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E53 4.8is rear camber wear
What are the options for rear end camber adjustment? We're changing rears every 15-20,000kms due to inner tyre wear from camber & still seeing sound 60% left on the rest of the tyre.
I'm about to switch from the stock 20" rims to Alpina 21" with even wider rear footprint & throw in some lowering links. I can imagine this is only going to make the uneven wear even more profound if not corrected. |
Sounds like you need new control arm bushings.
Some people also make adjustable rear control arms to adjust camber. |
You need to check for any worn suspension parts, especially the inner bushings.
If there is nothing obviously broken, try replacing the 2 upper control arms of the rear suspension. On both the 3.0 and 4.6 I had excess rear negative camber that could not be adjusted into spec on the alignment rack. Replacing the two top links we were able to get it back to spec. The rubber bushings on the old arms were deflected inwards noticeably in both cases, resulting in extra negative camber. |
Even with good bushings, the factory alignment spec would always make the inner worn out faster due to too much toe-in setting. I have the setting as close to 0.00 as possible and happy ever since with rear tires wear.
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:iagree: with tmv - set mine to zero toe in rear and regardless of camber my tires wear evenly for 3+ years now
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:iagree:
+2 for zero toe in on the rears. Inner tire wear is an indication of excessive camber (negative> top of tire leaning in towards the body). As mentioned, replace the upper arms as they wear out faster than the ball joints. The upper control arms wear out and allow the tire to deflect towards more and more negative camber |
Zero out rear toe, and camber as close to zero, depending on mileage change out the rear arms, balljoints etc,
One more option is get directional tires not asymmetrical, when inner edge is worn, get them remounted flipped from one side to other, now both worn edges will be on the outside where it does not matter as much. I got 35k out of my last set doing that and am very lowered, didnt change anything in rear yet and my camber was brought in as close as could be but its still about -2.7 each side (changing my arms and balljoints will probably tighten it up a bit more) |
+3 Replace those control arms and check you ball joints. With the suspension unloaded, and the airbag deflated grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and try to push and pull to find movement. You can then do the same process on the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. There shouldn't be any. If there is, trace it back to the faulty suspension component.
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I had the same issue with rear inner tire wear, I replaced #2, 3, 4 & 11 (#6 wasn't needed), which ENTIRELY solve the problem. You'll need a special tool (easy to buy on line) to replace #2.
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