CV Axle Replacement - What Else?
 

There are a lot of good threads out there on how to do this. Will attempt in the next couple of weeks as I gather parts.

Couple questions.

1. Do I need to buy new axle nuts, or do the new CV axles come with them?
2. What other parts (Seals, nuts, bushings) do I need or should replace when I'm down there? I was thinking maybe replace the control arm bushings...

Differential seals since you are yanking the axles out of the diff.

Depends on the brand. Factory ones don't include the extras. Get dealer replacement snap rings (c-shaped ring that holds the axle in the diff) - the aftermarket ones don't seem to seat well for me.

Reboot if you can. If you really do need to replace, I prefer GKN axles. Original manufacturers quality but about half the BMW price.

Differential seals and OE "C-Shaped" Snap Rings - Got it! Thanks!
Normally like to go with the OEM route, but being that my car is 11 years old with 170k miles, it doesn't make sense to spend even half the cost of original axles. I may go with EMPI, as I hear they are better than Cardone. Thanks for your suggestions.

Why are you replacing the entire axle? Most of the axle are either rebuilt or made in China.

You can reboot and install a new outer CV joint for a lot less and if you don't yank the axle off the diff you don't need to replace the seal.

https://www.amazon.com/FEBEST-1910-X...8T53TC7Q5Y537G

I guess I figured I would be better off with a new axle since my boots have been torn for almost two years now! Repairing the boot is not an option as I'm hearing ticking and clunking. That link you sent is for a new joint and boot, correct? I guess if I changed the actual CV joints and not just the boot I would be okay. Would you say the labor to replace the joint and boot is easier than the axle itself? I thought I would have to take the axle out just to do that repair. I do like that this route costs less...

Thanks!

Unless you are a DIYer bringing it in will cost you some bucks no matter if you replace the axle or just the joint and boot.

Replacing the CV joint is fairly easy if you have the right tool to take the CV joint off the axle.

Here's a link to see the tool in action.

Tool is available on eBay or Amazon I believe for under 60 bucks.

Once the joint is off you can just replace the torn boot.

I was planning on DIY for the axle. So can you clarify if I have to remove the axle to replace the joint and reboot? I didn't see the link. There isn't a DIY to replace the joints is there? I've seen axle replacement and rebooting DIY's but not actual joint replacement.

Sorry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOh43Wkmqnc

Thanks! I may do this instead of replacing the axle! I found this DIY, which seems pretty straight forward. Of course with the puller tool it will be even easier. Upallnight, can you confirm if this DIY covers everything I need to do to replace joint and boot?

BMW X5 CV Joint replacement, CV gaiter DIY.

Thanks for the link OP. I think I am going to do this way for my two cars. After reading so many DIY's on this and watching videos, after looking through this link I finally get it.

I may be overthinking this, but I wonder what people use to clean up the grease out of that joint. Does it have to be some lint free towel?

No problem. If it wasn't for Upallnight, I would have replaced the axle and spent a lot more money. I would definitely get the CV joint puller. Only $26 on eBay! I'll be ordering these parts soon and post on the whole experience. The CV joint and boot kit is only $48. So you can replace both outer CV joints for $120ish (if you get the tool)!

I already have a 12 point 36 mm socket that I got when replacing the oil filter during oil changes. Recommend getting PB Blaster ($3.76 add on item on amazon) and a drift punch set (preferably brass) as well as a 32 or 48 Oz Dead blow hammer. I also don't have a cheater bar so I'm getting a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar. Besides that just make sure you have rags and I think thats all you will need.

Propshaft Seperator Splitter Remover Universal CV Joint Puller | eBay

I would definitely use a lint free towel on the joints and not shop rags! I didn't think of that because I'll be replacing the joints altogether.

I'm afraid I'll be looking to do this as well, maybe this weekend (July 4). I had a mech tell me I need tension arms, and cv axles. I don't want to fool with bushings only on the tension arms. I notice in the instructions you have to take the tension arm out of the way - can I do cv/tension at the same time to save a little time? Also - how do I know if I can do boot only, as opposed to whole axle?

The only thing I know for sure is the front end has been clunking for awhile. I was having something else done, when the guy told me I needed tension arms and cv axles replaced.

thanks much

What I gather, Febest is a European distributor of OEM-like parts. Who supplies Febest with parts such as CV and boots? I could not get information from their website.

Be careful with Febest. Not very transparent arrangement. "German quality" is not the same as "made in Germany". And pretty small company. People online report parts made in China. They have an address in Florida. The business registration available says the business started in 2011 and shows them as having 1 to 4 employees.

Febest Panamerica, LLC

Seems like Febest have set up in a few countries around the world....

Febest Auto Parts - OEM Quality Parts for all Makes and Models

I have purchased items from them (Febest Aust. - via their NZ web storefront) for VW Golfs - minor items like idlers and sway bar links etc. So far everything I've gotten seems pretty good, quality-wise. Good service too.

Clunking could be from the lower ball joints that connects the tension arms / thrust arms to the uprights. You will need a good ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm. You will need to pop the ball joint for the tie rod out of the upright in order to use the ball joint separator to pop the ball joint out of the tension arm.

I just replaced both thrust arms (what you call the tension) on my X last week. The passenger side only took me 30 minutes. The driver side took a little longer because the bolt that connects the thrust arm to the sub -frame is too long to remove unless you remove a plastic duct that is in the way.

The lower ball joint requires a female torx socket to remove. Don't use a regular socket it or you mess up the torx head.

If you notice that the boot is torn and the cv joint isn't making any noise when you turn the steering wheel, you can probably get by with just a boot. If the joint is making a clicking noise you must replace the cv joint or the entire axle.

Don't have all these special tools, then take it in and let a mechanic fix it.

+1. Just got my CV joint/boot kit and it clearly says Made in China on the top of the box. Still waiting on my CV joint removal tool before I do the swap. I'm hoping these new joints are better than the ones that come on the aftermarket CV axles that are also made in China.

How does the joint look? The one reviewer on Amazon stated that the joint appears to be high quality and he would use them again for all his BMW.

Not everything Made in China is junk, look at all the eye phones that are made there. The people that drank from the Apple Cider can't get enough of Apple products that are made in China.

I purchased an ac relay for my PORSCHE and the box had the PORSCHE logo, but the relay, a BOSCH relay said Made in China.

Thanks for this info. I may be having this issue too along with the CV joints. I get noise as I'm turning right (you can hear it well when you're going on an exit ramp). I wouldn't say its a clicking/ticking noise or a clunk. Somewhere in between maybe? It's definitely audible though. I will still replace the CV joint though as I had a mechanic tell me the boots were torn. That was in December 2014.

I do get a clunk every now and then when I turn the wheel for the first time I drive that day, it goes away for the rest of the drive until the next time I drive it. So I may have to look into the thrust arms / ball joints while I'm down there. Upallnight, can you clarify on how I can diagnose if they are bad just by looking at them?

It looks pretty solid and its got some weight to it. Haven't looked in it too much. I bet you're right though, and with the review on Amazon, I'm feeling pretty optimistic about it.

A noise that comes on when you are making a turn can be a wheel bearing that is going bad. If you are making a right turn, then it can be a wheel bearing on one of the left wheel.

The noise when you first turn the wheel could indicates that the sway bar link is worn.

When you pop the tension arm off the ball joint, you can see/feel if there's play in the ball joint. There should be no play at all, Even the slightest amount of play will indicate that you have a bad ball joint.

Thanks much. I have some tools, will need some others. With 3 BMW's approaching 100k miles (well, this one at 185k), I have a feeling I'll need the tools again.


thanks again.

I'll look into the wheel bearing sometime next week. Found TSB: SI B 31 01 05.

I got the car on jack stands to try to get an idea on what's going on. Yeah the CV Boots are definitely torn. Will replace that with the joints next week.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrdxfgydl.jpg

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6j0abyrn.jpg

As far as the sway bar links go, it seems like an easy fix, however, I don't want to throw money at the car if it doesn't need to be fixed. How can you tell if the sway bar link is bad? I tried checking for movement and it seemed very stiff. To check if the lower control arm (tension strut) bushing is bad, I checked for back and forth movement of the wheel. This does not look good, the wheel is wobbling more than I think it should (see video below). Maybe the lug bolts are not torqued to spec? I also tried to feel for movement on the lower control arm and as you will see in the video, I can get it slighly budge, but by no means is it loose.. Also is that what the bushing should look like at the end of the video?


https://youtu.be/vumcGe5EZnc

https://youtu.be/sa5DL4eh5RI

I have no problem replacing the sway bar links and CV joint/boot. Just hope I don't need to replace control arms (bushings) or ball joints... Just had an alignment done not too long ago. Also I'm at 170k now and about 5 months ago, Classic BMW in Cleveland did a complimentary vehicle inspection and mentioned the CV boots. I told them the whole front end probably needs work due to age and mileage and they said everything looks pretty stiff...

EDIT: Oh and forgot to mention I do get the steering wheel shake under braking (for a long time now).. Really hope its sway bar links and not thrust arms, tension arms, or ball joints.

Most of the time, that shaking under braking is either the thrust arm bushing is shot or the rotors are worn to the point that the thickness is no longer within spec and the heat generate under braking is warping the rotors.

Tension Strut, Wishbone, Lower Control Arm, Upper Control Arm, Thrust Arm?
 

The terminology is killing me.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as?

This will clarify a lot!

From the link above, Item 6 (31126769717, 31126769718) are the tension struts. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Thrust arm, camber arm.

From the link above, Item 10 (31126760275, 31126760276) are the wishbones. What are the other names from the title of this post are these also known as? Control arm

Ahh it all makes sense now! Now when I'm looking at parts I understand which component goes where. I found a easy DIY on the wishbone / lower rear control arm. However, it looks like I may need to replace the tension strut instead. I guess if the bushings are shot it would make sense to replace that while I do the CV joint. Might as well do the sway bar links while I'm down there.

FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty
 

FYI, the Meyle HD Thrust Arms are on clearance at FCP. Only $77 each with Meyle HD Bushings. Roughly $200 with two of those thrust arms and two Meyle Ball Joints. Not bad for a complete Thrust Arm replacement for both sides...

EDIT: So just read about this lifetime warranty that FCP Euro offers, that even includes wear items! I've heard people saying bushings will last about 50k and to not waste money on aftermarket ones. Shit if FCP will replace these along with the balljoints when they go bad, then I will definitely buy from them! This seems too good to be true.

question for those that have done this before: I went by the dealer today and picked up the differential shaft seals. In the box, there was a seal, and a little c-clip. The clip looks to me like it's the clip that goes on the end of the axle. There is not a clip on the seal, correct?

Has anyone else bought this seal from the dealer and found that in the box?

I actually asked if they had the clips, based on comments to use the OEM clips, but they did not carry them. I am thinking they were in that box with the seal though.'

Thanks much.

That's what I recall. No clip for the seal. Often has a plastic protective cover that gets tossed. The included clip is for the axle.

Thanks David - that's what it looked like, but thought I'd ask before it's all apart. One last question - the new 36mm 12points that came with the axles - did you "notch" those like the one you took off?

Don't know exactly what you mean by notching the new nuts. After they have been tightened down and torqued to spec, you lock them to the axle by hammering the lip into the two notches that already exist on the axle. It's steel - they take a swift whack with a metal punch and a good size hammer.

I think what you described is what he has to do. You need to notch the nut so that the nut doesn't back off the spindle. You can do the belt and suspender by putting some blue Loctite on the spindle thread.

that was what I meant. punching them back into that notch.

Update - Replaced the CV joints with the Febest CV joint and boot kit. The procedure was very simple and took me about 45 minutes or so per side once I got the axle nut off.

I followed the procedure in the link below:
BMW X5 CV Joint replacement, CV gaiter DIY.

The quality of the parts is good. Although I have never replaced them before so I cannot compare with OEM or GKM. The only thing I would recommend if you get the Febest kit is to get separate band it style clamps or crimp clamps. The band it clamps were very thin and snapped as I tightened them with the band it winding tool. The local auto part store had similar band it clamps but they were more durable and not as malleable as the originals. Other than that so far no problems at all.

The noises I was getting when I would take an exit ramp or when I would turn the wheel as soon as I backed out of the driveway are now completely gone! I thought for a minute that my wheel bearings were shot, but I cannot hear any noises while I drive now. I also replaced the thrust arms (Meyle HD), thrust arm ball joints (Lemforder), and sway bar end links (Meyle HD). Before replacing all of these components, if I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 it would wobble left to right. Now they are very stiff at at all positions. A lot of people will say that if the wheel wobbles at 9 and 3 then you have shot wheel bearings - well not so much for me.

Even with the thrust arms and ball joints replaced, I still get the steering wheel shake under braking ( > 65 mph). Maybe its the rotors, they were replaced about 4 years ago and 40,000 miles ago. Could the steering wheel shake be caused by lower control arms (wishbones)?