Just screwed up the radio ... thoughts?
 

NEW INFORMATION: update at 1300 Pacific Time. Stereo sound works and so do the steering wheel controls. It seems that there is something wrong at the radio connection (white). All else runs through the CD and works fine.

Can I use a multimeter probe to test the connector and, if so, what test(s) should I be doing?



Original Post

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Attempting to install a bluetooth/aux box to the stereo.

I have the Business CD unit (radio with "computer") and a single CD player on top (no changer). Model Year is 2003 and the stereo is original.

I removed the radio and disconnected the white plug on the side. I then removed the CD player and disconnected a large block connector and a smaller round connector (I will guess for the antenna).

I removed the glove box to gain access for extra wire installation.

Installed bluetooth/aux unit which consists of an addition/extension of the block connector wiring with a split to the bluetooth/aux box and reinstalled all else though the glove box is still loose.

The CD player seems to have power but the radio does not. I removed the bluetooth/aux wiring with no change in status (i.e. CD has power the radio does not).

Have I done something obviously wrong ... perhaps removing the white plug to the radio was dumb?

Any thoughts/advice appreciated.

The "radio" isn't a audio at all. It's called a multifunctional display (MID) and is basically a remote unit with a display. The white plug is a data and power connection only - no audio signals at all.

Sounds like either the white plug isn't pluged in properly (it has a rotating cam lock deal that you need to engage correctly first or it won't pull the plug home properly) or the there no power to the MID (broken wire or something?).

The MID can be put into a couple of different setup or diagnostic modes to test it but it nes to be powered up to do this. Does it light up at all?

@wpoll - Much thanks!

Your description of the MID completely fits our experience.

We have reattached the connector many times. It works just like the door button connectors and am very familiar with those. My comment though is when I removed the MID connector it was more difficult/tight than I expected after unlocking the cam lock.

Does the MID light up at all = NO ... but on the several attempts at reconnection (and some wire jiggling) we saw various items like a little red light below the power button (which is suspect is nighttime illumination) come on, the info display lit briefly for a few seconds during a third or fourth reconnection then died. A light may have lit for a fraction of a second around the audio button on the right but I wouldn't swear to it.

I strongly suspect a bad wire. I am fearful though of probing the connector in ignorance and making things worse but not worried if I would find a test procedure.

Do you know if the connector can be disassembled or replaced?

Very odd symptoms...

The MID connector (X10119) has a number of connections you can test with a meter (on the wiring loom side): -

X10119 Pin #1 should be ground or chassis - use a continuity test to a ground point

X10119 Pin #2 has +12v from Fuse F75 (trunk) - this may be constant power.

X10119 Pin #8 has a connection to the K3 relay in the trunk - +12v (unless the starter is engaged) from Fuse 73 (trunk).

X10119 Pin #3 has the lighting signal from the LCM

That's all you can check with a simple meter. X10119 Pin #4 is the data bus (i-bus).

If you have the correct voltage etc. on the connector then it looks like the issue may be the MID itself.

HTH... :p:

Oh yeah, this might help too! :rolleyes:

X10119 - MID (A103) connector

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psfttazhe5.png

wpoll ... Much thanks. The car has left for the gym but when it returns I will start some tests.

I have some test results to report, another/additional symptom and a possible red herring.

Test results:
Checked fuses 73 and 75. Both passed the continuity check and were the correct 'size'.

At the MID connector: Ground was good at the connector

X10119 Pin #2 has +12v from Fuse F75 (trunk) - this may be constant power. Results = 12.17 volts

X10119 Pin #8 has a connection to the K3 relay in the trunk - +12v (unless the starter is engaged) from Fuse 73 (trunk). Result = 12.17 volts

X10119 Pin #3 has the lighting signal from the LCM RESULT = 0.94 Volts IS THIS CORRECT?

Additional "symptom" = the radio, or CD player for that matter, will play music for only about 1 minute then silence. Ignition to off than back to 1 and another minute of sound. I find this odd but was consistent over 4 tries.

Red Herring? = I noticed a small 'panel' on the rear hatch that appears to allow access to hatch wiring. It was open. I popped it back into place. I believe this has nothing to do with the radio woes but thought I would mention.

Any thoughts?

Something is definitely wrong. The MID that shows the station is not the radio, but the display. The real radio hardware is in the trunk. If the CD is also going off, could be your power amp that is the problem and not the radio.

The radio isn't always in the trunk - mine is built into the Professional CD in the dash. My trunk floor space has no audio equipment in it at all, and only the CD-changer in the left side compartment.

squeasel, the 0.94v on pin #3 is possibly correct - the LCM may use PWM to dim the dash lights etc. and so the reading you get on a DC volt-meter might be odd looking.

One thought I had - can you check the socket on the MID that the X10119 plug pushes into and verify if all the contacts (pins) are the same height? I've seen these sort of connectors fault when they don't quite line up correctly when being inserted and the shell pushes the pins out the back of the socket. You end up with one or more pins sitting lower in the socket and not making contact with the contacts in the plug. :rolleyes:

It sounds as if there is no (or intermittent) power getting to the MID, hence the question about the pins.

Thanks wpoll and upallnight.

The display connector pins seems level and evenly spaced. I am concerned about the connection between the pins and the connector though because when we wiggle the connector we can occasionally see the TEL lights go on (FWIW I have never seen them go on in the past ... no telephone) and once in a great while the display will come on very briefly. I was thinking of removing the display's metal backing to examine the pins from the inside. Is this a stupid idea?

Also note that I have the display, the CD Player and Speakers with no additional amplifiers, changers etc. None of this has been modified from factory unless there was some warranty work done early on.