Thanks for all the replies! I think that it is most likely the transfer case chain. I will drain the fluid and inspect next weekend. When I am driving and I let off the gas for a second or two and then step back on the gas there is a sort of clunk, like slack somewhere in the driveline. This is what leads me to believe that the culprit of the clicking noise is the transfer case chain. I will most likely be doing the work myself, as I don't trust any mechanics but one.. and they are only slightly cheaper than the stealership. I am pretty mechanically inclined and have the tools necessary, although I don't have a ton of experience with cars. But hey, there's always something new to learn!

Depends on what length you get. I have read that you need to unbolt the tcase for the OE length +1 inch.

I had bought one that was OE+half an inch that, supposedly, you can install without unbolting the tcase, but stupid me ordered a facelift one which is too short for a pre facelift, I guess. I have a +1 inch on the way.


Here is my stretched out chain. It's hard to show in photos, but you can kind of tell how much slack there was.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psy4ocyjpm.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psptio77ox.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psd5vrelz5.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psnawvidqz.jpg

And the difference between pre facelift and post facelift.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psaxjjnf8c.jpg

Josh thanks for your updates, I assume you are doing DIY - nice work - I actually have an inkling my chain may have some stretch on it as well - if I let off the gas on the highway and then go to step on it so to speak, there is a half hesitation and the slightest bang, as if the chain is loose and slipping a bit - no clutch slip, and its not coming from the motor - Would be nice to fit a new chain and a new shaft and not have to repair any other items (i.e. letting the Tcase/driveshaft go until failure)

I thought about getting all new seals, but at $50 a seal I figured I'd wait and see what ends up leaking. It's not that difficult to remove the tcase with the right tools. I got that top driver side bolt with a swivel and a couple extension. I got the other ones that had minimal space with a external torx wrench.

I'm also trying to replace the shift rod selector shaft seal which is usually a bitch, but even more so with the x5s extended tail housing.

That might be it RB. Mine would only do it if I really gunned it in first and not in any other situation. I'm glad I got a new shaft just in case (well now I need to wait for the correct one). I'm not confident in the old one.

I also replaced the tcase mount and filled the voids with polyurethane. I'm hoping it helps shifter feel. The stock one was old and a little saturated from the leaking seal.

I've had the standing start ratchet noise for a few months now. Need to get a new chain and tear into it. DS outer CV boot torn too.

Get on it. I have a feeling that it aids in striping the driveshaft.

Great to know Josh - Btw I've read that there are actually 2 different (similar) Tcases for the pre-facelifts, the NV125 and the LWX500 - does it say on the outside of the case which one you have? Would be helpful when I tackle this to be sure I'm getting the right parts - the driveshafts are all the same but I'm sure the internals of the case might be slightly different.

I feel the same way. Been driving it easy.

The TC case has a model tag RB. readily visible from below.