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2004 E53 Project!!
Good day all!
I have an E39 that I love, but I found this 2004 E53 with the 4.4L for next to nothing. It was a deal I couldn't turn down despite the small problem with the title work that I am still trying to resolve. And so the adventure with this project begins!! Here she is in all her glory! I really do apologize for not getting a picture outside of the garage. It was an after thought, but it would have been too much of an ordeal to pull her back out of the garage just for a picture. Her VIN is: 5UXFB53574LV01785 for those that are curious. She seems fairly well loaded with all the goodies I didn't have in my 2001 version a few years back. She has NAV with the 16:9 display, but the display is not completely perfect. The DVD for the NAV doesn't work right either. The PO moved the CD changer to the glove box. I moved it back today. The interior temp controls were stuck on. I tore that apart yesterday, cleaned it up, and put it back together. I've done a bunch of other small things. The outside mirrors have power fold-in. The DS mirror didn't work for some reason. I pulled that apart and found the stop point had broken off and was getting in the way of normal operation. I'm dealing with an air suspension issue that I will be getting to in a few. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/BWbT1r.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/NH06dd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/QYjDg3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Pzd6ql.jpg And the main reason why I got this so cheap... The motor had a bad knock in the bottom end. I have not diagnosed the exact issue, but I am going to suspect the number 6 cylinder is the cause. It is the only cylinder that I am not getting good power as evident of the valves and spark plug. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/IcnfCC.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/czaz8T.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/LLRsGv.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/QVlU1p.jpg The motor is completely covered in oil and road grime!! The oil pressure sending unit is leaking a ton of oil!! I suspect this is the root cause of the knock. The underside of the motor is a total mess. I am still debating just pulling the motor, cleaning it until it shines, and rebuilding it if the block is still perfect. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/ZQdjgP.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/RtVw64.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/SWsJnQ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/xZAP0r.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/MmDJ7p.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/8iWYLt.jpg Okay, now the fun part everyone!!! I have done the searches. I have combed and sifted through all the posts I could find about the air ride suspension. My X5 is not following suit with the posts I have been reading. There are two fuses for the Air Suspension in the rear, along with the purple relay. However, the two fuses only have a power lead; no feeder to anything else. There is no relay under the cover with the compressor. I could not find the control box behind the glove box. I have the 5 on jack stands now and all the bags check out visually. I can not get the bags to fill cause I can't get the compressor to power up. The two fuses in the back, and the one above the glove box were the only three that I could associate to the Air Suspension. Thoughts?!? http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/43ivtn.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/N6RcBZ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/l1afyQ.jpg Here, I pulled the two fuses for the air suspension. The 7.5A three to the right of the open spot; and the 30A at the right end. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/DVb8tn.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/r5pabZ.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/mVi2B3.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/SifiRu.jpg So, I am at a loss for the Air Suspension! Short of pulling all the panels and tracing the wires, I don't know where else to look for the control module. I'll be updating this as I progress!! Cheers for now!! |
Maybe another member can chime in but it looks like your control box is missing? It's supposed to be behind the glove compartment in a white box. I can't see it from the pics
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Okay wow what a project you have on your hands there. I suspect that some previous owner had a technician pull out a few control elements of your air suspension system because they did not want to deal with fixing it or figuring out what was needed to repair it. So you will have to analyze backwards to see whats missing. I am sorry that I cannot help you on this one, my vehicle is a 2003 X5 and has air only on the rear. There are a number of board members that have your year of vehicle and system and should be able to help you. One note of caution on the vehicle I know that your excited to have it and already tearing into the vehicle but you mention that you are sorting through a title issue with the vehicle. I would not spend any more money on the project until you get clear title of the vehicle. I once had a BMW of a similar situation and I was to receive the title within 30 days of the purchase and well that 30 days grew to 12 months and I had invested some serious coin on the project. Just beware
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I agree with X53. Plus, you are putting a lot of effort and time into the suspension, yet you don't have a clear handle on whether the motor is even any good. Obviously, do what you want, but if it was me, I would prioritize getting the thing running correctly, than get into the ancillaries. For reference, I too thought I had a great deal on a 2001, but have been "challenged" by an engine issue from day one.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Can-t-Be-Good These are super expensive to repair even if you are doing the work yourself. Would love to know what you paid for it if you don't mind sharing. These can make great stories for the uninitiated. If you tackle it, and it's not your primary ride, it can be a great project and learning experience. Please keep us posted. |
Thanks all!! I agree with all three of you!! I am waiting for one more week to see if the PO will just sign the title I have to make everyone's life easier... He still owns it, and will be responsible for the taxes due. And I offered to buy his family dinner just for his time... I have not spent any real money on the project as of today... Just my time figuring things out... Or trying anyway...
The Air Suspension control units I have seen were in black boxes... I have not seen one in a white box... I have one behind the glove box that might be what I am looking for... All the fuses are good... But, when I got the X5, the compressor connector was disconnected... So, I'm going to look at the part number on that module... If I don't get a title for me to keep the vehicle in one piece, I'll tear it apart and part it out. I'll make more than I paid for it if I part it out, but I would rather drive it since it looks so good. $2000, plus $61 to get it home. Cheers all!! |
Haha. Whether you fix it or part out, cannot go wrong with $2000!
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Nice score, and best of luck.
Picture of the said E39? |
Thanks everyone!
Always happy to share pictures!! I don't have any recent pictures of the 540i, but this one was right after I got done putting the motor in, among other things... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/dSct71.jpg Additionally, I just checked the module I thought was the one in question for the Air Ride... It wasn't... It was the alarm module... So, the Air Ride module is still missing... Cheers all!!! |
^looking good. 2001? Look to be Anthracite.
My old anthracite 525i. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps551bbfe9.png |
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Price has went up substantially in the past 4 years Sigh. someday i'll find a good used set |
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Cheers!!! |
I'm going to follow this along you journey. I just bought a 04 e53 with the 4.8 and the PO removed all the air suspension and installed Bilstein Sports with H&R Springs. While these are good o would rather have working air.
Is able to get all the old air suspension parts but haven't been able to figure out why is been removed. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk |
Ugh, should have proof read that. Sorry.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk |
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I can't see why anyone would remove everything if they were just doing a conversion... Unless they just wanted to get rid of the weight... it would be super great if they left the wiring and module... I think it is less hassle to keep hard parts working correctly than it is to have a computer module constantly adjust everything... I want to experience the air ride before I toss in the towel in favor of hard parts... Thanks for the following!! I will attempt to get the title cleared up this coming week... Keep your fingers crossed it works out for me to keep and drive this one when I'm done with it!!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
I figured I was looking for a small, credit card size module for the air ride. Upon further inspection of ALL the modules behind the glove box, I found this: http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/s5EU8o.jpg And this is what it looks like inside... If it matters... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/J6wnxr.jpg So, now I get to figure out if this is the issue or something else... Cheers all!!! |
Good Day All!!
So I am trying to figure out the title issue and getting nowhere fast... So, short of going crazy over it, I figured I would look into the DVD for the NAV. I pulled it apart and could not confirm what the problem was. So, I hooked it back up and just listened to it. I popped the cover off and took a closer look as it was trying to read the DVD I just put in the unit. The noise was isolate nearly perfectly center of the unit that was not associated with the disc spinning... This is what I found when I pulled it apart the second time..... Unfortunately, I have not figured out how to correct the issue... This is the laser drive... (Without the broken plastic part) http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/5WLkwk.jpg This is how the plastic part sits (without the drive screw in place)... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/EU9hsC.jpg These are the two parts that work great together when both are complete. Since the black plastic is broken, it doesn't supply enough grip on the drive screw... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/zLoyRo.jpg So, how do I get the screw drive move the laser assy without the plastic piece that is obviously not cutting it?? I was thinking about wrapping the screw drive with threads of 550 cord and putting them through the arm of the laser assy... But I don't think I could get it tight enough to make a difference without distorting the screw shaft... Anyone?!!? OH, I'm guessing this is a common problem?! If I figure out the fix, that would be super great for those than can fix their own instead of buying one for a considerable amount.... Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I got it... I figured out the issue with the drive and I came up with a near completely free fix for it... The issue was there wasn't enough down force on the plastic part... So, I put a little foam in between the smooth circuit board and the arm... It worked... I was only working with about an eighth of an inch. I used a piece of foam from my old computer case. It had a cloth like tape around it which made it perfect for sliding on the bottom side of the smooth circuit board... Hard to see, but this is the 1/8 inch I had to fill... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/PwKF5x.jpg And this is what it looks like before I put the board back on... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/MOfLgi.jpg So, I figured I'd turn it on and see what happens... I can't believe how out-of-date it looks... Do I need to just update the DVD or am I stuck with what I have?! Cheers all!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, it was driving me crazy to have a beautiful SAV in the garage that needed my attention and not do anything with it. So, I figured I would get it running and if the title didn't work out, I would have a running motor to sell too... This is what I did yesterday... I tweaked my back this morning, so I may take it easy today... I hate getting old!! I took this because I couldn't get the balancer off and figured I missed something. It was just stuck, so be aware if you need to take this off... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Lfj6SH.jpg Alt is out... It was easier to take it out connected... I could have left the other connector in place too, but I pulled that to move the wiring harness out of the way in prep to pull the motor. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/zm1bKh.jpg The fan, radiator, reservoir and bracket, water pump, hoses and lower oil pan is out. PS pump, A/C compressor are off... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/HVojFu.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/U87XX8.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/j3Hgn5.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/RRIIIY.jpg Wiring harness out of the way!! Would pull it, but don't feel like dealing with all the trans wires!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/4xeMJU.jpg And all the stuff!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/Vfwilc.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/sRpuid.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/2C26o8.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/GipKFz.jpg And I love these little bags I got from work!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Y3MsGf.jpg Next is getting the motor out... A few more steps, like pulling the front diff and unbolting the torque converter/trans... Small stuff... Ahem! Until then!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Great news!! I stopped by the previous owners house and he was super nice and signed the title for me. So, all is great and I don't have to tear the X5 apart!! Well, short of fixing it... Which is going to happen rapidly now! Stay tuned as the fun is just about to begin!! Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I didn't get far today because I could not get the half shafts out of the diff... The thought was to get the half shafts out, put the suspension back together so I can roll the X out of the garage after I have the motor out of it. So, what is the process here? Gotta get the inner CV joints out of the diff to get the diff and opposite side support off the oil pan so I can get the silly thing out of the truck (I know it isn't a truck, but I just call it that for simplicity)... I have only seen one reference that has this process, but I can't get the inner CV joint out on either side... Oh, I'm also missing one of the two spindle to strut nuts on the driver side. Noticed it was missing when I started to tear it apart today... Oil pan bolts were loose... I wonder what else has been poorly put back together... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/3swGJW.jpg Oh, I did manage to get the crank bolt out with my 1/2 in drive impact... It did take a little while, but it finally started to move... WIN!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/4tQ3Rs.jpg I'll update more tomorrow if I can figure it out... Cheers all!! |
Good day all!!
This is where I got last night... Got this out... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/ZZ0KuP.jpg But left this in cause I couldn't get it free... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Grncz4.jpg And this is where I stopped last night... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/q7p4vF.jpg Will dive into it more when I get home this afternoon... Cheers all!! |
Good day all!
I didn't get anything done yesterday, but today was a different story!! Figured out how to get the half shafts out... Was going to pull the front diff, but the top bolt is right next to the motor mount and is too hard to get at... Once the pass side half shaft is out, the starter comes out rather easily. Torque converters bolts, bell housing bolts, motor mounts, and oil cooler lines into the block (I forgot about those until it was keeping the motor from moving forward while pulling it)... Here are some pictures... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/UtkxQz.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/ZZ0KuP.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Grncz4.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/iMdR5T.jpg And finally the motor is on its way out!! I broke the silly connector for the left valvtronic position sensor... Just the connector locking tab though... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/kNRXL7.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/hnlV98.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/YDQ5oF.jpg Trans is sitting on the sway bar which works out great for me to move it if needed!! And I have no idea how anyone gets that front drive shaft out without taking out the T-case or diff!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/UsDwsN.jpg I had to put spacers to clear the flywheel... I can't wait to see the internals!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/4I8Kka.jpg Don't forget about this bolt!! I hope I didn't bend the tubes on mine... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/0jOpO1.jpg Hard to read with all the oil and dirt... Of course as soon as I clean it off, it will be a white sticker... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/VsB15I.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/CLsfwz.jpg Had to put this 3/4 drive socket on here to rotate the crank... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/abB6QK.jpg And where I stopped for the night!! I gotta get some parts cleaner for my washer. I'm sure I will need a lot of it! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Qtu62M.jpg Until tomorrow!! Cheers all!! |
If it was my project.....I'll remove the front bumper..headlights...rad support...etc. and will be a lot easier to strip-out the motor and tranny.
This way get you plenty of room to manoeuvre stands and jacks. Nevertheless....Awesome work! |
Halfshafts should just pop out of the diff; I've always just smacked the edge of the large rectangular bit that houses the tripod joint with a brass punch and a drilling hammer.
Quite the project; cant wait to see what #6 looks like. |
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Good luck with your project. Please keep up with updates. |
Good day all!!!
Just about ready to start on the motor... I also need to fire up my pressure washer today... That engine bay needs a serious bath!! Quote:
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http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/1F9EgG.jpg I actually figured the half shafts were the same between left and right... And there was an extension piece that went through the oil pan... So, I feel sorry for the one that has to replace the right side half shaft!!! That thing is probably twice as much as the left side! Quote:
Thanks all!! I'll keep the updates coming!! |
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Do yourself a favor and replace the halfshaft seals while you have them out... one on the front diff, the other on the aluminum extension bracket. They're only a few bucks each. And maybe the o-ring between the diff and the pan on the driver side. |
Good day all!!
And the outcome for today! Lots of pictures, so please don't shoot me!! First and foremost, I cleaned the operating room!! And arranged all my tools for easy access... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Ts1dF1.jpg Off comes the cam shafts... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/nKSFM6.jpg I actually have this one upside down so you can see the engraving... It says RA3... That is R=right side in relation to facing the motor (not like if you were sitting in the car). A=Auslauf (German for outlet). And 3 is the third cap from the front... There is also RE1... E=Einlass (German for inlet). Additionally, the caps that have the oil line holders like this one are very hard to get turning... So, don't think there is something wrong if they take more force to get moving... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/u2tAni.jpg This is the Driver Side (DS)... The exhaust cam bolt was terribly loose for some reason... I didn't think to check the timing prior to pulling it apart cause I figured the noise I heard was from the bottom end... It was not the bottom end... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/ZyeKBD.jpg And the cams are out... The exhaust manifolds are off... Motor mounts are off... Valley pan is off... All bolts back where they came from... Valley pan bolts were terribly nasty so I left them off... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/p1tE2r.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/7KTFRK.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/uq4Koz.jpg And where the parts are going... I had labeled them R and L, but that is prior to figuring out they don't correspond to the right and left of the car... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/Ggo6X5.jpg This is where I put the lifter and rocker for each position... With the help of my better half, we labeled these RE12, RE23, RE32, RE34, RE43, RE45, RE54, and RE5-...... I will explain it if anyone needs me to... I did that for all four rows (RE, RA, LE, and LA).... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/HBBYT0.jpg Don't forget these bolts when pulling the heads... The head will NOT come off if these are still in place... Really!! I tried... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/8P6FhN.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/qzFqUb.jpg Here is the first viewing with the gasket in place... First the PS or left, then the DS or right... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/F1B9rt.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/mkgLBT.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/kPBT9d.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/48CbFI.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/1NOZkx.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/wtJdrN.jpg And a close up of the concerns!! I'll post some older pictures that reveal the timing was indeed off, I just didn't notice it at the time! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/tc5Anb.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/9RMQ5v.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/U493he.jpg Here are the older pictures of the timing... They aren't the best, but I think you will be able to make out the position of the flats on the cams... First the PS that is in time, then the DS that is off... Not sure by how much by looking at the picture, but they are NOT in time... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/rRwBkM.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/LLRsGv.jpg Here is the damaged head... Only valves at this point... I hope that is the extent of the damage as these valves didn't hit hard enough to damage the piston... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/f8uPEE.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/8qRLZ9.jpg The other head is fine... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/u33gj4.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/fgcyyK.jpg Here is the block under the gaskets... No cracks!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/6MWidI.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/gVX73H.jpg And here is the crazy water gasket that always fails... This looks worse than just normal failure... Not sure how it got like this... Reused?! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/jVKASF.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/uzGJK2.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/zOODCe.jpg And finally, the bottom... Don't get stressed if you encounter some oil pan bolts that take time to come out... only five or six of mine were an issue, but that's cause they had some blue lock-tight stuff on them... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/nzs7HJ.jpg I put the oil pump bolts back where they came from... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/StBFTd.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/s14DDO.jpg So, that is where I stopped... The real question is do I tear it down more?! All the caps seem to be tight and the crank turns effortlessly with no pinging of any kind... The impressions on the top of the pistons are hardly noticeable and the valves that are bent are barely bent... I personally think I can get away with keeping the bottom end as is and rebuilding the heads... Replace all gaskets and call it good... Your thoughts please!!! Cheers!! |
Go for the whole hog!
You're almost there! A full rebuild will keep your sanity and your SAV will live a lot longer! Snap!..........forgot the tranny.:o |
Nice progress.
If this were mine, I'd consider rod bearings at least, given how far you have it apart. Maybe pull a pair of the caps on one of the journals and see what kind of wear you have. A strip of Plastigauge is only a buck or two. |
Good day all!
New rod and main bearings will add about $343 or so to the total, but I think yous guys are right! I may as well do it since I'm right there already. I have to work today and tomorrow, so it'll be Sunday when I can get back to it. Think I'll send the block, crank and heads off for checking and cleaning before reassembly. I'll give me time to get my parts list and get them ordered. I was looking over the parts needed last night. I was shocked to find out the head gaskets are the same part number for both sides. I'll keep yous posted! Cheers all! |
This thread is going to be one valuable resource for anyone re-building an N62. Very nice work sir. Looking forward to more updates.
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loving this thread.
I would not sink more money than necessary in a car that has so many issues. Just my opinion. |
Thanks all for the comments! I think it is a good idea to do it all. It might take me some time to get it all posted due to delays with parts arrival! The X5 is in amazing condition and has a ton of options! The motor issue was the worst! The air ride is probably a result of the thing not running. I'll battle that after it is running. I'll probably be constantly stealing it from my better half after it's back on the road!
Until Sunday.... Cheers all! |
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You guys are awesome...that's all I wanted to say 😆
BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
Thanks everyone!! You all really are the best!!
This is the latest and greatest!! I got this in the mail the other day and figured I would share... I got this instead of the other, more complicated and more expensive version... I can't wait until I am ready to use this!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/rnV74r.jpg It doesn't really fit in the foam, but I made it work... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/8drVod.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/8Kyfm4.jpg I marked the rods so they go back where they came from! Oddly, the right and left bank connecting rods were made a day apart... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/tYRAai.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/if7bHV.jpg Didn't take any pictures during the crank pull... Here is the block with the crank finally out... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/BMCXS3.jpg The caps are numbered 1 thru 5 from front to rear... The front main bearing was the only one that I didn't think looked perfect... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/Cv0lav.jpg The rest were not bad at all!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Kyz84P.jpg #3 http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/VAVuIu.jpg #4 http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/Mct8Vh.jpg #5 and the only one with thrust bearings... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/huXWsG.jpg Everything was glossy and smooth on the crank... May still take it to the machine shop, along with the block to get their thumbs up before re-assembly!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/bfpw11.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/6UhB5i.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Wo1E4E.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/lJTV2c.jpg And the internals... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/eVuLkJ.jpg The connecting rods... I'm guessing the letters on them mean the bearings needed... I haven't done the research yet on the rods, but I do know the code on the block indicate what main bearings are needed... Get to that in a few! These are cyl 5 thru 8... 5=JD, 6=IF, 7=IH, 8=IP... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/GjWouz.jpg And here is a shot of the main caps number... Hard to see though... This one is #5 and the next is #3... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/pLM3Nw.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/rZ2nT0.jpg And the four bolt main caps... After you torque the main bolts, you snug these spacers to something like 16 ft/lbs, then torque the outer bolts... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/Ww61zL.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/YIi8Bf.jpg Here is the code for the main cap bearings... All mine are the same... "G" means Green... It doesn't mean they are "Good To Go"... It is a color code BMW uses... Hard to see, but they are "GGGGG" in the upper right hand corner... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/v7WuBj.jpg This is the section on the connecting rods... This is the connecting rod bolt... Odd!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/XBlplA.jpg This is how all the rod bearings looked... Not scored, but normal wear... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/wcKmQN.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/tmotTN.jpg The cylinders... Think this is cyl #1... Dirty, but cleaned up nicely after wiping them out with just a clean cloth... No imperfections noted when running my fingers over it... http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/lnhzZC.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/8xlvPl.jpg I pulled one of the damaged pistons off the connecting rod... I pulled the rings out and put them in the cylinder to see how they were gapped from the factory... Not bad at all!! http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/5hXfdb.jpg Oh, the rings different... The top ring is thinner than the second... The oil ring is almost the same thickness as the second compression ring... There is engraving on the top of the piston... 91,986 and 25H2 on one side... An arrow pointing forward on the other side... I'm guessing 91.986 is the diameter in millimeters... Well, that is all I have for now... It's Easter!! Go have lots of food and enjoy the day!!! Cheers for now!!!! |
Good day all!!
I am looking into getting a reliable valve spring compressor... Or maybe make one with parts from another set I have... In the mean time, I'm reaching out for your thoughts on the bearings and rings... Should I stay with the factory items "just cause" or would it be just fine to look into aftermarket piston rings and rod bearings?? I found a set of pistons, rings, pins, and locking clips on ebay for $350... That is for everything... I think one set of rings for ONE piston is something like $217 from BMW (according to realoem dot com)... Is that right?! Or did I read that incorrectly?? And what are your thoughts about the Victor / Reinz gasket sets? Think it would be bad to reuse the piston rings after I clean them up to "like-new" condition?! That is what I have done in the past without any negative effects, even long term... Okay, I'm off to look for a valve spring compressor I like! Cheers!! |
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I'm not a fan of Total Seal rings. They either work or they don't and you're hating life. Some people have better luck than others with them...
I can't remember the mileage on this motor...please post it (again if you've already posted it and I missed it above). I forgot to ask how you fun her? Random luck or ? Also, if you could post pics of all the rod bearings, that'd be useful for something else I'm doing wrt the S65 motor (rod bearing failures are surprisingly high w/the S65). Thanks for documenting this! |
Good day all!!
Okay, so I am going over my list of parts I need and I'm coming up with a lot of questions concerning the kits!! I can't get a positive verification what parts are in the kits... The kit is $229... The list I do have concerning the parts in the kit don't add up to the kit price... It's almost like being charged a fee for putting the kit together... Which doesn't make sense... Is there anyone out there that knows what the kits consist of?! My list isn't complete yet, and I'm almost at $1795 for parts alone... That doesn't include bearings because I want to make sure I get the right size after the parts come back from the machine shop... Nor the three pistons I have to replace... Here are the part numbers for the two kits... 11110304864 and 11127518017... Thanks all!!! Cheers!! |
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Still curious about the mileage on the X5. Those bearings look pretty good (#4 is a bit sketch), assuming about 80k-100k miles or so on the engine. |
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I'm not familiar with that software... I'll look into it. I have a great vendor with a good bit of discounted prices for OEM parts, but others are a little "dealership inflated"... I don't have the battery connected, but IIRC, it is somewhere around 164,853... That is on the truck, but I'm not positive it's the original motor... Thanks much!! Cheers!! |
BMW Part Number Price Comparison: About
get that. it doesn't even install. Just runs on your pc. It is really cool. Also, if you don't mind waiting on shipping, I would give Craig at Open Road BMW a call. He gives BMW clubs discounts, to the tune of 15% over cost. Just say you are from xoutpost club and that's it. [email protected] 732-839-4548. You will rarely get a better price. But still, compare it with the pnc tool above. |
Good day all!!
Thanks for the info on PNPC!!! I got the parts list for the two kits thanks to my local dealer!! https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/TNEZxR.png https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/TXmtPw.png I hope this helps someone else out!!! Cheers!! |
Wow, nearly 165k miles! Those bearings look damn good for that many miles. Thanks.
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Good day all!!!
I just have to share this with everyone!! Maybe it is me expecting too much!! Oh, I don't know... Am I over reacting here?! So, the deal is that I got a set of 8 piston/rod combs off ebay... The feedback was 99.9% so I figured they were a good choice... I got the set of 8 piston/rod combs in a bag that was in a box with paper around the bag as filler... Yep... 8 piston/rod combos tossed in a bag with nothing but air to keep them apart... Not one made it to my house in useable condition... What a complete waste of perfectly good parts!! So frustrating!! And the search continues!! All I need are three pistons... I'm sure I can reuse the rods!! https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/ehBofX.jpg This is the first one I pulled out... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/1V6vvJ.jpg I'm working out the details on my valve spring compressor using the one for my Jag XK8 rebuild.... Cheers for now!!! |
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So you just paid for handling someone elses garbage???? They just put the pistons in a box and no wrapping etc.? WOW sorry to hear. Did these come from a dismantler? Even they usually package to ship. |
That sucks. I'd demand your money back.
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That's just wrong. Had I shipped those, each one would be individually wrapped, if not boxed. I'd send them back and demand a refund.
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You deserve to get return shipping refunded. Email the seller through ebay and if he says anything but yes make a case with ebay. Warn him this is your intention if he does not do an immediate refund for the parts and return shipping. Hell, I would make him send you a prepaid ups label and then have ups come and pick it up at his expense.
I do not tolerate monkey business sellers like this and I have won every single time. Sometimes they even let me keep the junk part for free. |
I agree!! Totally!! I'm completely livid about this transaction!! Mainly for the waste of 8 perfectly good rod/piston combos!! It gets better!! This is what I just got from the seller...... Oh, I did send the same pictures that are on here...
"They should be okay. Do you see any damage on them? Sorry, I'm in peru until the 10th of april, so service is spotty. If you write me back I'll try to answer when I have service. Thanks" So, we will see if this refund happens as rapidly as I paid him... Stay tuned... I think the outcome will be interesting!! |
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Good day all!!
The latest and greatest with the used pistons... I'm using ebay return policy... I have to wait for the damaged pistons to arrive back to the seller before I get my refund... If they have a restocking fee for having a perfect item returned due to buyer error, there should be a replenish fee for having a damaged item returned due to seller error!!!! What are their restocking fees? 15%!?!? The guy is still insistent on the pistons being okay. Amazing... Oh well... Cheers for now!! |
That picture of the piston looks like it made love to a valve or something. I would be suspicious of the rods too.
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The seller of these clearly has no experience in engine building/rebuilding. A nick as small as .5mm on the skirt or in a ring land is the difference between usable and scrap.
The rods are likely usable; I always have them shotpeened and the bigends resized. But no way I'd trust alloy pistons rolling around in a box of steel conrods - no question which part is going to win that battle. |
Good day all!!
I got the good news yesterday that the seller is refunding me on the pistons... I have to send them back and wait the six days after they get the eight individually wrapped piston/rod combos that are secured in a shoe box that will be put in a larger box with paper around everything... But, I'm not gonna have to fight him on his error... I used the brown paper they sent around the bag of pistons to wrap each for the return trip. I found this piece of piston in the bottom of the box, then found the piston it came from... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/36c5n6.jpg And my wrapping/packaging... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/yecXB9.jpg Here is one valve I managed to pull from the DS head off my motor... Don't think this is quite right... https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/pCSbXj.jpg My valve spring compressor is not perfect enough to deal with for 32 valves... Gonna go another direction and have it mounted to the workbench... More to come... Cheers all!!! |
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Wow you are showing the seller how to properly wrap and ship a set of pistons that are all damaged. Maybe he or she can learn few things from yur wrapping job. |
Good day all!! Here is the latest and greatest from the garage...
New toys since mine is nearly ten years old... Or more!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psl93xnq2a.jpg These are the valve springs... The intake are shorter... Additionally, if you look at the springs, all the intake springs end at the same side it starts... The exhaust, while being taller, end 90 deg from where it starts... I've lined them up, more or less for viewing pleasure!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psus1voxgs.jpg And all clean!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psi2uxukm9.jpg Okay, pulling the seals off should be straight forward... I'll put how I did it in here in the event someone is having issues... Long needle nose... These are cheap and flex a lot... Tight grip is better... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps8xfqepmr.jpg Twist slowly until it releases and moves... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psvkg5dn1f.jpg Once it releases, just pull up and off... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psvknotxal.jpg Dirty block... Not crazy heavy, but be gentle!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pstnjnnrwf.jpg And all clean!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps6fahxfjb.jpg Dirty head... All apart!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscqcro8ky.jpg And all clean!! Side by side... Amazing!!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscntcc7k8.jpg And all the caps... Clean!! All numbered so no mixing up... Even the cams are marked... It is almost impossible to mix these up due to confusion!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psguvllpib.jpg Cam mark... EIN 58... There is also EIN 14, AUS 14, and AUS 58... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psei3ozen4.jpg And the fun stuff... This is the finished product... I didn't get pictures of it as I was pulling it apart... So, I'll work backwards with the pictures... Make sure you pull the eccentric cam sensor... If broken, it will cost you a hefty $350 from the dealer... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps8zhoadri.jpg If the cam isn't lined up like this, you will more than likely have a couple of, what BMW calls, idle levers out of place... The cam lobe will push the idle lever forward and off the spring... I had trouble getting the cam in the perfect spot to keep all idle levers from popping out of position... This seems to be the magical position... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps2ybvv17s.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psfcyiajeo.jpg To start, you can rotate the cam until they idle levers are all like this, or use a strong hook to pull the spring up and pull the levers out... I made sure they were put back in their original location, as I think you should as well... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psidepxmuo.jpg Just pull the bolt holding the spring... The caps will come off, so be ready!! And these do come apart for cleaning... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psnruae5uo.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps8262teew.jpg These are numbered too... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps8czlrb5m.jpg pull these off like this for cleaning or replacement... The bearings do come off... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psm4tql2rz.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps357mrpji.jpg Gotta tilt to get it out... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps70gwvt4j.jpg And these are directional bearing shells... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psrgd1wva3.jpg So, assy is reverse of tear-down... This is the DS intake... I didn't get to the PS intake assy yet... That will be next time... If you have any picture requests, don't hesitate to ask!! Cheers for now!! |
Man are you having fun or what!!!!
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Cheers!!! |
Looks great. Did you pull the oil squirters from the block to clean out any crud?
Whenever I have a block machined, I take it to the local high pressure car wash. A few cans of gunk and a couple of brushes from the dollar store and it looks great. Dirt and machining grit is not your friend. I'm always amazed at what else comes out when it looks "clean". |
What are you using to clean all this with? The block and heads look amazing!
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Good news everyone!!! I got my six valves today... I still don't have my valve stem seals yet, but I hope to get that box soon enough!!! Here is the box the six valves I need came in... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psgk9p1ild.jpg I'm sure there is a complete DS cyl head along with the six valves I need... I had to work the past three days, so not much got done... Soaking valley pan bolts in the cleaner... But that is about it... I'll be pulling the cyl head apart tomorrow... Let me know if you need something... Cheers until tomorrow!!! |
Good day all!!!
Well, I got some more cleaning done and a little assembly, as it turns out... I'm still waiting on the valve stem seals and rod bearings, so no pistons can go in, nor can I finish assembling the heads... All parts of the heads are cleaned and ready to assemble... This seller knows how to protect the item they are selling!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pswd6xiqtr.jpg This is the alignment for the intake cam... You will have to tweak it's position in the eccentric valvetronic assembly... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psdwvuxnch.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps666tvxkv.jpg And all complete, kinda... Would be complete if I had valve stem seals... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pssuekizzp.jpg This is what came out of purging the oil squirters... loosened the bolts first, then purged with compressed air... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps1aw9ttbd.jpg Crank caps in place... The torque on these, as per the internet, is 20nm (177.02 in/lbs)... this is step one of three... In the event you were unaware, the conversion from nm's to in/lbs, you multiply the nm needed by 8.851... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psssgm33qw.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps2lplpjp6.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psolxlqgtn.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psphezdqyn.jpg And part two... tighten the spacer bushing to 6nm or 53.106 in/lbs... (took picture prior to completing step one, obviously)... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psdgsy5fai.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psolujo7ds.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psqkebcqsj.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psv2npjbx6.jpg Okay, this is where my curiosity got the best of me!! The third step is to tighten the 10 main caps 100 deg... So, I was going to use the two adapters up to my 3/4 inch breaker bar set-up to make the 100 deg easier... Then I figured it would be good to know how tight the extra 100 deg would make the bolts... So, I used my new 1/2 drive torque wrench to get that number... I started at 100... Then 80... then 60... then 70... then 65... then 68... and 69 and 69 and 68... So, somewhere around 68 ft/lbs is the main cap bolt torque... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psh93ua7z3.jpg With that finished, I moved on to assembly of the clean left valvetronic assembly... Here are the other three cams... The exhaust cams seem like they are made at a different location as they are considerably smoother on the non-machined surfaces... noticeably smoother and generally more detailed... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psvps2zivg.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psnbgtgqdc.jpg And the completed assembly... this is the ideal position for the cam so the levers don't jump out of place... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pskjobke1i.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pszyfd1onc.jpg That is it for now... More to come!! Cheers all for now!!! |
Man, Awesome Progress!
So much work done in a month!:thumbup: |
Hi all
new member and BMW owner (e53 4.6is) this is really interesting stuff i am so impressed. top fella.. quick off the thread but is there a newbie introduction page to the forum? would like to post my experience so far. keep up the good work, that's every one on the forum, not just williamx5 |
you are missing the point on tightening main caps(and many other fasteners)to a specified "degree", not torque. The reason they do this is 1-bolts are often one time use and they stretch. the second is that to use a degree wheel specified for tightening is much more reliable than a random torque wrench. I have used torque wrench for years, but when I just re did my M62 I learned that I needed to do things differently. You weren't clear as to whether you used the right tool or not. If you didn't, I would recommend doing it all again per the factory instructions.
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The search function works really well... A few key words and it should get you to the posts that you need... Enjoy!! Quote:
Additionally, where it really doesn't matter too much with two bolts holding a cap in place, the head bolt pattern is very different... I will go over this in far more detail when I get there, but I experienced a huge difference in torque value between the head bolts when I did my 2001 540i 4.4L... If you just tighten to 33 ft/lbs, then do 100*, then do another 100*, all three steps in the correct sequence, I found the first four bolts tightened were of a significantly lower torque... I discovered that if you leave all head bolts at 33 ft/lbs on one pass, the force to get the first few bolts to 33 was relaxed as the other bolts took their share of the load... I did three passes, in sequence to finally get all the bolts to share the same load at 33 ft/lbs... What I really need is one of those doohickey things hanging from my ceiling that tightens all to the right torque all at the same time!! Anyone have one I can use?! Talk about time savings!! Again, not a debate, just me sharing how I'm having fun!! Thanks for sharing!! |
Amazing work.
I'm sure you aren't worried about the resulting tq number on the bolts... seems you've done this before and will be okay. Keep up the good work. Me, on the other hand, would be sh*tting bricks... ;) I've done a couple of heads and the torquing procedure always scares the hell out of me. |
Great progress. I like your torquing procedure/ value discovery.
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Good day all!!!
Thanks guys and gals!!! So, today I was bored and only had stuff to clean... Still no new parts... Got an email stating that they had to wait on some parts from "BMW" and would get the stuff sent out as soon as the complete order is together... That will "learn me" to order everything at once... I found these in the hardware for the valley pan... I have a bunch of hardware left over from my other projects and actually had exact matches for these... I think I also have to replace a few from the rear cover too... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psazakma3x.jpg Oh, probably to the disapproval of some out there, I refuse to put a new cover on the rear and valley pan because they don't just sell the gasket... And, it begs the definition of insanity to keep doing the same thing expecting a different result... I'm ditching the factory seal and going 100% high temp sealant... I don't feel like pulling the stupid thing back apart cause of a coolant leak at the rear of the motor... This is the oil pump... I don't think anyone has pulled this apart to see what it looks like on the inside, so I figured I would... To my surprise, I found the top filter spring inside the pump... Here is the dirty pump pulled apart... I did have all the bolts in the location they came from, but they fell out moving to the work bench... So, that was a puzzle too... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psw3xjc6h6.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psak2iko1a.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pspckemggb.jpg Don't forget about the spring... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5grqxq6m.jpg Goes here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pskftdgt1y.jpg These go here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psaxrpa8il.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps0dkwbw6r.jpg These have dots on one side... They weren't facing the same way for some reason... I doubt it matters and was just put together in Italy this way... It is hard to see the dot on the ring... It is at the top of the ring... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pswcsnbarl.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psoibcojg1.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psey6e3bqb.jpg Sleeve locks drive shaft in the pump... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psykkygf33.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psnjdcptay.jpg They can't get mixed up if the pump is to actually work again... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5sn3bvz2.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psyokureth.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psaqa68uct.jpg I figured out that all the bolts needed to stick out this far prior to tightening... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps5oyzodbt.jpg The longer, thinner tube will start before the larger pipe so no fighting in getting them both started... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pszzwtsm7r.jpg You should turn the drive shaft while pushing the end piece on... it is a tight fit, so be patient!! This locates the end piece, but it would be better to tighten these with all parts locked in where they should be first... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pskt8jpdm2.jpg This is what it should look like when it's on all the way... both machined ends should be just barely visible on the large pipe... the thinner tube is squashed in place... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pstwlqmrjh.jpg The mounting bolt hole for the side with the drive shaft has almost no clearance compared to the other five mounting points... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscp2papx8.jpg All four main parts had engraved numbers... none matched... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psrmxhlgiv.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psr9gqjhh6.jpg This is the pump pick-up screen... This is stout! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pscofxg9gx.jpg and goes here... Gasket goes on next... and this can get put on backwards... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psmmqwxezt.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps4m6vqoj1.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psctphyonu.jpg Getting these lock rings out wasn't too hard once I figured out how... This method is dangerous!! I had one pop out and landed outside of the garage... Cover with your hand and use the pliers to hold on to it! Only the one tip of the pliers is in here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psenqgkej2.jpg Put one end in and get the pliers under the ring... squeeze ring with the pliers and push down until it pops out... violently... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pseflo90o5.jpg It is a shame I had to buy whole new parts... the plastic part, with it's own part number, is the only thing that needs to be new... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps0u5ljuwz.jpg These looked nearly new... by comparison of the other 4.4L BMW motors I've done... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psod3qkxbw.jpg And the best part of the day... Trying to get this plug out, I discovered a previous owner or shop tech over tightened the drain plug and rounded it out fairly well... Not sure if yous guys and gals know, but there is a torque setting on the cap itself... one for the plug and one for the cap... Sheesh!!! I need a new drain plug... No normal bolt will do... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps7mwahlco.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psemxrw5iu.jpg Oh, one more thing... I took the center of the filter housing out... Just cause... it seemed as if the machining of the threads didn't go well... it broke some threads coming out and the plastic threads looks wavy in one location... I've never had issues taking them out before today... In the event they do that on purpose (instead of using Loctite), I'd advise you leave yours in place... That is about it... I did clean up the chain covers... oil pan is next... maybe I will get some parts soon!!! Cheers all!!! |
Excellent work and progress! I have a small request/question if you don't mind: Did you pull out the oil filter housing that's attached to the oil pump by any chance? There is a spring valve in there that for some of us has fallen out during oil change and has created quite a debate on the nessesity of it. I posted a pic of mine in one of my threads (pressure relief valve falls out during oil change (or something like that)). You have already confirmed it's not in the oil pump which is good news.
BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
^He is working on an M62. Not sure, but I think the N62 filter setup is completely different if you are talking about the X5 in your signature.
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My internet is acting like dial-up today, but I finally got to that thread you posted at the end of March... I only saw a picture of the oil pump... However, this is the spring I found inside my oil pump... Now, keep in mind I pulled the pump when the engine was on the stand... And I put the pump on the floor in the garage with it "upside down" as in relation to how it's positioned in a running motor... I'm surprised more debris didn't get in there... Food for thought!!! Keep the cap on when storing!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psskzfacpy.jpg I'm guessing this is where it goes... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psvxymutoc.jpg Ideally, this is also the part that I took off that seemed like things weren't quite right... Like the threads (where the dark center plastic piece threads into) got buggered up somehow, but was still used... This was made in Italy... This should come out and is actually part #2 in the picture from your post... Part #1 is only $93... I may get one if I can't find a good used part... I'll inquire about that today... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pshbakghmc.jpg That part is also where the spring came from (I'M GUESSING!) as there wasn't anywhere else it would look right... There is another spring under this one that keeps a valve closed... Not positive what that is for, but I'm going to guess it is for pressure relief if the filter becomes so clogged that oil can't pass thru it... Let me know if this helped... I'll take more pictures if needed... Cheers!! UPDATE!!! The Realoem filter housing price is seriously outdated... #1 in the picture above is no longer $92.03... It now has an MSRP of $310.23... I'll be sticking with the one I have... |
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BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
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All these different motors are confusing!!! Cheers!!! |
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Attachment 69124 From looks of it it seems to be a good/only spot for the spring ro rest, i cant see where else it would go now that you have the whole assembly out and visible...Correction: I just realized that you said the pump is upside down in your picture...meaning when it is assembled you'd see this spring from underneath the car (after opening the filter cup? right? If so then it cant be right...at least not for me as my four pieces won't allow the cup to be screwed back on if placed in that location. The cost of the whole assembly has risen considerably like you noted so if I can fix min by putting the pieces back then I'm one happy camper. BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
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This is all guesstimation as we don't have one that is complete... I really don't see where it is necessary... I wish I had the other parts... Cheers!! |
Yes, we went around each other there...N62 it is....back on track :)
You explanation makes perfect sense, it's just that I couldn't get the filter cup back on ones I put them there. How long do you think it will be until you reassemble the oil pump back on the car? I don't mind shipping my parts over to you so you can have a Sherlock Holmes moment and solve this mystery ones and for all....you'd be doing us a HUGE favor. Since I currently live in Norway I'm guessing it would take a few days to reach you. It's just a thought, no pressure intended. |
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I didn't realize you were so far away... Let me take a look around here and see what I can find... I did go out and take a look at what I have... I had to use my old nasty filter since I didn't get my parts yet... BUT, I did find out that the spring will NOT go on that center "Supporting Dome" as BMW calls it... The filter actually seals at the top on the supporting dome... So, no spring or other parts between the filter housing and filter... Between the filter and the cap is another story... I put the spring I found between the cap and old filter... It fits with room to spare... So, this won't work... the filter seals up right where the spring is here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psohv4bazn.jpg There is a round cut out for a washer or something in the cap here... The first cut near the brass in the center (not the tall lip where the filter connects)... Not positive!! http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pst57wh3lc.jpg And the spring is in between the cap and filter... I again don't know if there is enough room for the other parts... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psixf90gtk.jpg So, I think it is a drain stop to keep your fingers clean when changing oil... but ends up breaking or coming out upon the first oil change since the filter is so difficult to remove... I hope this helps!! Cheers!! |
The round cut near the brass center is too small for the washer, I tried to fit it there without luck. I think we are getting closer to an answer though....first thing tomorrow I'll go out and take pictures of the parts assembled in various ways and in steps and hopefully that will give you more to inspect with on your pump.
You are a kind soul for going out of you way...much appreciated. |
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Cheers!! |
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Good day to you. Here are a few pictures...hope they help.
Pic1. All the parts separated. The item furthest to the left came out flying first followed by the spring and the plastic bit....the washer I found on the ground after trying to see if I got all that fell out and to be honest I'm doubting it even belongs there now. :dunno: Pic 2 & 3: I am guessing here that the spring goes inside the housing and the plastic but on top (flat end inside the spring), this way when pressing on the plastic bit the spring will compress. Pic 4 & 5: Different ways of positioning the washer. I don't think either of them are correct. Especially the fifth pic, that way the spring cannot be compressed by the plastic piece. Pic 6: Just showing how the plastic piece fits inside the spring. There is no other place that plastic piece goes...i tried inserting it into the housing but the mid diameter is too big on the plastic bit. I can't separate the images and add text between them like you do....sorry about that. Let me know what you think. |
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BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
GOOD DAY ALL!!
FOUND IT!! Or I am fairly confident I found it... You were lucky to have all the parts... I only had the spring, and that was probably because it got trapped on the other side of the opening... It looks to be a flow valve for the two halves of the pump... It looks like a restriction for the larger pump gears... Yep, I pulled it apart again to confirm... This is where my spring ended up... There is no machine work done to this side of the port... Flow goes thru this port to the filter, but the spring just couldn't get turned the correct way to "go with the flow"... So, it stayed right here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psyfwtlgch.jpg This is the other side... See the spring, barely? http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps2chewn2m.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psrukyqdhu.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psmrvwqpu7.jpg Okay, I tried multiple times to get a closer picture... Wouldn't work for me, stupid phone!! But the guesstimated measurements are about 23.45mm for the largest diameter, 21.8mm for the next one, and I didn't measure the pass thru hole... I'm going to guess it fits that three legged plug you have... Cup, spring, plug (legs up) is the order... Like you have it in pic three... Now, about that washer... There is no oil residue on it, so I am going to say it was just in the wrong place at the wrong time to be in this line-up... With the ring at the base of that cup, I'll bet the outer diameter of it is about 21.XX mm... Or something like that... And that line is about 14.8-15.2mm from the bottom of the cup... There is also a beveled edge on the inner hole... Probably mates up to the angle on the plug... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psm0y5f8ty.jpg Now, is it needed?! I doubt it... Can you have too much flow from the pump?! Is it used to divert pressure to another item?! Possibly... That huge valve is right there... I can't get the cap off to pull the valve out... It's a 16.5mm allen or something like that... I hope this helps!! Cheers!! |
William, you are a star! Thank you so much for this!
I agree with you on the washer...even the prints on it don't go with the assembly. The diameters are roughly the same here (quick look with the ruler). Seeing now how it lines up in there, I can understand the logic. It allows oil to pass through but not back...just like the awesome members on this forum guessed. Now, considering that oil still goes back through another valve I see no interruption in the flow nor any "starvation" of oil when engine is off. I'm I correct in saying that? Nevertheless, the car seems to run just as good without it but I'll make sure to reinstall it when the day comes...finalising on the solution :) Cheers buddy BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
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Thoughts anyone?! Cheers for now!!! Got an email today that some of my new parts are in the mail... Probably get the box by this weekend or early next week... Until then...... |
Good day all!
So, I had to get the cap off in order to see the valves inside... I'm not entirely positive if this is a pressure loop thing or a dedicated oil supply to the oil squirters if the pressure is high enough... I'll explain in a few... I don't have a 16mm allen bit socket, so I had to find something that fit... Oddly, I did... This is what I found that worked... It is an alt belt tensioner arm for my 2001 540i... I got it with the block I pulled from the pull-it-yard... It worked great!! Lots of light taps... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psklbfkpbm.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psjoftepgv.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psb6mryckx.jpg Here are the valves... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psm7azzuaj.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ps6q2u0xqv.jpg And this is the only thing I can see as to why this is even here... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...pssoretzj1.jpg This goes to the small tube and bypasses the filter... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psd0yt9c3c.jpg Filter side... flow-in the center, flow-out on the lower left of the picture... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psbopeh6i6.jpg Out... http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...psk89xwb5p.jpg So, there is the break-down of the oil pump... Cheers for now... UPS should have my stuff here by this weekend... It will have to wait till Monday... |
Hello, to be honest I wouldn't get a new pump just for that piece....if it was that important then surely they would have made it more secure to start with. Just like the bigger valve you just opened. Other members on here and other forums have driven their cars for many K miles without it and had no issues whatsoever. I can just imagine how many more owners have had that valve fall out without their knowledge and will never know until they pull the pump...yet their car is running fine.
I'm putting mine back only to see how it sits but I won't leave it there if I feel it will pop out again...and to basically finalize on this issue (other owners will need to know). Your input and dissection of the pump has been priceless, hopefully others will be able to use it and maybe add more valuable info in the future. |
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Good day!! Thanks so much!! I am glad I had the pump still out and avail to tear apart... Fun stuff for me so bring it on!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
It is indeed a nice day out!! I have been working for the past few days and I'm getting ready for my new job so things have been hectic... I got the box of parts yesterday, but everything is not totally clean yet so I'm still not at the assembly stage... I am having trouble getting the carbon build-up off the valves... But it is just slow going... Here is the box I got yesterday... I didn't even know they delivered it until today... I had to run an errand yesterday and must have been when it was dropped off... Anyway... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszuk5gbk5.jpg The box doesn't actually contain floor mats... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqxmh4ozz.jpg These are the rod end... I am missing the cap end... Not sure of the difference, but they have different part numbers for the same size (STD)(+.25) and so on for the top and bottom shell... STD for rod is blue.. STD for cap is red... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1d3128s.jpg And, hard to see, but the valve stem seals, O-rings, and various other parts are in the kit... I have five exhaust manifold gaskets... Hmmm... Error or to cover other motors... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psi6wg2qrs.jpg I have a very long week ahead... I apologize for the lack of progress on this project for the up-coming weeks... I'm in job transition, so it'll be about 20 days straight between both jobs... Okay, until I have something new... Enjoy all!!! |
Good day all!!
This is what I got done yesterday... Too busy to post yesterday... So, I am missing the cap side rod bearing, but they are on the way... So, no piston install yet. I got the valves and ports in the head cleaned and pretty. The exhaust valves took forever!! The intake valves came out of the cleaner looking brand new... So, lets get to it!! Clean and ready to go! All exhaust valves in place... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psupjypwb4.jpg To install the new valve stem seals, I found a socket that would fit over the seal, but still clear the valve... Spark plug socket worked out here... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20fm9mef.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psi7ghz7gp.jpg Then this... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1wewtzoi.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf3gxx0x.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps21nc824y.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pst3uypihi.jpg Ta-da! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psgocdajqf.jpg They actually gave me eight of these to do the whole side at once... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuyp1abp4.jpg After all seals are in place, next comes the springs... Remember, the taller ones are exhaust... Which kinda doesn't make sense because the short springs go to the valves that have variable lift... Hmmm... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psklqeh1jo.jpg Then comes the lifters and rockers... These are from the same location they came from at tear down... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0rsnwkj1.jpg All done!! Don't forget to torque!! 14Nm... If you do the math, it comes out to 123.914 in/lbs... You'll see in the last picture that I put the cams in a position that they will put very little pressure on any valves! I will correct this, obviously before it gets timed... This way no valves will be damaged just cause they are below the plane of the head, even sitting on the cardboard... Torque in the correct pattern!! I put the oil squirter line in place just to keep track of it and prevent it from getting damaged!! That little bugger Murphy has gotten me a couple times already!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pskjrheppz.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvjfcvsxy.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvh5f5eiz.jpg Note the timing slots that DON'T look right... well... It'll be okay like this for now... I did use assembly lube and still coated everything with Mobil 1 gear oil... I'm also going to attempt...... attempt to prime the oil system before I turn the key... Still working on that... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvbebxqik.jpg That is it for now!! Tomorrow begins the long haul of non-stop work for 15 days... Such is life!! Cheers for now!! |
Good day all!!!
Well, I am batting a thousand with my replacement pistons... The connecting rods from the seller had caps that didn't match the rods... Well, what do ya know... I checked the three caps and the three rods, and low and behold I had one that matched up... So, we'll see what the seller says... The pistons have come out really nice... They almost look new again... More to come in small spurts until my next day off... Cheers all!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, it has been some time since I have had a chance to get stuff done to the X5... I got a nice Ohaus triple beam scale and weighed up all the rods and pistons... One of the new pistons was much heavier than the others and I was debating on using one of the less damaged original pistons... But, on the flip side, the lightest rod helped bring things back into acceptable... The thing I forgot to include on the table was the high to low deviation for the rods and pistons... Rod high to low was 4.2g... Piston high to low was 5.35g... I thought about shaving some weight off the piston, but I don't know the best spot to not compromise the piston integrity... So, my piston/rod high to low is going to stay at a 2.1g... The tolerance sheet I have says the rod deviation is +/- 4g... I think I am close enough... Now everything gets matched up and installed... I have already put the top valley pan on and the rear water cover on... No gaskets, just RTV allowed to dry with no coolant... We'll see if it holds better than the original gasket... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psscbdwbev.png That's it for now... Thoughts on any of this so far? Cheers!! |
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Good work on balancing the piston/rod combos. Nice work. I probably would have filed off some metal from the piston, screwing something else up. Sometimes the most simple solution is also the most elegant (what you did, not what I would have done!). :thumbup: |
It looks like there are balancing pads on the connecting rods right? Don't you just take some material off that with a belt sander to balance the rod/piston assembly?
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Good day all!
It has been some time again. I have not gotten a lot done due to parts and my new job. Four days a week at work has turned into six days a week. I'm still trying to figure that one out... So, I have all the piston and rods in. I finished the heads and even put the VANOS on the cams noting the Pass head has the vacuum slot... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrhcq66vi.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbxi9ssq9.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswvvmkkxn.jpg I also put the timing chains on so that I could hook up the oil pump and put the oil pans on. I took out the wheel stud in the bottom of the oil filter cap and put in the new plug I got... Mental note: if the new one gets buggered up, leave it alone!! It doesn't HAVE to come out to change the filter... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psnsxyu1sc.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3rtxjw3m.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psx3ll35kw.jpg Flywheel, real main seal, and all bolts torqued... Flywheel bolts got locktite... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psiiuqktsh.jpg Okay, now the fun stuff! I got the new guide rails for the timing chains... It escaped me to get the bits that go with the new rails... Pay attention to the stuff under the new items, especially if the original old part is "ENDED"!! So, I didn't get the new bolts for the rails... Here is the difference and the reason for the new bolt... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psoytgtyny.jpg New bolt is larger and longer... I don't have the new bolt yet... I'll explain why a little later... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxwrwv96j.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psmsd7itv2.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7mfqrl8x.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psljndovkj.jpg And the biggest improvement noticed with these... This is incredible!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbn2dztxj.jpg And the last one!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pscn83o2f3.jpg This is the issue!! I can't get more done until I get the new bolts!! I would put the cylinder heads on, but this motor needs the lower chain cover on first... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4nben5nf.jpg Well, I wouldn't say "NEEDS" the lower chain cover on, but things are much easier if it is... Okay, here is the issue with the bolts... I looked up the part number on realoem... Just like I always do... Find the correct diagram... Find the part needed... Look at the number next to that part... Scroll down until you hit that number and go across the line for the desired part number... Ahem.............. That didn't work out well this time!! It appears that not all options are designated with that number you scroll down to... Numbers 8 and 11 in my case... 8 and 11 are for the ORIGINAL bolts to be used with the "ENDED" guide rails... The new bolts that should have the 8 and 11 are listed under the new rails, but have dashes... So, I ordered two of what I already have!!!! This is the WRONG part number for the new rails!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbzoausmf.jpg Once I get all this done, I will be making a complete and triple verified list of parts for this... So, until I get the two bolts, I'm stuck here... Cheers for now!!! |
:thumbup:Awesome progress!
Please keep us updated! |
Looks great!
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Good day all!!
Well, I got the bolts the other day! And here's all I got done... Here is the difference between the bolts... And the correct part number... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshlwxdpft.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psn49impem.jpg These came in handy for this motor... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psdxbzw3xs.jpg The boring stuff!! Cover is on and all torqued... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxrop2wax.jpg I put sealant despite the pan gasket having it included... Do your own thing here... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psy5fdfz5i.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psx34er9wn.jpg I have both heads completely assembled so I had to take this off to get the bolt in and locked down... You also have to assemble the socket and extension through the Valvetronic... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pso85eraz8.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7xzjqbyq.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pscdedsv7q.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pskr9dp9qv.jpg Some of these have to be turned to get them all installed... I have all the cams so they aren't putting any real pressure on the valves... So, you need to rotate each cam, one at a time and lock it in at that time... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshahqgq6m.jpg I set it up, but didn't tighten down the cam bolts yet... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxde7lyht.jpg THIS IS MY METHOD!!! GO WITH WHAT YOU KNOW AND TRUST!! I put all this work in to get this right, so I'm going to make sure the valves are not going to hit prior to timing... I am able to rotate the motor over without the cams moving... I located and locked in one cam at a time... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswbxdeziw.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxkmxily3.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psmzt0vhug.jpg So, when you have everything set, the 5-8 cylinders should look like this when at TDC... TDC is always for cyl 1... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2kr1mer.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxdvwcm3h.jpg Cylinders 1-4... I didn't get a good picture like I did with 5-8... I will before I progress any further... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxiz7qtxj.jpg Tool locked in place for the crank... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psklyyjdrs.jpg When using the locking tools, make sure you hold it in place with the bolt... You need to remove the oil rail to use that bolt hole... The cam bolts get 60 ft/lbs... The tensioner tool didn't have any pressure value that I could find!! I just snugged it up... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshze3fumo.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psyn5uwrrr.jpg All done for now... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswgwis5pj.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psezvzrs0t.jpg Here is another bit I found that some may not be aware of... This bracket has the same locking supports as the crank caps... This is not in place yet... Other bolts are tightened up... I snugged these up as well... Think it calls for 20 ft/lbs... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvvkjya5d.jpg 8mm allen tightens it down... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psfp8i6bum.jpg Then the locking bolt that goes through it... You can get the cover bolt on with this in place... You can NOT get the guide bolt on with this in place... Ask me how I know... Ahem!!! After you get this far, it is recommended that you rotate it a couple times and reinstall the tools to verify timing is still correct... I didn't get that picture... Cheers for now all!!! Stay tuned for the install... And the first start-up!! Unless it fails, then I will mysteriously have won the lotto and move to the Caribbean!!! Cheers all!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, it has been a fun time these past few days!! Here is another picture of the cam positions at TDC... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5pnyyrix.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psshpkkvib.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psapeyrwyl.jpg Oh, don’t forget to clean this bracket!! It tells you a secret!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psejbwfw7l.jpg I got all the brackets on the front... And the VANOS solenoids installed... Make sure they go all the way to the block!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqqlvj2se.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psp17hdy7x.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psyzakfzgs.jpg Here are the brackets... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psyrq2m0uh.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqdpxjwhb.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psetamllli.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psessswtnt.jpg And I didn’t mess with these the entire time!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8hzpzwvk.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszr13syka.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxompbbm7.jpg For the valve covers... Get these!!!Mine are on the way...I would have them today, but I somehow missed ordering them this last go around...They should be here tomorrow... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps419vktql.jpg Okay, that brings me up to today (9 June 2016)...... For the past few days I have been thinking about the union between the inner metal tube and the timing chain cover...I didn’t get the new tube...I just couldn’t justify the 63 bucks for a gasket...So, I made the seal out of some O-rings...However, in my mind when I set the initial position, I pictured a thin “oil pan” type gasket...Not the 1.5mm think gasket...I didn’t put two and two together until after I had it all together...So, I pulled it apart today to make sure this was not going to be the “common” failure point in this motor...I was right to do so too...I found the O-ring barely touching the timing cover... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhgn129k.jpg However, I also discovered that the gasket sealer got pushed through the gap between the tube and the gap... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psnn106sms.jpg I pulled this cover to access the pipe... If you reuse your old cover with just sealer holding it in place, be ready for some slow going getting it off...I pried up on the tube opening until I noticed the whole plate flexing!!I thought I was going to break the casting right where it dips down into the block...BUT, I am sure it won’t leak when I put it back!! So, I couldn’t get the tube free at the end... But, with no cover, I could wrap my hands around it here and spin it...I pulled the tube all the way out and started over... I initially had two O-rings that were the same size... They fit between the pipe and the block...I used one of those and the old O-ring from the other end of the pipe...It was just about 4mm thick and gave me the perfect amount of room between the block and cover... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psctj8qysp.jpg With the cover off, my fingers kept hitting this gasket sealer... Grrrr!!The O-ring is just barely touching the cover here...And it has room to get pushed into the space where the second O-ring use to be... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7zcstcrr.jpg And the inside of the pipe... I feel confident this will provide way more seal than should be required...And dare I say, WAY better than the original method, even if it isn’t as pretty... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvmta9iw.jpg Ahhhhh, now the part that bothered me the whole time about this “rework”!! Pulling the cover off without touching the heads or timing...Oddly, it wasn’t that hard pulling it apart...Drop the bottom and top oil pan...I just loosened the top pan... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4g4wskwa.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pspckipgqg.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pstkzld0xa.jpg Slowly work the cover off evenly!! Getting it back on is a bit more...... Annoying...Ya gotta make sure you get the thin layers of the gaskets in place before you get crazy about pushing the cover back in place...It is a tight fit under the head gaskets!!And the front of the oil pan gasket will catch on the cover when it is almost in place... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvmoj5pbb.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshneypwqu.jpg New pipe!! Get it...It’s only about $20... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psgtgxour6.jpg FYI... They put the pin and the crank key lined up with this rib on the cover when you are at TDC... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cwcraaw.jpg That is about it for now... Almost time to get installed...I’m going a little slow now so I don’t rush to install it and forget something in the process...Think I may put the covers on now so I don’t have to deal with them later... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszuwwnvkf.jpg Cheers for now all!! |
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Did you change the internal seal of that vacuum pump? It tends to leak.
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I have not yet... I actually didn't know there was another gasket in there... Good to know!! I might go do that right now... I'm curious!! Thanks for tuning in and sharing the info!! Cheers!! |
BMW doesn't sell it but you can find it here:
BMW News, Parts, and Repair Tech Tips by BMP Design: Tech Tip: BMW Brake Booster Vacuum Pump Seal Kit Removal & Installation (V8 N62 Engines) |
This is pure mechanical porn:popcorn::popcorn:
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tecboy99, you got that right. WilliamX5 is one first-rate car-porn purveyor. With apologies to Chief Deputy Marshal Art on "Justified," these pix will generate lots of 'car guy stiffies' :)
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Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, another chapter in this quest... I test fitted the alternator while it was on the engine stand. The oil cooler assembly gets in the way, but it goes on rather easily when it is in the vehicle...Additionally, I installed and tightened it in place three times before I was done with it...It is easier to install the power wire and connector prior to putting it in place...So, every time you remove this, you need to tap the bottom bolt with a hammer to push the locking lug out... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psphqmqoq9.jpg This is how it should look to install it... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psfh2vex0e.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuinteibx.jpg And all tightened up (notice the bolt in the gap)... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pslcutwrzz.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjttztiqo.jpg Got the new crankcase vent kits... The new cover doesn’t look the same because there is no hose that goes on the end fitting, so BMW got rid of it... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc4v8try.jpg So, this might be interesting... I pulled the cover to the coil harness housing so I knew exactly where it would sit when installed...I did all that to figure out where the ground wire caps for the valve cover went... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psb7di0aea.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psfnjsbg5h.jpg I figured out that the tall ones go along the top and short ones go on the bottom... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshtbemnlu.jpg The two ground caps go in the center at the top... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6pmjcawl.jpg All back together so wires don’t get buggered up... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswxt0gald.jpg I bent this pulling the motor... I pulled the motor without valve covers...I had to find an alternate spot to lift the motor due to the covers being included with the installation... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrcyy23p6.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ev3nfmw.jpg The plug tubes were a pain to get on... The outside bolts go on rather easily...But the eight cam cap nuts were crazy to get installed...I can’t imagine doing them with the motor installed...I tightened slightly, tapped, tightened, tapped...and did that for all 16...Rubber dead blow hammer!!Do not hit your plastic valve cover with a ball peen hammer!!Things might not work out that well for ya!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psn2z3jjat.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psivtemed5.jpg With the valve cover installed, even the rubber grommet won’t come out... It gets locked on the top of the cam cap nut... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pspcnbipap.jpg I tried to get this centered during the valve cover install process... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pstnz6wsft.jpg I knew this was the correct way only because of the marks the old one made on the cover... I also don’t see it working out that well flipped over... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psojebqflq.jpg This gets a new O-ring too... It’s in the kit... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxsarzl7s.jpg New, also in the kit... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psckebykc3.jpg Added for the installation... I pulled the motor with this still connected...I think it was easier... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pspn7d4kor.jpg If you don’t have a 14mm allen for this, find one of these... I got this some many years back when I swapped my 2.82 rear diff for the 3.15 in my E39...I tap this in place and if it gets stuck, I thread the all thread rod in and pull it out... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psinzx2lds.jpg Push it up tight and loosen... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbntwsmqu.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96xjsia4.jpg All dressed up and ready for install!! Isn’t that just a sight?! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psdu9a5pjb.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5kkntldf.jpg I have this chain with angled rectangular plates on the ends that happen to fit perfectly at the knock sensor locations and supported the motor evenly with much delight! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psabetgh70.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0m6ol3ur.jpg Lifted the engine stand too... I felt good about it holding the whole time!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pslm8ldwxa.jpg And look how level it is here!! I was amazed how well balanced it turned out this way!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psmouf04ak.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psng0ljfcx.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3r2pvxwh.jpg Going in was slow!! I didn’t want to rush through this part and mess up something vital!!My better half assisted me with this process!!Thanks babe!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psfrrq0fat.jpg Okay, having done it this way, I will say I think it might be easier to install this side first... BUT, leave the passenger side off...There is enough room on the pass side to have a small football game...But getting the nuts on the driver side with the motor installed was frustrating and time consuming!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxcdlcq3t.jpg You must put the pass side manifold on before you install the compressor and you will need to move the dipstick tube to the side slightly for one nut... I did NOT break the A/C system... (spoiler - I’m writing this after I started the motor...It started fine)...The A/C works great!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pssg4koyep.jpg I thought it would be a good idea to remove the brake booster vac pump... Too close, but it probably would have cleared... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrlzicxhw.jpg It was a pain to get it around this!! The compressor goes under the motor mount bracket, but the tube here goes over it...Yep!A huge PITA!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psukxadtep.jpg Lots of room... For now... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pskftqopej.jpg This is touching, but barely!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszzqadbdq.jpg All the obvious stuff on top, but don’t forget the trans cooler lines and the oil pan... They run by the oil pan, but things can get moved around and such...Not to mention the motor isn’t going to go straight down... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswinh2929.jpg It’s close, but there is enough room on this side... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psifqt0juj.jpg This is touching the fuel line... Close over here!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pspus8mvhb.jpg This is finally over and in place... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psbsbtj748.jpg And it’s in there!! YAY!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszovpbxco.jpg That’s it for now... Stay tuned for the next chapter... Cheers for now!!! |
Man I wanna be you when I grow up! That's just awsomeness delux!
Are you leaving the oil valve parts out (the ones you helped me find the location of)? BMW X5 4.8iS 2005 |
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I actually didn't have all the parts to put them back... So, there wasn't really anything to put back... I hope they aren't necessary!! Mainly cause I don't have them... Thanks for tuning in!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I figured it was time to finish this up for those that are interested... This last part is just going over all the little things I found while getting it all back together... Like the DS cam sensors... One had to be different but fits in both locations... The starter solenoid looks like the crank sensor connector... Wires are about the same length too... Starting where the pictures start..... These two tensioners are almost mirror images of each other... If you are confused as to which location they go, just look at the wear on the pulley... The narrow belt goes with the A/C and the other below the PS pump... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjfnimkff.jpg Don't put the Alt in until the PS pump is in and this bracket that uses the PS pump bolts... The oil cooler lines mount to the other end of this bracket buried under the Alt... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psv2o0sahn.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61lprxcg.jpg Then these go on... Wide belt is by the Alt... Narrow belt is for A/C... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmccdvoj.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuryflnaa.jpg Okay, I may have mentioned this already, but don't actually install the Alt until the wires are connected up... I tried to get them connected after it was installed... I just don't think it is possible... But this works... Rather well with no cooling hoses and such in the way... Haven't tired it with everything else installed... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psehg6etxk.jpg New belts in place... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psi6fgtogb.jpg DS cam sensors... Oh, I don't know... after-thought maybe... realoem doesn't have the different one in their picture... I have not heard or read about an extension wire to use the other type of sensor... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psddpegygf.jpg Here is how they go in... (I got the SES for DS exhaust cam over-advanced upon initial start-up... Figured I had these backwards... They weren't, but the SES fault for the cam went away... Maybe air pocket in the vanos or something)... Intake cam is the wire version... That connects up to the wire box... that connector is the one on the far left of the pic... with the bend in the boot... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psy4wtr5rz.jpg I'm not positive if the oil dipstick tube uses this bracket, but it seems more logical than the wiring loom under it... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqgblwobf.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrvsmur9e.jpg Coil grounding wires... Coils are not in yet... I want to prime the oil pump with no compression... No plugs are in yet either... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psynoc67ec.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pstbxyf6b1.jpg Don't forget to hook this up behind the intake... If it just falls down behind the intake, it can get easily overlooked... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjzzv4xmt.jpg This is how the drive shaft comes apart... This came out like this after I pulled the motor... I had a super hard time moving the drive shaft back into the transfer case... I really should have taken a picture prior to cleaning and greasing the splines... I wasn't done when I took the picture... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psaa82ak4v.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psudkspmkp.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psyxl4h226.jpg Cooling hoses... These were pretty much a puzzle... Not to difficult to figure out... They identify where they go by just fitting them at the possible locations... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3s3icprg.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psdvgovbjp.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pscid8z6wy.jpg Green marks help!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pskbj5mazb.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvm0yv44w.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszlrmcfeh.jpg Okay, minor setback was this HUGE O-ring in the radiator side of the bottom hose... Figured previous tech lost the original and used what they had... I'm not sure how it worked up to this point, but it makes sense as to why I could not get the hose off!! I almost cut the hose and dealt with it after the radiator was out... I got the correct O-ring!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqdsjyfso.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszuymp3ms.jpg Here is where I primed the oil pump... Just a couple pics of the chain moving and getting clean oil on it... Stationary... My better half is helping me with the starter... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psdtjwewrx.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psv6xiq25q.jpg Okay all!! This is the part I am reluctant to reveal, but.... So, I got it primed and now I'm ready to start it... Plugs are in... Coils are in... everything is connected... Coolant is in... No leaks... All the drive line components are back in... All I have to do is replace the fuel pump fuse and turn the key... So, I did that... I replaced the fuse and turned the key a few times to prime the fuel system that had been disconnected... Turned the key and nothing... WHAT?! Oh crap!! So, I didn't have fuel... Checked the fuse, and low and behold it was popped... Not sure why there were blown fuses in the ashtray... Found one other that was popped... Put a good one in and still nothing... Double crap... Pulled the back seat to check voltage at the pump, knowing the fuse is now good... This is what I found under the back seat... The positive part here is there was enough money in this to pay for the power to run the shop vac... LOL!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3b5aspsc.jpg After... My better half and I spent the good part of two hours cleaning this... Got the garden hose out and everything!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pssjwxua9u.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psmmwjpdgs.jpg Okay, I finally traced my steps and found that I somehow put the fuel pump fuse in an "unused" location... Once in the correct position, she fired right up... No clank, tick, ping, or ding!! Topped off the cooling and let it idle for a while... checked the SES codes and the cam timing and trans fail safe came up... cam timing went away and I'm dealing with the trans now... Oh, I changed the front diff oil since I had spilled some after pulling it... I ran the initial oil for a couple hours run time... Then changed it and the filter with Mobil 1... That's it so far... Dealing with the trans issue now... I wonder if I should include that segment in here as well... I put it in a different thread... Thanks for tuning in!!! Cheers all!!! |
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Congratulations:yourock: Someone in Georgia give this guru a six-pack!
Please continue with the same thread so that the entire project stays as one... and the title of this thread befits spinoffs anyway. So don't change the adventure movie theater:D I always look forward to your updates. :thumbup: |
Good day all!!
As per a request to include all aspects of the project in here, I'm including the transmission thread to this one... I was getting the Trans failsafe message and I couldn't go far from the house without it taking hold. Limping back home in third gear is not all that much fun... So, I decided to tear into the issue a little... The shifter doo-hicky thing that tells the Trans computer what gear it's in, is not like all the others before it... I searched for the part and now know why it isn't avail... It is literally apart of the valve body inside the trans... This one is hall effect with a magnet slider (so it seems)... So, here is the story... Here she is!! In all her high stance due to me filling the suspension manually by jumpering the air control coils and manually operating the air pump... BUT, it's not sitting on the bump stops!!! And, to my surprise, all the air bags are holding!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2grozqxl.jpg Here is the color of the trans fluid at 164160 exact miles... I know that because I just changed the first oil fill after initial start... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psolbcgh4f.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psub685cur.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxggouxfa.jpg There is ALWAYS one that doesn't cooperate!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psussxeypk.jpg Dirty pan... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psybacwsuw.jpg Original filter... I know that cause it has a date on it... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ko857ru.jpg Don't let this seal stay in the trans... It does sometimes... Mine almost did... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0zrlzfly.jpg And the fun stuff!! With the fluid looking this bad, I wanted to clean out the valve body... I'm one of those that feel the risk is worth it have clean oil in there... But, I clean out the crap that will otherwise ruin the trans if left alone... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszu55gvrt.jpg Gotta pull that little leaver down to release the electrical connector extension housing... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5xio4hjt.jpg There are ten Torx 40's (seven long and three short) to drop the valve body... The other torx bolts are 27's... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psmkfkjpri.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1t31ifxw.jpg These are the main long seven... The other three are in the black plastic electrical housing... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psazrpuvut.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psngtjbutb.jpg Think this is the reason I would loose my gear when it heated up... This was all over my selector slider piece... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3tzynem4.jpg All clean... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psesktvm50.jpg Oh, that thingy you pull down to release the connector extension won't go back up unless the extension piece is in place first... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4hugspsl.jpg You take these out and the electrical part comes off the valve body... you can't take it apart... I kinda tried, but it wasn't worth the risk of breaking it... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pspwfk0hm1.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psoqhlqtdf.jpg Pull these out (27's also) to get the solenoids out... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvqidyqp.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0mmveiws.jpg The middle yellow one doesn't have any removable valves behind it... Yep, I pulled all them out too... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psboitivgh.jpg Initial separation was very dirty!! Poor lighting... My apologies!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvbsibqhj.jpg So, here are the check valves for this one... and the two spring plungers... There are other plugs along the side that I didn't circle... I have a pic of them too... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psnolo9bhh.jpg Here are the valves for the shorter half (top half as it sits in the trans)... Three on one side... Two on the other... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psl1czl6tt.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvihzbynp.jpg Skip that third spot... Nothing there... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psclgzcvku.jpg exploded view... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0i5tmucr.jpg This is the other side... The last one gave me problems... (There is ALWAYS one!!!) http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjrryurum.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps21inhx7a.jpg ONLY ODD ONE!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psoujajvfx.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psog4byaoe.jpg All back together... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps81mnvlcm.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvab4paqf.jpg Not in yet... Ran out of time... Gotta work tomorrow... I need to get the fluid, gasket, and filter... Was looking up the specs on the correct fluid, but I can't get a good straight answer from the posts I was reading... AFT2? Dex VI? Semi syn? Full syn?? Well that is it for now... I really hope this fixes my fail safe program!! If not, I will be stuck buying a valve body... Or dig into the electrical plastics... Cheers!! |
UPDATE::::
Okay, here it is...
Well, before I got the fluid and parts, I decided to pull this huge plug in the pan... And I took some measurements... I'm thinking to myself, "WHY?"... Well, the top of the rim for the plug is about 9mm above the top of the gasket surface... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjfbk2wwz.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuqqhx63m.jpg And the top of the threads for the fill hole are about 13.7mm from the gasket surface... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psyjouj6an.jpg So, I figure it is for the initial fill cold... Then the fill plug is pulled when it's at temp to drain off the excess... Of course, I didn't try this when I put everything back together... UGH!! Here's the 12 liters of fluid!! Liquid gold!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pszqmrbezv.jpg Here is the seal I got... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxd11wazb.jpg All new stuff... I figured I was getting just the filter with the part number I pulled... I got the big plug, the little plug, and the filter... Good to know if you need a drain plug!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psroxkugyu.jpg Here are the part numbers... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psnwiwwbhp.jpg Don't forget to line this up or you could end up starting the truck in drive... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psqoaqusab.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1snxjacj.jpg In place... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pstngaqcw7.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psao2fhjcz.jpg This is all the way in... It is difficult due to it's location, but it will be good when the locking tab goes up... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pslnsl19b1.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuasbwhj1.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psq7qmjdsh.jpg This is the fill system I made... Just a 3/8 air fitting with a length of 3/8 fuel line... I put the fuel line OVER the exhaust as the bend was a bit too much... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psfnzjahp4.jpg This is initial fill... Running, but not up to temp... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshncxmfxf.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pswemerpld.jpg This is getting up to temp... Not too happy with the fluid color... But!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psxzu9fvqu.jpg Ahhhhhh... I used the four new 40 Torx bolts to start the pan... They are easy to over tighten, so be careful!! That's it... For now... Now on to why my trans if getting the fail safe... Cheers for now!! |
Wow, amazing and congrats yet again :thumbup: What a voyage! You've given that X5 a new lease of life and it's just as good as new! I crown you the X5 guru:D Now, do you think the trans issue was a result of lack of oil change and thus excessive dirt? BMW recommends trans oil and filter change every 100k miles, I think.
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So, to recap... Last night I put about 8.5 liters of new LG6 in the trans... Got it up to temp running up and down the road in my area... Nice and warm with no issues... Excited about taking it to work today... On the way in at 0545 hrs this morning, I got about half way to work (on the interstate) and got the trans fail safe again... It must have stayed in 5th gear for the rest of the trip to work... Which was a question I had about the fail safe program... Would it drop to 3rd regardless OR use the trans speed to figure out the best gear to use at the time of failure... It was the latter... So, on the way home at 1430, failsafe hit almost before I got out of the parking lot... It didn't leave third gear the whole way home... It did take a while on the back roads... So, now I have to reevaluate things... Where to start?! The other bad news is that I have the exhaust cam over advance issue again... Time to hook up the computer... Cheers for now!! |
Good day all!!
I found out that I have a trans gear selection wire that is not changing states once warm... Once I get to Drive, it faults the computer out... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvnwlbbso.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psuix2nckt.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pshdvtpc06.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6apjhwrc.jpg Okay, I looked them up... The problem is that L1 is always "ON" and I know "D" should only have L4 "ON"... This first one should be PARK... I pull actual readings from the x5 when it was working... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psvffrha9c.jpg This second one is Reverse... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pskunxc9gx.jpg And this one is Neutral... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2loilxsl.jpg This one is Drive in a faulted state... Only L4 should be ON... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psoitkrnoc.jpg So, I guess I get to pull the pan again and take some readings... May have a chaffed wire... This is gonna be that fun gremlin to find... Will keep yous posted... Since I will be needing the wiring diagram to figure this part out, I figure I will add this info I got from WPOLL on a different thread... THANKS WPOLL!!! Quote:
Cheers for now!! |
Happy 4th everyone!!!
I sat in the X5 until it faulted out... I watched the temp and wire activations... I did find out that it faults out quicker if I select out of Drive then back in Drive... It only faulted twice while staying in Drive... The temp hovered around 103 C... It did not fault out... Even moving from D to N then back to D... I turned on the A/C... Temp climbed up to about 107 C... Moved from D to N and back to D... Wire L1 stayed in the "ON" state... It did not clear up until the temp dropped down to about 93 C... I checked the pins on the connector... All were locked in the correct position... I remember reading something about the connector pins getting pushed back into the connector... Not the case here... So, this isn't fun anymore... I really want to get the black circuit board connection unit that has the gear selection module integrated into it, but I can't just get that part... I have to get the whole valve body... Or tear apart mine and hope I don't destroy it beyond use... Off to see fireworks!! Everyone have a safe holiday!!! Cheers for now!! |
Keep the faith! You'll figure it out.
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Good day all!!
I finally got a day off to look into the control module that connects to the valve body in our transmissions... I was interested to find out there is actually a computer chip in that black housing by Bosch... ***Additionally interesting to find out that the one in my 04 X5 has a 03-09-15 date on it (Found out this is YY-MM-DD not the American MM-DD-YY)... I googled the part number on the computer box (1267017164) and there is a company in Bulgaria that fixes them... I didn't see a cost involved with this repair... I can imagine it would be more than the replacement trans I'm considering... This is the deal with these! They are not meant to be pulled apart... ZF or Bosch did a good job making it very difficult to disassemble... First things first... This seal did come off of the filter and stayed in the trans... Keep this in mind! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrrbmptee.jpg The new one was very difficult to get out... I pulled it just enough to get the valve body out... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psrubkuhk9.jpg Interesting!!! http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psaccz1vm3.jpg Computer part number you can look up... There is also a video you can watch if you google the part number... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psndpqfne5.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pst74rhcpw.jpg I would have been able to get the circuit run completely free from the plastic holder if it wasn't for this speed sensor of some sort... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psjkx1iul7.jpg This goes under the computer chip housing... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...pss1dgbsnp.jpg And the reason it was so difficult to get apart... There were two of these for each solenoid... This side was a bit easier than the other... In most cases there is a tab that moves and unlocks the connection... Not so here... You have to move the housing away from the tab... I don't recommend yous pull this apart... Nothing in there to solder back together or replace to fix the issues this thing causes... Unfortunately, as of this moment, I do not know how to get a replacement part without sending out the original to "be repaired" by someone... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50h6re5i.jpg I cleaned this really well and I'm gonna see what happens when I reinstall it... If I get the same trans range sensor error, I'm going to get another valve body if it has this included.... Cheers for now all!!! |
Okay, I will lose cool points for what I am about to say as many of you won't believe me... I honestly am questioning how this happened!!
Somehow, in the past day, someone or something has decided to walk off with 13 of my pan bolts, including two of the four new ones I just got... I have eight (six old and two new)... The rest are gone!! I left all of them under the truck in a pile... Honestly, has this happened to anyone else?! Cheers all!!! |
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On to the trans filling!! Cheers all!!! |
Regarding the exhaust cam over advance issue, you may want to have a look at these posts, essentially a DME Ram Backup via toolset32 (Select d_motor.grp which will bring up the correct .prg file for your DME - scroll down the list of jobs - double click "RAM_backup"):
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...isfires-2.html http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ankshaft/page3 |
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Thanks again!! Quote:
Now back to the research which I might inquire about on here... Cheers!!! |
Good day all!!
I am having an issue with the TCM that is connected to the valve body... I know there has been some debate as to what it is called... AGS/EGS... TCU... Anyway... I'm obviously talking about the Trans Control Module inside the trans, connected to the valve body... I am getting the range selection error fault that has plagued these TCM's for some time... So much so that there is a company in Bulgaria that fixes them for 300 to 400 Euro... HOWEVER, these modules are apart of a Bosch part that sit in nearly all six speed ZF transmissions from 02 and up Ford, Jag, VW, Audi and such... Of course the valve body's are going to be different... But, these should be the similar if they control like solenoids and such... I'm willing to do the experiment if I can figure out how to flash or reprogram the chip using whatever BMW software... I do have an issue with communicating with the X5... INPA will only see the motor and trans modules... And the info from them is sketchy... This is the only thing I got back from my read of the car... http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3rn5j0g.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psslhnix2t.jpg All other modules had no communication... Frustrating cause my air ride is still inact... Sooooo..... Still lots to work out here... Of course, any help from the amazing experts on here is always appreciated!!! Cheers all!!! |
Well, tearing into the TCM didn't do anything but make it worse... Now it faults out at Neutral instead of Drive... I'm on the hunt for a TCM...
Cheers all!! |
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Yes, I did see those TCM's, but the one I need is the one in the bottom of the trans connected to the valve body... BMW doesn't actually list a part number for it because it is apart of the valve body... So, I have to get a complete valve body or get lucky enough to have someone pull it off the VB and sell it separate... I'm wondering if the control board assembly thing is configurable regardless of the make and model it originally came from... There are a lot of 6hp26's from ZF out there... Thanks!! Cheers!! |
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Mechatronic: Genuine ZF Parts However, I'd consider giving these guys a call on Monday and asking about the interchangeability of the piece part you are referring to. |
Good day all!!
Well, it has indeed been some time!! I figured out my computer connection with the X... I also got rid of the Air Suspension for the total cost of $304.23 for all the parts needed... Both front Sport spring/strut assemblies I pulled from the pull it yard... Like 25.88 each!! I got the rear springs from ebay... $100 even... I had to get the spring perches (top and bottom) new... Good idea to do that... I'll get all the pictures uploaded soon... Getting ready for Halloween... So, I still had the message... And it always alerts you it is faulted... ALWAYS!!! Well, I just got the coding to work and found it accidentally!! I guess the message display is controlled by the LCM... It was about nine from the top... LUFTFEDERUNG - AIR SUSPENSION! I changed the display to not active... warning message is gone... Took all of 48 seconds... I was in the LCM module looking to deactivate the daytime running lights... Just to test the programming... Okay, so now I have to get help reloading WinKFP to "program" my trans module... I can't find it as an option in NCS... Other than this one issue, I'm ready to start using the X and get rid of the Durango!! This coding stuff is really a lot of fun... More to come!! Cheers all!!! |
Good day all!
Photo bucket was down the last time I wanted to update pictures, so those are still not avail... I took pictures of the whole suspension swap to coils and was going to post that for those interested... However, I'm now debating on if I should keep the coils... I somehow triggered the air ride to work... I had everything operating manually in INPA the last time I had it hooked up... now my lights are on and the buttons respond... So, thoughts on keeping the coils in or put the air bags back to have that flexibility the air ride offers.... I'll post pictures as soon as I can! Cheers all! |
It all depends on what was wrong with the original system to start with? If the bags, sensors and compressor are good then I would keep it on air suspension. Did you reset the system for testing before you converted up coils?
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk |
While in you're in that engine, replace the valve stem seals, it would suck if you got running good only to find out you have clouds of smoke coming out the exhaust. As for the air suspension, if only you had a good diagnostic tool like a snap on or autel maxisys but those are pricey. First thing I always do is hook it up to the scanner check the codes and then force the compressor to run to see if it works. If it doesn't it's burned and you need a new compressor, if it does then you know the compressor works and you have some other issue. Could be lucky and just do a reset of the system or it could possibly be the module. If it does run check for leaks in the hoses, bags, and the aluminum air storage container. Fortunately the rear bags are cheap, aftermarket from eBay starting at around 55 bucks or so. I would go with arnott rather than genuine Bmw. The front ones are more pricey. Anyways good luck with that and let us know with any questions, I've fixed a lot of X5 air suspensions both 2 axle and single axle. They are by far ALOT easier than benz suspension.
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I needed to move the X around outside since my garage is occupied with a larger project (that is now getting tossed due to the weather)... SOOOO, I did the swap prior to getting the coding working... Now that the coding is going, I triggered something in the Air Ride module using INPA when I was trying to get the EGS into SPORT mode so it would talk to the TCM... I think I'll swap back... And with new front bags too... Maybe all four if the rear aren't too expensive... The front need to be new regardless... Quote:
I got INPA, NCS Expert, and WinKFS to work in attempts to get my EGS trans module programmed (still working on that)... I got all this Air Ride working AFTER I did the coil swap.... I must have reset the Air Ride while I talking to the other modules in the vehicle... I have heard great things about Arnott... I did plan on going that route and will probably do all four corners... Well, that is two in favor of swapping back... Three, if you count me too... So, I think I will swap back, but keep the parts on hand in event I need to keep it on the road in a hurry... Thanks all!!! Gotta update my photobucket!! Out of room for more pictures... Cheers for now!! |
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Cheers!!! |
William, when you say you accidently reset the air suspension...did the compressor kick in or was it disconnected at this point? I wouldn't spend money on new bags (especially the front ones) before testing the whole system as it is first. This is the reason why so many of us have converted to coils...we made the "calculation" :)
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk |
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I did indeed... went into manual mode in INPA and operated all the valves and kicked the compressor on... I watched all the pressures rise and fall... I'll probably put the original system back in to verify all is well before investing in the bag replacement... maybe work the system a little while between the different modes, just to make sure it's responding correctly... I wish I had tomorrow off just to see if it will work... I also have to get my EGS module in the right mode so I can actually drive the X! That is the main issue I have now! Photobucket is back up to date, so pictures will be posted probably tomorrow morning... Cheers all! |
Great work!!! Great pics.
When you remove th engine, you had the headers on, then install it without. Curious why? Was it easier that way? When you put it back, did you lower in almost into position, put on the headers, fit the headers bolts to the exhaust pipe holes ?then lower it the rest of the way? Thanks |
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So, good question and I hope this helped... Thanks for viewing!!! Cheers!!! |
Good day all!
So, I'm having trouble getting my used EGS coded or programed with my VIN and configure for SPORT mode... I figured I would post some inquires on here due to the other guys not providing much info.... alas, there is no 'Coding' section... think we could add one? A lot of us are getting good at this stuff and it's becoming easier for us DIY'rs to handle this at home vice hauling the vehicle to the stealership! Thoughts? Cheers all! |
Updated E53 EGS w/SP-Daten 53.3 - now transmission in fail safe mode - BMW forum. Diagnostics, coding, programming, repair BMW vehicles.
It looks like this guy might've had the same issue as you. I know little to nothing about programming but we should start a coding section on here, nearly everything in these cars can be programmed. Anyways maybe shoot that guy a ok if he's still active might be of some assistance. |
When I took my 05 4.4 to the friend at the dealership for EGS update, I was told that on 04-06 cars with N62 / ZF6HP-26 cars, you can’t update EGS separately from DME. Therefore, after the update, I got both DME and EGS on the latest version. Took about 35 minutes for update program to complete.
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I replied to this early this morning, but it didn't get posted for some reason. No worries tho! So, when I got this info, I was completely excited that I would get to drive the X to work tonight (I'm on night shift)... I hooked up the laptop to the X and started everything up. Hooked up the 540i to the X and let the 540i idle... it worked last time when I updated the trans computer (VGSG83), so it should prove sufficient this time too... I pulled up the data in INPA and everything looked good... I opened WinKFP and had to search for the correct module... It doesn't say DME, but instead it was 19EK9284 or something like that... I pulled up the READ UIF and it had the matching info INPA had... HOWEVER, I couldn't find my assembly number in the list and had forgotten how to update to the new one letting the software do the picking... it got late, so I had to pack up in favor of getting some sleep for work! I'm going to start over tomorrow again, but this time I have the procedure... I really hope this works! Really really! Thanks so much for this valuable info! I do have to ask, are you positive your buddy said the engine processor needed to be updated to filter down to the transmission EGS? I was told to do the trans processor, which I did, but obviously didn't work! Anyway, I'll let you all know how it goes tomorrow! Cheers! |
I am 100% positive that DME and EGS had to be updated together on e53 with n62 engines. The computer system that dealer used at that time didn't allowed for the separate EGS update. I can't say with the same certainty that WinKFP works the same way, but I was there when he set this job up and BMW service computer only allowed for the combine DME/EGS update. I have no experience updating n62 with WinKFP. I used it successfully on 540i with m62tu engine.
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Hey axgordon, I noticed in your signature you had the servotronic retrofitted. I looked all over online there were no guides or anything. Would you happen to have any insight on it? Mine is an 06 4.4 non servo sport model.
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I read one of your posts and it seems pretty simple. So basically all we would is a servotronic steering rack and the servotronic motor? And the after do the coding procedure to add that option to the car? If you could shed some light on this it would be great as I really wanna do this.
So here's the parts list I came up with : For vehicles with HYDRO STEERING-SERVOTRONIC S216A=Yes 01 Rmfd hydro steering gear Servotronic ZF 1 10/2003 32136769268 $2020.75 And motor For vehicles with HYDRO STEERING-SERVOTRONIC S216A=Yes 07 Torque converter servotronic ZF 1 32106788212 So if you could just confirm that that's all we would need that would be great. And oh also you said that it might be prewired, there's a connector by the left strut tower or something I believe? And finally for the coding part what did you use, I have BMW scanner 1.4.0 but I'm unsure wether it could do the job or not. Thanks in advance. |
YazX5
To answer your questions: 1. I can’t guarantee, but every e53 that I look at comes pre-wired for “Servotronic” .The plug is wire tied to the left strut tower. 2. I coded GM3 module with NcsExpert. Enable option 216A. I am not sure how to do it with your scanner, but I think it is possible. Use same technique as with most other modules. 3. Please note that I did not modify vehicle order file – it means that if car is coded with the data associated with your VIN – You will have to code Servotronic again. So, if you are planning to code other modules on your car with tool such as “Progman” - remember to recode GM3 to re-enable Servotronic. Alternatively, do it right the first time and update vehicle order information. In my case, I did not bother. If you do not plan to code the entire car with the “Progman” tool, than it is no issue. 4. I used “A1 Cardone” rebuilt racks and ZF servotronic converter valves on both cars. Looks like FCPeuro offers ZF rebuilt rack with converter attached – just verify with them to be sure. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x5-32136769268 5. If you choose, aftermarket rebuilds option – those come without converter. You can get it here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-32106767408 6. The Cardone rack which I use on both cars - Part Number: 26-2818. No issues for over 60k miles, but I think ZF is the better route, especially if it comes with valve pre-installed. |
Good day all!
This servotronic stuff is interesting! Maybe that will be next in my list... Well, I'm currently at 70% of the programming... Started at 17:21 (5:21pm) and it's now 17:58 at 74%... I'm being particular to not let my computer do anything except program... I'm even moving the mouse every minute or so, just so it doesn't plan to start my screen saver... Overboard maybe, but this project needs a positive outcome soon! Like one that means I can use the X! Okay, I'll keep yous posted on the outcome! Cheers for now! (81%.......) |
Well, Murphy is alive and well! I know how important it is to get the VIN correct! I always verify it's right! I don't know how I manged to miss it this time, but I fat fingered one number! AND I don't have fat fingers at all! So, I get to do it all over again to keep my X from being a huge paper weight! Another hour to wait...
UGH! WHOOSA! Cheers! |
Well, everything still works and I lost one slot in my programming limit due to the VIN error... I still have nine left, so I guess it is okay... Both programs took (the error and then corrected one)...
HOWEVER, the EGS did not get updated and I am still in NON-SPORT mode for the transmission, getting the failsafe right away... So, my next idea is to plug the mechatronic into the vehicle and copy all the settings from it... Then code the new one with those settings... IF that doesn't work, I'm getting the ICOM set-up and go from there... Sooooo, that is where I'm at thus far... I'll let yous know!!! Cheers!!! |
Wow thumbs up man with all that computer coding stuff. I wish I had some insight on it but I'm clueless. I do however have a friend that's a master Bmw mechanic that may or may not have experience with this coding stuff. So tell me a little about what happened previously so I can tell him and hopefully he can give us a diagnosis. Cheers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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It all started when I was looking for an update to my Durango... Intro to my new 2004 X5 4.4L with lots of options... Oh, maybe not that far back in history... Apologies... Well, after I rebuild the motor and had it running in the X, I decided to take it for an initial test drive... As soon as all the fluids got up to normal temp, the trans faulted out and would not indicate what position the shifter was in... I did the research and it pointed to the EGS module on the Mechatronics (valvebody)... I figured out it faulted out at around 112 dec C using INPA... Figured it was the lifetime fluid hitting the END of it's lifetime... I changed the fluid, filter, and the recommended seals... It did not fix it... So, I bought a 2006 trans... Since it was cheaper to get the whole thing in favor of buying just the mechatronics... Just as my luck would have it, the 2006 was NOT a "Sport" model... So, now the trans faults out upon initial start up... There isn't a line in NCS Expert that I can toggle to "Sport" mode... All the entries in the module are "wertz 18" or some odd number with a meaning only the guy in the basement of the BMW R&D lab knows... So, in short, if I can turn on "Sport" mode in the Mechatronics, the VIN being different really doesn't matter to me... If I can program or code the EGS to work with my VIN, I'll go with that too!!! I'm close to installing the original Mechatronics and put some extreme trans fluid cooler on it... Just to see if that would keep the original from faulting out... This is the long version of the short story... Thanks so very much for your time!! Cheers!!! |
I'm always surprisingly puzzled at how little (or not at all) the BMW techs at the dealerships I've dealt with know about the software tools we (DIY community) know about and use - INPA, NCSExpert etc. They seem to only know ISTA, DIS - the regular official dealer software. But all that factory level software we're using....nada. Or may be they just pretend not to know about them because these are all "illegal" software not meant for the public....:dunno:
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Most probably don't care. They aren't enthusiasts, being a mechanic is their job and they just happen to work on BMWs.
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Hey William, I haven't forgotten about you but I haven't been able to get in touch with him looks like he's outta town. Any progress on the X?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Na... Nothing major the past couple days... I did hook up the original Mechatronic to the connector and copied all the module settings in NCS Expert... I think I will do the same with the new Mechatronics connected up to see if there are any differences... Time consuming and such, but it is a "safe" way for me to verify if and what is changing... Heck, it is getting colder out... I might be able to put the original back in and have it work just fine until it starts to heat up outside next spring... I may consider that as well in the near future if all else fails... I would love to know if there is a way to "load" the entire car with the "factory settings" in one swift wave of my magic wand... Is that what "Process car" does? But, that is where I am right now... Work has gotten the way of progress... Stupid job!! So, no rush... Take your time and I really appreciate all the help!! Cheers!! |
Cool cool sounds good, hopefully it's all sorted out soon. I'll update you as soon as I hear something from him. And I picked up and 06 4.4 this weekend of my own. The whole dash was lit up like a Christmas tree service engine, abs trifecta, tire pressure, everything except for he has light half a tank lol. Cleared everything and now I just have to sort out the 2 axle air suspension issue and possibly a smoke issue, smoke from only right side… anyways, I'll start a journal or something to document everything when I get home today with pics and all.
Cheers man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
What if you swap the old mechatronics into the new transmission.?
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Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I hooked up the original EGS unit and pulled all the "coding info" from every module... I saved the readings from each module to compare with the readings from the module with the NEWer EGS unit... After reading every module with the newer EGS module, there were NO differences... NONE!!! This issue is not a coding issue at all!! I have to get into the EGS module and program it directly or thru the ECM using different software than I have now... So, I guess I will be on the lookout for a good used ICOM set-up... That is it for now... Cheers all!!! |
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If you get in touch with your friend, do me a favor and find out what software and hardware set-up he is using... I think I have hit the limits of the WinKFP and NCS Expert software in trying to code the EGS in the transmission... What I have isn't talking to the module thru the OBD port... Thanks much!! Cheers!! |
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Gotcha gotcha, nice work by the way, that's some stuff I would never attempt let alone comprehend lol. Nice job keep it up. Will update you as soon as he's back, he left the country in a vacation. Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Good day all!!
So, I was doing some research and found out that it is recommended that the engine and trans temp hover around the 100 deg Celsius range... Trans temp a little cooler, but anyway... So, I figured I would try something with the weather getting colder... I put the original EGS unit back in the trans... I went to the TSO concert here in Greenville last night, so I didn't get to fill the trans right away... I did that today, albeit a little on the low side cause I didn't have my temp teller hooked up... I'll top it off the half quart or less tomorrow... So, I had it running and got it up to temp tonight, (I'm guessing as it was running for a good while...) It never faulted out... I'm going to top off the fluid to specs and keep the computer in the vehicle while I bring it up to it's operating temp tomorrow... If it doesn't fault out due to the fluid temp staying below 110 deg C, I'm putting an additional trans cooler on it ASAP!! If this works, I will have a spare trans for it!! Maybe I should go thru the spare, just to be ready in the event the original one fails... Oh my, would it ever be so amazing to get to use the X5!! Well, I'll keep everyone posted!! Wish me luck!!! Cheers all!! |
Well, that didn't work... It did NOT fault out for, lets guesstimate, 30 minutes last night... It was +26 deg F last night during the test... moved thru all gears repeatedly!!
I topped it off with fluid with no issues... Got the trans temp of around 58 deg C and outside temp of about +38 and tried the shifter... On the very first time moving into drive it faulted... So, there is really no rhyme or reason with it's issue... Looks like I am back to working with my non-sport version replacement... I'll keep yous advised... Cheers for now!! |
Good day everyone!!
Well, it has been some time since I have been on here with any real updates... I made some progress today and I wanted to pass this on... I had been looking for a viable ICOM module, either an ICOM A, ICOM A2, or an ICOM A3... I found a set on ebay that had the MOST module and all the cables... I tried to win the ebay auction, but didn't want it more than the one who won... I finally found an original ICOM A with the swivel part, new from Rheingold for about the same as I was going to spend on the other set... I received that in the mail yesterday... I hooked it all up, did some programming with the settings and went through the steps to program the new EGS I got from the 2006 transmission (that ended up being from a sport model, so technically it should have worked right away)... I pulled the info from the existing EGS into ISTA/P and paused the process... I got the replacement EGS from the workbench and simply plugged it in to the connector, sitting on a box under the X... I finished the process and packed up for the night... I installed the replacement EGS today... It worked as it should; having the "S" for sport mode and "M" with the gears (which it didn't have two days ago)... Alas, I am still not done with this crazy possessed machine!! Now, I am getting hard shifts and a big flare between third and fourth... It is so bad that it faults the transmission out unless I maintain the RPM's until it catches... I did keep the 2006 valve body with the replacement EGS... I had swapped the new EGS over to my original valve body the other times I did this swap... I may need to buy another liter of Lifeguard 6 to top off the level... I will check that tomorrow before work... Maybe all the air in the systems worked it's way out and I'm just low on fluid... I may have to do another software update... I think I am going to do the entire X with the ISTA/P... I hope getting all the modules on the same page will correct this issue... I really don't want to put my original valve body back in and redo the fill procedure... Well, if this doesn't work, I'm going to pull the trans and put in a 6-speed!! This crazy thing has just been sitting for far too long without any road time!!! Cheers for now!!! |
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Mine fails when I code the whole car....it just won't allow full coding. I can code/update module individually....no issue there. I've got a legit copy of ISTA-D/P....could be some software in my pc corrupting the process.:confused: |
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I purchased a dedicated laptop for this purpose... BMW software is the only thing on my BMW program computer... So far it seems to be holding up to the demand... I saw some "kits" on ebay that had all the ICOM's, cables, and either a hard drive or whole Dell laptop... Figured I could piece it together like they did, but cheaper... My was a little over $400 total... The cheapest "kit" I found was $575... The others were about $795... Thanks!! Cheers!! |
Good day all!!
Well, I am not going to jinx myself here, but I programmed the EGS again via my ICOM and ISTA/P... The last time I did it, I did two things different... I only hooked up the durango and two jumper cables... This time I did the durango and my 4.6is with three sets of jumper cables... The other change is the long cable that came with the ICOM... I had it in play last time... This time I hooked the ICOM directly to the OBD port... A little difficult, but at least it won't fall out while programming... The voltage readings fluctuated maybe .2 volts the entire time... 13.56V (+/- 0.12v)... And I got a status that indicated the module was actually being programmed... I also went into manual selection... I let the software determine the plan of action last time... Additionally, I coded the entire vehicle after the EGS program and coding had completed... Oddly, I got an error on my DSC... Something about it not having the correct parameters for the international something or other... So, after the complete vehicle was done, I went back in and programmed and coded the DSC... that worked too... Actually took longer to program the DSC than it did the EGS at over 20 minutes... So, I didn't take it out yet... I'm actually nervous... But I did start it... Throttle response was night and day different!! I can't explain it!! WOW!!! I really really hope this programming worked!! I also checked the info using INPA... The VIN for the EGS didn't change last time... Rather odd, but figured it was a status thing and didn't have much to do with programming... Well, this time it changed... and the assembly number got updated too... My fingers are crossed!! Going for a test drive in about three minutes... Cheers all!!! |
Okay!! It did NOT go as I would have hoped... HOWEVER!! I think my new issue is the valve body or the solenoids in the valve body... While in normal DRIVE, I get bad flares between gears and if the RPM's are up, a hard shift... It's like there is too much delay with the solenoid activation... In MANUAL mode with gear selection, it is crisp and true... Very minimal delay between gears (Except going into 4th)... Nothing that would fault the trans out... I'm going to drive it a while longer to see if it "learns" how to shift... If it won't fix itself, I'll swap the original valve body back in and try it again... From my extensive research, everything I'm getting now is pointing at the valve body, not the module programming...
I'm almost there... Just gotta hang in there for a little while longer and I think I'll figure this beast out... Cheers for now!!! |
Great thread! Maybe this E53 X5 YouTube channel has some DIY and repair guides that will be helpful for you and other members:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCd0...zX7yA/featured |
^That's your YT channel. How about you do some DIY's here? Would be more helpful to members than continually pushing your YT channel. I think every 2nd or 3rd post is a link to your channel or to a video on the channel.
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Yep that is my YouTube channel, and I will continue to post links to relevant content here to continue to grow it. You may prefer photo DIY posts, I prefer to create videos. It's all good!
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Good day everyone!!
Well, I found this and figured I would add an update so I can fix the pictures later on tomorrow... I had a lot of great pictures in here that photobucket ruined... I have been putting this one (Whitney) on the back burner for some time with the other members of the family... The 4.6is (Red) is getting new arnott rear air springs tomorrow and maybe off to the tire store for some new sneakers... My newest addition (Becky) is getting all new top end gaskets due to a possible vac leak causing smoke upon long idle... Those parts are still on the way... BUT, while I was waiting on parts, I tried a full DME and EGS program, along with a total vehicle coding... Back to basics kinda attempt to get this back to functional... I started this journey 3 Mar 16... Almost two years later, I still don't have it perfect enough to let the better half use all the time... I was driving it for a while, but the slow take-offs were getting annoying... I haven't tested it yet after the reprogramming, but that will be first thing tomorrow... I've almost parted it out a couple times, but I just don't want to give up on it! I have others I can use, so it's not a thorn yet... Okay... Take care all... Hope to have the pics working again soon! Cheers for now!! |
Good day all!!
Well, Whitney is a bust still!!! The reprogram did NOT go as planned... I think I have a bad copy of the programming data for the E53... I get oddly different results every time I attempt it... Sooooooo, for now, I will direct my attentions to the other vehicles... I will continue to update this one with the picture fix... It will take me some time to get it all finished, but the engine rebuild I did for this one is worth it, so others could use the information... I would also like to report the motor is still going strong... Cheers all!! |
I just spent well over an hour reading this entire thread and am absolutely riveted. This is like reading a novel!! I feel AWFUL for the main character. Somehow this car has to get back on the road!
I know that getting one of the existing trannies to work properly has been a personal challenge, but I am curious whether this problem is actually solvable. Would, for example, a factory rebuilt Valve body or full transmission solve this problem once and for all? |
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Indeed!! The X5 is very nice and it is a shame I need to move on to other projects... All is not lost tho! The motor I rebuilt is going into another 2004-2006 when one needing motor work turns up... I have three transmissions for these year, although one isn't complete... And a couple transfer cases.... All the body panels are perfect... Interior has already been swapped into Becky... I tried everything I suspected to be the cause... I think I had a bad DME and the reprogram didn't take or made things worse... I got another DME for it, but those are too difficult to blank out for initial programming again and I didn't feel like pulling the EWS, keys, locks, ignition, and DME from a parts X5 to see if that would fix it... It is technically still complete... It has Becky's interior in it... I haven't TOTALLY given up on it yet, but it is very very much on the back burner until lots of things on my to-do list clear up... Cheers!!!! |
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