Took off water pump...what else to replace since im in there?
 

The water pump on my 2002 X5 4.4 started to fail, so I took it off today. I noticed old oil buildup all over the front engine (probably from the valve cover gaskets). Since I already have a lot of the cooling system off, what else can be replaced (maintenance)?

I will be re-using the thermostat and radiator hoses.

I was thinking about:
-water pump and gaskets
-fan clutch
-valve cover gaskets
-valley pan (maybe)?

Any other suggestions? Thanks

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check your thermostat.

and be careful of the large adn small metal coolant lines that run to back of engine. Do not dislodge them. use plenty of lube on the o-rings of the new coolant pump.

maybe throw a can of engine degreaser in there, so you can clean up the area dn then know what you're working with for leaks in the future...

I would have replaced the hoses you had to remove to replace the pump.

Yeah, fan clutch too. Not sure if the water pump pulley is separate and made of plastic like on the M54, I'd look at that carefully for cracks.

I'd do the valve cover gaskets as well while in there.

Check the expansion tank for signs of leakage or brittle plastic.

On a thirteen year old vehicle, I'd be replacing every plastic and rubber component of the cooling system if they hadn't been done before. Go ahead and do the thermostat too - it's cheap insurance. Examine all your vacuum lines and fittings as well.

2002 X5 3.0 291,600 miles
2014 428i 13,000 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 525i sold at 66,000 miles

I re-used those two metal coolant pipes and had leaks a short while later when I did mine. You probably have to remove the intake to get access to the whole pipe, but I would suggest replacing those now. Replacing them on an M62 is not nearly as bad a job as the N62. Otherwise, you will have to remove your new water pump if/when they leak (as i did...). My pipes looked better than yours, but the metal was etched where the o-rings seal.

Definitely replace all the hoses you removed, plastic expansion tank, etc.

P.S. I wouldn't spray degreaser now - the runoff will get into the cooling jacket where the water pump is open and contaminate your coolant. If you do want to degrease, bolt the old pump back on first.

Check the belts and belt tensioners and radiator. If original might want to replace them.

^yes, this too. These engines run hot and the pulley bearings lead a rough life.

I would bolt the pump back before.

But when people degrease their engines and hose them off, do they not risk getting sensors wet? What about water hitting the alternator and components. Never had the guts to "hose off" my engine when its covered in oil/dirt/grime.

Hi there,

Just my thoughts about it.

How were the O-Rings inside the water pump,the ones that go on the pipes?
If they were ok,then just replace those and put in ll together.But if there were some signs of O-rings starting to lose layers of rubber,let's say like a burr(althoug I don't know if this term can be used),then the ones in the rear collector manifold look the same.That is the sign to dig deeper and remove intake manifold and do the Valley Pan,rear collector gaskets etc.
Otherwise you are gonna find yourself chasing future leaks pretty soon.
I had replaced the VP,those pipes and O-Rings(4 in total,one on each end),assemble everything back and find out that Water Pump gasket started leaking,then I replaced that,then a tiny hose from under the WP to alternator started dripping,had to replace that...
How I see it in your situation.I would replace maximum things that bolt to the engine and assemble the rest back,while checking the rear hoses for signs of bubbling at the connections(it's not an issue here in Canada,because it's always cool,so rubber lasts a bit longer than in some States) and then if you have some leak from some connector of some hose,just replace that hose,it all will be in a front part of the engine.I had a lot of original hoses that didn't leak and aren't leaking now 3 years later.
If you take an approach to fix unbroken stuff,your X is gonna be even deeper money pit.

P.s.

While you are there,replace the VANOS actuators gaskets(or reuse the old ones with a good gasket maker),those are
responsible for the oily mess on the Timing Cover down.

I do it all the time. I first hit it really good on a hot engine with Black Magic Engine Degreaser... then let it sit for 10 minutes. Then come back with hose (no sprayer on hose) and gently rinse the engine off. Immediately start the engine and run it (driving for 15+ minutes is best) to help quickly dry off most of the water.

Just be sensible and don't soak electrical components like the alternator and bosch connectors that BMW uses. Getting them wet is okay and is nothing to worry about... even soaking them is most likely not going to hurt but it's a precautionary thing.

It will be the best/easiest engine degreasing you've done I'm sure. After finding the Black Magic stuff I'll never use another degreaser for cleaning an engine.