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New rotors - ECS or Centric?
Mine rotors are running low on meat. Not sure why the warning light has not come on yet since minimum is 28.4mm and i'm at about 30mm.
https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...57&oe=57629081 Debating on the ECS Tuning or Centric rotors. Front Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors - Pair Rear Cross Drilled And Slotted Brake Rotors - Pair (324x12) Centric looks like it costs a little more. I have them on my Z and haven't been that satisfied with them (slotted aerorotor BBK front / standard slotted rear) lots of issues with vibration, etc... due to uneven pad deposits however to be fair I did discover finally this was due to having too aggressive of a pad. Front Rear |
I thought that brake warning light was to indicate when the pads are worn as opposed to worn rotors?. I couldn't tell you if the ECS is better than the Centric or vis versa since I have never experienced either.
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Light would come on for pads that are worn so low the sensor gets worn off. Then you replace pads and sensor. As for rotor thickness, I'd let them get right to the minimum if they aren't warped.
I have the cross drilled, slotted ECS rotors. They look great and have a great coating (why I bought them) and the price point is good. But mine developed a nice warp/vibration about 5,000km in. I'm just running them out and will likely source a Zimmerman or original BMW coated rotor for the next set. The coating is important and I've had good luck with Zimmerman on all my cars (street and track). |
+2 for the zimmerman rotors. Have them on my x and I abuse the hell out of them and have had no issues.
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Jay, you are correct, the brake PAD indicator is only to measure /indicate when the inboard brake pad has worn down to the sensor, causing it to send a message to the light to come on! :)
I like the Zimmerman rotors, they are pretty well built, and made with good quality steel. Ive used really cheap brands before, but have invariably been disappointed. Rotor thickness is dependant on pad aggressiveness, a long wearing pad will wear a rotor faster than a softer one. ( which is cheaper to replace, a rotor or a set of pads!?) Ive developed warped rotors after a nice mountain decent, (nice and hot!) and drove through about 2 inches of standing water (nice and cold!) the result was almost an instantaneous rotor warp! (a cheaper no name brand) ive learned it makes no sense to skimp on cheap brakes! |
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I rolled the dice around 2.5 yrs ago, went with BrakeLabs rotors (USA made, 300 series iron, zinc plated).
Installed Cool Carbon pads. The set-up was around $400. In over 45k miles I am very impressed. Even with a track day at Sebring (5 on board for some lapping) and lots of towing (in TX/FL heat), the wear is nominal. |
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So consensus is Zimmerman? Where to buy them? I don't want to mess around with warping.
Can I reuse the sensors if they have not gone off? I guess my pads outlasted my rotors. They were replaced at the same time (by me 8 years ago). What fluid you guys running. Motul? What bedding process do you use? --Thanks! |
Yes you can re-use your brake wear sensors, assuming you can get them out of the existing pads without breaking the brittle plastic.
do not re-use your existing pads on new rotors. I just went with a Centric blanks and Cool Carbon brake pad set-up and HATE it. Maybe its due to my colder climate but the brakes squeal about 50 kms after wheels are washed (I assume brake dust causes this) and the brake dust is STILL 100% there (MAYBE MAYBE slightly less than factory pads) but worst part is the stopping power is NOT there compared to factory pads and factory rotors (I have never tracked my X5 and never plan to as its a daily driver in stop-&-go traffic). If i wouldn't loose so much in throwing these new pads/rotors away for new factory equipment I'd have done so already. |
Yeah, the Cool Carbon pads are more suited to hot climates.
They need REALLY aggressive bedding (in the link below). Also aggressive heat cycling every few thousand miles to re-establish rotor "transfer layer" of pad material (when not used hard for long periods). http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...rake-pads.html |
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Another great brake pads are the Carbotech 1521. excellent low dust but great bite after seated properly and no noise after bedding. |
Hmm. Was reading rave reviews on cool carbon pads I'm in Bay Area not exactly a hot climate. Great bite and low dust sound like a win win to me... But I have learned my lesson on aggressive pads and excessive pad deposit causing wheel vibrations.
I'll get some new sensors but wondering what is the point seems like pads always outlive the rotors... |
Just to chime in on some options. I went with Brembo rotors
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-34116756847-1 And BMW pads https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-34116761282 Did this on fronts and back. Gotta say I'm very happy with the result. I drive pretty aggressive, have lots of hills where I live. Super smooth breaking, very quick to grab when I stomp on em. Sure break dust is an issue but I apply wax to the rims so it washes away easy enough. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk |
BMW rotor, and red stuff rear pads. BMW rotors and PBR Deluxe for the front. The Deluxe have 95% less dust. Compared to the factory rears, looked like my wheels were powder coated gunmetal compared to the silver fronts. Very nice in cold and hot. Bed in well. Red stuff is also nice, I didn't go with the race version. Brakes feel good and stop great. I'm one of those first off the light type of people.
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There are others that are forum posters that have the Carbotech pads on their Xs and have good things to say about them. Its great when we have those of us that have experienced a product first hand and can give the feedback as opposed to try and see. |
Pads and Rotor recommendations
Recommendations for 2000 X5 4.4
Rotors Part Description/Flavor Position Part No. Per Car Qty 2 Brake Discs Premium High Carbon Rotor Front 125.34050 Brake Discs Premium High Carbon Rotor Rear 125.34051 CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy $58.99 CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy $43.79 Manufacturer's Info: Centric Premium black rotors feature Original Equipment specifications and production processes. These Centric rotors are manufactured to meet QS and ISO Quality System Standards. Centric premium rotors utilize an Electrocoating finish that provides long lasting corrosion protection. E-coating is a superior electro-statically applied finish designed to withstand 400 hours of salt water exposure without rusting Pads POWER STOP 17681 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits (Front) $27.89 POWER STOP 17683 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits (Rear) $21.99 RockAuto IMHO, solid rotors are the way to go for street/daily driver applications, which based on your posting is your driving style. Pads that will bite stone cold and provide low dust, good pedal modulation, and OE or better braking power is a premium concern. I would not go with slotted unless the decision is based on looks and HI temp driving like tracking/towing the vehicle. Eye candy or actual usage? Many have experienced these parts and are happy. You vehicle, your stlye of driving, so it your choice. Add on Note: Replace the two brake wear sensors as you will find them to be hard and brittle on removal. Cheap part. Also replace the rubber bushings and pins as they are also 16 years old. Cheap aftermarket. I believe your calipers are ATE so find those parts. |
ATE parts can be found here
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/X5...8&m=227&page=1 |
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Rotors should last 2 sets of pads. I think you are choosing a pad way too aggressive for your driving style so the rotor is taking the hit. Think "How do I drive 90% of the time?" that should be your deciding factor. |
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Rear POWER STOP 17683 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits Front POWER STOP 17681 Z17 EVOLUTION PLUS w/Hardware Kits see www.rockauto.com for pricing and confirm application on the manufacturer's website. |
This is the exact problem I had with the StopTech street performance pads on my Z. If you are not a madman on the pedal all the time than you never get the pads hot enough to reach operating temp and this causes uneven pad deposit to develop. Once it builds up to a certain level you start noticing wheel wobble and vibration when breaking.
Another contributing factor to this is standing on hot brakes after exiting a highway off ramp or something. This is especially easily to do in a AT car. You need to get into the habit of using the ebrake to avoid this. I am a light braker I make use of engine braking and am used driving MT primarily. At the end of the day its not a race car, I'm not taking it to the track and I don't need extreme braking. I want dependable braking, better bite, lower dust and better durability (greater than 35Kmi would be nice) than OEM would all be bonus because OEM was definitely above satisfactory. I don't ever want to have to deal with uneven pad deposit again it is a nightmare you either have to cut the rotors or run race pads around the block a couple times to clean them up so the surface is nice and flat again. Quote:
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Powerstop you say? I'll have to look into them more. seem to be fan favorites with domestic vehicles...
I honestly even thought about just going back to factory pads to sue with my centric blanks |
Is the Z17 Power Stop the "Pro Street Pad"? If so it is still a very hard and aggressive pad that is for aggressive braking like at the track. You have to get them up to temp to limit excessive pad deposit and stay off of them when coming to a stop with hot rotors (i.e. coming off the freeway off-ramp). This is exactly what caused uneven pad deposits on my 300ZX StopTech AeroRotor BBK kit to develop not even 1000 miles after. Even after re-bedding the problem won't go away. STAY AWAY if you are a light braker / live in cold climates or if you are not at least hitting some light track days.
Brake Pads Think I will just go with the Posi-Quiet. I just bought a pair of them for my Z after I clean the rotors up with my hawk blue race pads will mount them and be done with it. They are supposed to have improved bite and lower dust than OEM. I cut my AeroRotors two times the problem kept recurring that is expensive on a 2 piece rotor you need a special jig. My steering wheel would shake like a mother. Thought it was suspension related replaced nearly everything. I spoke with StopTech twice before figuring this out my mechanic was clueless cost me a lot of $. Just saying. You've all been warned. I see a lot of people here having this same exact problem... Quote:
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I've used powerstops and zimmerman's before. Liked both of them. Also used brakeoverstock.com in the past and was happy with those on my e30's.
This time I went with BrakeMotive (USA company) after reading rave reviews from the vette guys. At the price I paid... it's worth a shot ($230 ceramic pads, rotors, F&R). Will report back after installing them in my maintenance thread. |
I have ecs geomet crossdrill/slotted in the rear and nothing but good things to say about them. The geomet coating works as advertised they have zero rust on them after 2 northeast winters here, where as others the paint or coating will flake off around the hat and edges.
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I've been running Akebono ceramic pads on Zimmermann rotors for the last 6 months or so. After getting used to a more linear feel without the grab of OEM, I've come to like them. They've stopped me well in a couple of recent panic stops (well enough for ABS to kick in). And they'll last a really long time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I'm looking on the Zimmerman site and I see three different versions of the cross-drilled front rotors. What is the difference? Which one is best and where can I buy them?
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Interesting thread on this subject on one of those other BMW forums from 6 years ago...
Man that price sure is alluring but I'm worried about how long they will last. Clanking sounds in the cold doesn't sound good at all. |
I'm leaning towards Zimmeman Drilled Rotors (confused about different coatings) and Akebono pads.
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Correct application for you
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Good choice for daily driver who does not think they are on a race track. |
OK then I think these are for me! I mainly engine brake / down shift - maybe I have been conditioned due to learning on MT and seemingly constant suspension / brake / tire / rim issues causing steering wheel vibrations. For me brakes are for emergencies and stopping at red lights / stop signs around town :)
Some people are brake happy. They shall remain nameless but you know who they are. Is the StopTech Z17 similar to the Akebono Ceramic pad? How does the bite nd dust characteristic compare? Quote:
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Why: Good cold bite, aprox 80-90% of OE. After install, I was hard pressed to feel any difference on the first cold stop. The dust is 10% of my OE pads, very normal consistent bite on medium to hard stopping. Does not need a warm up like metallic or race type pads which always feel like you should drag your foot out the door to make sure the first stop even happens. I have 5,000 on mine over 1 year. Hard slowdowns/stops on the hi ways are without drama, the city/town driving which is 80% of my wheel time, everything is golden. Spirited drives are by nature fun fun fun. No I have not done any 100+ repeated stops as that is not my driving style in a SAV. |
You will see a little rotor "bluing" from my break in stops, in the photo above. Normal.
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SOLD. What rotors are those?
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they look like the Centric brand rotors.
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Correct assumption:
Rotors for your application Part Description/Flavor Position Part No. Per Car Qty 2 Brake Discs Premium High Carbon Rotor Front 125.34050 Brake Discs Premium High Carbon Rotor Rear 125.34051 Current pricing from RockAuto CENTRIC 12534050 High Carbon Alloy $58.99 (FRONTS) CENTRIC 12534051 High Carbon Alloy $43.79 (REAR) Manufacturer's Info: Centric Premium black rotors feature Original Equipment specifications and production processes. These Centric rotors are manufactured to meet QS and ISO Quality System Standards. Centric premium rotors utilize an Electrocoating finish that provides long lasting corrosion protection. E-coating is a superior electro-statically applied finish designed to withstand 400 hours of salt water exposure without rusting. Mine have been on one year with approx 5,000 miles of use. Mostly what I call Town and Country driving as I live in the close in suburbs and have a very short drive to most client locations for meetings. I take her out monthly when weather is nice for a 2 hrs or so run to keep things clean. Otherwise, she sits under a cover, freshly detailed, with a Battery tender on. I like all my stuff super clean, so she has a Hard Life.... |
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I have found the Akebonos do not have the initial bite of the OEM pads and require a bit higher pedal pressure, but they are very linear during application and have never exhibited any heat related fade. 2002 X5 3.0 297,200 miles 2014 428i 15,900 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles |
While everyone is debating rotors and pads here, thought I'd post this front brake job DIY video here:
https://youtu.be/Lg26AAfBgYc Also my preference in recent years has been to go 100% OEM with BMW rotors and pads. They bite well, remain quiet, and last a long time. I got tired of "doing the job twice" when ordering discounted parts. |
^They stop well... but dust too much for my OCD to tolerate. I care for my wheels too much, but don't want to pull them every time I wash the X. This is why so many BMW's have pitted wheels. The brake dust builds up sooooo quickly.
Nice video though. Just did a brake job this weekend on the X, but I'm sure the video will help those who have questions. |
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