacing the boots will make it more so.

Check ground straps
Check EGR Vac line
Replace plugs with this

mig25 11-12-2015 11:57 AM

Excellent advise. Thank you. I just ordered a set of boots. I am picking up a set of NGK Iridiums today.
I will post the results here as soon as I get the parts. I will not get my boots until next week though arghhhhhh!


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